The Ultimate Intellivision Flashback

[IMBerzerk]

It should be pi/raspberry unless it was changed

[Byte Knight]

Hrm, I have an Ultimate conversion done by ByteKnight, but just ran in to a problem - it boots to the "Raspberry Pi Intellivision System - Computer now booting" (in lovely Intellivision font) splash screen, then goes to an all-black screen. I've connected it to an external keyboard, and trying Ctrl-Alt-F2-F8 doesn't get me to any usable text console, only C-A-F2 brings up "map: vt02 => fb0" with a blinking cursor, but it doesn't accept any inputs.

 

PM sent!

[CharonPDX]

Looks like it was the SD card/boot image. Swapped SD card with one from my other UltimateFB, and it boots fine. I'll re-write the bad SD and see if it works. If not, a new SD should set it right.

 

Although, it's going back to "configure your game pad", and I can't figure out how to configure it - it asks for more buttons than the Inty controller has, and quitting the configure just drops to command prompt...

Edited April 22, 2019 by CharonPDX

[+fdr4prez]

Looks like it was the SD card/boot image. Swapped SD card with one from my other UltimateFB, and it boots fine. I'll re-write the bad SD and see if it works. If not, a new SD should set it right.

 

Although, it's going back to "configure your game pad", and I can't figure out how to configure it - it asks for more buttons than the Inty controller has, and quitting the configure just drops to command prompt...

 

You don't need to map everything.

 

Main buttons needed:

D-PAD

Start

Select

A

B

 

Optionally, you can also do the Left Shoulder and the Right Shoulder buttons. These will act as Page Up and Page Down for jumping through the long ROM list (not that the Intv rom list is very long).

 

All others can be skipped and do not need to be mapped to the Inty controller. When asked to press a button, you can simply press, and hold down, any button that you've already assigned. After holding it down for a few seconds it will "skip" that button in the mapping process.

[CharonPDX]

D-oh! Didn't try holding down. Yep, now I'm in, thanks!

[neverending]

On 5/26/2016 at 9:59 PM, fdr4prez said:

 

I am not too familiar with EmulationStation, but the wiki says that you should normally be able to exit out of your game through whatever means the emulator has setup. If not then you can press Select+Start buttons to exit your emulator.

 

https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/EmulationStation

 

 

Which may or may not work for Inty controllers since pressing multiple keypads may or may not be read correctly due to the matrix and the adapter used, but other controllers should not have this issue.

 

If you want to wire a button (or buttons) to the GPIO, then you'd need a script that runs during boot that runs in the background to monitor the IOs. The IOs can be mapped to a keyboard press event, so if you can map the keyboard press within the emulator for specific functions, then this will work, too.

 

I have a Python script that I have running in the background and it is monitoring three IOs and I use them for quit, reset, and pause for JZINTV since my controller adapter doesn't support these functions like the UPCI does.

 

You can even add a button to an IO that when activated it will shutdown the Pi, so you aren't arbitrarily cutting off the power. If you are interested in this shutdown function, please let me know and I can send in an updated script that has this added in to it.

 

You need to install the Python GPIO support and the Python uinput support into the Pi, then the script will run.

 

You also need to get the script to run during boot, of which I forget what method I used for that. There are quite a few different methods for this out there, but I can look into what method I used for my Pi.

 

You have to rename this file into whatever name you want, and change the extension from TXT into py

 

UCPbuttons.txt 1.52 kB · 90 downloads

 

On 5/27/2016 at 3:10 PM, IMBerzerk said:

 

 

Yes, what I want to do is wire a small switch to the PI that I can configure in each emulator to act as a reset button. That little button can then be mounted under my 'reset' button on my Sears Inty and it will look factory and act factory. Pressing the button will then reset any emulator I am using, rather than pressing buttons on hand controllers. Hopefully in doing so, not loosing that ability either.

 

Make sense? I'm good with everything else. All functions work with the handsets, I have everything configured really good except this one thing.

A little late to this party, but I'd like to build an "Ultimate" Intellivision Flashback.  Here's what I have:

 

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

UPCI version 2

Intellivision Flashback w/controllers

Retropie 4.5.2 (running on Raspbian GNU/Linux 9.11 (stretch)

Emulationstation v2.8.4RP

RetroArch v1.7.6

jzintv

 

Have everything pretty much working in a regular R-Pi case, but want to transfer it into a Flashback case, and be able to use the POWER and RESET buttons.  Couple questions on that:

1. Do I need one of these to wire up to the POWER button to do a power-on/safe shut-down?  Or is there something else that might be a better option for this application?  Can I use the Flashback's existing power supply to power the Pi?  Would I splice the wires from the power supply board to the "powerblock" board's MicroUSB connector (or the Pi's MicroUSB)?
2. I have the keyboard hackfile.cfg working, with the in-game key combos working on the controller, but I would like to make the RESET button on the FB's case functional.  Can I use the Python script above to wire the RESET button to the GPIO?  If so, if anyone could give me some insight on doing that, I would very much appreciate it.  I am about as novice as it gets to all this, so any and all details are welcome and appreciated. 

I plan to isolate and reuse the existing controller ports like others on this thread have done, and reduce as much hacking up of the case as possible.

 

I am still using a keyboard in my current setup because the controllers seem to act a bit squirrely in Emulationstation.  Not sure if I'm doing something wrong there.  All I did to set them up was plug in the UPCI to the Pi and configure input within Emulationstation.  I get weird results using the keypad buttons (like the upstroke and downstrokes are separate inputs).  Example: ENTER button on controller mapped as "A" in ES, but when pressed, seems to trigger "SELECT" and a left arrow push.  D-pad seems to work normally though.

 

Appreciate this forum and what all you guys have done to figure this stuff out.

[mr_me]

2 hours ago, neverending said:

...

I get weird results using the keypad buttons (like the upstroke and downstrokes are separate inputs).  Example: ENTER button on controller mapped as "A" in ES, but when pressed, seems to trigger "SELECT" and a left arrow push.

...

This is due to the way the intellivision controller is designed.  Each button in the controller connects two circuits to ground, like a double pole switch.  However, button presses are not reliable and sometimes one circuit is connected before the other.  In the case of keypad enter, one of those circuits is the same as pressing disc left.

 

 

2 hours ago, neverending said:

Can I use the Python script above to wire the RESET button to the GPIO? 

Looking at fdr4prez' script, I can see he's using gpio 26 as keyboard 'P', gpio 21 as 'Q', and gpio 20 as 'R'.  You can modify it as needed and you'd also have to associate the key with the reset action in the jzintv hackfile.  There's lots of examples out there that do something similar; gpio as keyboard input using uinput.

Edited November 14, 2019 by mr_me

[+intvsteve]

Is the Pi 3 B pretty much the same as the 2 B, but with built-in wireless and Bluetooth and better processor?

 

When I built mine (used a 2 B), I hooked up power and reset to pins on the RPi board.  You have to solder on a header for the reset switch on the Pi - not sure they kept that for the 3. I used the power connector on the original flashback and ran wires to the GPIO pins on the RPi to power it. I did get a beefier power supply, though.

 

Unfortunately, I didn't take any useful pictures at that stage of the assembly. IIRC what I did was keep the power/reset board that was in there, but added a header for them to that board so I could just use some jumper wires to connect everything to the RPi. In fact, if I wanted, I could remove the Pi and everything and restore the Flashback to what it was - with a couple extra holes in the back of the case.

 

[pimpmaul69]

4 hours ago, neverending said:

 

A little late to this party, but I'd like to build an "Ultimate" Intellivision Flashback.  Here's what I have:

 

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

UPCI version 2

Intellivision Flashback w/controllers

Retropie 4.5.2 (running on Raspbian GNU/Linux 9.11 (stretch)

Emulationstation v2.8.4RP

RetroArch v1.7.6

jzintv

 

Have everything pretty much working in a regular R-Pi case, but want to transfer it into a Flashback case, and be able to use the POWER and RESET buttons.  Couple questions on that:

1. Do I need one of these to wire up to the POWER button to do a power-on/safe shut-down?  Or is there something else that might be a better option for this application?  Can I use the Flashback's existing power supply to power the Pi?  Would I splice the wires from the power supply board to the "powerblock" board's MicroUSB connector (or the Pi's MicroUSB)?
2. I have the keyboard hackfile.cfg working, with the in-game key combos working on the controller, but I would like to make the RESET button on the FB's case functional.  Can I use the Python script above to wire the RESET button to the GPIO?  If so, if anyone could give me some insight on doing that, I would very much appreciate it.  I am about as novice as it gets to all this, so any and all details are welcome and appreciated. 

I plan to isolate and reuse the existing controller ports like others on this thread have done, and reduce as much hacking up of the case as possible.

 

I am still using a keyboard in my current setup because the controllers seem to act a bit squirrely in Emulationstation.  Not sure if I'm doing something wrong there.  All I did to set them up was plug in the UPCI to the Pi and configure input within Emulationstation.  I get weird results using the keypad buttons (like the upstroke and downstrokes are separate inputs).  Example: ENTER button on controller mapped as "A" in ES, but when pressed, seems to trigger "SELECT" and a left arrow push.  D-pad seems to work normally though.

 

Appreciate this forum and what all you guys have done to figure this stuff out.

If you get a controller board from @byteknight ‘s ultimate flashback interface boards you wont have to hack the original board at all. 

[+fdr4prez]

6 hours ago, neverending said:

 

A little late to this party

It is never too late to join the party 

 

 

6 hours ago, neverending said:

 

Have everything pretty much working in a regular R-Pi case, but want to transfer it into a Flashback case, and be able to use the POWER and RESET buttons.  Couple questions on that:

1. Do I need one of these to wire up to the POWER button to do a power-on/safe shut-down?  Or is there something else that might be a better option for this application?  Can I use the Flashback's existing power supply to power the Pi?  Would I splice the wires from the power supply board to the "powerblock" board's MicroUSB connector (or the Pi's MicroUSB)?

 

I like to use the Mausberry power circuit for the ON/OFF button, but petrockblock unit is great, too.  Either should be OK for you.

 

6 hours ago, neverending said:

1. I have the keyboard hackfile.cfg working, with the in-game key combos working on the controller, but I would like to make the RESET button on the FB's case functional.  Can I use the Python script above to wire the RESET button to the GPIO?  If so, if anyone could give me some insight on doing that, I would very much appreciate it.  I am about as novice as it gets to all this, so any and all details are welcome and appreciated. 

 

3 hours ago, mr_me said:

Looking at fdr4prez' script, I can see he's using gpio 26 as keyboard 'P', gpio 21 as 'Q', and gpio 20 as 'R'.  You can modify it as needed and you'd also have to associate the key with the reset action in the jzintv hackfile.  There's lots of examples out there that do something similar; gpio as keyboard input using uinput.

 

I don't think I can edit that old post, but that old script uses two GPIO for individual reset and quit buttons that ByteKnight was requesting help with.

 

I'll need to look around on my PC for this, but I've rewritten my script to use a single GPIO wired from the existing button on the case and set it up to use the default keyboard keys of jzintv for quit and reset.  But if I can't find it, then it will be easy enough to recreate.

 

If you do a momentary press of the reset button then it will reset the game, and if you hold the button down for a bit longer then it will quit the game.

 

@neverending - please send me a PM and can help you

 

and I guess it would be nice of me to post the updated script at some point 

 

[+fdr4prez]

6 hours ago, neverending said:

I plan to isolate and reuse the existing controller ports like others on this thread have done, and reduce as much hacking up of the case as possible.

 

 

2 hours ago, pimpmaul69 said:

If you get a controller board from @byteknight ‘s ultimate flashback interface boards you wont have to hack the original board at all. 

 

@neverending - The UPCI is a good adapter, but as pimpmaul mentioned there is a Ultimate Flashback Interface board that exists that is designed to mount into the Flashback units, so no hacking involved.

 

The UPCI and the UFBI are basically the same adapter, but the UFBI is designed to mount in the case in place of the original Flashback board.

 

If you have the budget, maybe you can keep the UPCI for your computer (or another project) and get a UFBI for this project.

 

 

 

 

[+intvsteve]

Yeah -- ByteKnight's board is awesome.

 

Here's a pic of the modded power / reset board from the Flashback itself. Well, "mod" is a bit strong -- just disconnected the power from the built-in board, put headers on it, and put female jumpers onto the wires from the existing board. Since this unit already was "defective" (the composite video wire had disconnected from the main board), I put connectors on the main board and male connectors on the A/V cable so it could be reassembled if desired.

 

 

The headers aren't 0.1" standard distance so they're kind of mish-mashed in there. Not that pretty, but it works.

[neverending]

15 hours ago, fdr4prez said:

I like to use the Mausberry power circuit for the ON/OFF button, but petrockblock unit is great, too.  Either should be OK for you.

Looks like they have three different options, a MicroUSB, GPIO, and USB interfaces.  Any one you would suggest over the other?  Seems like I'd have to figure something out to stabilize the MicroUSB option on the Pi since it looks like its only held together by the plug.  Otherwise not sure if there is an advantage from an electronics standpoint of one over another for this application.

 

15 hours ago, fdr4prez said:

I'll need to look around on my PC for this, but I've rewritten my script to use a single GPIO wired from the existing button on the case and set it up to use the default keyboard keys of jzintv for quit and reset.  But if I can't find it, then it will be easy enough to recreate.

 

If you do a momentary press of the reset button then it will reset the game, and if you hold the button down for a bit longer then it will quit the game.

That sounds perfect!... PM sent!

 

19 hours ago, mr_me said:

This is due to the way the intellivision controller is designed.  Each button in the controller connects two circuits to ground, like a double pole switch.  However, button presses are not reliable and sometimes one circuit is connected before the other.  In the case of keypad enter, one of those circuits is the same as pressing disc left.

So do you guys use an external keyboard or other game controller to navigate in ES?  I do have a logitech wireless controller hooked up (added some NES and a Playstation games), so I suppose I could just use that in ES if need be.

21 hours ago, intvsteve said:

Is the Pi 3 B pretty much the same as the 2 B, but with built-in wireless and Bluetooth and better processor?

Also have a Bluetooth keyboard laying around I could add (Pi 3 B does have Bluetooth).

 

15 hours ago, fdr4prez said:

The UPCI is a good adapter, but as pimpmaul mentioned there is a Ultimate Flashback Interface board that exists that is designed to mount into the Flashback units, so no hacking involved.

 

The UPCI and the UFBI are basically the same adapter, but the UFBI is designed to mount in the case in place of the original Flashback board.

Well, crumbs... I actually did see that as I was reading through this thread, but thought I would need to buy that and the UFBI board... guess I should have read more carefully.  Could not contain my excitement for this project and spent more that I probably should have already, so unfortunately this isn't going to be in the cards.

 

Thanks guys for all the replies, glad I found this forum!!

[+intvsteve]

7 minutes ago, neverending said:

Thanks guys for all the replies, glad I found this forum!!

Lots of great people here. Always amazed at how helpful they are!

 

FWIW, here's a partial-assembly picture from mine from last year - only a little less late to the party than you!  I used one USB port for wireless network and another for a wireless keyboard. I use the keyboard when necessary to navigate, but usually can do it with the Intellivision controller.

 

 

You can see the wireless network nub in there. The keyboard one is hidden by the cable that goes to ByteKnight's board. I added a USB A female port and HDMI port on the back panel, and managed to finagle an A/V port on from the Pi out output to the A/V spot already notched in the unit.

 

You'll probably use SSH to do any serious manipulation of files anyway, so the wireless keyboard is a nice-to-have.

 

Do you plan to need access to the SD slot? That's something I decided to skip. I don't really have any plans to need to swap that out. If it ever does become necessary it's a pretty quick job to get back into the thing.

[neverending]

49 minutes ago, intvsteve said:

Lots of great people here. Always amazed at how helpful they are!

 

FWIW, here's a partial-assembly picture from mine from last year - only a little less late to the party than you!  I used one USB port for wireless network and another for a wireless keyboard. I use the keyboard when necessary to navigate, but usually can do it with the Intellivision controller.

 

 

You can see the wireless network nub in there. The keyboard one is hidden by the cable that goes to ByteKnight's board. I added a USB A female port and HDMI port on the back panel, and managed to finagle an A/V port on from the Pi out output to the A/V spot already notched in the unit.

 

You'll probably use SSH to do any serious manipulation of files anyway, so the wireless keyboard is a nice-to-have.

 

Do you plan to need access to the SD slot? That's something I decided to skip. I don't really have any plans to need to swap that out. If it ever does become necessary it's a pretty quick job to get back into the thing.

That is a super clean install, hoping I can get mine to that level.  I might copy what you did with the HDMI and USB ports, very slick.  Won't need the wireless dongles since the Pi 3 B has Bluetooth and wireless network built in.  I don't think I'll add access to the SD.  Can't see needing to get to it that often.

 

How do you guys fasten the Pi board to the housing?

[SegaLou]

anyone want to sell?

[+intvsteve]

38 minutes ago, neverending said:

How do you guys fasten the Pi board to the housing?

That's the dirty little secret! It isn't! (At least for my setup. YMMV.)

 

With the standoffs, it's just right and wedges in there snugly. I don't remember if I actually needed to add anything else.... The cables also act as stabilizers as they tend to fill things up in there a little bit, too.

 

Beware - pictures!

 

Doubled up on the standoffs. Can't recall the exact height. Probably have way more than I'll ever need so if you need some, PM me.

 

Looks like a weird alien. I keep expecting it to start walking away. The key for my layout was to install this guy upside down.

 

Here's a shot before the cables are connected. It took some careful measuring and searching to find right-angle HDMI and A/V mini plugs that can "nest". The HDMI right angle will "hug" that post where the screw holds the shell together, offering some stability.

 

Cable hug! The HDMI and A/V right angle plugs have just enough space for that post. The yellow wire goes to the reset line. The red / black for +5V and GND are obscured, but you can see in other pics.

 

Here's a close-up of the A/V plug. Had to work that guy with an X-Acto to get it in there, and it's a really tight fit. It just clears the GPIO header enough to be comfortable. You can get pretty cheap Zune cables on Amazon (or you could a year ago) that are the same pinout as the RPi A/V connector. That way, this guy is ready for HDMI or composite when  you visit your weird uncle's place.

 

In closing, two final glamour shots.

 

Here's the back panel. That fugly scratch next to the USB port happened literally on the very last tweak to get the cut just right.  I wish I could've figured out how to get the USB and HDMI connectors mounted without the screws.

 

Font view. Slightly off-center for the 'auto-detect' button for ByteKnight's board. Some installs clip that button down and don't expose it.

[+fdr4prez]

7 hours ago, neverending said:

Looks like they have three different options, a MicroUSB, GPIO, and USB interfaces.  Any one you would suggest over the other?  Seems like I'd have to figure something out to stabilize the MicroUSB option on the Pi since it looks like its only held together by the plug.  Otherwise not sure if there is an advantage from an electronics standpoint of one over another for this application.

 

For Mausberry, I've used both the "direct-plug micro-usb" version and the "2-pin spring header" version.  It all depends on personal preference.

 

They say that going directly to the GPIO with power will bypass the Pi's power circuit, so it is slightly unsafe, but if you have confidence with your power supply then there should be no worries.  And it is quite common for people to go directly to GPIO with the incoming power.

 

7 hours ago, neverending said:

That sounds perfect!... PM sent!

 

So do you guys use an external keyboard or other game controller to navigate in ES? 

 

You can do that, but generally a mapping for the controller is something like this:

Disc = dpad up/down/left/right

A = upper side button

B = pick a lower side button

Start and Select can be set to Enter and Clear, as desired

Left shoulder = keypad 2

Right shoulder = keypad 0

 

The shoulder buttons function as a page up and down when scrolling the ROM list, and the Inty list isn't very long so sometimes I don't bother setting these.   If you need to go up/down quickly thru the rom list just hold the up/down button and it will quickly scroll.

 

I have one project that uses keypads 2=up, 6=right, 4=left and 8=down and the disc isn't used for ES navigation at all.  I actually kinda like this method.

 

 

7 hours ago, neverending said:

I do have a logitech wireless controller hooked up (added some NES and a Playstation games), so I suppose I could just use that in ES if need be.

Also have a Bluetooth keyboard laying around I could add (Pi 3 B does have Bluetooth).

 

Please take fair notice that my script for the reset button will work for jzintv, and I can get it working for coolcv (colecovision) and the standalone Stella (atari2600) emulators. 

 

This script will not be detected by any "lr" libretro emulator - which is most all other emulators in Retropie

 

7 hours ago, neverending said:

 

Well, crumbs... I actually did see that as I was reading through this thread, but thought I would need to buy that and the UFBI board... guess I should have read more carefully.  Could not contain my excitement for this project and spent more that I probably should have already, so unfortunately this isn't going to be in the cards.

No worries.  I like it when someone is willing to do the hands-on work to get their project working.

 

 

[Byte Knight]

It's great to see you guys take this project to the "next level" - nice job!!

 

My 8 GB microSD card image for the Ultimate Flashback, compatible with the Pi 2 & 3, is available here for download.

[IMBerzerk]

@neverending I have two Retropie units at home.  One using a Retroflag Sega Genesis as a shell, the other is an old Sears Super Video Arcade.

 

I can help you with a lot of stuff with ES.  I have 27 system running on mine including Daphne, PlayStation, Vectrex and Commodore 64 / Amiga 

 

Just ask.  ?

[IMBerzerk]

6 hours ago, Byte Knight said:

It's great to see you guys take this project to the "next level" - nice job!!

 

My 8 GB microSD card image for the Ultimate Flashback, compatible with the Pi 2 & 3, is available here for download.

Dude .. you started my passion for Retropie!!

[IMBerzerk]

I agree with fdr4prz, I used a Mausberry on/off circuit as well.  Best was as it prevents you from crashing the card.  If it doesn't shut off properly, you'll corrupt the image 

 

He also helped me a few years ago with his original script for my reset switch so I could use it with Jzintv.  It works great!  You just have to set it to a letter (r) and add it into the hackfile as a reset command.

Edited November 16, 2019 by IMBerzerk

[+fdr4prez]

19 minutes ago, IMBerzerk said:

I agree with fdr4prz, I used a Mausberry on/off circuit as well.  Best was as it prevents you from crashing the card.  If it doesn't shut off properly, you'll corrupt the image 

 

He also helped me a few years ago with his original script for my reset switch so I could use it with Jzintv.  It works great!  You just have to set it to a letter (r) and add it into the hackfile as a reset command.

 

I should send you my newest script.  No need to set it to R and no changes to the hackfile.

 

It uses the default jzintv keyboard settings.

[IMBerzerk]

sure!  Sounds great!  

 

jamrom2 <at> yahoo.com

 

I'd be happy to give it a try and put it to permanent use.  I need to build a portable INTY anyway.  The Retroflag Sega unit I have is great, but I can't play any Intellivision games on it.

 

JR

[IMBerzerk]

How about we start a new thread about building these units... I don't want to rob any business from Byteknight... but guys like me and a few others that are DYI's and like to tinker could learn a lot from all the stuff we post.

 

Building a good Retropie unit is all about the right stuff you put in it, and how to configure all the individual Emulators.  It's definitely challenging, but highly rewarding.