rotunda Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Hello all I've just saved a Lynx 2 from the bin.. It is in very nice shape cosmetically but the screen has issues as seen here: I actually repair SEGA Game Gear's on a very regular basis and I am technically minded. I want to repair this little Lynx and bring back some memories of playing my friends Lynx 1 back in the 90's. I have seen this sort of issue with Game Gear's and the typical cause is bad capacitors. Is this the case with these units as well or am i looking at a more involved repair? Looking to take good care of this. Atari has a special place in my computing past so please, any information on how to get this repaired and ship shape is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any info! Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Its most likely the LCD screen I think. There aren't really any caps that cause issues on the Lynx, other than the one on the headphone / audio output and that normally goes when someone sticks DC into the headphone jack by mistake. There's a new VGA screen thread on the forum, take a look at that if you want to swap the screen out for something better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Oh damn really? That's a shame. Well I found a capacitor list online and ordered a full set of Rubycon capacitors so I will replace them all anyway. Can't so any harm filling it with extremely good quality, new caps. As for the screen... that's a shame... Could you link me to a few links as i have found a few on here and I'm abit confused who is actually selling them? I also saw one with VGA out which i definitely do not want. I want to keep the unit 100% original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitari Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Head to the mod by McWill. Just install the new screen without the VGA out. He's taking orders currently so I'd get in there before he sells out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 95 euros good god! I could buy another 2 working ones for that... this is a shame... Oh well, will look nice on my bookshelf i guess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitari Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 95 euros will get you a much better screen than the original.. you could try opening up the lynx and reseating the ribbon connector to the screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorax Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 95 euros good god! I could buy another 2 working ones for that... this is a shame... Oh well, will look nice on my bookshelf i guess. you could buy a working one and sell this one (to me? ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 95 euros will get you a much better screen than the original.. you could try opening up the lynx and reseating the ribbon connector to the screen. That is true I have seen the screen on in peoples pictures and it looks incredible! I just can't justify spending that much. I love the system but... I'm not flush with cash. I will certainly open it up though and check the cable. maybe rub the pins with rubbing alcohol carefully? I will also be swapping out the capacitors regardless as I just bought a full set of extremely high quality caps as i said earlier so may as well. you could buy a working one and sell this one (to me? ) To be honest if anyone has one working or would like to do a trade, or if i find a working one I would consider it. This one is in really nice cosmetic condition which is nice. Deserves to be repaired and cared for really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+karri Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 The flaw in the Lynx LCD does look like a bad ribbon connector to me. Perhaps just re-inserting the connectors could help. Usually the LCD fails so that one third of the screen is dimmer than the rest. This looks like much glitches in controlling the LCD. Changing caps is also a very good guess. But I don't think the LCD is bad. -- Karri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Really? that is reassuring. Would it be the cable needs to be replaced? or is it just loose or something? I will give it a go when it arrives. Ah yes... Game Gear's do the same thing there are 3 sections to the LCD on a Game Gear and one of these can go darker than the rest. I wonder if the Lynx uses the same/similar LCD panel as the Game Gear? If it does look like glitches in the control of the LCD then thats good news as I'm sure one of the many caps would be used to control the LCD in various ways. When it arrives i shall carefully strip it down and have a good look. Hopefully I can repair it as I've just purchased Blue Lightning which i played as a kid in the 90's. Fantastic memories! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isgoed Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Oh damn really? That's a shame. Well I found a capacitor list online and ordered a full set of Rubycon capacitors so I will replace them all anyway. Can't so any harm filling it with extremely good quality, new caps. As for the screen... that's a shame... Could you link me to a few links as i have found a few on here and I'm abit confused who is actually selling them? I also saw one with VGA out which i definitely do not want. I want to keep the unit 100% original. Please tell us if the capacitors solve your problem. I've seen a set capacitors on e-bay.uk for Lynx I and/or Lynx II, but I am holding back atm to buy and try those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 I certainly will do... I bought my own caps from CPC (england) as eBay ones were like... £6.99 and only cheap capacitors... crazy. I purchased a full set of Rubycon caps (extremely high quality capacitors) for mine for about £3.40 shipped. I will keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hey all I got it in the post today.. It's in great shape cosmetically. Sadly though I'm 99% sure the LCD is dying. I tried messing about with the ribbon cable and it made no difference what so ever. From looking at it I've seen this issue before with Game Gear's and I've never managed to solve it without swapping out the LCD. This looks like the LCD to me... The right side is dimmer slightly than the rest of the LCD (seen this on Game Gear's many times). Here's some pictures of the machine and inside... At this stage I put it back together and didn't bother with recapping the machine. The screen is really bright and the sound is incredibly loud and clear so I really doubt it's anything capacitor related so no point fixing something that isn't broken. I guess I will have to see if i can get a replacement screen or something unless you guys have any ideas? One thing i will say is it is no way as bad as it was in the pictures he took of it. The screen is actually playable. I've been playing Blue Lightning on it and its pretty good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 It seems the more I'm using this unit the better it's getting! Just wish i could get rid of those lines on the right, any ideas guys or is it new LCD time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I am thinking that where the flex ribbon is glued onto the LCD - that's likely the problem. They are usually glued on with a conductive glue, pressed thermally onto LCD edge. It has been a while since I stripped a Lynx LCD down, but assuming it is assembled that way, you could try heating the flex ribbon where it is glued to the LCD edge. Hot air might work best, but not too hot. Clamp the flex ribbon straight afterwards to try and hold in place as it cools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Hi Gadget, Thanks for the info. I will have a look when i get chance. Reason I've not progressed further is I've just acquired 2 more of them haha! Both are in need of repair but they were very, very cheap and came with a game so... The first one has a green tint to the screen and thats as far as it will go.. I've had this happen with Game Gears (Sorry I know I keep going onabout Game Gear's) It happens when the cart isn't being read properly usually due to the pins not making contact properly. Is this likely with the Lynx? or does anyone else know for sure what the issue is with this type of green screen? Second one doesn't turn on at all sadly, any idea's what to look for? Although I might just use it for parts and put it's LCD into my working one here? Although, I'd rather get all 3 working. Any idea's? Finally, Here's a pic of them together with a game... Any help is appreciated. I'd really like to get all 3 working as I don't think i could live with killing one for parts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirlynxalot Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) If the cartridge is in but not being read properly, typically I see a yellow text "insert game" screen pop up and sporadically flash on my lynx 2. This happens with one particular cart I own, which I need to pull out slightly to get to work for some reason.For the lynx that does not turn on, I would troubleshoot based on this guide which identifies a few issues and gives suggestions for fixing them:http://www.retroisle.com/atari/lynx/Technical/Hardware/lynx_repair.phpFor the white screen lynx, I'd look at this thread, you might have internal components receiving too high of a voltage to work properly. Or could be caps, or could be damage to the motherboard from battery acid (this happened to a gamegear of mine).http://atariage.com/forums/topic/194034-a-small-atari-lynx-problem/ Edited January 27, 2015 by sirlynxalot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael David Morsette Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 If the cartridge is in but not being read properly, typically I see a yellow text "insert game" screen pop up and sporadically flash on my lynx 2. This happens with one particular cart I own, which I need to pull out slightly to get to work for some reason. I had a cart that did the same thing, I would actually put a pencil eraser behind it to keep it torqued while I played. Someone suggested to me that it was cracked/broken solder. They said to heat an oven and throw in in for a few seconds then let the cart cool. I didn't have much luck, but it may be worth trying. I'll see if I can hunt down the post so you can have better info on what they suggested to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael David Morsette Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 "One trick to get the re-solder done is to set the cart in an owen heated to at least 183°C or 361.4 °F. The solder will melt at that temperature. I have fixed stuff like Ethernet switches and broken motherboards this way. Usually I put in a small piece of tin in order to see when it starts to melt. 10 to 20 seconds should be enough. The new RoHS solder has a higher melting point 217 ˚C. But the Lynx was made before RoHS solder was invented. It is not a good idea to go above 220 ˚C as you will fry the chips as well. For the Lynx I would use exactly 190 ˚C and check it with a meat thermometer before putting the cart in. -- Karri " http://atariage.com/forums/topic/68607-can-a-lynx-cart-gp-bad/page-2?hl=%2Bgauntlet&do=findComment&comment=2538983 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirlynxalot Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 The "defective" cart actually works 100% of the time in my lynx 1, and pulling it out a bit in my lynx 2 isn't that much of an issue. Thanks for the idea to reflow the solder though. (The game in question is California Games btw) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Hey all and thanks for all the replies! Firstly, my original first lynx i got i tried heating the LCD area you guys mentioned but no joy. It had no effect with both hot air or a very quick touch of a soldering iron. I've kind of given up on it really but it was cheap and does actually work. It's playable so... no big deal really. Now.. for I got the Lynx's today.. sadly, one of them is completely screwed the screen is damaged (some of the pixels seem to be black like the unit is on and some are white. perfect lines so doesn't look like a normal cracked screen and it is missing its LCD cable. The board had some random wire attached from the board to the ground on the headphone jack. I assume this was to ground out the Mosfet and force it to turn on... I removed it, put it all back together and now its considered an ornament on my book shelf... Now for the final one, the one which actually turns on... I've stripped it down and put some batteries in it and the screen just stays 100% black. The contrast wheel has no effect what so ever on the screen. What could this be? There is also no sound when a game is put in it so it doesn't seem to even be running games? I tried the screen in my working Lynx and its doing the exact same thing but with sound. I think I've picked up 2 very ill machines... Any idea's guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotunda Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) A look deeper into this and it seems someones had this ribbon off too and tried to tape it down with electric tape... I tried heating this up with air and also soldering iron and putting it back in place but it wont work. I have no idea how to fix it? It's a shame as the panel itself looks to be in good clean working order and might be a good replacement for my other LCD. Does anyone know how to get that ribbon back down? if you even can? Edited January 29, 2015 by rotunda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadPricey Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Hi, Sorry to hijack your thread. I have just acquired a Lynx 2 which has 2 horizontal lines running through the bottom of the screen. The guy who sold it was pretty sure they weren't there prior to shipping. If this is the case is there anything I can check? Attached are some images of the problem. Rgds BadPricey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bratwurst Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Does anyone know how to get that ribbon back down? if you even can? No personal experience doing this, but I have seen where people repaired the flex ribbon connection of Virtual Boy LED displays by stripping some of the ribbon to bare contacts and then soldering those exposed pads to their appropriate traces. http://www.projectvb.com/displayfix.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busterm Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Besr Electronics sells new LCD's, i ordered one last summer for $20. I didnt see it on there website so I just emailed the. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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