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Lynx LCD Replacement/VGA-Out by McWill


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Thanks for the heads up Crosbow, should make things a little easier. I don't trust my soldering skills that much, though I have a friend who is pretty competent, he successfully installed the GG mod himself. I'd trust him to install it on the Lynx.

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Most of us including McWill, put it bottom center.0127fbce81bd79c91395727f73e9a6f0.jpg

 

Interesting,

 

when I looked at this, the case halves on my GG simply aren't wide enough to accomdate the VGA out connector that Console5 included with my kit. But I will take another look at it. I actually wired up everything in preperation for the VGA out minus the connector and wiring to the top of the LCD PCB. But the rest of the stuff with the backlight control etc is in place. In fact I though my screen wasn't working at first because when I powered it on the screen flashed and then I had audio but no video. It was because the contrast wheel was turned down and once I turned it just more than half way, the screen came to life. So...yeah... slight scary moment there at first.

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Okay, so I got my VGA connector mounted in last night. I took a slightly different approach on the where it was placed. I too placed it on the back half shell in the lower portion. But placed it on the left hand side as you hold the GG in your hands. I did this because I added pin headers and disconnects to my ribbon cable I have attached for the VGA out to make it more serviceable in the future should it be needed. Due to the brass secure post for rechargable battery packs that is in that middle lower part of the case, it is in the way of what I wanted to do with the wiring. It also allows me to minimize the wiring lengths needed and keep it tidy inside. Here is a pic of the completed installation. I used kynar solid copper small gauge for most the connections that go from the LCD pcb to points on the main PCB with the exception of power and ground which, I always use a decent gauge wire for in projects like this. I stuck with ribbon cable for the LCD connections because it is more durable to stress and bending than the solid core kynar would have been. If I do this in the future, I'm going to check the contact points on the back side of the PCB to see if those could be used instead of the thin fingers where the old LCD was attached to. That would keep all the wiring or at least most of it, to one side of the PCB and would allow most of the work to be done with the PCB already held back in place inside the front half of the case. I'm very pleased with the overall results though, that wasn't a surprise given how excellent the Lynx LED/LCD mod looks!

 

 

post-6-0-36177000-1524153329_thumb.jpg

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I can't wait to get back home and test out the Sega Gamegear and both Atari Lynx screens. Any word on things like a Gameboy Color replacement? The front lights just don't work nearly as well as I would hope... with or without OSAKA LOCA.

Will coming soon :grin:

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What an ingenious product. I've checked the internet a bit and figured direct to the source might be best. What's the correct way to go about getting a Lynx II kit?

Thank you ;-)

You can send me a PM or order from:

 

www.console5.com

www.retromodding.com

www.dragonbox.de

etc.

 

Cheers,

Marco

Edited by McWill
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Hi Everyone,

 

I have a question about prepping for the McWill Screen. Please note I am experienced in soldering. Your comments are appreciated.

I just received my McWill screen and prepped for install.
#1. I plugged in a game with the OEM AC adapter and played for a few minutes to be sure the Lynx was working fine.
I disassembled and removed the required components and then I plugged in my Lynx AC Adapter to test for 5V at VCC and there's nothing.
I got to thinking, if this point is how you power the screen, don't have to push the power button to get the 5 V?
If we have to push the power button, I think the Lynx wont turn on without a game. This a few steps that might be required, not sure. Or something else is suddenly wrong within a few minutes after testing.
Are there some steps here that are required that are not covered? because some of the steps seem to be missing from the McWill guide and the videos out there.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated. My lynx is sitting on the bench until I can verify 5V.
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Hi Everyone,

 

I have a question about prepping for the McWill Screen. Please note I am experienced in soldering. Your comments are appreciated.

I just received my McWill screen and prepped for install.

#1. I plugged in a game with the OEM AC adapter and played for a few minutes to be sure the Lynx was working fine.

I disassembled and removed the required components and then I plugged in my Lynx AC Adapter to test for 5V at VCC and there's nothing.

I got to thinking, if this point is how you power the screen, don't have to push the power button to get the 5 V?

If we have to push the power button, I think the Lynx wont turn on without a game. This a few steps that might be required, not sure. Or something else is suddenly wrong within a few minutes after testing.

Are there some steps here that are required that are not covered? because some of the steps seem to be missing from the McWill guide and the videos out there.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated. My lynx is sitting on the bench until I can verify 5V.

Yes, the Lynx will not turn on without a game inserted. The game completes the circuit.
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Thanks. I feel a bit silly. I have not played my Lynx in a while and forgot you need a game in it. So I plugged in the ac adapter, reconnected the switch ribbon cable, plugged in a game, Game music started (California games is good for this test,). Check my VCC and yup +5V so I'm moving on to get the mcWill screen installed today.

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Hey everyone, I just saw this photo. Is this the way most people are doing it? Remove the connector and add the wires ? Makes sense. I had not see anyone on youtube do it that way but it makes perfect sense.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2018/post-34298-0-29374800-1520704942.jpeg

 

As long as your wok is neat and it works it really doesn't matter how you do it. I remove that connector because the connector is no longer used for anything but when I do xbox internal HDMI converter mod for example I do not remove the original A/V connector on the Xbox as it can still be used so I just solder the wires to the pins(on the ones where connecting wires I desolder the pins first and add fresh solder) on the back side of the board so both can be used.

Edited by SignGuy81
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Thank! I completed my 1st McWill screen install last night and I love it ! I have a couple more Lynx units so I'm refining my process on paper before doing another one.

 

Q: Do you typically replace the (5v regulation) power components even though they have not yet failed and the recap the Lynx as a precaution?

 

My Lynx units all work fine although I did have a Lynx die on me about 10 years ago which is why a bought a few lynx units.

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Q: Do you typically replace the (5v regulation) power components even though they have not yet failed and the recap the Lynx as a precaution?

Yes and Yes!

 

I honestly believe that recapping the lynx and game gear both should just be required at this point in time given how long those originals have been in there already. In the case of the GG, you really must as it will eventually develop further problems down the road when the original caps leak all over and start corroding the traces.

 

And since the LCD kit from Console 5 I believe already comes with the replacement components for the +5, I go ahead and install them as well.

Edited by -^Cro§Bow^-
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Thank! I completed my 1st McWill screen install last night and I love it ! I have a couple more Lynx units so I'm refining my process on paper before doing another one.

 

Q: Do you typically replace the (5v regulation) power components even though they have not yet failed and the recap the Lynx as a precaution?

 

My Lynx units all work fine although I did have a Lynx die on me about 10 years ago which is why a bought a few lynx units.

For my LCD testings I always used a standard LYNX-II without 5-Volt mod and after turning it on and off for about 2000 times the LYNX was "fried", because the voltage diode got broken.

 

I always recommend the 5-Volt mod, because the original power circuit is a ticking time bomb.

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Hey everyone, I just saw this photo. Is this the way most people are doing it? Remove the connector and add the wires ? Makes sense. I had not see anyone on youtube do it that way but it makes perfect sense.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2018/post-34298-0-29374800-1520704942.jpeg

It’s how I always do it.
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi there. I recently purchased the McWill Lynx mod and had it installed. The screen replacement is incredible and even more impressive than the Game Gear version. However, I am running into an issue with the VGA output and I'm hoping someone might know the cause.

 

When I hook the Lynx up to a ViewSonic CRT monitor, the picture is fantastic. However, when I hook it up to my Sony PVM-20L5, the image is much darker with artifacts. I've tried two separate approaches for combining the sync. The first was to connect the Lynx up through an Extron 203rxi. The second approach was through a Behar Bros. Kenzei through a Sync Strike and finally the Extron 203. Both approaches produce the same distorted output.

 

You can see a comparison here: https://imgur.com/a/cEfM7sc

 

Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this? Thank you for your time.

 

Best regards,

Steve

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Ordered a screen replacement from Dragonbox along with a cap/diode/mosfet replacement kit, might as well go the whole hog I thought. Looking forward to trying it out! Got a couple of non-working Lynx 2's as well, will see if I can salvage either of them...

 

Super impressed with everyone else's results and the videos on YouTube, it really helps to highlight how far ahead of its time this hardware was! (and how let down it was by the screen...)

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The LYNX mod only provides VGA (RGB with H+VSync - 640x480 @ 60 Hz). I guess the 1st TV accepts VGA in, the other TVs not.

The GG mod also provides NTSC @ 30 Hz in TV mode.

 

Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I would expect the PVM to have trouble by default with an RGBHV signal, but both the Kenzei and 203rxi should be combining the sync into an RGBS signal. My PVM is also a multi-format monitor, so it supports 480p. Does anyone have a similar setup who has had success?

 

Thanks,

Steve

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