5200 off of eBay

[+SabertoothRetro]

So I took the plunge and picked up a CIB 2 port 5200 from eBay. Although the system was listed as tested and working, both controllers have issues. The first controller that I tried has keypad and directional functionality but the fire buttons do not work. The second controller has some keypad functionality but is otherwise shot. The RF display is great and the system is pretty good cosmetically. It just sucks that the only playable game right now is Pac-Man.

 

I'm debating whether or not to return the seller. Return shipping will be at my cost. What say you?

 

Thanks!

[atarian63]

what did you pay for it? I always expect the controllers to be bad.if it was a good deal then keep it and just rebuild the controllers. Probably would be a good idea even if they worked

[AtariBrian]

you can always do the dot trick or get a gold rebuild kit

[jetset]

Technically, the item was not as described, working means working. That said the controller with the firs button issue is easily fixed. Some tin foil, a dab of superglue, and a little patience will fix that and they'll likely work a LONG time. If the second one has issues with the keypad, or fire or the start/pause/reset buttons those are just as easily fixed. If the joystick itself is shot then it's probably a wasted effort trying to get it working.

I would contact the seller and work something out. See if he'll give you a partial refund. As was said it's almost a given that buying a 5200 you'll get non-working controllers but then again if the deal was sold as a working one then either by negligence or outright deception you didn't get what you paid for. In any event you shouldn't have to pay return shipping if you were sold something you didn't pay for.

[Charlie_]

The way the stock controllers are designed, like a remote control, you really can't expect them to work.

If you want to get into the 5200 part of the experience is fixing them.

Much help can be found here about controller alternatives or rebuilding the stock ones.

[Brian R.]

As long as you didn't pay a crap-ton, I'd say shrug it off and let it go - as in keep the console and resolve your controller issues yourself.

 

If the console works, looks good and puts out a good picture, why return it? The controller problem is near universal, and there are fixes. Having a console as good as you describe isn't something you should give up just because of the controllers, IMO.

[RodLightning]

The first thing I try with a non-working 5200 controller is to carefully open it up and use a pencil eraser to clean the button contacts. The frame around start-pause-reset can be popped up and off by prying it upward. Long finger nails help. The dirty contacts are on the thin membrane ribbon. The next step is removing the screws from the controller's underside to get access to the fire and keypad buttons. As mentioned by AtariBrian and jetset, you can glue thin strips of foil to the rubber pads if eraser cleaning fails to work.

 

The sticks also have sliders inside that must be properly oriented with the internal levers. If a previous owner opened one, he might have put it back together wrong. Another rule of thumb when opening a 5200 controller is to be very gentle with the ribbon like film circuit material inside as it can be torn. Fixing the controllers can indeed be a fun part of the 5200 experience.

 

If you want to avoid complicated repairs, Best Electronics sells reconditioned controllers with exchange for your old/broken controller. You can also buy parts from Best to refurbish your own if you are up to the task. http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/5200.htm

[Keatah]

Technically, the item was not as described, working means working.

 

It *IS* working, just not all the way or in the manner you expect. But it is operational. And it does play a game, as you said yourself!

 

Anything 5200 controller related = rebuild and refurb. So snap to it!

[+SabertoothRetro]

Thanks to everyone for your replies and the advice. I've decided to keep the unit.

 

Regarding the auction, the listing stated that the system was tested and worked fine. I understood that these controllers are notorious for having issues so I was only following auctions for tested units. Had it been listed "untested", "as-is" or noted a specific issue with the controllers, I likely would have passed. Ultimately the seller and I agreed on a partial refund.

 

As for the controllers, I did some research and tried the "eraser trick" on both. One controller seems restored to functionality. The other controller had the potentiometers a 12 & 6 and the membrane is sharply bent on the left so it's definitely been opened. With the potentiometers reset, it now has limited movement and a fire button on right side. I tried opening it up and cleaning it again but no joy. I suspect that the sharp bend in the membrane is preventing the left fire buttons from working. Oh we'll, no two player action or Space Dungeon for now.

 

All in I'm happy to have the 5200. I'm planning on using my partial refund to help buy a Best Electronics refurbished controller. Then I'll have two working units and a decent looking console.

 

Thanks again!

[Keatah]

Thanks to everyone for your replies and the advice. I've decided to keep the unit.

 

Regarding the auction, the listing stated that the system was tested and worked fine.

Very good! In my epay experience you can interpret that to mean several things. "Tested and working fine." By who's standards? And using what testing procedures?

 

I can pull a fast one on you by selling you an Apple II that powers on and spins the disk. To me that could mean a complete and full test. Doesn't mean the memory is 100% operational, or that it is heat sensitive and fails after 1 hr. I can say I ran a diagnostic disk. But this disk I ran might only test the monitor and graphics so to speak. The keyboard might be intermittent. Or accessing slot #7 causes a total freeze-up.

 

OTH: A 100% working machine, whatever it may be, should be interpreted as such. All functions advertised in the original instruction manual and press releases should operate correctly and within specification. Anything less is grounds for price haggling and refunds.

 

Personally, me, I consider all vintage electronics to be intermittent and flaky when it comes to switches and contacts and moving parts. Fit and finish is also something of a grey area. I also tend to like working on this material, fixing it, buffing it up, that kinda stuff.

 

Finally, there's a lot of ignorance and leeway you need to consider when working ebayers. As a whole, society ain't getting any smarter. And thems ebayerz is no ekksepshunz.

[shadow460]

It's cheaper and easier to rebuild your own controllers than to pack it all up and pay for return shipping. All you need for the rebuild is a new Rev 9 flex circuit and some foil tape. That'll run you about $10 for the circuit and whatever foil tape costs these days.

 

I'm not gonna diss on Best 'cause I've never tried their stuff, but I will say I did four rebuilds a lot cheaper than they can and they all work perfect.

[Keatah]

It's been ages and decades since I fixed a 5200 controller. But you can make all the buttons work with $2.50 parts and materials. And do it in a way where they'll be good for hundreds of thousands of presses.

[Brian R.]

Don't expect any controller you fix to keep working, and don't expect a rebuilt controller you buy to keep working.

 

Use them, they break. Don't use them, they break. There's no way around it.

 

If you want to use the console long-term, I'd suggest looking into a controller alternative, such as a Wico, the basics being a controller and the Y cable. Then all you need the stock controller for, at minimum, is to start a game.

[+grips03]

might also want to add s-video as its awesome!

[bohoki]

well if it plays pacman it works the controllers have the typical issues i wouldn't be a hoser about that

[Seethransom]

Congrats on your 5200! I'm happy you worked things out, and you are keeping it. I had this console as a kid, and despite its flaws, it remains a favorite of mine.

 

Bohoki may have something you'd like, you should drop him a line. About a month ago, I bought one of his PC (DB-15) to 5200 converter, with a built on start button. This allows you to use one of the many joysticks made for PC's. Right now I'm using a digital (I have a wico for analog), but you can find analogs that work with this cord. I think you can use any DB-15 joystick that does not need special drivers. Bohoki can advise you what to use, based on what your needs are.

 

Right now, I use it with a ps1 style controller. The patch cord will see the directional, and 2 buttons. The start button is built on, but you can still use the provided port to hook up a stock stick for the start/and number pads. The directionals are not wired. This means your Atari stick does not need to be put in center. It is really a nice piece of work.

 

I also enjoy the Wico Stick. Atari Brian may have one for sale, he has decent prices. Check his sales thread. It is a joy with Centipede, and many others. I have 1 stock controller that is 100%. I like to use it with Super Breakout, and a few others. Between these three options, I enjoy the console more than my others.

 

There is another option, but expensive. There is a device called the Masterplay. It converts the 5200 controller port to accept Atari 2600 controllers. To tell the truth, I don't feel I need it now. I feel my bases are covered.

 

I hope this helps.