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Aluminum trim bent on 1050

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I got a 1050 that has the Aluminum trim bent in a few places. Any suggestions on how to get it flat so it can be replaced and still look good? Because it has that lip on each of the long sides you just can't hammer it flat. I looked in the restoration threads and could not find anything on this topic.

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I would take the top off the 1050 and use a a blow dryer to soften the glue on the trim. Then try to get a butter knife or some other object and start to peel it off from one end. Go slow and continue tho heat as you go, if you hit a spot where the glue is still holding strong it will stop peeling and bend at that point, and could even break. You will then have a bigger problem on your hands. Cover the top of the metal strip with masking tape to protect it. Next set the strip top down on a clean wooden surface. Find an wooden object that fits in the length an width of the underside of the strip as close as possible. Get a hammer and tap on this object very lightly. It will not take much to bend it back. If you tap too hard you will leave marks on the strip that will probably look worse then it does now. If it looks good after this then you can glue it back on. I would not use crazy glue cuz if it squeezes out on to the plastic of your 1050 or gets on the top of the metal trim it will look horrible! Bryan is correct it will be almost impossible to get it perfect, and if you don't have hands like a surgeon you will likely make it worse. I did however do something very similar to what your trying to do on a thin metal strip that was on the handle of the cassette recorder to my TI 99/4a. I did not get it perfect but it does look a ton better. Good luck!

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Thanks,

I knew about the hair dryer to get the reaming glue on section soft. The wood idea is pretty good, I'll try that. A 1"x1" stick of pine should do nicely, I think. I have a rubber headed mallet I could use. What glue to use for replacing the strip?

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3M manufactures quite nice double sided tape for such purposes, it is very thin, so it won't get you into overall height issues

don't ask where to source it though, wouldn't know

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Personally I used the double sided tape that is intended for heavy duty carpet underlays

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Hmm I was gonna say to use a few very small dots of hot glue, but I now think the double sided tape idea is much better. It will hold very well and still be removable if you need to in the future. I've gotten rolls of double sided tape at the doller store before.

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I would take the top off the 1050 and use a a blow dryer to soften the glue on the trim. Then try to get a butter knife or some other object and start to peel it off from one end. Go slow and continue tho heat as you go, if you hit a spot where the glue is still holding strong it will stop peeling and bend at that point, and could even break. You will then have a bigger problem on your hands. Cover the top of the metal strip with masking tape to protect it. Next set the strip top down on a clean wooden surface. Find an wooden object that fits in the length an width of the underside of the strip as close as possible. Get a hammer and tap on this object very lightly. It will not take much to bend it back. If you tap too hard you will leave marks on the strip that will probably look worse then it does now. If it looks good after this then you can glue it back on. I would not use crazy glue cuz if it squeezes out on to the plastic of your 1050 or gets on the top of the metal trim it will look horrible! Bryan is correct it will be almost impossible to get it perfect, and if you don't have hands like a surgeon you will likely make it worse. I did however do something very similar to what your trying to do on a thin metal strip that was on the handle of the cassette recorder to my TI 99/4a. I did not get it perfect but it does look a ton better. Good luck!

 

I would do everything as you suggested except for the hammer part. instead of hammering the bent sections i would simply press on them with the wood and with a back and forth motion i would try to flatten the bent sections. This way there would be no chance of leaving hammer marks. The metal is thin enough to be reshaped this way. Just my opinion on the subject....

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I like the wood over the top idea.

I think that a wood piece under and one over (as long as it is very smooth) that I would tap with a mallet might be a good idea. Even better perhaps a cloth, or thin leather (that will not transfer color) between the metal and the top piece of wood?

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