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Happy or Duplicator?

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Edit: Not automatically.

 

 

In SDX, use INDUS.SYS to program Happy and Indus drives. Put it in CONFIG.SYS.

I was just recently reading the SDX 4.7 manual, relearning SD since before SDX last year my knowledge was all SD 3.2 and before and a lot has changed since then. Anywho, I came across this in the manual and re-inserted it into my Config.sys file as I had removed it since I didn't have a Indus drive! (I do have a Happy "clone" or "re-imaging" from Atarimax)

Edited by Gunstar
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It can be hard to follow sdx project sometimes. The names are not always descriptive of what a thing actually does and revisions are only notated by dates..... it can be a trial....

honestly I was super happy with everything up until the the switch in direction after 4.47. The more recent version trend has been to move things about in memory or requiring large memory machines to run effectively... there is so much good though and it's still the best for the Atari in so many ways

Edited by _The Doctor__
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It can be hard to follow sdx project sometimes. The names are not always descriptive of what a thing actually does and revisions are only notated by dates..... it can be a trial....

honestly I was super happy with everything up until the the switch in direction after 4.47. The more recent version trend has been to move things about in memory or requiring large memory machines to run effectively... there is so much good though and it's still the best for the Atari in so many ways

That's why I have decided to stick with 4.7 (4.47? is that what it is?...yeap, just checked again) for the foreseeable future, it's a trial just learning all of it.

Edited by Gunstar

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There was a student in Wrexham that made boards like these - US Doubler / Happy on a switch that was mounted on the front of the drive. It was a lot more convenient than booting the happy S/W and making the drive "unhappy".

 

Cost me about £30 I think, back when I were a lad.

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Got my new Mini-Speedy working after a ROM mixup 'from the factory' and burned my first EPROM today with the image that works on NTSC machines!

 

A few quick tests

 

Speedy READ SD 34.5 seconds (using SDX / MYCOPYR)

Speedy READ SD 28.5 seconds (using selfbooting HSS sector copier)

Speedy WRITE SD 34 (using SDX / MYCOPYR)

Speedy WRITE SD 27.5 seconds (using selfbooting HSS sector copier)

 

Speedy READ DD 44 seconds (using selfbooting HSS sector copier)

Speedy WRITE DD 43 seconds (using selfbooting HSS sector copier)

 

insanely fast for a real 1050! Almost 2x faster than Happy in areas. There's even a utility to quickly see skew in any density, as well as what copy protections are used on all sectors across the disk. I can finally see DD skews. oh fun new hardware (to me) and maybe to NTSC users?? :D

Edited by Nezgar
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Well,

 

on the Speedy utility disk you will find a program named "Backup Copy", it will only backup copy-protected 90k disks and errrm, only a few of them. Think I found another version of Backup Copy (made by someone else) and several other backup programs for the Speedy drive, e.g. Ultra Copier by Bernd Dongus (from Liberal Dreams Software), MS-Copy (by Compyshop), MS-Formatter (by Compyshop) and a few other programs.

http://www.atarionline.pl/v01/index.php?ct=utils&sub=6.%20Stacja%20dyskietek&tg=Speedy%201050%20System%20Software#Speedy%201050%20System%20Software

http://www.atarionline.pl/v01/index.php?ct=utils&sub=6.%20Stacja%20dyskietek&tg=Speedy%20Backup#Speedy%20Backup

 

One can also use the Turbo Emulator (by Peter Sabath) to emulate the Turbo 1050 drive on a Speedy, when installed boot without a disk in the drive and when the bootmenu appears, press Option to load the Solid State Utilities, there choose the Backup program, which can backup many more copy-protected programs (but still only 90k) than the Backup Copy of the Speedy utility disk.

 

For copy-protected medium/enhanced density disks one may use MS-Copy, MS-Formatter or Diskmaster 1050 by S.Wachter (NOT the disk-editor! a german program to create and analyze various copy-protections, its own copy protection was never cracked!). You can find the MS-Copy program here:

http://www.atarionline.pl/v01/index.php?ct=utils&sub=6.%20Stacja%20dyskietek&tg=MS-Copy#MS-Copy

For the Mini-Speedy and the 1050 you have to use the XEX version however, since the ATR image contains the Speedy-XF version and will only work with a Speedy-XF drive...

 

You can find some Speedy tools in this topic (post 4):

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/247682-which-programsoss-get-the-most-from-speedy-1050-mod/

Edited by CharlieChaplin
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Cool stuff! I was using the system disk here: - Mostly the same programs as SPEEDY1.ATR linked in the post above, with a fancier loader

http://www.atarionline.pl/v01/index.php?ct=utils&sub=6.%20Stacja%20dyskietek&tg=Speedy%201050%20System%20Software&PHPSESSID=m2et3ejnd2us9tld1af05ge3s1#Speedy%201050%20System%20Software

 

I also tried the TURBO.COM on SPEEDY2.ATR, and it does seem to try to upload a large chunk of code to the drive, but fails succeed. I suspect this is an incompatibility with the updated Speedy ROM that HiaS patched for NTSC compatibility. TF_HH says the patched ROM was created just in April 2017, so I'm probably one of the very few new North American Speedy users.

 

I briefly tried the MS-Copy program, and it also didn't produce a working copy of 1 game I quickly tried. More to try out later!

Edited by Nezgar

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Sorry to open up an old thread.

 

I purchased a board off of eBay, that is the same board in the pictures in this thread.

(https://www.ebay.com/itm/223475042734)

 

I'm tinkering with building one for fun, and I'm trying to figure out what the size of the EPROM is. I'm guessing a 27C64? Since it's 8K for the dump.

 

I'd also like to know what the pin header is used for, I think I see that it's for Happy/Unhappy mode and US Doubler mode?

 

Thanks All! I'll try and document the build, and see if I can draw up a schematic too.

 

 

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On 1/21/2017 at 12:05 AM, kheller2 said:

Interesting, I just came across a Happy 1050 on a WST mech that looks similar but not exactly the same as this board. This board has much more angular traces. :) Does anyone know what the first H1050s looked like? I thought some were done by hand by Happy.

 

post-4566-0-88089000-1484949812_thumb.jpg

 

post-4566-0-30718500-1484949814_thumb.jpg

 

ROM:

M5L2764K.BIN 8 kB · 75 downloads

Hi Karl,

 

were does the green wire in your pictures soldered to? and what are the four wires at the left bottom part of the picture

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I am working on populating a similar pcb, I wonder where does extra wires goes to?

inbound6439606958415238356.jpg

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On 1/20/2017 at 4:05 PM, kheller2 said:

Interesting, I just came across a Happy 1050 on a WST mech that looks similar but not exactly the same as this board. This board has much more angular traces. :) Does anyone know what the first H1050s looked like? I thought some were done by hand by Happy.

 

post-4566-0-88089000-1484949812_thumb.jpg

 

post-4566-0-30718500-1484949814_thumb.jpg

 

ROM:

M5L2764K.BIN 8 kB · 77 downloads

Interesting... I just checked out this dump compared to those made by @E474's DUMPROM utility from my drives - and this ROM seems to have the 1st/2nd 4k halves/banks reversed in the ROM dumps.

 

Hard to say which order is "correct" - as the original and clones would just adapt their banking scheme to achieve the same end result....

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Quick and dirty pics coming.   The drive select lines were moved to the front, there seems to be a write protect toggle hack tied into the photo sensor, and there is a switch tied into the clone board.  Also, the green wire connects to a point on the 1050 board where a resistor was pulled up and left floating. 

 

I now wonder why this has more chips on it that the standard Happy board, unless this has the Happy Controller built into it with that hack of lights and switches up front.

 

0F20CA4A-F493-41D4-9D1E-E07C15A3CE3B.jpeg

03BCBC43-2469-4A72-844F-39BC37A153E7.jpeg

489B4659-7A44-44E7-9C06-61A2C5071539.jpeg

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i populated the PCB with the required chips, removed the ROM & CPU of one of my working 1050 drives and placed the board into the CPU slot, the drive is dead now.. i am guessing the installation require additional wiring.

 

 

245423195_10227238827373952_2827089616640799316_n.jpg

IMG_20211018_011221_517.jpg

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Couple of things.  I have not connected this to an Atari and tested it yet, however, I can say on powering up the drive the switch next to the power switch seems to flip between two different ROMs (the red timeout is 3 seconds vs 7 seconds).

 

Also, mine still has the original eprom installed on the board and that R83? wire, seems to be /OE for the 1050ROM.  Make sure your 1050 is setup for ROM vs EPROM.  I'm not sure which setting is correct so I'll send you a pic of mine.

 

 

B9461C50-F576-4ADF-A32E-CE0CCD5DB69E.jpeg

707016EE-8CFF-4D1D-853A-0E3952586C4D.jpeg

219C538E-A36D-4257-8D99-6894FFAA3088.jpeg

FB984712-80AA-4522-B3F9-38770BB9B432.jpeg

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I did added today the extra jumper and still when i power on the Drive nothing happens.. (drive is dead)

i tried the board with and without U1O (ROM) with no luck,

 

i did notice that in my drive the jumper settings are: 1,3,5,7 & yours Drive board are: 2,4,5,7, will this make the difference?

 

Nir

with extra wire.jpg

my board.jpg

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27 minutes ago, ndary said:

i did notice that in my drive the jumper settings are: 1,3,5,7 & yours Drive board are: 2,4,5,7, will this make the difference?

This should only make a difference when using the firmware on the 1050 PCB, they route signals to different pins of the U10 socket, not for firmware on the upgrade PCB.

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21 minutes ago, ndary said:

I did added today the extra jumper and still when i power on the Drive nothing happens.. (drive is dead)

i tried the board with and without U1O (ROM) with no luck,

 

i did notice that in my drive the jumper settings are: 1,3,5,7 & yours Drive board are: 2,4,5,7, will this make the difference?

 

Nir

 

my board.jpg

JP1 + JP3 when using a mask ROM (as you have - correct!), or JP2 + JP4 when using a 2732 EPROM:

post-53052-0-12028500-1523291257.jpg

I would leave the drive with no upgrades installed to continue to troubleshoot. Start by swapping the U&, U8, U9, U10 chips one at a time into another known working drive to test if any are faulty. If you test swapping the U13 WDC controller chip into another drive, make sure to replace it back into the original drive as each drive is factory calibrated to each chip, and it requires an oscilloscope and some special procedures to calibrate if it is replaced.

 

@kheller2 looks to have a WST / made in hong kong drive + EPROM using JP2 + JP4 -- those all came in this configuration from the factory - but the ROM uses a slightly different stepper phase encoding, which if you use a 3rd party ROM / enhancement intended for made in Singapore / Tandon 1050's will offset the head by a 1/4 track, which is of course undesirable, though we now have a patched US Doubler ROM that can be used in WST drives.

 

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Nezgar, my drive is working fine without the upgrade, i am trying to get this upgrade to work

 

Nir

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Just now, ndary said:

Nezgar, my drive is working fine without the upgrade, i am trying to get this upgrade to work

AH sorry, my bad for not reading everything thoroughly. :)

 

U10 ROM should definitely not be present with the upgrade board installed. Guessing the connections that connect to switches in @kheller2's board that switch between the ROM's might need to be connected to select "any" ROM, or maybe between all three if there is still a ROM present on the motherbaord in khellers? Maybe there isn't one selected by default with no connection present, and have to trace which of them go to switches and test by putting a jumper across some pins, etc.

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If you are using the ROM I dumped, then maybe the ROM switch is important to operation.  Guess we need to figure that out.

 

edit: so yes if that header is unplugged on my board I get nothing (except power light). 

edit edit:  using my wire colors, blue+yellow is one position and blue+grey is the other. 
 

edit edit edit:  I’ll try to get some time to draw up the switch wiring since it also goes into the write protect. 

 

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Yes, kheller2 i am using the ROM DUMP you made from your board, then the connection on the header is important to get the drive start and not do nothing (except for light)

 

can you just let me know which pins on the header need to be 'connected together' to get the drive working...

i will try using simple jumpers for a start before moving to the next step and adding the switches 

 

ndary

 

JUMPERS.jpg

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7 hours ago, ndary said:

Yes, kheller2 i am using the ROM DUMP you made from your board, then the connection on the header is important to get the drive start and not do nothing (except for light)

 

can you just let me know which pins on the header need to be 'connected together' to get the drive working...

i will try using simple jumpers for a start before moving to the next step and adding the switches 

 

ndary

 

JUMPERS.jpg

 

Um, not like that.   And that might have been bad.

Starting from the RIGHT, let's call them 1-8.  So the second pin from the RIGHT is #2 (i'm just making this numbering up)

#2 should connect to #6 or #7 (which picks onboard vs expansion ROM)

 

 

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