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Albert

Does anyone make new Atari 8-bit cartridge shells?

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What version of Solidworks do you have? I'm considering purchasing it, or going with AutoCAD Inventor...

 

-Thom

 

I am using a trial version of Solidworks 2015. So far I have been happy with it. It has a modern GUI interface and yet is fast on my two year old pc. :)

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Any luck?

No - I thought the printer could handle running a print from USB stick, but there's no connector for it. I will have to install the printing software on my laptop, since the printer is not next to a PC.

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No - I thought the printer could handle running a print from USB stick, but there's no connector for it. I will have to install the printing software on my laptop, since the printer is not next to a PC.

 

A few can run with a direct connection to a PC/laptop. It's not recommended due to the length of time the printer sometimes run, a hour or more per print. Makes the pc virtually useless for other activities.

 

Most printers I've seen use an SD card. Your slicer software is on a pc somewhere and once you get the g-code created you save it to an SD card then sneeker move it to the printer SD port. Is that how yours is setup?

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A few can run with a direct connection to a PC/laptop. It's not recommended due to the length of time the printer sometimes run, a hour or more per print. Makes the pc virtually useless for other activities.

 

Most printers I've seen use an SD card. Your slicer software is on a pc somewhere and once you get the g-code created you save it to an SD card then sneeker move it to the printer SD port. Is that how yours is setup?

I have the DaVinci 1.0. I think it has an SD card in it, but it is hidden behind a back panel. Been a while since I used it. I'll do some Googling.

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If it's the .jr then you should have an USB/SD port. If it's the regular then the specs say you should have a USB port only. Of course they have a bad tendency to change specs on you mid model like the car manufactures do sometimes. ;-)

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If it's the .jr then you should have an USB/SD port. If it's the regular then the specs say you should have a USB port only. Of course they have a bad tendency to change specs on you mid model like the car manufactures do sometimes. ;-)

It's not the junior. I didn't see anything on the sides, but there is a panel on the back with two screws holding it on. I will most likely just put the slicer software on my work laptop and run it that way. I'll try to make a print this evening.

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I still believe this Silicone and Resin ideal be better for mass production of cartridge shells.

 

I do not see using 3D printing good for a handful of shells, unless you want to factor over $5 already into the overhead cost and have your customers wait if you start getting massive orders.

 

http://www.sc3000-multicart.com/sc3000-cart-case.htm

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I still believe this Silicone and Resin ideal be better for mass production of cartridge shells.

 

I do not see using 3D printing good for a handful of shells, unless you want to factor over $5 already into the overhead cost and have your customers wait if you start getting massive orders.

 

http://www.sc3000-multicart.com/sc3000-cart-case.htm

 

All through out this reference is the reason this is not good for mass production of cartridge shells. I believe you are so sold on this because it is 'supposedly' cheap that you are missing the point. Repeatedly the author indicates that it is very time and labor intensive. In fact that is one reason the author is closing down production. The Silicon and Resin process produces a mold that is not very durable, so you are going to have to remake the master mold every 40-50 shells or so. More time and money and labor. I'd be concerned about the durability of the finished product too. :(

 

I never said personal 3d printing was good for more than a hundred or so carts. It is good for prototyping and small runs. It does take less time and is less labor intensive. It might even be less expensive depending on what you factor in, ie no master mold to have to remake periodically. The product has the same durability as that produced by ABS injection molding, because you are using the same material. But it is not the magic bullet for mass production. :(

 

No.... I firmly believe that mass production can only really be done using automated injection molding. It is not cheap to setup, but as the number of items made go up, the cost for each item trends down sharply. The same cannot be said for either Silicone and Resin or 3D printing. Due to the somewhat manual labor involved in those methods, the cost per item remains relatively the same if you make 10 or a 1000.

 

You are free of course to persue the Silicon and Resin process. But please keep carefull records of material costs, time spent making the mold and then making at least forty items and exactly what you had to do to make a specific item. I agree it is probably cheaper in material costs than 3d printing, but when you add in the time and labor needed to produce the product you lose any advantage. Time is money they say. ;-)

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It's not the junior. I didn't see anything on the sides, but there is a panel on the back with two screws holding it on. I will most likely just put the slicer software on my work laptop and run it that way. I'll try to make a print this evening.

 

 

Were you able to make a print? :)

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Were you able to make a print? :)

I will have a print this evening. Not working any OT this evening, so I will have time to play. I have the printing software installed on my laptop. Soon as I eat dinner, I'll hook it up and start a print. I'll post pictures once the print is done. Hopefully everything works after the long haul and non-use period.

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I will have a print this evening. Not working any OT this evening, so I will have time to play. I have the printing software installed on my laptop. Soon as I eat dinner, I'll hook it up and start a print. I'll post pictures once the print is done. Hopefully everything works after the long haul and non-use period.

Well, I'll have to try take 2 after work. Print bed needs aligned. I've noticed this printer does much better when there is a large flat base. Is there any way to print this cart laying flat rather than standing up on its side?

 

EDIT

Take 2 failed, but it was early in so I cancelled. This printer just cannot do overhangs. I am trying again, this time rotating the cart 270 degrees on the X-axis and trying medium density supports.

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Well, I'll have to try take 2 after work. Print bed needs aligned. I've noticed this printer does much better when there is a large flat base. Is there any way to print this cart laying flat rather than standing up on its side?

 

EDIT

Take 2 failed, but it was early in so I cancelled. This printer just cannot do overhangs. I am trying again, this time rotating the cart 270 degrees on the X-axis and trying medium density supports.

Bumping thread. I got the cart to print by laying it flat. The bed is cooling down, and I will try to get pics posted as soon as I am off work.

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I didn't have much luck on my machine with overhangs either. Usually I had to rotate until the majority of the object was laying flat on the bed. Now it's history.

 

I have a new machine supposedly showing up Monday. A XYZ Da Vinci 1.0 Pro. It was on sale briefly on Amazon and I managed to catch the sale. This model can do 3rd party filament and also has a laser cutting attachment you can pick up for about $200.00 more. We'll see if I have any better luck with it.

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I didn't have much luck on my machine with overhangs either. Usually I had to rotate until the majority of the object was laying flat on the bed. Now it's history.

 

I have a new machine supposedly showing up Monday. A XYZ Da Vinci 1.0 Pro. It was on sale briefly on Amazon and I managed to catch the sale. This model can do 3rd party filament and also has a laser cutting attachment you can pick up for about $200.00 more. We'll see if I have any better luck with it.

Cool machine! I have the XYZ DaVinci 1.0a.

 

Here's some pics of the 1st working shell I got to print. Since this was a first test, the quality is lower. I did 0.3mm layers, and only 10% fill. I believe it took 5.8m of filament, and print time was about 1:40.

 

post-650-0-79937700-1452784037_thumb.jpg

post-650-0-50467500-1452784041_thumb.jpg

post-650-0-06875200-1452784044_thumb.jpg

post-650-0-34693700-1452784045_thumb.jpg

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Hi Stephen,

 

Looking good for the first try. Looks like the corners could use some rounding. I'll look at my cad file and see if I can add more rounding. Also once you reduce the layer height to .2 mm or so and get a good print, you can use an acetone vapor bath to smooth out the layer ridges too.

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Yep: AtariMax, OSS and SDX use post and hole attachment. Tucker once sent me an AtariMax cart with a pass-thru which came through a slot cut in the standard shell. Worked fine and looked OK.

OSS CART is great. I went so far as putting basic xl into an original atari cart. it worked, but it was biotch

I wanted uniformity..

 

retentive I am..

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Maybe in few month I'll produce new cartridge shell with XEGS compatible - they will be made professionally, on the injection molding machine. Now I search for interesting thread  -how many will be necessary.

Cost - about 6-10$ per piece, depend of amount. Of course plus shiping cost - from Poland.

Any interested? Please send comment.

On pictures you see type of it. Of course they will be little diferent, but compatible with XEGS PCBs.

SAM_1656.thumb.JPG.45850fbe9bd1abef3c699bf001f1cda8.JPGSAM_1657.thumb.JPG.6faef11c0b2f8c7d14029adbd6e4f08f.JPG

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Excellent news!  I've always liked the louvered XEGS-style cartridge shells.  They're a pain to open without breaking the tabs, but if there's no need to recycle old shells any longer, that won't be as much of an issue.

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2 hours ago, Sikor said:

Any interested? Please send comment.

On pictures you see type of it. Of course they will be little diferent, but compatible with XEGS PCBs.

SAM_1656.thumb.JPG.45850fbe9bd1abef3c699bf001f1cda8.JPGSAM_1657.thumb.JPG.6faef11c0b2f8c7d14029adbd6e4f08f.JPG

 

Would you offer exact this one? If the new produced ones have also these silly tabs which make open very hard without damage, there´s no interest by me. If the halves will be fasten with a screw, I would take 20 pieces minimum.

 

 

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I have never opened an XEGS cart, just tons of the older carts with the metal back.  Do the Atari XEGS carts not use a screw?  That's interesting.  Would the shells ship with the two halves already snapped together so you have to pull them apart first?  Also, not crazy about the Atari logo being on the back.  I do like the large label area of these carts, though!  I am in the market for a large number of 8-bit shells, and even better if they are compatible with the Atari PCB layout.

 

Thanks!

 

 ..Al

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37 minutes ago, Albert said:

I have never opened an XEGS cart, just tons of the older carts with the metal back.  Do the Atari XEGS carts not use a screw?  That's interesting.  Would the shells ship with the two halves already snapped together so you have to pull them apart first?  Also, not crazy about the Atari logo being on the back.  I do like the large label area of these carts, though!  I am in the market for a large number of 8-bit shells, and even better if they are compatible with the Atari PCB layout.

 

Thanks!

 

 ..Al

XEGS carts snap together, once together they are a PITA to open again, generally one or more of the plastic posts snaps off when you reopen it. 

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Now I get information about interesting it. Maybe I do other version of opening than in original. And yes - it will be without Atari logo - policy.

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Are the XEGS boards the same as the earlier boards from Atari in terms of shape? 

 

As for shells snapping together, I prefer shells that have some tabs as well as a screw.  2600 shells, for instance, have six tabs (three on each side), as well as a screw in the middle.  Once you remove the screw, it's pretty easy to open the cart without damaging anything.  I imagine that would be a bit tougher with the 8-bit shells as you can't get as much "purchase" on the cart if you need to pry it apart.  The tabs help keep the two halves properly aligned, as well as keep the edges/corners from lifting up.  I prefer the screw be under the label (I think it looks better than having it on the back), but I understand some people probably don't like that because it means you cannot open the cart without damaging the label.

 

 ..Al

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