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I have a small test PCB being made now - ready in 3 weeks. If the Sparkfun button contacts look good, I'll order rev 1.5 and do additional testing.

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can you order one for me of your 1.5 board ill pay a part of your minimum order of 3

 

I'll be selling these down the road, but too early to sell now as they might not work

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What's wrong with SNES/SFC controller D-pad :?

It's a D-Pad that you have to canibalize out of a SNES/SFC controller. What I have in mind is a D-Pad that can be bought new from a supplier.

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It's a D-Pad that you have to canibalize out of a SNES/SFC controller. What I have in mind is a D-Pad that can be bought new from a supplier.

That's why I said I'm going to ask for a quote for a mold (at moldex, mainly the controller shell)

Buttons, D-pad mold would be made somewhere else

 

The controller just work fine as it is, we only have to get a mold and we're set! :)

Grisp already made the pcb

 

The one I have here (done by chart45 ) work so nice! I will never use anything than this now

Edited by retroillucid
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That's why I said I'm going to ask for a quote for a mold (at moldex, mainly the controller shell)

Buttons, D-pad mold would be made somewhere else

 

The controller just work fine as it is, we only have to get a mold and we're set! :)

Grisp already made the pcb

 

The one I have here (done by chart45 ) work so nice! I will never use anything than this now

 

if your looking into getting a mold made, it would be nice to have diamond button pattern more like the SFC NTT Data for the action buttons. You could also remove the left and right button above the d-pad. The diamond pattern allows for very good Front Line control. If the diamond (4 buttons) was present the dot and C buttons could also be removed as they would be redundant. I would change the shape of the zero button to look like the others, this would help reduce the number of shapes for the buttons. One could always label the top part of the case vs. each individual button to reduce costs as well.

Edited by grips03
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in mine i use a original dpad since the height is different feel like the original nes d pad

 

1AE195D2-A88E-41B1-8DE5-3B060B49F7F7.jpg

 

the Nintendo d-pad is a little small for the Famicom Network, so it can move slightly in the opening. However I bet it works better as the edges of the d-pad are higher and hence your thumb stays on the d-pad better. With the stock Famicom Network d-pad it seems like the thumb could slide off more. Perhaps if JF has these made he can get it more like the orignal NES d-pad.

Edited by grips03
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the Nintendo d-pad is a little small for the Famicom Network, so it can move slightly in the opening. However I bet it works better as the edges of the d-pad are higher and hence your thumb stays on the d-pad better. With the stock Famicom Network d-pad it seems like the thumb could slide off more. Perhaps if JF has these made he can get it more like the orignal NES d-pad.

 

thats what i tought when try the d pad in the famicom network casing but when the dpad sit in the contac pad and you close the controlle it stay in place i play almost everyday and the dpad never moved from the center

 

for sure if jf make a new controller its a must... it feel so much better for me

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the Nintendo d-pad is a little small for the Famicom Network, so it can move slightly in the opening. However I bet it works better as the edges of the d-pad are higher and hence your thumb stays on the d-pad better. With the stock Famicom Network d-pad it seems like the thumb could slide off more. Perhaps if JF has these made he can get it more like the orignal NES d-pad.

 

 

thats what i tought when try the d pad in the famicom network casing but when the dpad sit in the contac pad and you close the controlle it stay in place i play almost everyday and the dpad never moved from the center

 

for sure if jf make a new controller its a must... it feel so much better for me

 

Yeah, that can be done easely

 

Another thing I want is the ColecoVision logo embossed to replace the actual Nintendo one

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I thought I saw a thread on AA about making new buttons and d-pads using silicone molds and plastic casting resin. I think it was the Jaguar folks. Not sure how economical it is.

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I'll have someone make a 3d printed d-pad for the Famicom Network. Shaped more like the NES d-pad, but match the Famicom Network size. It will have a texture as this is how Shapeways.com makes them.

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I'll have someone make a 3d printed d-pad for the Famicom Network. Shaped more like the NES d-pad, but match the Famicom Network size. It will have a texture as this is how Shapeways.com makes them.

It's a good plan, but I wonder how well plastic parts printed by 3D printers can withstand finger/pressure abuse. From what little I know of the 3D printing process, the plastic used starts as a powder, and the end result has a slightly porous finish. I imagine a D-pad made from that kind of plastic could crack under constant finger pressure.

 

Or maybe I'm just wrong and I don't know half of what I should know about this stuff... :P

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Yeah, that can be done easely

 

Another thing I want is the ColecoVision logo embossed to replace the actual Nintendo one

 

Case could also be used for Atari 5200 as well. 5200 is easier than Intellvision as it offers power on the db15 port. I would have to rework my existing 5200 PCB design to use 4 normally open switches, but its certainly possible. Intellivision might also be possible. If you had a different rubber contact made. This would require 8 contacts vs. the 4 that are in normal controllers.

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Case could also be used for Atari 5200 as well. 5200 is easier than Intellvision as it offers power on the db15 port. I would have to rework my existing 5200 PCB design to use 4 normally open switches, but its certainly possible. Intellivision might also be possible. If you had a different rubber contact made. This would require 8 contacts vs. the 4 that are in normal controllers.

We can have Atari and INtv logo as well ;)

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It's a good plan, but I wonder how well plastic parts printed by 3D printers can withstand finger/pressure abuse. From what little I know of the 3D printing process, the plastic used starts as a powder, and the end result has a slightly porous finish. I imagine a D-pad made from that kind of plastic could crack under constant finger pressure.

 

Or maybe I'm just wrong and I don't know half of what I should know about this stuff... :P

 

Some of the printers I've seen use a spool of plastic, similar to a spool of lawn trimmer line. Many colors are available, even translucent colors.

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