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Lynx LCD Replacement/VGA-Out by McWill


Jungsi

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Send message to McWill http://atariage.com/forums/user/38984-mcwill/

 

It is 95 Euro plus shipping, I don't know if he accepts anything beside Paypal.

 

If you're not good with soldering iron, you could ask for someone to do the mod. The mod service usually costs extra, I am guessing $50 or so on account of so many tiny pieces that needs to be removed, whether it needs a recap as well (mandatory, kit is about $10 shipped from places like console5) and whether you want optional VGA port or not.

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Anyway update I finished the rest of the LCD mod on my Game Gear. It now has VGA port.

 

I forgot to take picture of my wiring work before I closed it up. After looking around my console, I decided port on the side won't work because it's curved and would be a bit tricky to get even cut plus it's also hard to get mounting screws secured near the seam between front and back half. I ended up having it stick out of the back near the converter mounting screw, it just fits if I ever needed a Master Gear converter and VGA display.

 

 

QXVQxgL.jpg

 

One thing I noticed, I can't change between internal LCD and VGA on the spot, so I needed to set the dial high for VGA or low for internal LCD.

 

VGA default mode: (full with scanline)

64rDUi4.jpg

 

VGA second mode (full without scanline)

PUyIuzI.jpg

 

VGA third mode (reduced with scanline)

yzbVfy1.jpg

 

and last one (reduced no scanline)

Zomhhqc.jpg

 

SMS games also looked fine in full screen:

Tqg4CO1.jpg

0rp3YID.jpg

 

I did not take the other 2 SMS modes, it was tiny. Maybe the tiny mode would be fine if you were playing on a 100" display and didn't like Tetris-esque blocks.

 

One thing I noticed was that in scanline mode, there were varying brightness level on horizontal lines. I don't know if this is the way the mod was done or if I need to recheck my wiring?

 

I used an old NEC VGA panel that I found at a Goodwill for about $5. It had a full glass front which meant easy to clean. Most LCD has bezel that can trap dust and grimes in the corner.

Edited by 7800fan
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New guy here, this is my first post.

 

I'd love to get my hands on one of these kits. Does it work for the original Lynx and the Lynx II as I have both. I just pulled them out of storage and they both still work, but the screens look kinda washed out. I think they have sat without being turned on for over 10 years!

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I got my Lynx-II Mod last week and installed it this weekend. Despite my rusty soldering skills, everything worked the first time I powered it up. The improvement is amazing.

 

I would recommend removing the LCD ribbon cable connector before trying to solder the wires to the Lync board for the LCD. It makes it much easier. I wasted about an hour trying to do it before giving up and removing the connector. Also, a Dremmel tool works great for cutting the opening for the VGA connector.

 

I made a little slide show with some pictures of the upgrade process and some before and after images of the screen:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61XoXEA5vbE

 

I'm very happy with this kit and had a lot of fun installing it.

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New guy here, this is my first post.

 

I'd love to get my hands on one of these kits. Does it work for the original Lynx and the Lynx II as I have both. I just pulled them out of storage and they both still work, but the screens look kinda washed out. I think they have sat without being turned on for over 10 years!

Yes of course it works with both LYNX :grin:

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I have 3 working Lynxes, one modded with LCD some months ago, one that will stay stock, and one that had been giving me issues on and off, Sometimes it runs fine, sometimes it display garbage and noise after a while, and somethings I get nothing. Today the incorrigible Lynx decided to throw me a new one: flashing backlight. On one side it's flickering like maybe it's about to burn out. So I used the spare LCD from the first one I modded and when I put it together and tested it, it came up for a few seconds then the distinctive stink of smoke being released and the backlight went out. It was coming from near the HV circuit that drives CFL and now it won't light up. I can still see image if I shined bright light.

 

Anyone got about $150 to donate to me so I can buy a second LCD kit to fix this one? :D I think all of the problems I've had to now is due to HV circuit failing and finally burned out.

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The Lynx II LCD was a surprisingly easy mod. The Lynx PCB has throughhole components and is quite sturdy. I'd recommend a temp controlled iron and solder wick for removing parts. I had it set at 300C most of the time but went up to 325-350C for ground plane pins and removing the copper plate (I have the model with a copper plate covering the entire PCB).

 

Everything is fairly generously spaced and it's easy to solder wires without causing shorts. The mod itself is, of course, of very high quality.

 

I'm going to attempt a Game Gear mod next, which I expect to be a bit more challenging, given surface mounting and being overall more fragile...

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This is my tutorial video in order to install new LCD monitor that I will Received a few days ago.

VIDEO LINK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NG9TNKmcv84

 

The monitor is marvellous...thanks Mc Will and thanks for your advice and professional job.

I waited for it for many years. I did not think anyone could achieve this...THANKS A LOT Mc Will :-)

if you want to make a gift to me for this tutorial...subscribe my youtube channel ;-)

Regard for Italy

Daniele

Edited by edstarink
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The Lynx II LCD was a surprisingly easy mod. The Lynx PCB has throughhole components and is quite sturdy. I'd recommend a temp controlled iron and solder wick for removing parts. I had it set at 300C most of the time but went up to 325-350C for ground plane pins and removing the copper plate (I have the model with a copper plate covering the entire PCB).

 

Everything is fairly generously spaced and it's easy to solder wires without causing shorts. The mod itself is, of course, of very high quality.

 

I'm going to attempt a Game Gear mod next, which I expect to be a bit more challenging, given surface mounting and being overall more fragile...

 

Game Gear mod finished, and as I expected it was a bit more involved. I did the 1 ASIC which means replacing some tiny SMD components. Ugh. Anyway, it works fine and looks great!

 

I found soldering to the edge connector was a lot easier if I painted some solder flux on it and added some solder. The only thing I don't feel entirely good about is that TP10 came loose when I soldered to it. I still have continuity to the ASIC pin but it feels a bit flakey.

 

Thank you for this mod, McWill! Of 3 Game Gears I have, none had a good LCD, either dead pixel dust or an entire 3rd of the screen black.

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This is my tutorial video in order to install new LCD monitor that I will Received a few days ago.

VIDEO LINK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NG9TNKmcv84

 

The monitor is marvellous...thanks Mc Will and thanks for your advice and professional job.

I waited for it for many years. I did not think anyone could achieve this...THANKS A LOT Mc Will :-)

if you want to make a gift to me for this tutorial...subscribe my youtube channel ;-)

Regard for Italy

Daniele

 

Can you recheck Youtube link? When I clicked on it, it leads to my personal account with list of video I've uploaded, I think the link got messed up.

 

 

Game Gear mod finished, and as I expected it was a bit more involved. I did the 1 ASIC which means replacing some tiny SMD components. Ugh. Anyway, it works fine and looks great!

 

I found soldering to the edge connector was a lot easier if I painted some solder flux on it and added some solder. The only thing I don't feel entirely good about is that TP10 came loose when I soldered to it. I still have continuity to the ASIC pin but it feels a bit flakey.

 

Thank you for this mod, McWill! Of 3 Game Gears I have, none had a good LCD, either dead pixel dust or an entire 3rd of the screen black.

 

Hot glue gun is your friend. Once you got wires soldered down, secured, and no bridge or frayed strand, and in correct spot a drop will secure the wire and prevent it from breaking off or pulling traces off. I did it only because the LCD connectors were pretty thin and tightly spaced.

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Just a quick question guys: I have some 32 AWG flat cables from many many years ago on my hands right now. Would that be ok to use them for the lcd mod? They seem extremely thin, I am afraid they won't be able to handle the current flow, or you think they should be ok? What is the gauge size (AWG number) that you have used for this mod? I don't want to end up with overheating/ melted cables in the Lynx, but also don't really want to go and buy new wires if these would be fine. Thanks for any advice.

Edited by zoltan
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Hi!

 

I just recently got my modded gg from mcwill and its simply amazing!. But now everything has gone bad :(

 

 

My game gear shuts itself off a few seconds after starting it.

No video no sound.. No power.

It worked well yesterday but after playing a couple hours it shut off. I checked the batteries and they felt hot so i replaced them with other ones. Then the gg worked and it seemed to have fixed the issue.

 

But today it shut off again just seconds after starting a game. Happens to all my games too.

 

Im very sad and a bit frustrated as i was looking forward to enjoying this more than a few hours.

 

Anyone know what has happend?

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Hi!

 

I just recently got my modded gg from mcwill and its simply amazing!. But now everything has gone bad :(

 

 

My game gear shuts itself off a few seconds after starting it.

No video no sound.. No power.

It worked well yesterday but after playing a couple hours it shut off. I checked the batteries and they felt hot so i replaced them with other ones. Then the gg worked and it seemed to have fixed the issue.

 

But today it shut off again just seconds after starting a game. Happens to all my games too.

 

Im very sad and a bit frustrated as i was looking forward to enjoying this more than a few hours.

 

Anyone know what has happend?

 

It's probably bad capacitors... I was mid way through my mod - got to the stage where everything was properly connected and ready to go, turn the GG on and all I get if I'm lucky is a totally white screen, but most of the time it's a "video" black screen (i.e. the screen is working but it's getting nothing but black video) then it shuts it's self off very quickly.

 

I'm not really sure what I want to do next, so I've shelved it for a while. I may go back and replace the caps myself, or alternatively, I may buy a second hand GG that's been recapped then do the mod again - at least the wires are all cut to length!.

 

It's a bit of a bummer, but old capacitors are a real P.I.T.A.

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Just finished installing Game Gear mod on my VA1 GG. Everything is running great now (I was even able to put a PAL mod switch on the system as well to play my PAL master system games :) ). I have to say you designed this mod very nicely from terminal placement to fitting around the game gear board. Freaking smart! I love this screen. Everything is great. Thank you so much for your help and hard work. Cheers.

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