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metzger130

sd cartridge for 7800?

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2 hours ago, darryl1970 said:

Even though I installed a Pokey already, I am not adhering it until I am sure it's complete.

I'd skip the screw entirely, so you can still get in without messing up the label. Like Mitch said, the CC2 doesn't bother with a screw under the label. In my experience the CC2 shell stays solidly together during normal usage; I've never once had it accidentally pop open. The only thing the screw likely helps with is a dropping the cart from a few feet onto a hard surface.

 

If you want to trial it, remove the screw and put it somewhere for safe keeping, and continue to use the cart. When you're satisfied it works well, apply the label.

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Santa arrived early thanks to @Muddyfunster selling me his spare concerto (at cost price) 

Someone asked if there is a socket for pokey , there is 

 

I managed to find a spare pokey in my spares Atari 800. 

 

i didn't use the screw, it holds together just fine without it 

 

Concerto didn't like my micro SD card so found a really old 2gb SD card and had a quick blast on ballblazer and Pluto's.

 

@Batari is there anywhere that you would like bugs reporting?

 

IMG_20201211_155443.jpg

IMG_20201211_163400.jpg

IMG_20201211_163910.jpg

Edited by mimo
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16 minutes ago, mimo said:

IMG_20201211_163400.jpg

 

Just a heads-up...I believe the label was placed upside down. 

 

Typically, the opening of where the PCB is exposed is where the top of the label goes and the bottom part of the front label is adjacent to the end label; in this case, where the SD card is located.

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4 minutes ago, Trebor said:

Just a heads-up...I believe the label was placed upside down. 

 

Typically, the opening of where the PCB is exposed is where the top of the label goes and the bottom part of the label is adjacent to the end label; in this case, where the SD card is located.

That is correct although I've never like that since the game title on the cart can't be seen when it is inserted into the console. My '84 PPII cart has both the top and end labels upside down compared to actual released games.

 

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10 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

That is correct although I've never like that since the game title on the cart can't be seen when it is inserted into the console. 

I believe the reason for the orientation is so if you hold a cartridge in your hand, and are looking at the label right side up, sliding the cartridge then into the console would not require turning the cart around; rather, it goes from viewing the front of the label, easily inserting it directly into the console, and then the flow of reading the end label which is viewable while the cartridge is inserted.

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10 minutes ago, Trebor said:

I believe the reason for the orientation is so if you hold a cartridge in your hand, and are looking at the label right side up, sliding the cartridge then into the console would not require turning the cart around; rather, it goes from viewing the front of the label, easily inserting it directly into the console, and then the flow of reading the end label which is viewable while the cartridge is inserted.

And atari 8 bit computers are backwards.. dont ask how I know..😂

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Ahh... For some reason, I thought the Hokey was included...

Guess I'm gonna be taking that ballblazer cart apart. My A800 is keeping hers Pokey.

FWIW, I'll probably use a hole punch and punch a nice clean round hole for the screw...

 

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4 hours ago, mimo said:

Concerto didn't like my micro SD card so found a really old 2gb SD card and had a quick blast on ballblazer and Pluto's.

@batari...Earlier in the thread you mentioned using 16-32GB cards. 

Is it possible for you to provide both the sizes and the respective classes that have proven to work (best)?

Thanks in advance!

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12 minutes ago, Trebor said:

@batari...Earlier in the thread you mentioned using 16-32GB cards. 

Is it possible for you to provide both the sizes and the respective classes that have proven to work (best)?

Thanks in advance!

In my experience, over 99% of the cards out there work just as well as any other.

 

If a card doesn't work, it usually just needs cleaning and/or reformatting with the FAT or FAT32 filesystem. I've used 256MB up to 32GB without problems. I only had issues with an off-brand 128MB card, personally, that wouldn't work even after a fresh format.

 

You can even use a 64GB or greater card if you can manage to format it with FAT32. Windows won't do it, though there are third party tools that will.

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Ahh... For some reason, I thought the Hokey was included...
Guess I'm gonna be taking that ballblazer cart apart. My A800 is keeping hers Pokey.
 


How difficult is it to remove a Pokey from a Ballblazer? It’s not socketed by any chance is it? I don’t have a desoldering station, is it doable with an iron and a desoldering braid? I haven’t removed anything delicate like this before, but I’ve repaired a few Genesis 2 reset switches.

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I am happy to report that my Concerto that was part of the Saturday/Sunday 11/29 batch has now made it into the USPS system and is on its way to me. Thanks Batari!

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2 minutes ago, schnuth said:

How difficult is it to remove a Pokey from a Ballblazer? It’s not socketed by any chance is it? I don’t have a desoldering station, is it doable with an iron and a desoldering braid? I haven’t removed anything delicate like this before, but I’ve repaired a few Genesis 2 reset switches.

 

I think POKEYs are soldered in original 7800 carts like Ballblazer and Commando. I'm not going to crack open my copies to confirm that though. I will say, having pulled a POKEY from a parts 130XE to eventually get sent to Al for my copy of Bentley Bear, I would not attempt it without a desoldering iron if you don't have a reasonably good base of experience removing IC's from PCBs without causing damage. For a large chip like POKEY, you have to clean out 40 through-holes well enough to remove the chip without damaging any legs or overheating the chip die or the fine internal wires that connect the chip to the legs.

 

If you have a spare donor Ballblazer that you want to dedicate to your Concerto or Dragonfly Cart, I'd suggest finding someone local with the tools and skill to extract the chip without damage, or make arrangements to send it to someone to do it for you if possible. 

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11 minutes ago, schnuth said:

 


How difficult is it to remove a Pokey from a Ballblazer? It’s not socketed by any chance is it? I don’t have a desoldering station, is it doable with an iron and a desoldering braid? I haven’t removed anything delicate like this before, but I’ve repaired a few Genesis 2 reset switches.

If you are OK with destroying the Ballblazer cart, a heat gun or even a pocket butane torch can be used to extract the chip safely, but the board will likely be toast.

 

That said, if anyone ordering a Concerto sends me a Ballblazer cart (or just the board), I will gladly extract the POKEY for you and install the chip on your Concerto, no charge. I can't guarantee the Ballblazer board will survive the process though!

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3 minutes ago, batari said:

If you are OK with destroying the Ballblazer cart, a heat gun or even a pocket butane torch can be used to extract the chip safely, but the board will likely be toast.

 

That said, if anyone ordering a Concerto sends me a Ballblazer cart (or just the board), I will gladly extract the POKEY for you and install the chip on your Concerto, no charge. I can't guarantee the Ballblazer board will survive the process though!

This is what I did. I used a heat gun, same one I used to reflow my Original Model 60GB PS3 fat when it went YLOD.

 

Basically put the heat gun on high and wave it about 2 inches above the board where the pokey is located for about 30 seconds, then use a small flathead screwdriver or other small prying tool to pop the pokey out of the board. Make sure the pokey is face down when you heat it up, so the board shields the chip from the high heat.

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@batari nice offer.  I'm waiting on word for POKEY-One compatibility from hopefully one of the buyers.  Or just wait on your HOKEY.

Edited by Greg2600

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