Rick Dangerous Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Looking forward to seeing the "after" photos.....have at it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Saturn Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 On the speaker grills your saying that they should have mesh covering the holes? I thought it was just the mesh from the speakers when mounded up to the holes was original and this one was just half assed when they assembled it. Replacents I have some pending in my amazon cart unless i can find someone to repair the original under $100 or some old stock ones on ebay. Not absolutely sure on the speaker mesh. I reached behind the flaring on mine and gently wiggled the speaker. The mesh cover did not move so I was under the impression they were separate pieces. Yes, just looked and the grill/mesh piece is a single part. Besides some dust, there's a distinguishable space between the front of the speaker (w/ its own face cover) and the mesh is apparently affixed to the kiosk with some sort of plastic tab or frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Thank you for confirming. Seems another thing to locate. On my marquee it looks like it was never put on. My guess is it was spare parts when the first guy assembled it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Controller fixed and back side wood loss filled. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Dangerous Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Controller fixed and back side wood loss filled. I've always wondered if particle board can be repaired. I have a small Nintendo game cart that had a few inches of the back corner smashed during a move a few years back... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 Fix is ez but sure takes alot of time to do it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 I’m on the fence about the restore. On the marquee I will have to get the Jaguar logo reproduced given the damage to it and its location. Now for the sides im stuck with what to do and figured I would get a sensuous from the Atari community. The bottom sides of the kiosk have the Jaguar logo on each side. Currently they are the original ones and I would rate one a B and the other C- . Some gouges and scratches . On one side removed 3-4” of the original vinyl covering to repair the wood damage. More repair is required to fix the minor chipping on the edges. Option One. Re apply new vinyl over the old and cut out a square to lay over the original vinyl and keep the official Jaguar stickers. This will allow me to fix all the edge chipping and do a tuck and role of the new vinyl into the new T molding. It will look strange Option Two. Get the logos reproduced on a 1:1 copy and have a full new sheet of vinyl. What to do... ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JagLynx4Life Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 I haven't measured the dimensions of the original logo but this seller has a 15" jaguar logo that could also be an option: http://m.ebay.com/itm/191118870077?nav=SEARCH If anything, maybe he can reproduce the size you need? GL! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXG/MNX Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 You need to have the logo special made a cut out also look at the material sometimes you a colors disorder when put the red letters on black background so that the red letters get darker. I got the logo including the yellow cirkels with 64-bit cutout but for two logos this is very expensive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Seems I have two saying redo. Thank you for looking I also looked at eBay and best electronic to see what I could find buy no luck on original. The eBay one is a vinyl cut out of the letters and the original seems to be a screen print on vinyl. @ txg do you have a photo of what you have done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Seems I have two saying redo. Thank you for looking I also looked at eBay and best electronic to see what I could find buy no luck on original. The eBay one is a vinyl cut out of the letters and the original seems to be a screen print on vinyl. @ txg do you have a photo of what you have done? The logo could be repaired, I wouldn't replace it. As for the water damage, you wanna seal that to be sure it doesn't mold\rot further. Looks like your gonna do a great job restoring this kiosk and congrats on getting one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXG/MNX Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Here a photo http://nl.tinypic.com/r/nv5vdd/8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXG/MNX Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 I still need to make me the metal footplate and repaint the bottom part is littlebit paint damage because I took it with me to e-jagfest and moving it in / out in the car. I also need to mount the goosseneck for joypad soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Thank you Shawn Sr. for the words of wisdom on repair of logo's. Ill have to take shots of each logo so you can see what im working with. For the water damage that is taken care of 100%. I have removed all the expanded wood/ lose and and refilled in layers over 5 days. I was worried if the loss was to deep I would have to reproduce the full panels but thank good it was a small amount. TXG That log looks much better then the originals. For your Kiosk it looks different then the one I have. Is this another version of the kiosk or diy? If you need measurements I have mine in parts and can get what you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXG/MNX Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 I don't have much good photos from the original my bottom part of the kiosk is new made the original was damaged during several moves by the former owner. I did try to do a good restore job. When the bottom metal plate is fit its pretty good I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 Side one B grade Side two C- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXG/MNX Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) To bad, I was thinking of doing it that way first but using 'cut out' letters looks much better but that just my opinion... But what you got is maybe the original look... I think it looks better when the black color paint is darker... I see the color is black between the letters, maybe transparant would be better or you must exactly match the black in the logo with the paint. Edited October 20, 2014 by TXG/MNX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 I would agree that the vinyl cut out on yours sure looks better but not something that was used when they made the original. If I was to use the vinyl cutout of each letter ill have to change the grafix on the marquee to match. I have some vinyl for arcade cabinet on the way to replace the original's . For the jaguar logos ill get them reproduced . For paint the only original parts with paint is the full back and top's of the cabinet sides are 3mil black vinyl. On your unit TXG I noticed your missing the T molding and the red t molding spacer from the top and bottom pieces. Original's spacer is a cnc cut out on ¾ osb. To recreate it would be simple to fake it with some strips of wood to hold the t molding if you wish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Nice! The plexiglass door dims are on one of the pages from my earlier link, complete w/ the layout of the notch the latch uses to 'lock' it. Saturn im blind and cant find the info for the plex over the console. can you point me to the post # Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Saturn Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Saturn im blind and cant find the info for the plex over the console. can you point me to the post # My bad, it must have been in a thread at JSII. I can re-measure today. Apologies for the confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 No worries I do the same thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Saturn Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) Here's the info from JSII: In Thunderbird's pic, the measurements for the plexiglass are 9-3/4" x 15-3/4" (w/ an extra "tab" of about an inch) I went to a local hardware store that sells/cuts this stuff and bought a piece that was 11" x 16" and cut it to size w/ a Dremel. Here's a pic I took w/ (what I thought to be) a more precise width measurement. When putting it in later I found it was very tight so I went w/ the 9-3/4" measurement. On the width, the notch for the lock starts at 4" & ends at 6" The slot is 1/2" from the edge and 1/8" wide. Might consider 3/16" to be safe. Also, the plexiglass I used is 1/8" thick. Edited October 20, 2014 by Saturn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Nice this will help alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXG/MNX Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Hi ok this is the first time i see s jagkiosk with letters on bottom part real close i had only bad small pictures that info i used to recreate my version. I am good with it only the metal plate needs to be made. But keep pn doing the restore project when possible make a document of this thread when done so the full restoration is preserved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crans Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 I realy like the look of your bottom decal but for me im trying my best for a 1:1 restore. Some things ill change like rolling the vinyl under the T Molding to protect from chipping. Glad I could help in some way. I'll see if I can get my son to take mesurments of ever part of the cabnet. You should have that spacer from the top and bottom it seems it might be the only part missing to have your back to almost original. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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