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Lynx LCD Replacement/VGA-Out by McWill

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perhaps you could add a quick cross reference for the 14 - 58 pins to clk_a1 to clk_a3

 

or am i reading it right as this:

 

CLK_12 = 14 ***

D1 = 16

D0 = 18

TPR = TPR

CL2 = 31

CLK_A2 = 36

D3 = 39

D2 = 41

CLK_A3 = 58

 

if so then ok, else we need a bit more info :)

That's right (*** except CLK_12 is CLK_A1). There are 66 pins on the LYNX PCB. On the LYNX mod there are pin 1 and 2 on the left and pin 65 and 66 on the right.

If you lay one on top of the other and install the mod with the 4 added screws, you have no other feasibility to solder to another pin.

 

 

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That's right (*** except CLK_12 is CLK_A1). There are 66 pins on the LYNX PCB. On the LYNX mod there are pin 1 and 2 on the left and pin 65 and 66 on the right.

If you lay one on top of the other and install the mod with the 4 added screws, you have no other feasibility to solder to another pin.

 

 

oops my bad!!

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Shiiiit!

 

I've lifted 2 traces on the LCD PCB... :(

 

I'll have to try to track down some really thin mod wire...

 

Despite all the successful mods so far - be very careful when you fit yours folks, it can go wrong if you aren't very careful. I think I should have spotted some glue on my good connections to set them in place as it's a bit fiddly moving these boards around in the lynx case.

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A Lynx II is more delicate then I remember. I just got one that worked. Cleaned it up after taking it apart, it now no longer works. Sad days.

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Shiiiit!

 

I've lifted 2 traces on the LCD PCB... :(

 

I'll have to try to track down some really thin mod wire...

 

Despite all the successful mods so far - be very careful when you fit yours folks, it can go wrong if you aren't very careful. I think I should have spotted some glue on my good connections to set them in place as it's a bit fiddly moving these boards around in the lynx case.

What do you mean by "I think I should have spotted some glue on my good connections to set them in place...."?

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What do you mean by "I think I should have spotted some glue on my good connections to set them in place...."?

 

Wires soldered on pads or onto existing component has a bad habit of pulling if the wire is moved a lot, such as when you're experimenting or trying to fix a problem. I've had lifted pads as well, a dab of hot glue would have held the wire secure and keep it from pulling the trace off the board.

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A Lynx II is more delicate then I remember. I just got one that worked. Cleaned it up after taking it apart, it now no longer works. Sad days.

 

It's the LCD mod board where the pads have lifted - I'll see what I can salvage. At the moment, I have half a screen (literally vertically half is snowy garbage, the other half is the game).

 

I'm going to take the hot glue gun, and an exacto knife to scrape back to the metal of the tracks to give me something secure to solder onto.

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Just use small wires. And do not use the soldering iron too hot or with a big soldering tip.

Here are some pictures of a LYNX-I mod: post-38984-0-77532400-1429206411_thumb.jpg post-38984-0-06018900-1429206431_thumb.jpg

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Wires soldered on pads or onto existing component has a bad habit of pulling if the wire is moved a lot, such as when you're experimenting or trying to fix a problem. I've had lifted pads as well, a dab of hot glue would have held the wire secure and keep it from pulling the trace off the board.

After I posted the question, it came to me what you were talking about. Thanks for the tip, I am about to do this mod when the kit arrives. Very nervous.

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All who have done this mod: What temp should the soldering iron be set to. I have a pretty decent Weller, adjustable temperature. Also, any other tips for completing this mod successfully? Don't want to muff this up. Thanks in advance.

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All who have done this mod: What temp should the soldering iron be set to. I have a pretty decent Weller, adjustable temperature. Also, any other tips for completing this mod successfully? Don't want to muff this up. Thanks in advance.

 

I have a Weller too. The knob goes to 5 but I always kept it on 3. Not sure if that's the optimal setting but it worked for me. I avoided keeping the iron on any components or the boards for too long just in case.

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Okay, so just finished installing this.

 

1. SO AWESOME. No SERIOUSLY. Do it, do it now.

 

2. I would recommend the IDC cabling option for the LCD to Lynx connections. Makes it much easier and a little neater.

 

3. I was 50/50 on the VGA connection, but did it anyway. It looks good and works amazingly. I would recommend going with a black plug if you can get it, as it looks a little more built in.

 

4. DEFINITELY only cut the side of the Lynx without the lettering on it. for the VGA plug, it is easier, ends up being more flush and nice-looking. Thankfully, I had a dead Lynx I could experiment on before hand.

 

5. The solder work is easy. Took me a little longer than I wanted since I misquote the IDC cable and made it too short. I sued the Ethernet cable trick for the VGA wiring and some electrical tape to put them together after I was done. BTW: You should just solder pins 6-7-8 together with one wire coming out of pin 7. The instructions imply that you should connect 8 wires to the VGA jack and that is not the case.

 

6. Remember that you need to connect the backlight pin on the mod to pin 2 on the chip itself, *not* the test point on the motherboard that is connected by two traces.

 

All in all an AMAZING mod with pretty decent install.

Thanks for your inputs on this mod. Looking at McWill's instructions/diagram it shows pin 2 and pin 4 on chip soldered together. Is this true? A picture I saw did not show a wire on pin 4.

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I have a Weller too. The knob goes to 5 but I always kept it on 3. Not sure if that's the optimal setting but it worked for me. I avoided keeping the iron on any components or the boards for too long just in case.

Thanks.

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All who have done this mod: What temp should the soldering iron be set to. I have a pretty decent Weller, adjustable temperature. Also, any other tips for completing this mod successfully? Don't want to muff this up. Thanks in advance.

 

I have mine set to 320°C for most of the work. It's high enough to melt most through-hole solders without causing serious damage to the PCB. It works mostly on tin/lead solder though for pre-RHoS electronics. Lead-free solder still gives me trouble and I need to turn the heat up some more.

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Thanks for your inputs on this mod. Looking at McWill's instructions/diagram it shows pin 2 and pin 4 on chip soldered together. Is this true? A picture I saw did not show a wire on pin 4.

In the installation instructions is shown that the traces of pin 2 and pin 6 of U11 (74HC74A) are together on the ATARI LYNX-II PCB. You can solder the backlight wire to pin 2 or pin 6.

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Thanks for your inputs on this mod. Looking at McWill's instructions/diagram it shows pin 2 and pin 4 on chip soldered together. Is this true? A picture I saw did not show a wire on pin 4.

 

There is a trace on the Lynx motherboard that links those two together, but you do not solder them. Only on pin 2.

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Thanks to all the for tips. Mine mod has not arrived. I will try and go real slow and secure the solder points as I proceed (to prevent movement and lifting of traces).

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When will this be available do you think?

 

Up next, Game Gear? :)

 

The LCD mod for Lynx 1? It's available now. The video? Soon

 

And yes Game Gear I hope.

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According to DHL tracking my modded Lynx model 1 is at least already in my country. I hope I will get it and find some time to show it on video soon.

And of course let´s hope my wife will believe me that this is not just "new crap from eBay"... ;)

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Today I was able to get my screen installed, It works great!!! I am going to try to use the removed screen to try and revive another Lynx II I have that is not working.
If I get it going I will mod its screen also.

 

Also hoping to Mod my GG and Nomad Screens.

 

 

Thank You McWill!!!!

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Here are some pictures I've made last week.

 

attachicon.gifP757.JPGattachicon.gifP758.JPGattachicon.gifP754.JPG

 

VECTREXROLI will make a professional video in a few days.

 

I really love how the VGA out looks on the Lynx I compared to the location on the II. I'm now thinking of finding a Lynx I to have modded. How do you prevent the screen from being scratched up like the old days?

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