Commodore 1541-II disk drive, broken power switch

[+FujiSkunk]

This evening I went to fire up the Commodore, and discovered my 1541-II wouldn't power up. The power switch feels "soft" and won't stay in the on position. I took the drive apart and confirmed the switch itself is the problem, and not the plastic "lever" that fits over the switch. It feels like a circuit breaker switch that has popped, but I don't see anything to suggest a way to "unpop" it.

 

This drive was fine the last time I used it. I wonder if something got bumped while I was shuffling hardware around the past couple of weeks. I suspect the rest of the drive is still usable once I get a working switch again. Any advice, short of unsoldering the entire switch mechanism and looking for a replacement?

[Keatah]

Don't know anything specific about those switches, don't even know what they look like.

 

You could try taking it apart and seeing what melted or got stuck and try and undo it. Otherwise best option is to replace the switch.

[Uzumaki]

My 1541-ii just had the same thing today. Fine this morning, dead now. It feels springy, like the internal latch broke. The switch looks fine on the outside, it just won't go to "on" position or stay there anymore.

 

Until I can find exact size replacement, I've taken the old switch and installed 2 jumpers to make the drive permanently on. Just unplug or use power strip to turn it off.

[TheRealAnubis]

Without seeing a pic of the switch internal, I would guess it's the same switch in the 1581, which is the same switch in the breadbin C64 (and maybe even the C64C).

 

Here's a pic of a C64 switch - does it look like this? This is a 6 pin switch:

 

 

IF that is the switch, here's a link where you can buy a new one (the only thing you may want to do is keep the plastic rocker part and use it on the new switch):

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/M2022TXW41-DA/360-2270-ND/1055859

 

I've been told that this is a drop in replacement, but haven't had to order one yet because I have several 'donor' boards that I get parts from.

 

I hope this helps!

Edited June 26, 2014 by TheRealAnubis

[+FujiSkunk]

I still haven't fixed mine. Too much other stuff on the to-do list. Thanks for that link, Anubis, that will help immensely.

[TheRealAnubis]

I still haven't fixed mine. Too much other stuff on the to-do list. Thanks for that link, Anubis, that will help immensely.

 

I have the same problem - too many things to fix, not enough time. Let me know if you end up getting one of those switches, and how it works out!

[Uzumaki]

Looks exactly the same, not sure about the size though I'd have to dig up my caliper and compare the original switch to the spec the site provided. At a glance the spec looks right. Total would come to a bit over $10 for first class shipment of one switch.

[TheRealAnubis]

Looks exactly the same, not sure about the size though I'd have to dig up my caliper and compare the original switch to the spec the site provided. At a glance the spec looks right. Total would come to a bit over $10 for first class shipment of one switch.

 

Yeah, they are a bit pricey when you only want one.. I typically try to shop around for other stuff I might need so at least the parts are more than the shipping! Also, sometimes - depending on the crowd, you could buy several and then offer them to anyone that needs them - you can usually sell stuff for less than they would just pay for one + shipping, so it's a good deal for both parties.

[CRTGAMER]

You could solder a jumper wire across the bad switch temporarily until you get a new one. Running the power cord to a monitor stand power strip could be another solution.

[Uzumaki]

 

Yeah, they are a bit pricey when you only want one.. I typically try to shop around for other stuff I might need so at least the parts are more than the shipping! Also, sometimes - depending on the crowd, you could buy several and then offer them to anyone that needs them - you can usually sell stuff for less than they would just pay for one + shipping, so it's a good deal for both parties.

 

Still better than paying $30+ for a replacement 1541-II on eBay that may not work anyway.

 

First class shipping came to $2.86 so the switch itself is more expensive than shipping. It should last me another 25 years though

[Uzumaki]

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=360-2270-nd

 

Pin lines up exactly. Only the rocker portion is a bit bigger so a little modding would be needed on the 1541-ii case. It would look very close to stock though and better than having a long pole sticking out or having to reach around to unplug it when not using it.

 

The jumper bypass is the cheapest solution though but it'd be always on, an inconvience if you need to reboot the drive or temporarily turn it off to test another disk drive that has the same ID.

[+FujiSkunk]

How hard would it be to use the original switch's rocker? Looks to me like it could be pried out and then replaced.

[TheRealAnubis]

How hard would it be to use the original switch's rocker? Looks to me like it could be pried out and then replaced.

 

That's what I did with a C64 switch that I put into a 1581 drive - the plastic part was too tight, so I swapped it with the old part (which pops right off) and that took care of it!

[coleconut]

You could solder a jumper wire across the bad switch temporarily until you get a new one. Running the power cord to a monitor stand power strip could be another solution.

Picked up a C64 and a 1541-II on Craigslist and the drive has this same switch issue. Computer works fine and was told the drive works but before investing in a new switch, want to try the jumper to ensure this thing works. I can handle the soldering to do this but because I am a noob at these things, need to know exactly what I am jumpering. The connections are 1 thru 6, and I added them to the picture below. Which ones are to be connected to bypass the switch?

Edited April 26, 2015 by coleconut

[CRTGAMER]

Picked up a C64 and a 1541-II on Craigslist and the drive has this same switch issue. Computer works fine and was told the drive works but before investing in a new switch, want to try the jumper to ensure this thing works. I can handle the soldering to do this but because I am a noob at these things, need to know exactly what I am jumpering. The connections are 1 thru 6, and I added them to the picture below. Which ones are to be connected to bypass the switch?

 

Appears to be a double pole switch with "on" position at either direction. I suspect one set of each bank is a dead section not used just mounted to an solder pad empty trace.

 

1, 2 and 3 are one bank with 2 being the center pole.

 

4, 5 and 6 is the other bank with 5 being the center pole.

 

Normally which ever way the rocker of the switch moves, the opposite side makes contact. Keep the two banks separate and jumper wire from each center to one side at a time. Both banks will have its matched side jumped.

 

For instance if the rocker flicks towards the 1 and 4 for power on then 2 and 3 are jumped; also 5 and 6 are jumped.

 

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While you have the drive apart maybe throw in a reset switch as well as 8 - 9 address select switch. Both are handy switches, best to mount them in the front.