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guus.assmann

Mega Speedy, the ultimate 1050 upgrade. Intrest assesment.

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5 hours ago, macsonny said:

Thank you for sharing the key information. I've found a supplier for both the CPLD and CPU for a reasonable price. I agree soldering the CPLD will be tricky (100 pins not 144 right)?

Just be careful, there's a lot of scammers and counterfeit chips out there these days.

read eg https://www.wsj.com/articles/chip-shortage-has-spawned-a-surplus-of-fraudsters-and-fake-parts-11626255002

 

In general I'd recommend ordering Xilinx CPLDs (and other parts) from the authorized distributors. Mouser, Digikey, Farnell etc all show (dummy) availability dates of in about half a year to a year, but they might get some stock a lot earlier (or maybe not, but you also don't risk paying outrageous prices or getting fakes).

Quote

I guess before I go much further, if I build the Mega Speedy and install in a 1050 am I able to flash the ROM when the Mega Speedy is in the drive or will I need to flash the ROM before I install in the drive?

No, you have to flash the ROM before (at least the config and one mega speedy slot). If you later trash the config slot or the whole flash you'll also need to remove the flash and program it with an EPROM programmer - that's the reason why we went for a socketed PLCC flash instead of TSOP.

 

so long,

 

Hias

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10 hours ago, Mclaneinc said:

One's drag soldering skills need to be Jedi quality....Flux, flux, flux....

wrangling the surface tension... 🙃

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8 hours ago, HiassofT said:

Just be careful, there's a lot of scammers and counterfeit chips out there these days.

read eg https://www.wsj.com/articles/chip-shortage-has-spawned-a-surplus-of-fraudsters-and-fake-parts-11626255002

 

In general I'd recommend ordering Xilinx CPLDs (and other parts) from the authorized distributors. Mouser, Digikey, Farnell etc all show (dummy) availability dates of in about half a year to a year, but they might get some stock a lot earlier (or maybe not, but you also don't risk paying outrageous prices or getting fakes).

No, you have to flash the ROM before (at least the config and one mega speedy slot). If you later trash the config slot or the whole flash you'll also need to remove the flash and program it with an EPROM programmer - that's the reason why we went for a socketed PLCC flash instead of TSOP.

 

so long,

 

Hias

Can no longer source SST38SF040 512k flash but can purchase the SST39SF040-70-4I-NHE.

 

Would that still work ok without board modification?

 

MCHP-S-A0001730378-1.pdf?hkey=52A5661711

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Not 100% sure where you got 38SF040 from, we used an SST 39SF040. SST39SF040-70-4C-NHE would be the full part number (industrial temperature range,I instead of C, should work fine too but isn't needed)

 

so long,

 

Hias

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Hello macsonny,

 

If need be, I'm willing and capable to program the flash-roms with a working image.

 

As for the CPLD's, make sure you can program those.

I used an old PC that still had a printer port.

I did program the CPLD before I put all other components on the PCB. It only needs a power supply and the decoupling capacitors.

If program and verify of this chip works, it's mounted ok.

And if not, you'll save a lot of time and money by not completing the ones that fail.

In my case, about 10% failed first time, even though a pro-company solderd the parts. I had to manually resolder them to get them working.

Was not too hard, just add flux and drag-solder a droplet of solder....

If that didn't work, add flux again and press-solder every individual pin, making sure not to create a short between two pins... (If that happens, just heat the solder and "bump" the pcb, so the solder will fall away.)

 

Good luck with the job at hand.

 

Just remember, the displays and the rotary encoder were also a problem on the 2nd batch.

Not sure, but I might have some displays left.

I'll have a look and let you know.

 

BR/

Guus

Edited by guus.assmann
Added a refinment to instruction
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Hallo macsonny,

 

Just checked one of my stockpiles.

I happen to have 37 pieces SA36-11SRWA displays.

And I have 40 pieces ST39SF040.

and 77 pieces 74HC125M (SMD of course)

These parts were left over (my loss for production speed).

You can buy them from me if you like, at the same price I payed for them when I bought them. (Have to look what it was...)

 

And of course, only buy them if you manage to get working PCB's. (Reccommend you start with 5 proto types, as most chineese PCB manufacturers offer series of 5 - JLCPCB do)

 

BR/

Guus

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15 hours ago, guus.assmann said:

Hallo macsonny,

 

Just checked one of my stockpiles.

I happen to have 37 pieces SA36-11SRWA displays.

And I have 40 pieces ST39SF040.

and 77 pieces 74HC125M (SMD of course)

These parts were left over (my loss for production speed).

You can buy them from me if you like, at the same price I payed for them when I bought them. (Have to look what it was...)

 

And of course, only buy them if you manage to get working PCB's. (Reccommend you start with 5 proto types, as most chineese PCB manufacturers offer series of 5 - JLCPCB do)

 

BR/

Guus

Hi Guus,

 

You really are such an amazing person to support bringing this project back to life. Thank you.

 

I initially plan on building up 5 units. I have worked on surface mount components a lot in the past so reasonably confident I'll be able to build these circuit cards up. I've sent you details to purchase 5 sets of components from you. 

 

I'm hoping you will be able to pre-flash the ICs before sending as I don't want to have to purchase a programmer if I don't need to.

 

Thanks again.

 

Sonny

 

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On 4/24/2022 at 2:09 AM, HiassofT said:

Not 100% sure where you got 38SF040 from

You posted several years ago that there was a typo in the schematic.

 

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43 minutes ago, BillC said:

You posted several years ago that there was a typo in the schematic.

Thanks a lot for refreshing my memory, I had completely forgotten about that!

 

so long,

 

Hias

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On 4/24/2022 at 10:57 PM, macsonny said:

Hi Guus,

You really are such an amazing person to support bringing this project back to life. Thank you.

I initially plan on building up 5 units. I have worked on surface mount components a lot in the past so reasonably confident I'll be able to build these circuit cards up. I've sent you details to purchase 5 sets of components from you. 

I'm hoping you will be able to pre-flash the ICs before sending as I don't want to have to purchase a programmer if I don't need to.

Thanks again.

Sonny

Let us know when you're ready to take pre-orders and what the final cost will be for a USA buyer. I may get a couple of them.

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10 hours ago, Quantum Mechanic said:

Let us know when you're ready to take pre-orders and what the final cost will be for a USA buyer. I may get a couple of them.

Well, I have 5 sets of boards currently shipped from PCB manufacturer and due here next week. I have received my Mouser order for most of the surface components, and waiting for EPROM, RAM, etc. to arrive from Netherlands. IC programmer on way. Also have a production unit that's shipped which will be my "gold standard" unit. It's all coming together. I expect to have my first unit built in the next 4-6 weeks for testing. If it works, I'll be making another 5 or so units. Price will be worked out when I've finished the first unit. I suspect the price will be more expensive than the originals as I'm buying low quantities and electronic components are super expensive right now.

 

 

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Hi @macsonny,

 

   If you are EU or UK based (issues with shipping and customs for me, unfortunately), I would be interested in buying 1 MegaSpeedy. 

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I'll let everyone know my progress and when units become available it will be first in first served basis.

 

Boards arriving this week (hopefully) and many of the components already received. Soldering will start by the end of the week as need my hot air gun to arrive in the next few days.

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Posted (edited)

Hello macsonny,

 

I've already written this about assembling PCB's.

In my opinion (and experience) a hot air gun is only suitable for removing parts. It may heat up the parts too much !

If you wany to hot air solder parts, you also need the correct kind of solder. As in solder paste, a mix of solder and flux.

And for a CPLD, you'll need a stencil to properly apply the solder to the pads.

Check on YouTube to see "drag soldering" or similar.

And for the 1206 smd and SOT parts, a pair of pliers and a small tip soldering iron will do just fine.

The only difficult part is the CPLD with 25 pins on each side.

And I've done a dozen or so by hand, especially for the proto-types. Use a good liquid flux!

 

Ordering larger quantaties will not be very price effective. My order quantaty never got above 100 pieces od the unique parts.

And SMD resistors are not too expensive anyway. Not much price difference between 100 and 1000 pieces.

 

One tip for soldering the socket for the Eeprom.

It has a plastic bottom piece that is in the way for hand soldering.

Just cut it out and you can reach all metal pins.

When using a hot air gun, this piece will melt anyway.

You"ll see what I mean once the parts arrive.

 

BR/

Guus

Edited by guus.assmann
Adding tip.

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1 hour ago, guus.assmann said:

Hello macsonny,

 

I've already written this about assembling PCB's.

In my opinion (and experience) a hot air gun is only suitable for removing parts. It may heat up the parts too much !

If you wany to hot air solder parts, you also need the correct kind of solder. As in solder paste, a mix of solder and flux.

And for a CPLD, you'll need a stencil to properly apply the solder to the pads.

Check on YouTube to see "drag soldering" or similar.

And for the 1206 smd and SOT parts, a pair of pliers and a small tip soldering iron will do just fine.

The only difficult part is the CPLD with 25 pins on each side.

And I've done a dozen or so by hand, especially for the proto-types. Use a good liquid flux!

 

Ordering larger quantaties will not be very price effective. My order quantaty never got above 100 pieces od the unique parts.

And SMD resistors are not too expensive anyway. Not much price difference between 100 and 1000 pieces.

 

One tip for soldering the socket for the Eeprom.

It has a plastic bottom piece that is in the way for hand soldering.

Just cut it out and you can reach all metal pins.

When using a hot air gun, this piece will melt anyway.

You"ll see what I mean once the parts arrive.

 

BR/

Guus

Thanks for the advice Guus. Since you have built these before I will take tour guidance.

 

I’ve done surface mount work in the past. Flux is my best friend!!!

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Hi @macsonny,

 

   Can I ask which country you are in (it's not in your profile), and customs charges etc. can cause a big price hike!

 

   Thanks!

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8 hours ago, E474 said:

Hi @macsonny,

 

   Can I ask which country you are in (it's not in your profile), and customs charges etc. can cause a big price hike!

 

   Thanks!

Sydney, Australia.

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Hello E474

 

54 minutes ago, E474 said:

Ah, ok, thanks for the info.

 

Now it's your turn to put your location in your profile. ;-)

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

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Just a little bit excited to see what turned up in the mail today...... Thank you @guss.assmann

 

Now to do some installation and testing to get confident with the unit.......

IMG_7599.jpeg

IMG_7600.jpeg

IMG_7601.jpeg

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