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TheRealAnubis

Atari 1010 belt sizes - drive and counter - anyone?

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Hi,

 

I've been reading a TON of posts about the Atari 410 recorder and the belt measurements, but I can't find any info on the 1010 (I found the service manual, but that Atari part number isn't really helping).

 

I have one that is acting strange, and while it seems to play a music tape at the correct speed, the program tape (I only have one so far) is so quiet that it's not loading.

 

I popped it apart, and, surprise, the belts are going slack. I can't believe it's still playing, honestly. Anyway, once I get some new belts on, I'm going to try and troubleshoot the loading problem and see if I can figure out what's happening.

 

I used to fix VCR's back in the day, and somewhere I have a belt gauge that will allow me to measure the belts - if I can ever find it, that is... That's why I'm hoping someone already knows the sizes!

 

 

Thanks!

Edited by TheRealAnubis

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Hi,

 

I've been reading a TON of posts about the Atari 410 recorder and the belt measurements, but I can't find any info on the 1010 (I found the service manual, but that Atari part number isn't really helping).

 

I have one that is acting strange, and while it seems to play a music tape at the correct speed, the program tape (I only have one so far) is so quiet that it's not loading.

 

I popped it apart, and, surprise, the belts are going slack. I can't believe it's still playing, honestly. Anyway, once I get some new belts on, I'm going to try and troubleshoot the loading problem and see if I can figure out what's happening.

 

I used to fix VCR's back in the day, and somewhere I have a belt gauge that will allow me to measure the belts - if I can ever find it, that is... That's why I'm hoping someone already knows the sizes!

 

 

Thanks!

There are two 1010. The Japanese Sanyo FS and the Hong Kong FC (Chelco).

I believe the better one is the FS, with FCC ID BPA99H1010. The Chelco FCC ID is BPA7YJ (on the bottom of 1010)

Either way, you can just go to Ebay and order an assortment of small diameter belts. Like you say, knowing the Atari part number (eg. FC100228 motor belt for FS) doesn't help much.

You could call Best and/or B&C and see if they sell them, but they would be so cheap that it would not come near a $20 minimum order. Or you can go to a audio electronics store and get tape drive belts.

The field service manual, probably at atarimania.com, gives instructions how to replace the belt(s).

Edited by russg
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There are two 1010. The Japanese Sanyo FS and the Hong Kong FC (Chelco).

I believe the better one is the FS, with FCC ID BPA99H1010. The Chelco FCC ID is BPA7YJ (on the bottom of 1010)

Either way, you can just go to Ebay and order an assortment of small diameter belts. Like you say, knowing the Atari part number (eg. FC100228 motor belt for FS) doesn't help much.

You could call Best and/or B&C and see if they sell them, but they would be so cheap that it would not come near a $20 minimum order. Or you can go to a audio electronics store and get tape drive belts.

The field service manual, probably at atarimania.com, gives instructions how to replace the belt(s).

 

Figures I have the Hong Kong ones, but hey, they still run, so I'm thinking they are pretty hearty as well!

 

If no one ends up finding the dimensions for the belts I'll dig up my belt gauge and post them here - once you have the sizes, belts become a lot cheaper. Back in the day working on VCR's, stereo's, turntables, etc. I rarely paid more than $3 for a single belt, and those were the big ones..

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Imagine looking for something in your storage unit that you used last around 1992 (at the latest), and moved twice since then.

 

BAM! Found it! And it only took about 2.5 hours of heavy lifting! :woozy:

 

post-37051-0-03196600-1403575359_thumb.jpg

 

I'll be posting the belt sizes for the Hong Kong model (BPA7YJ1010) ASAP!

 

OK - I've got the belts measured. The drive belt wasn't as stretchy as the counter belt (and that's why it still worked) - here are the measurements and thicknesses minus 4% (the gauge recommends 3%-5%).

 

Drive belt - Thickness (inches) .040 - .046 (either size will be a good fit), size (inches) 9.5". MCM part number - 42-260, price $1.40

 

Counter belt (real stretchy), Thickness (inches) .031 - .040 (either size will be a good fit), size (inches) 7.432", MCM part number - 42-235, price $1.40

 

My ACTUAL measurements (not stretching the belts, just getting them barely taut)

 

Drive belt size - 10.00"

Counter belt size - 8.250" This belt was so stretched out that it didn't really go over the belt guides, and the counter did not work. I used the chart on the back of the belt gauge to get the closest belt to what I measured - and that belt isn't available on the MCM site (42-1065), so I went with the next SMALLEST one (with a correct thickness), since the counter belt was all stretched out anyway.

 

Hopefully this will help those that want to replace the belts on their Atari 1010 Hong Kong model!

 

Here's a picture of the back of the belt gauge, just in case that helps too:

 

post-37051-0-29308400-1403577616_thumb.jpg

 

I'll try to get these belts ordered and installed and then post back when I have time - it may be a while, though - I have several irons in the fire right now!

Edited by TheRealAnubis
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Are the belts hard to replace on the 1010? For someone that's never replaced a tape deck or VCR belt before?

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Are the belts hard to replace on the 1010? For someone that's never replaced a tape deck or VCR belt before?

Actually, it's pretty straightforward - I'll see if I can put up a set of picture instructions, at least for the Hong Kong model...

 

Until I do, I'll go through it -

 

Remove the 4 bottom screws

Remove the brown faceplate (unplug the LED from the board on the bottom half)

Unplug the larger plug from the bottom half (tape heads, etc)

You can prepare to change the drive belt at this step.

Remove the 2 screws on the capstan bottom plate - you don't need to remove the plate! Just slip the old belt off and slip the new belt on - take care not to lose the little spacer that goes with the screw on the side of the capstain plate.

Put the 2 plate screws back, then remove any screws needed to get the mechanism off of the top plate - gently remove the mechanism (watch for the catch for the cassette door).

Remove the old belt, and install your new one.

 

Put it all back together and enjoy!

 

I'll see if I can get some pics up tonight or tomorrow for you..

Edited by TheRealAnubis

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Thanks, I just looked and my tape drive is the Japanese version.

 

OOF! I wonder if there's any chance they could use the same belts?

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Well, I just got the belts in and installed on one of the 1010's - they fit really well! The counter belt seems a little thin compared to the old one, but not my much - now it all runs correctly.

 

Of course, the 1010 still isn't working. I've tried loading a commercial cassette (using CLOAD, and the select, select/option), as well as just getting a cassette and saving a simple 2 line program to it, then trying to reload. I get error 138, 140, etc. but it never loads.. Heads, pinch roller, capstan all clean. If I pop a music cassette in I can just barely hear it if I crank up the volume pretty high. I'm thinking it may be a short somewhere, or maybe bad capacitors. Any tips?

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Well, even if my 1010 isn't working, I can still post up some pix on how to do the belt replacements!

 

We'll start with opening up the 1010:

Remove the screws in the indicated areas -

 

post-37051-0-71906100-1404390945_thumb.jpg

 

Now gently open up the deck by opening the back and getting the bottom half to separate from the front faceplate - caution! The faceplate is held by plastic tabs on the top and bottom that can be easily broken - just be slow and easy and it will come apart!

 

The two red arrows indicate the plugs that need to be removed so you can separate the deck into 3 pieces - top, bottom, and faceplate.

 

post-37051-0-26002100-1404390947_thumb.jpg

 

The green arrows indicate the screws you need to remove to get the drive belt changed. The red arrows show the location of the other screws that you need to remove once the drive belt is changed, and you're ready to change the counter belt:

 

post-37051-0-30941300-1404390948_thumb.jpg

 

Here's a different angle showing the other screw's location better - I've labeled them A and B (note A is already removed) - when you remove B, make sure to get the screw and the little spacer/collar that goes with it..

 

post-37051-0-24071700-1404390949_thumb.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the 2 screws that you need to remove to change the drive belt - note the smaller screw and collar.

 

post-37051-0-30071300-1404390950_thumb.jpg

 

Once the screws are out, you can rotate the plate up slightly in the direction of the red arrow:

 

post-37051-0-22729600-1404390951_thumb.jpg

 

Once you have rotated the plate up enough, you will see a notch where you can slip the belt out of. Also note the lower red arrow - this is where you attach the screw with the collar - through the black plastic piece.

I cleaned the belt path with 91% isopropyl alcohol to make sure it was free of any sticky stuff or rubber chaff:

 

post-37051-0-25541300-1404390952_thumb.jpg

 

Now you can put the 2 screws back in place and that's it for the drive belt! Note the yellow arrow - I failed to put this little metal finger through a slot in the black plastic piece before I re-attached it with the screw and collar - make sure that the finger is in the plastic piece or your eject button will not work correctly!

 

post-37051-0-70857400-1404391542_thumb.jpg

 

Now you can gently lift the assembly up and remove the counter belt - the red arrow shows where it goes - around the base of the forward tape drive pin. The green arrow shows the cassette door latch (part of the black plastic piece you removed earlier) - make sure to gently fit the assembly back onto the top case, allowing the door latch to click over the door pin and hold the door closed. I also cleaned the counter belt path with alcohol.

 

post-37051-0-28041200-1404391011_thumb.jpg

 

I found re-assembly to be a bit of a pain! I popped the plugs back in for the LED and heads/motor, etc. then snaked the wires down to make sure they didn't get pinched, then closed the top and bottom almost all the way, and gently replaced the faceplate. Take note of the red arrows - they indicate 2 leaf switches and 2 plates on the FF and REW buttons. The switches go behind the plates (so you won't see them when it's back together) - if you're fuddling around trying to get it back together and not minding the switches, they can get bent easily! (Ahem!). The green arrow shows where the wiring harness can be gently tucked as not to become pinched by the case or screws.

 

post-37051-0-45953800-1404390958_thumb.jpg

 

This last pic just shows the order that I put it back together - just make sure everything is plugged in, and no wires are getting pinched - First the top and bottom case come together (almost all the way), then I started the top of the faceplate - hooking the faceplate over the tabs, then rotating the faceplate down until it's flush, then finally close the case completely. It may take a try or two since holding all these pieces is pretty awkward!

 

post-37051-0-09691100-1404391012_thumb.jpg

 

 

It seems like a lot, but it's a fairly quick process - especially if you don't have to measure the belts!

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Oh - and does anyone have a schematic available for download? I found one on a foreign site that's pretty nice, but it doesn't include the values of all components, and I'm not sure, but this may be the 1010S - NOT Hong Kong model..

 

I have downloaded the field service manual, but the schematics aren't included. :(

 

post-37051-0-58031800-1404512762_thumb.gif

 

Also - I have noticed that many of the diagnostic flow charts in the service manual lead to 'replace head' - were they that weak? I've had a ton of cassette decks over the years and never did I need to replace a head...

Edited by TheRealAnubis

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Hi lovers of the original hardware,

 

I know that most retroguys scoop out the mechanics of a 1010 and use the casing for a modern SIO drive based on SD card and so on. Not me, I like to keep my stuff in it's original state where possible. Sometimes I think this modern stuff in an old computer is going too far and changes the handling of the machines too much. Sure you can put in modern hardware but after all the upgrades, do you still own an Atari 800 ?

Enough philosophy now, let's get down to work.

Last weekend the original belt of my 1010 gave up after I played around with the drive after 10 years or so. Tried to order a replacement but didn't want to pay more than 10 bucks. Ordered a set of belts to find out that they were all too small. There seemed to be a confuision about how to measure belts by the seller, my broken belt measures 26,6 cm (I'm in Europe :-) ) That should be with minus 6 % strech divided by pi -> 8 cm. The seller calculated sth else.

However I found a metallic belt in my collection of rubber rings that has the size. It can be streched more than rubber so I gave it a try.

I OWN THE OTHER 1010 MODEL; NOT THE ONE FROM ABOVE

 

So here's a second description how to replace belts for the second existing model. :-D

  1. Follow the steps from above
  2. remove PCB carefully, remember the exact position. Three fragile mechanical switches go from board to drive, take care here not to bend them. Wires can be extended some millimeters by opening a yellow wire (seen in top right edge of picture)
  3. remove the 3 screws from attached picture
  4. now you can remove the plate - setting free the wheels the new belt is put on
  5. put in new belt,
  6. put everything back together

Enjoy listening to beep noises again and wait while loading with 600 bit/s again.
B.T.W: Metal "belt" make more mechanical noise like the original. In exchange to it, it will NEWER BREAK :twisted:

Mike

post-65441-0-90913000-1543519455_thumb.jpg

post-65441-0-97438400-1543519481_thumb.jpg

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Wow! That is innovative. Hope it doesn't put too much stress on the motor. But, I likes the idea of metal belt, never heard nor seen them. Good luck. I too am an original-ist. I love the original hardware, love the looks, love the feel. I even still load up games using my 1010, did so today. Enjoy the hissing, screeching, of the load process. The errors, I could do without. Anyway, us original boys need to stick together (and have backup equipment, cause this stuff is really really old now).

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