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Can a ColecoVision 5v Memory Mod be done on a Rev.D (1983) motherboard?


kerbdog

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Hi folks,
I have a ColecoVision which I want to complete the 5v memory mod on but upon opening I've noticed that the motherboard is different to all of the guides I've found online. Its a 'Rev D' motherboard from 1983.
The motherboard is the same the one in the bottom row of this site here, No on-board RF modulator, while I can see L3 I can't find the L2 coil.

 

Any help would be great.

 

Regards,

Kerb

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To answer the title of the thread, yes it can be done though I don't know the specific mods to the board.

I'm sure someone else around here will know how.

 

If not, that board still uses 4116 RAM chips and there is a mod that will work on any system with those chips.

This page explains how to do a the general mod though the text was aimed at the Apple:

http://picmania.garcia-cuervo.net/recursos/redpicdatasheets/memorias_ram/4116_to_4164.htm

 

Doing a mod that way will work on pretty much any computer/game using 4116 RAM chips.

It won't look as clean as removing the -5v signal and replacing +12v with +5v on the motherboard itself but it will work.

Edited by JamesD
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Hi folks,

I have a ColecoVision which I want to complete the 5v memory mod on but upon opening I've noticed that the motherboard is different to all of the guides I've found online. Its a 'Rev D' motherboard from 1983.

The motherboard is the same the one in the bottom row of this site here, No on-board RF modulator, while I can see L3 I can't find the L2 coil.

 

Any help would be great.

 

Regards,

Kerb

 

Excuse my ignorance but just what is the "5v memory mod"?

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Nearly identical - the only difference is that my one doesn't have the video connector your one has on the right of the picture. All other components (like the RAM, coils) are in the same locations.

My mate is going to try the solution mentioned in post 2 here. He thinks its doable. Will let you know how he gets on.

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Just an FYI, +5v, -5v and 12v all probably have single origins into the RAM circuit making the mod much easier.

If you follow the traces back from each of those pins you should be able to cut traces or something to eliminate doing all the jumper wires. It helps to have a multitester to test for continuity.

I should have mentioned that before.

 

Cut the -5v source. That should take care of all the NC connections at once.

Cut the +12v source and jumper +5v in it's place. That should connect all the new +5 pins at once.

Since +5v already goes to the chips, just find where it comes in and jumper from there.

Much easier.

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My friend has done this mod using the technique suggested in post 2. He will put a guide together soon & post it here.

 

Hey Gaztee, great to hear that your friend has done the mod on the Rev.D board. Did he get a chance to put together the guide yet? Would be great to get so I can get my Coleco back up and working :D

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Hey Gaztee, great to hear that your friend has done the mod on the Rev.D board. Did he get a chance to put together the guide yet? Would be great to get so I can get my Coleco back up and working :D

 

i am the one who Gaztee was talking about, i was going to do a nice guide with pictures but seing as this is wanted sooner rather than later, here is an 'ultra breif' overview of the process

 

 

1 remove the two coils (these are for +12V and -5V

2 solder a cable between the two points shown in yellow

3 remove the old ram (not a terribly easy task)

4 solder in provided sockets

5 insert new ram chips

6 put console together again

post-18126-0-62941900-1379686049_thumb.jpg

post-18126-0-33274000-1379686088_thumb.jpg

post-18126-0-85979400-1379687043_thumb.jpg

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Dumb question: would this mod be beneficial, or even compatible, with the ADAM? I have the stand-alone version.

Yup, I have 2 ADAMs I plan on modding myself, I just need to order chips and sockets.

The video RAM is on the circuit board with the VDP. The top board if that makes more sense.

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Yup, I have 2 ADAMs I plan on modding myself, I just need to order chips and sockets.

The video RAM is on the circuit board with the VDP. The top board if that makes more sense.

That's the ColecoVision Delta Board (with the cartridge slot to be exact) and the bottom board is called the ADAM Logic Board (has the three Expansion Slots). Wish I had the soldering skill set like you and others to perform tasks such as this and installing an F18A VGA Board.

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That's the ColecoVision Delta Board (with the cartridge slot to be exact) and the bottom board is called the ADAM Logic Board (has the three Expansion Slots). Wish I had the soldering skill set like you and others to perform tasks such as this and installing an F18A VGA Board.

I consider desoldering to be worse than soldering.

It just takes decent tools and a little practice.

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I didn't open up an ADAM to take pics, but the schematics clearly show the +12v and -5v input for the RAM.

The schematics aren't totally readable but I believe the coils are labeled L2 and L3 just like the regular game system.

(the game board is actually the same as the regular Colecovision isn't it?)

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The CV Delta Board in the ADAM is pretty much identical to the PCB in the ColecoVision with the exception of a few things being re-arranged and modded:

 

- the controller ports are moved to the right side

- the Expansion Bus is moved to the back

- IIRC the RAM chips are moved to the front/left

- a Composite Video mod with audio is made for the DIN Video port and Composite only Video Port

- the troublesome Power Switch from the CV PCB is removed seeing as the power supply.switch is part of the Printer

 

etc., etc. So Coleco didn't actually stop manufacturing ColecoVision boards, they just stopped making ColecoVision specific PCBs and systems in the big run-up to the ADAM's release.

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  • 3 months later...

Just got around to do this work :( ended up getting a hot air rework station to remove the pins after I cut the IC legs off.

Powered it all back on again and the video is corrupted but the sound is fine which is strange. Any suggestions what the next thing to check might be?

 

Note, I've already swapped the power switch to be a double throw switch and also I've checked the power output of the PSU and its fine.

Edited by kerbdog
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