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Colecovision controller mini pcb for Super Famicom NTT Data - interest list


grips03

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I made two Colecovision controller mini pcbs for Super Famicom NTT Data gamepad, one using SOT23-3 and the other 1206 small signal diodes.

 

No idea if they will work, but will test in 3 weeks.

 

If wires don't fit due to space, I can make a new full scale pcb, but would need to sell 9, in order to make it worth the effort, around 30 hours of time.

 

Bare mini PCB without diodes would be $18 shipped in US and $23 to Canada. With diodes soldered would be $30 for US and $35 for Canada. Diodes do not cost much, but they are annoying to solder.

 

Larger pcb would close to $80-100, so I would only make if the above mini pcb fails.

 

Both of these would be DIY, i.e. not selling a complete controller.

 

Post interest below.

 

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I just don't think that many people have those controllers to exchange. If people would mail controllers to me, I guess I can put the PCB in for them for a fee. I don't mind making 4 or 5 of them, but after that its PCBs only for me and let someone else do the heavy lifting

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i know how hard its to add pcb in those controller since i try many time with out success and finish to put in a externe box but the famicom network controller i have its so great to play with

 

i cant wait to get you ntt pcb

 

I'm going to take a ton of pictures for install into the super famicom ntt data controller. I'll add them to this thread. I really I hope I got it right the first time.

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1) wiring info for Superfamicom NTT Data

 

Please note that PCB needs to have ground traces cut as up, down, left, right, A (Left button) use ground. All else uses common and not ground.

 

2) picture of pcb with ICs and resistors removed.

 

3) mini pcb with 1206 diodes attached.

 

4) Chipquik - use to remove 3 ICs. The resistors can come off with the soldering iron only.

 

5) Desolder braid - use with flux paste below to remove Chipquik

 

6) Flux paste - use with desolder braid to remove Chipquik. Make sure pcb is out of case as you don't want flux on controller case.

 

7) Flux remover - use to remove sticky flux from the SFC NTT Data PCB

 

8-) Use Kimtech wipes to remove flux. Old toothbrush also helps - do not use toothbrush for human use ever again! Use with Flux remover.

 

9) Otherside of NTT data PCB, still needs to have ground plane and traces cut and wired. You might be able to see pencil marks where this will occur.

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Edited by grips03
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nice start have you try to close the controller with the pcb in

 

Step 2

 

pic 1 - you can see how small the mini pcb is, and yes the case closes just fine.

pic 2 - shows the traces to cut to make buttons b,x,y and keypad use common, This makes up, down, left, right, A use GND.

pic 3 - make sure to tin the pads with solder, for the 30awg wire. Also make sure to cover contacts with electrical tape so pins do not short against the mini pcb

pic 4 - shows how the db9 cable would better on the other side

pic 5 - shows the two posts to remove off rear shell - in blue , might not be needed on rev2. Notice the lower posts on the rear shell, this holds the mini pcb in place.

pic 6 - shows the type of wire to use, also the type of bit to use on the Dremel to cut the traces on the NTT Data PCB in pic 2

pic 7 - Notice the white cross wire does not interfere with the rubber contacts.

pic 8 - shows where to connect COM (common)

pic 9 - use Hakko / CHP CSP-30-1 to cut the wire shown in pic 6

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Edited by grips03
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pic 1 - shows all wired connected

pic 2 - shows how to tape L/R buttons to make closing case easier

pic 3 - how to smash a whole bunch of wires in the case

pic 4 - I made Left button = A Right button = B button 3 = X button 4 = Y - might be better to swap these around so it makes more sense

 

I did not connect . C < > Left Right

 

There is a spot on the PCB to connect Left to * and Right to #

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Edited by grips03
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Labor instensive it is and now I completely understand why you prefer to just sell the Mini-PCB and not offer a full moding service.

 

Let me ask you this as I am completely ignorant on what it would take time wise as well as financially. Would it be possible/feasible to design a complete replacement PCB that has a DB9 cable all wired up to it that would just be dropped into the controller shell after the NTT PCB was removed. Well, actually, I know it is possible after seeing your projects as well as other numerous projects over the years here on AtariAge.

 

Thanks for sharing all the pics.

Edited by NIAD
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