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gamer-stu

XF551 dead power supply

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I have recently gotten my XF551 up and running by replacing the Mitsumi d503 mech. The previous owner had routed around a broken power switch by cutting a trace and jumpering so it's always on. So I have been pulling out the power cord when I want to turn it off and inserting it when I want to turn it on. A pain, but oh well. Recently that power supply died with voltage going close to zero. I have several of these supplies since they're the same as the 1050, but before I start using another one I will ask this question: could the death of this power supply have anything to do with turning the drive on and off by inserting and pulling the plug? Related question - it would be very easy for me to add a generic switch to the jumpered area -- would any 'ol switch work?

Edited by gamer-stu

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It could be possible to damage the supply that way. Some connectors will actually momentarily short when plugging / unplugging, but that doesn't usually happen with the barrel style plugs. It still couldn't hurt to implement a proper power switch.

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Thanks Stephen. I'm tempted to just ditch the existing board and get one of the reimaged ones. $150 is a little steep for me at the moment unfortunately.

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When replacing the power supply, I'd get the rebuildable one from Best Electronics. $20 vs. $15 for the stock one.

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could the death of this power supply have anything to do with turning the drive on and off by inserting and pulling the plug?

 

You mean the plug to the wall socket? I think this should be no problem.

Maybe there is a fuse in the PS killed? I found different ones in my 1050-transformers, some fitted with 4A, some with 5A iirc.

Another (thermal) fuse is in the transformer itself. But this one reacts if the transformer is to hot for a longer time.

 

Iit is dangerous (for the XF) to connect the powered PS into a switched-on XF - I killed my first XF this way (CPU was dead).

 

Sleepy

Edited by Sleepy

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You mean the plug to the wall socket? I think this should be no problem.

Maybe there is a fuse in the PS killed? I found different ones in my 1050-transformers, some fitted with 4A, some with 5A iirc.

Another (thermal) fuse is in the transformer itself. But this one reacts if the transformer is to hot for a longer time.

 

Iit is dangerous (for the XF) to connect the powered PS into a switched-on XF - I killed my first XF this way (CPU was dead).

 

Sleepy

 

Thanks Sleepy. Actually I have been pulling the PS plug from the XF, in the same way that killed your XF. I will stop doing that :). I ordered one of the old under monitor system savers from eBay, the kind with individual power switches. I'll plug it in to that, along with the other components, and just switch it on and off through that.

 

As an aside, these 9vAC Atari power supplies (C017945) look like they're openable, though not easily. Anyone know how to do that so I can check out the fuse?

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I have recently gotten my XF551 up and running by replacing the Mitsumi d503 mech. The previous owner had routed around a broken power switch by cutting a trace and jumpering so it's always on. So I have been pulling out the power cord when I want to turn it off and inserting it when I want to turn it on. A pain, but oh well. Recently that power supply died with voltage going close to zero. I have several of these supplies since they're the same as the 1050, but before I start using another one I will ask this question: could the death of this power supply have anything to do with turning the drive on and off by inserting and pulling the plug? Related question - it would be very easy for me to add a generic switch to the jumpered area -- would any 'ol switch work?

WOW, that just suck's! What did you use for a new mech? B&C got replacement XF551 PCB for $75.00. :)

Edited by walter_J64bit

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WOW, that just suck's! What did you use for a new mech? B&C got replacement XF551 PCB for $75.00. :)

Hi Walter. I was able to get a used Mitsumi 503 on eBay for $40. It works well. If I'm going to spring money on a new PCB it will be for the reimagined version.

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It's been a long time, but IIRC, you have to crack open those 9 VAC PS. There *might* be screws under the little rubber feet, but I still think they are welded/glued together.

 

Consider a new switch at the front of the XF. I've seen it done before, and it can look quite acceptable. And maybe add a power LED at the front bottom at the same time. And maybe a D1: D2: switch.

 

There, you have something for the weekend now that football is over. ;)

 

-Larry

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It's been a long time, but IIRC, you have to crack open those 9 VAC PS. There *might* be screws under the little rubber feet, but I still think they are welded/glued together.

 

Consider a new switch at the front of the XF. I've seen it done before, and it can look quite acceptable. And maybe add a power LED at the front bottom at the same time. And maybe a D1: D2: switch.

 

There, you have something for the weekend now that football is over. ;)

 

-Larry

 

Thanks Larry, great ideas. I took a closer look at the XF551 power switch and it is more complicated than I thought. It looks like it switches both AC and DC circuits. So I definitely need to do my homework before messing with that. For the time being I am going to keep it plugged in all of the time and switch on and off via the system center power switcher that I bought. I definitely want to try these mods that you've suggested though!

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Thanks Larry, great ideas. I took a closer look at the XF551 power switch and it is more complicated than I thought. It looks like it switches both AC and DC circuits. So I definitely need to do my homework before messing with that. For the time being I am going to keep it plugged in all of the time and switch on and off via the system center power switcher that I bought. I definitely want to try these mods that you've suggested though!

According to the XF551 schematic only one side of the AC supply is switched. The XF551 does have a DPDT switch, but looking at pictures of the copper side of the circuit board it appears both inputs connect to the same terminal of the power jack, 2 outputs to one input of the L1 inductor, with the other 2 outputs unused. This is functionally just 2 SPST switches in parallel being operated simultaneously.

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I will stop doing that :).

 

 

That's a good idea, I did blow a couple of fuses by inserting the plug when the drive switch was in the ON position, and the only way to open those PS is to cut it open. I use a dremel and a cutting disk, then use hot glue to put the pieces back together.

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That's a good idea, I did blow a couple of fuses by inserting the plug when the drive switch was in the ON position, and the only way to open those PS is to cut it open. I use a dremel and a cutting disk, then use hot glue to put the pieces back together.

 

I've taken the Dremel to the case (blech that burning plastic smell) and indeed it has a blown fuse. It looks like it is a 5 AMP 250 volt slow blow fuse. Am I right about it being a slow blow?

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I've taken the Dremel to the case (blech that burning plastic smell) and indeed it has a blown fuse. It looks like it is a 5 AMP 250 volt slow blow fuse. Am I right about it being a slow blow?

 

Yes, it that's correct...

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Am I right about it being a slow blow?

 

 

I don't know, and honestly I just use whatever fuse is available as long as it is the correct amperage rating.

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Here some pics how I opened my revited PS.

 

The cable was damaged:

post-18285-0-33234300-1426958000_thumb.jpg

 

The problem is, if I tried to use an electric drill with a 5mm driller to enhance a rivet, the rivet spins.

Solution: A 5,5mm-driller fixed in a vice to retaliate the rivet:

post-18285-0-56231600-1426958237_thumb.jpg

 

Now the rivet can be carefully "opened":

post-18285-0-99199600-1426958278_thumb.jpg

 

A srew and a hammer helps removing the rest of the rivet:

post-18285-0-68977700-1426958319_thumb.jpg

 

The opened box:

post-18285-0-80836800-1426958393_thumb.jpg

 

The fuse can be found in the white sleeve:

post-18285-0-38317700-1426958477_thumb.jpg

 

Sleeπ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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If you removed the screwed cord grip, remind the following when you reassembling:

Before you tighten up the screw, turn it gently counterclockwise (as if you would going to unscrew it again). If you feel a light click, the screw´s thread is in the right 90 degree position to be tighten it up clockwise. If you don´t care, the screw taps a new thread each time and severel timeslater the screw no longer holds.

 

After fixing the cable, this type of rubber feet with M3-screw were used to close the housing:

post-18285-0-01921800-1427002333_thumb.jpg

This type of foot have an advantage: it reduces the bothersome buzzing of some transformers.

 

Top view:

post-18285-0-47559000-1427002356_thumb.jpg

 

Botton view:

post-18285-0-59431100-1427002375_thumb.jpg

 

sleeπ

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