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Apple III Game - Mr. Sandman - Co Written by Woz


Caterpiggle

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I'd love to see real Apple /// RGB monitor screenshots.

 

Incidentally, on the RGB monitor, what color is the text in text mode? (E.g. the SOS boot message when you first start up).

 

 

Also, to slightly clarify the description of the game: you don't play as Woz, but you can encounter Woz and he'll power you up to eat the ghosts. It's basically like Pac-Man with a free-roaming power pellet, which makes it pretty near impossible to come up with any kind of coherent strategy :) Plays decently in MESS using an Xbox 360's left analog stick though.

Edited by Arbee
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Hello mmaginnis,

 

I recently transfer Mr. Sandman.dsk from my Apple IIgs to my real Hardware Apple /// computer. It does loading fine and running up BUT I have small issues. Seems that Apple III does not notice my Apple Joystick directions. Really werid behavior. When I pressed both A & B buttons on both Port A & B, it will dim the display. . Pause feature stated, Joystick(B) , so that means Port B but it does not response.

 

If I pressed the buttons, the display will dimming down a bit, that's it. The Games only response to "Arrow left, Arrow right, arrow up, arrow down" , no buttons , no directions, nothing. Did I missing something ?? I did toddled "M" key to change from mouse to joystick, nothing ! No change and still appear as "Mouse" on the right display.

Edited by Caterpiggle
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  • 3 weeks later...

I found this 3rd party joystick that made for Apple /// , finally. It comes from eBay image online. So now, I know what it looks like. So that is the answer. Not sure if the black button is really missing (right button) ? Look the image there ...

post-29380-0-90485400-1426473480_thumb.jpg

post-29380-0-64022300-1426473494_thumb.jpg

Edited by Caterpiggle
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I found this 3rd party joystick that made for Apple /// , finally. It comes from eBay image online. So now, I know what it looks like. So that is the answer. Not sure if the black button is really missing (right button) ? Look the image there ...

 

The black "button" is a three-position, mode-selecting toggle switch. Here's a description from an Apple peripheral pamphlet. Interesting... I have one of these joysticks and I don't seem to recall a toggle switch, just a regular button. I'll have to check tonight.

post-41572-0-60604000-1426554255_thumb.png

Edited by computist
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I've used the Cursor /// joystick to play Atomic Defense (though this is just a video of the game, I think you can see the handle of the joystick very briefly when I pick it up):



Mine looks basically just like those eBay photos above. They are quite hard to find though. The one I have I have because Mike tipped me off to an eBay auction he saw before I did, in fact. (Thanks, Mike!)

 

The connection is not the same as the Apple II joystick connection, but it seems like it would be quite useful to figure out how to adapt or modify an Apple II joystick to work in the Apple ///, given the rarity of these things. It may well have already been figured out, I haven't really looked into it, but perhaps now I will. Worst case, I can open mine up and see how it's wired inside, presumably these are not particularly complicated devices.

 

post-38909-0-46275800-1426953766_thumb.jpg

post-38909-0-58352000-1426953781_thumb.jpg

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Did a bit of quick Googling, there is a description of the pinout differences between the /// and //e joystick ports here:

 

http://mirrors.apple2.org.za/ground.icaen.uiowa.edu/MiscInfo/Empson/joystickA3

 

Sounds like it's actually potentially dangerous to plug a //e joystick into a /// because the way the buttons are mapped, they'll cause a short. I think all the information needed to create an adapter is here, but I don't yet understand how the toggle switch is handled. Atomic Defense, if I interpreted what was happening correctly at least, seems to be able to detect the position of the toggle switch, because it uses the setting of the switch to determine which base fires. I thought it worked by firing from one base when you toggle left and one when you toggle right, but it might be actually that the position of the toggle switch selects the base and the fire button fires from the selected base. I'll have to try it again to be sure. But I don't see from the pinout list (which I'll copy and paste below) what is being used to detect it (there's just one pin assigned to SW1).

 

The Apple III joystick port has very little in common with the

Apple II one. Do not attempt to connect an Apple II joystick to an
Apple III, or vice versa. At the very least, it will not work. At
worst, you could damage the computer.

For starters, if you push either button, you will short out the power
supply (+5V will be connected to ground).

Here are the pinouts, for comparison:

IIe III

1 SW1 GND
2 +5V +5V
3 GND GND
4 PDL2 Joy-X
5 PDL0 SW0
6 SW2 +12V
7 SW0 GND
8 PDL1 Joy-Y
9 PLD3 SW1

Luckily, no single joysticks use pin 7 (SW2). If you pressed that, you
would short out +12V to +5V, which could do some serious damage to the
motherboard.

The Apple III also uses a different circuit arrangement within the
joystick.

The switch inputs are supposed to have pull-down resistors (270 ohms),
and have a momentary-closed contact to +5V. (The Apple II doesn't
need a pull-down resistor, but it wouldn't matter if one was there.)

The joystick analog inputs are supposed to be connected so that one
end of each potentiometer is grounded, the other end connected to
+12V, and the wiper goes to the joystick pin. The potentioment value
can range from 1K ohm to 700K ohm (the manual says that with higher
values, a limited range will be available, so I expect that 100K ohm,
as used in a PC joystick, should be OK).

(The Apple II uses a 150K ohm potentiometer to +5V. There is no
connection to ground - one end of the pot is left unconnected.)
--
David Empson

 

Edited by Paul Hagstrom
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