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How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears

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Ordered all components to build one of these but in the mean time I'm still working on an rgb mod for the pal console (involves dumping the 82s123 color prom etc) so I don't want to introduce too many variables during this process. As soon as I have that figured out the next step will be a universal psu!

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Bit of a setback, but the main ac/dc switcher is not in stock anywhere... mouser will update me as soon as they hear from the manufacturer. If it takes too long for them to deliver it might be worth switching to a component that has better availability. This will require a redesign though. I'll wait and see.

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On 4/8/2021 at 7:16 AM, Unstablewarpfield said:

Intellivision-uni-PSU-top.png

 

The +5 and GND at the top right are reversed on your picture here than they are on actual Intellivisions. At least the NTSC ones have those in reverse order. In fact, all the ones I've worked on don't even have a wire for the GND attached, just a single wire off that connector for the +5.

 

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The +5 and GND at the top right are reversed on your picture here than they are on actual Intellivisions. At least the NTSC ones have those in reverse order. In fact, all the ones I've worked on don't even have a wire for the GND attached, just a single wire off that connector for the +5.
 
I know, but thanks for pointing it out. This is an older version of the psu that I put together in a hurry. Be assured that on the final version everything is where it is supposed to be ;-)

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19 minutes ago, Unstablewarpfield said:

I know, but thanks for pointing it out. This is an older version of the psu that I put together in a hurry. Be assured that on the final version everything is where it is supposed to be ;-)

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No worries. Was just making sure it wasn't a purposeful design choice? It wouldn't matter honestly as long as whoever is putting it back together, new which lead had the +5 on it. If you connected it wrong, it wouldn't do anything anyway and it isn't like there isn't room for that connector to be plugged in either way.

 

I like that buss fuse in the design! Very nice. Are you going to design it so that the AC cord that is in these now isn't needed and a more normal figure 8 plug is installed or something similar? I'm assuming this is to do away with the transformer setup that resides in them currently? Also are you leaving the output sipp jack the same as the original? If so that would be good to make sure the pin pitch remains the same so alternate connectors can be used. I personally replaced the ribbon cable out on mine and use a JST connector on it with separate wires then soldered to the mainboard now.

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No worries. Was just making sure it wasn't a purposeful design choice? It wouldn't matter honestly as long as whoever is putting it back together, new which lead had the +5 on it. If you connected it wrong, it wouldn't do anything anyway and it isn't like there isn't room for that connector to be plugged in either way.
 
I like that buss fuse in the design! Very nice. Are you going to design it so that the AC cord that is in these now isn't needed and a more normal figure 8 plug is installed or something similar? I'm assuming this is to do away with the transformer setup that resides in them currently? Also are you leaving the output sipp jack the same as the original? If so that would be good to make sure the pin pitch remains the same so alternate connectors can be used. I personally replaced the ribbon cable out on mine and use a JST connector on it with separate wires then soldered to the mainboard now.


The psu will have a jst connector in place of the ribbon cable. That thing comes apart just by looking at. I did thesame thing as you did... rip it out and solder jst connectors in. One could however desolder the original ribbon cable connector and use that on the replacement psu if desired.

I repurposed the original header connectors, but in the final design I might use some block terminals.

This psu works indeed without the transformer, so it should be possible to get rid of that. I am working on a pal unit, and (at least mine) came stock with a figure 8 ac connector. I did not realise the ac cords on ntsc machine were hardwired?

Anyways... I'll have to wait for that ac/dc converter to arrive. Until then I can't really work on this unfortunately. As soon as I have updates I'll post them here :-)

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Boards came in today. At least thats something. As you can see this intellivision has a bit more coming to it besides a new psu ;-)

Things to do for the psu are:

- Add a component list with values on the pcb.
- Add a screw terminal voor AC in. It seemed like a good idea to repurpose the stock connector. Also... see how I messed up the number of connections on the AC-in in this board. It's supposed to be 5 pins lol. No idea why I thought it would be worth keeping because it is not, but for testing this is going to be fine. That is... if ever the dac25-16 will be manufactured. No date yet according to mouser.

 

Oh well... at least the dimensions are correct 😛

 

 

 

8caf02a13fadf36134002ec5c2fdcf6a.jpg

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Edited by Unstablewarpfield
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It wouldn't hurt to add a bit more overall to the U shaped cutout on the bottom for the controller tray post. I've seen some variants in that and warping over time that can make that be a pain sometimes when trying to swap over power boards. So In this case making that opening larger than needed by even a full 1mm would be better since it doesn't need to be tight there.

 

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Today I soldered up the circuitry for the -2.1V line. Not the best job in the world but I was just curious if I got it right. Connected it to a usb breadboard power supply and it delivers a nice -2.15V. I still want to scope it out though. No news on the ac/dc converter. 1778eda0bd556c84e1b15d9452fb728f.jpg

 

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Also scoped out the -2.1V which gives me switching noise of about 20 mVpp. I don't know how tolerant the Intellivision is but I will implement some additional noise filtering for the AC/DC power module (since that feeds the whole thing) and the switching regulators to get things as smooth as possible.

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Latest update from Mouser... the ac/dc converter will be in stock July 26. I guess beginning of August I could start testing/tweaking :-)

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Well... It is the beginning of August and still no dice on the power converter. It is in stock now, but there are some other components in my order that will be in stock next week so assume Mouser is holding off their shipment until all backordered items are in. Hopefully I'll receive the DAC25-16 this month and I can start testing and improving. 

 

I re-arranged some components and added a screw terminal for the AC input. Still in doubt whether to go with the pain of switching noise from those 5V and 12V regulators (I don't like it and I'd like to filter this out as much as I can. Needs circuitry added to this pcb though), or with the added heat from some LDO regulators. Anyways... I'm still on this. Haven't forgotten about it 🙂

Intellivision-uni-PSU.png

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FWIW, I actually have those exact Traco DC-DC switchers installed in my main SVA. They by far get warmer than I've ever felt these get before when I've used them but I have had them in place now for well over 2 years. I haven't noticed any visual or audio issues using these but maybe when used on a stock PSU board they behave better? But I would doubt it.

 

These Traco's feature built in filtering already so you shouldn't really need to do much. At most I would think adding in a 220µf cap of sufficient voltage off the inputs to ground might be enough on each one? Maybe just whack some onto pin 1 and pin 2 of each and scope it to see if that helps? If so, it would be easy enough to add them into your circuit without much modification.

 

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After a broken transformer on this Inty 1591, I created a new power & Solarfox avmod pcb.

The Laptop psu and DC converter replacement route works without issue.

Replaced the 2k trimmer near rf modulator with 2.2k and replaced both trimmers on the video board.

The composite is now bright and rather excellent.

Converters set to 5v, 12v and adjustable -2.4 which under load drops to -2.12

- Converter swapped VO and Ground for neg voltage.

Minimal ripple.

 

19v = unregulated and feeds 12v

12v feeds 5v

5v feeds -2.1

2.1 feeds 5v needed as unregulated 5v tapped from V-In

 

So it's not too much of an issue if you cannot get a transformer & with the Laptop psu being driven via native mains, rather international.

 

 

 

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Any progress in the past few months? I want to do this to four different Intellivisions. 
Not really, but no worries... Christmas holidays are coming and I will be back at it again then. I have not forgotten it and to be honost I really need to close down this project.
It will require a new batch of pcb's since the datasheet of the ac/dc converter did not match up with real world dimensions and the holes I created are off because of that. I hate it when that happens. What good is a data sheet if dimensions are off by 2mm...


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1 minute ago, Unstablewarpfield said:

Not really, but no worries... Christmas holidays are coming and I will be back at it again then. I have not forgotten it and to be honost I really need to close down this project.
It will require a new batch of pcb's since the datasheet of the ac/dc converter did not match up with real world dimensions and the holes I created are off because of that. I hate it when that happens. What good is a data sheet if dimensions are off by 2mm...


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I understand. I started a project for a full replacement 2600 board earlier this year and have hit numerous roadblocks getting it done. Between real life work and a crashed, unrecoverable, hardrive that had all my previous work, it really is difficult to get things done.

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I understand. I started a project for a full replacement 2600 board earlier this year and have hit numerous roadblocks getting it done. Between real life work and a crashed, unrecoverable, hardrive that had all my previous work, it really is difficult to get things done.
Exactely this. I've been remodeling a room on and off for the past half which is a huge timesink. (Doing all the furniture myself which takes loads of time).

Every time I want to get back to electronics something else comes up. On the horizon are a new kitchen and an expansion of my tool shed...

That's why I decided to dedicate at least one out of two holiday weeks on electronics again. Gotta get it done ;-)


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Just as an FYI... I was able to work on this a bit more over the holidays. I got rid of the 2 switching regulators and swapped those out for linear ones. With the traco's I just didn't like the switching noise I had. It was all over the place. The DAC25-16 has some on it's own, but those tracopowers generate extra noise both at different frequencies it seems. So I thought to get rid of them and use 2 SMD regulators. I tweaked some other things (especially the wrong footprint of the DAC25-16) and am awaiting boards now for a prototype. Will keep you all posted 🙂

Edited by Unstablewarpfield
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Pcb's arrived. The dac25-16 fits now. I am waiting for voltage regulators from the far east now to complete a test board.

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If you want someone to beta test, let me know. I've got three different intellivisions (2609, Sears, & INTV 3) all torn apart at the moment. Shoot me the gerbers and BOM and I'll run them through OSHPark.

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On 1/16/2022 at 1:38 AM, Unstablewarpfield said:

Pcb's arrived. The dac25-16 fits now. I am waiting for voltage regulators from the far east now to complete a test board.

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Hi, Any update on this project?

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No updates yet. I shifted my focus towards a mini fpga based rgb prototype first. As soon as I have that working I should be able to finish this quickly. Just don't want to be fighting two battles at once ;-)

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