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Atari 5200 digital arcade stick with keypad and rapid fire


grips03

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I should point out rev3 and rev4 work great

 

Rev5 does not work in actual operation and won't be sold or used.

 

Many games work with 5200 digital arcade controller: Moon Patrol, Defender, Ms. Pacman, Archon, MULE, Dig Dug, Jungle Hunt, Mario Bros, River Raid, Robotron, Qix, Super Cobra, Space Invaders, Frogger (rapid fire helps), Berserk, etc.

 

Some games do not work, such as: Congo Bongo, Counter Measure, Final Legacy, Galaxian, Gorf, Missile Command, and perhaps some other I have not tested.

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I'm taking a break from making complete controllers for a while. I will continue to sell bare PCBs for $23, or $29 populated shipped in the US.

 

Please note PCBs requires 2 normally open and 2 normally closed (NC) microswitches.

 

If you need 2 nc microswitches with a short lever I'll include them at no extra cost. Microswitches were removed from new NGX controllers, and hence have solder on the tabs.

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change that, I'll include (4) short lever microswitch for $3 when buying a pcb. They are Omron brand and pulled from NGX controllers, and hence will have solder on the tabs.

 

Reason to provide 4 and not 2 is so that the joystick has the same force needed for up/down/left/right. Mixing brands/force might feel weird.

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Finally tried mine, works great! How does rapid fire work?

button "C" is rapid fire version of button "A", just hold down for rapid fire

button "D" is rapid fire version of button "B" just hold down for rapid fire

 

holding C works great for Defender and Moon Patrol

holding D in Denfender will use all smart bombs too fast, in Moon Patrol buggy will keep jumping

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button "C" is rapid fire version of button "A", just hold down for rapid fire

button "D" is rapid fire version of button "B" just hold down for rapid fire

 

holding C works great for Defender and Moon Patrol

holding D in Denfender will use all smart bombs too fast, in Moon Patrol buggy will keep jumping

Thanks! What a great joystick! Thank you for making these

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Still waiting to test mine. My father recovered my boxed 4-port 5200 the other day but unfortunately, I didn't pack any of the games or the switch box when I boxed it up a good decade and a half ago. D'oh!

 

Hmm...2-port on eBay at a decent price...

Edited by Lynxpro
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  • 2 months later...

I have parts to make 2 more of these. Anyone want to order one?

 

Base controller is used original Neo Geo AES controller.

 

I'll be using new Panasonic microswitches as well. I think they feel slightly nicer than the Omron ones. Also the AES joystick is nicer than the NeoGeoX one as well. The only down side is the cases are used and hence all have scratches from use and being 20 years old. Cases are washed and in good shape otherwise. I'll post pictures of the controller before shipping to ensure it meets expectations. So far I think everyone who has purchased one likes the controller.

Edited by grips03
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As much as I love the 5200, it is my favorite, but it seems a shame to use actual AES sticks from the 90s. :(

 

I kind of agree, but I think if the controller is used and enjoyed then perhaps its ok.

 

I did use the NeoGeoX when it was possible, but its no longer being sold :(

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Hypothetically, could you use this board to make a 5200 controller using an old Jaguar gamepad? The 3rd fire button could be used for the start or pause function.

 

not possible, as it uses 2 normally open and 2 normally closed microswitches.

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Bare with me. :) Does your board work in conjunction with the existing hardware of a Neo Geo stick... or does it replace the original hardware?

 

It would require 4 DPST microswitches. Also I mount the new Atari 5200 PCB in the same spot as the ACBD button PCB, hence 24mm Seimitsu buttons are used. I also like the Seimitsu buttons more as well.

Edited by grips03
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  • 3 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 years later...

Just wanted to say thanks for sharing the gerbers for this! I just finished up building myself one of these. I've had a couple NIB Neo Geo X controllers stashed away for future conversions, so this was a good opportunity to finally make use of one. Plus I have NG arcade stick conversions for just about all of my 8-bit systems, so I just had to have one for the 5200 too. :)

 

Some notes about this build:

  • I went with Jlcpcb to fab the boards instead, as they do all kinds of colors and they're dirt cheap compared to OshPark.
  • The recommended keypad is either NLA or out of stock, but I found some substitutes on Digikey with black keys instead of white, which look cooler IMHO (p/n: 3845 or 1528-2673-ND) I then measured the keypad, made a cardstock template and used that as a cutting guide. I used a drill at first, then a Dremel to hog out the rest of the hole in the shell. I fine tuned it with some flat files on the sides & round files on the corners. I did lots of test fitting to get it perfect as possible... Measure twice, cut once, because once it's gone, it's gone!
  • I used a generic 16mm momentary button (ebay p/n: R13-507) for the reset button on the back, by the cord strain relief. It's not the best though, so I may swap this out for something higher quality in the future.
  • I used JST connectors on the Reset button wiring and DB-15 cable, incase I ever need to completely separate the top & bottom controller shell.
  • I used new/upgraded Seimitsu parts where I could: 24mm buttons, LS-56 spring, receiver, 30mm clear bubble ball top (from Paradise Arcade Shop) and a JNX GOTW Octogate, except for the DB-15 cable (recycled from a broken 5200 controller) and the stock Omron microswitches, as they're DPST and are required for this circuit.
  • I should note that when I hooked them up according to the instructions on post #25, my directional controls were backwards: up was down, left was right and vice versa.. The grounds, horizontal & vertical wires were correct, but once I switched the directional wires from anything labeled as NC to NO and anything labeled NO to NC, everything worked as it should. To clarify: Left = NC, Right = NO, UP = NC, Down = NO, see pic below. Hopefully that eliminates any confusion and helps someone if they decide to build one of these.
  • I made some custom labels in photoshop, printed them on Silhouette brushed metal sticker paper, then laminated them. (I forgot to add Pause & Start button labels, but they're there now, though not pictured)

That's pretty much it. All in all, this came out pretty well and am pleased with the results. Rapid fire is nice to have close by on buttons C & D too. Anyway, here's some pics. Cheers 🍻

 

20230207_231434.thumb.jpg.c3d65ea9f5fd5129c1bb1bd2ae1feb74.jpg20230207_231612.thumb.jpg.b32e23fcdc5d4f65c3df56dab92bd1c5.jpg555a64d53bcedcb7df682eee3a2e0389.0.thumb.jpg.e3e3ad397e95f58d98c8255930cd2c00.jpg51e268fbc89b1551f3a6bc4381a70aad.0.thumb.jpg.4ccd13c6d453d09722499ecf8358d074.jpg

 

 

Edited by SiLic0ne t0aD
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