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Intellivision Flashback Controller Adapters - Round 2

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Can it work in reverse?

 

Like playing Intellivision II Controllers with the Flashback?

no. Would have to be wired differently

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Can it work in reverse?

 

Like playing Intellivision II Controllers with the Flashback?

Pimpmaul69 is correct. They would have to be wired differently. Although if that's something you want, I can certainly make them that way.

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What's easier, getting Arcade style sticks working with INTV 1s or getting Coleco Games working with INTV2's. I assume with an INTV 2, if someone knows the wiring, one can hook up the joystick to the 8 disc endpoints, the buttons to the 4 actions buttons and a touch tone phone to each individual button for 1-9, *, 0, #, and plug it directly into an INTV 2 port. I would need an old touch tone landline phone to be disassembled to wire to the joypad for games that use the joypad and stick and buttons. Or maybe I can insert another controller from an actual system so I can use that system's appropriate overlays. But the INTV 1 can play every INTV game, and I've got 4 Coleco INTV games.

 

I would also prefer the mod to be a temporary mod, where it's as simple as inserting and removing an Intellivoice-like device as opposed to operating on the machine. What's easier to mod without affecting the historical value of an INTV, modifying an INTV 1 to play external controllers, or modifying an INTV 2 to accept Coleco and other third party games?

 

I believe number 2 is simpler. You just need an "in-between" cartridge, like an Intellivoice, to add a title screen to games without title screens that collapse. And pressing any button advances to the first line of the game while circumventing the INTV 2 lockout. You just insert it for games trouble booting on a INTV 2, and remove it with ones that don't. You don't need to worry about Intellivoice conflicts because none of the games that don't boot use the Intellivoice. And any homebrew Intellivoice games can be programmed to circumvent the Coleco lockouts by programming around it. Sounds a lot less permanent that de-hard-wiring the INTV 1 control.

 

Finally, if you want a good picture on real hardware, all games look clearer than ever using a Component CRT TV like a Sony Wega 4x3 SD CRT and to record a DVD-recorder with component outputs and an analog, (or analog/digital) tuner. The DVD introduces a little processing delay, so Y the RF cable using a Powered Splitter, either RF F-Type or RF RCA, and view the TV straight and record the DVD straight. or else you get a snowy picture. Look up youtube name jackofallgamestv and look up my 7800 Crossbow to see the old way, (before powering the splitter, but the light gun did work) and twice the new way, both composite and component capture as a comparison. But the Intellivoice has the ability to add Wireless controllers, but the standard was never made. And they interrupt the 2 in-bay controllers, so there might be a way to work that way too.

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What's easier, getting Arcade style sticks working with INTV 1s or getting Coleco Games working with INTV2's. I assume with an INTV 2, if someone knows the wiring, one can hook up the joystick to the 8 disc endpoints, the buttons to the 4 actions buttons and a touch tone phone to each individual button for 1-9, *, 0, #, and plug it directly into an INTV 2 port. I would need an old touch tone landline phone to be disassembled to wire to the joypad for games that use the joypad and stick and buttons. Or maybe I can insert another controller from an actual system so I can use that system's appropriate overlays. But the INTV 1 can play every INTV game, and I've got 4 Coleco INTV games.

 

I would also prefer the mod to be a temporary mod, where it's as simple as inserting and removing an Intellivoice-like device as opposed to operating on the machine. What's easier to mod without affecting the historical value of an INTV, modifying an INTV 1 to play external controllers, or modifying an INTV 2 to accept Coleco and other third party games?

 

I believe number 2 is simpler. You just need an "in-between" cartridge, like an Intellivoice, to add a title screen to games without title screens that collapse. And pressing any button advances to the first line of the game while circumventing the INTV 2 lockout. You just insert it for games trouble booting on a INTV 2, and remove it with ones that don't. You don't need to worry about Intellivoice conflicts because none of the games that don't boot use the Intellivoice. And any homebrew Intellivoice games can be programmed to circumvent the Coleco lockouts by programming around it. Sounds a lot less permanent that de-hard-wiring the INTV 1 control.

 

Finally, if you want a good picture on real hardware, all games look clearer than ever using a Component CRT TV like a Sony Wega 4x3 SD CRT and to record a DVD-recorder with component outputs and an analog, (or analog/digital) tuner. The DVD introduces a little processing delay, so Y the RF cable using a Powered Splitter, either RF F-Type or RF RCA, and view the TV straight and record the DVD straight. or else you get a snowy picture. Look up youtube name jackofallgamestv and look up my 7800 Crossbow to see the old way, (before powering the splitter, but the light gun did work) and twice the new way, both composite and component capture as a comparison. But the Intellivoice has the ability to add Wireless controllers, but the standard was never made. And they interrupt the 2 in-bay controllers, so there might be a way to work that way too.

It is certainly easier to add DB9 cables to the INTV1. Just unscrew the case, pull the old controllers off their connections, and in plug in the cable that has the DB9 connector.

 

Put the case together.

 

Now you will have two cables coming out that have DB9 on the ends and not controllers.

 

You can purchase pre-made cables from Intellivision Productions, Inc.

 

That is certainly easier than trying to get the Coleco carts working on the INTV2.

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Sounds a lot less permanent that de-hard-wiring the INTV 1 control.

The Intellivision I controllers aren't exactly hard wired; their wires aren't soldered to the board. The controllers plug in directly to the board, so adapter cables like the ones Nurmx makes are really an easy way to give your Intellivision detachable controllers. All you have to do is open up the case, and the modification can be easily reversed.

 

post-39531-0-19095500-1456960765_thumb.jpgpost-39531-0-59685700-1456960764_thumb.jpg

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Thanks, I'll give that a try.

 

I just have to print myself out some instruciton on how to do it. I've repaired Coleco Super Action Controllers and Astrocade Potentiometers, so why not?

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Just an update / thread bump...

 

I got more supply cables in recently (been making adapters for Intellivision Productions), and even have a few adapters made up and ready to go.

 

Intellivision II / Sears adapters are $14/each (or $26/pair). Intellivision 1 adapters are $24/pair.

 

I also have 6 foot extension cables for $8, and Coleco Y-adapter cables for $12 (although I'm probably going to stop making the Y-adapters as it takes 2 supply cables to make one).

 

PM here or email [email protected] if you're interested.

 

 

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Hm. This reminds me - I keep holding off on these because I loathe paying shipping for small-value items. Plus I'm lazy. That being said, I really should get some clean controllers on my dev unit. I think you'd be wise to bring a pair of model 1 adapters to PRGE. And a Coleco Y-adapter as well. :D

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Hm. This reminds me - I keep holding off on these because I loathe paying shipping for small-value items. Plus I'm lazy. That being said, I really should get some clean controllers on my dev unit. I think you'd be wise to bring a pair of model 1 adapters to PRGE. And a Coleco Y-adapter as well. :D

I intend to bring a large selection of adapters (and a few Dual Action Controllers) to PRGE to sell. I'll reserve a couple for you too.

 

 

 

Sent from my Intellivision ECS using Intelli-Tapatalk

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The Dual Action Controller is pretty cool. It's funny how difficult it is to overcome muscle memory in order to take full advantage of it, though! I really had to make a concerted effort to use it!

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The Dual Action Controller is pretty cool. It's funny how difficult it is to overcome muscle memory in order to take full advantage of it, though! I really had to make a concerted effort to use it!

 

So you finally put it through its paces, Steve?

:-D

 

I've spent quite a bit of time using them, as I make and test them, and you're right - it really is hard to overcome muscle memory. For me I think it helps TRON Deadly Discs the most.

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We need to make a game that uses the Dual Action sideways, like an NES pad. Sacrilege on many fronts!

 

Cool idea, but I imagine it would take some getting used to, holding the controller like that.

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Holy Cow! Purchased a pair of INTY II adapters a while back and today my Flashback controllers arrived. Everything works well. These adapters have just the right fit (IMHO).

 

Thank you nurmix for making the adapters. Now I'm really enjoying these games. The Flashback controllers are a definite improvement over my old INTY II controllers. :-D

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Holy Cow! Purchased a pair of INTY II adapters a while back and today my Flashback controllers arrived. Everything works well. These adapters have just the right fit (IMHO).

 

Thank you nurmix for making the adapters. Now I'm really enjoying these games. The Flashback controllers are a definite improvement over my old INTY II controllers. :-D

 

Anything is! ;-)

 

I love Intellivision controllers, but can't stand using Intellivision II controllers for anything.

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Holy Cow! Purchased a pair of INTY II adapters a while back and today my Flashback controllers arrived. Everything works well. These adapters have just the right fit (IMHO).

 

Thank you nurmix for making the adapters. Now I'm really enjoying these games. The Flashback controllers are a definite improvement over my old INTY II controllers. :-D

Did you get your Flashback controllers from Intellivision Productions? They've been saying "sold out" for a while.

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Did you get your Flashback controllers from Intellivision Productions? They've been saying "sold out" for a while.

 

Yes I did. I placed my order prior to Christmas and received them yesterday. I spoke with them (Keith Robinson actually) this past Tuesday. Sounds like they have a new batch available.

 

I really like them and am seriously considering getting a second pair.

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After that overlay fiasco and how long it took to receive them (several months) , I'd be nervous to order anything from them.

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After that overlay fiasco and how long it took to receive them (several months) , I'd be nervous to order anything from them.

 

I'm going to place another order with them for the FB Controllers. They answer their phone, so I plan on calling before I place my next order, just to confirm that they are in stock.

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I'm going to place another order with them for the FB Controllers. They answer their phone, so I plan on calling before I place my next order, just to confirm that they are in stock.

Good idea. I'll call before I order next time.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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Hey Nurmix. I assume the Intellivision adapters are straight rewiring adapters for various things, and require no programming. The FB-> INTV1 is basicially a 9-pin to 9-pin but in a proprietary format fo the INTV 1. You also state you make FB controls-> INTV 2 machine adapters.

 

Out of curiosity: Do you custom make any other combination of INTV1, INTV 2, and INTV FB?

 

I assume since it's just a wiring job and now you do customs for $1 more per wire than a multi-unit run, here's a couple I'm looking to get done. Have you considered other adapters, like what I need, which I will pay the normal price for:

 

1) 2 Atari 2600 lefty adapters (plug it in a standard 2600 stick and the console, rotate 90 degrees clockwise and play lefty)

2) An Atari 2600 Joystick to Bally Astrocade machine adapter (assumijng either a 7800, Colecovision, or Genesis controller would work just as well as 2600 stick.) If you need the pinout direction for an Atari Controller to Astrocade Machine adapter: visit http://www.glankonian.com/~lance/Hack.htmlto read pinout instructions. I need this for my PS2->Genesis fight stick adapter and PS2 fight stick.

3) Maybe, a reverse of #2, an Astrocade Joystick to Atari Console adapter for using the pistol grip on 2600 games.

 

4) I'm asking this in theory, not in practice, because I have a universal soluiton for all my controls, but... if changing the button functions is as simple as pin rewiring, a "Button Flipper" for the following 2 button consoles: Atari 5200, Atari 7800, NES, Colecovision Standard, Master System, and Turbo Grafx 16. Tutankham, Pac-Land, and Side Arms need a button flipper if playing with a right handed joystick. If one of them requires something other than a simple pin swap, just say it's not that easy.

 

(P.S. Do I only get the bulk discount on the 2 Left wires because they are 2 of a kind, or do I get a discount on all for these adapters?)

Edited by tripletopper

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Hey Nurmix. I assume the Intellivision adapters are straight rewiring adapters for various things, and require no programming. The FB-> INTV1 is basicially a 9-pin to 9-pin but in a proprietary format fo the INTV 1. You also state you make FB controls-> INTV 2 machine adapters.

 

Out of curiosity: Do you custom make any other combination of INTV1, INTV 2, and INTV FB?

 

I assume since it's just a wiring job and now you do customs for $1 more per wire than a multi-unit run, here's a couple I'm looking to get done. Have you considered other adapters, like what I need, which I will pay the normal price for:

 

1) 2 Atari 2600 lefty adapters (plug it in a standard 2600 stick and the console, rotate 90 degrees clockwise and play lefty)

2) An Atari 2600 Joystick to Bally Astrocade machine adapter (assumijng either a 7800, Colecovision, or Genesis controller would work just as well as 2600 stick.) If you need the pinout direction for an Atari Controller to Astrocade Machine adapter: visit http://www.glankonian.com/~lance/Hack.htmlto read pinout instructions. I need this for my PS2->Genesis fight stick adapter and PS2 fight stick.

3) Maybe, a reverse of #2, an Astrocade Joystick to Atari Console adapter for using the pistol grip on 2600 games.

 

4) I'm asking this in theory, not in practice, because I have a universal soluiton for all my controls, but... if changing the button functions is as simple as pin rewiring, a "Button Flipper" for the following 2 button consoles: Atari 5200, Atari 7800, NES, Colecovision Standard, Master System, and Turbo Grafx 16. Tutankham, Pac-Land, and Side Arms need a button flipper if playing with a right handed joystick. If one of them requires something other than a simple pin swap, just say it's not that easy.

 

(P.S. Do I only get the bulk discount on the 2 Left wires because they are 2 of a kind, or do I get a discount on all for these adapters?)

 

Yes, the Intellivision Flashback controller adapters are straight rewiring. I make versions to use Flashback controllers on the original consoles, and ones for the Inty II/Sears. I can also make reverse adapters to use Sears/Inty II controllers on a Flashback (although I don't know why you would!), and straight adapters to use Sears/Inty II controllers on an original Intellivision.

 

I also make DB9 Y-adapter cables, mostly targeted at Colecovision - using the CV controller/keypad along with a 2600 compatible joystick. But the Y-adapters can be used with pretty much anything that uses DB9 controller connectors.

 

I haven't considered a 'lefty' 2600 cable. I have considered doing a special "Smurf" adapter for the Colecovision that allows a side button to be used for jumping instead of UP on the joy-stub... but I'm not sure if that will be as simple as changing a couple wires, as the CV controllers are more complex electrically than most controllers of that era (diodes, anyone?!)

 

I'm not really looking to make other adapters. It's a side/hobby thing and these days free time to do stuff like that is severely limited. Plus I'm still the one supplying Intellivision Productions with all their adapters.

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Yes, the Intellivision Flashback controller adapters are straight rewiring. I make versions to use Flashback controllers on the original consoles, and ones for the Inty II/Sears. I can also make reverse adapters to use Sears/Inty II controllers on a Flashback (although I don't know why you would!), and straight adapters to use Sears/Inty II controllers on an original Intellivision.

 

I also make DB9 Y-adapter cables, mostly targeted at Colecovision - using the CV controller/keypad along with a 2600 compatible joystick. But the Y-adapters can be used with pretty much anything that uses DB9 controller connectors.

 

I haven't considered a 'lefty' 2600 cable. I have considered doing a special "Smurf" adapter for the Colecovision that allows a side button to be used for jumping instead of UP on the joy-stub... but I'm not sure if that will be as simple as changing a couple wires, as the CV controllers are more complex electrically than most controllers of that era (diodes, anyone?!)

 

I'm not really looking to make other adapters. It's a side/hobby thing and these days free time to do stuff like that is severely limited. Plus I'm still the one supplying Intellivision Productions with all their adapters.

 

 

The most important ones you didn't touch on. 9 PIn button flipping and Atari<-> Astrocade converters. I'm trying to connect my special PS2 fight stick to an Astorcade, and I can so far get it to PS2-> Genesis. And previous experience with the GameCube Port Adapter for Wii U works chaining a PS2-> Game Cube -> Switch (via Wii U device) so chaining is possible and usually works in most cases.

 

I suspect the only way you'll consider doing them is if they are straight pin remap wirings. No chips, no other electronic components.

 

By the way, I don't need paddle functions on the 2600-> Astrocade adapter. If I want to play an Astrocade paddle game, I'd use an Astrocade paddle. Only joystick is needed, at least by me, thank you.

The website shown above has the Atari and Astorcade mapping combinations. I'l even copy them myself.

To quote glakonian website:

 

The numbering above is reverse to the industry standard. This has made it difficult

when working with pre-numbered DB9 ends.Below is the matching pinouts.

 

Bally/Astrocade Atari Standard

Controller port Controller port

 

1. NC (No Connection) 1. Up

2. Down 2. Down

3. Left 3. Left

4. Right 4. Right

5. Trigger 5. Paddle Potentiometer B

6. Up 6. Fire Button

7. Potentiometer end 7. +5v (Paddle end)

8. Ground 8. Ground

9. 50K Potentiometer (Knob) 9. Paddle Potentiometer A

 

DB9 Male Port: DB9 Female Plug:

1 2 3 4 5 5 4 3 2 1

6 7 8 9 9 8 7 6

 

An Atari-Bally controller converter may be constructed.

The connections are listed here:

 

A1-B6 A2-B2 A3-B3 A4-B4 A5-NC B1-NC A6-B5 A7-B7 A8-B8

A9-B9

.... where (A)tari (B)ally.

 

Thus adapters can be made to connect an Atari compatible controller to the

Bally/Astrocade or vice versa.

 

Please note that the Bally/ Atari/ Commodore paddles use different value

potentiometers and additional work is necessary to make one controller

work with another console. Adding A resistor in parallel will help if the

sweep (Max turn) is too long. Other?

 

Also note that the Bally/ Astrocade port does not provide voltage. Thus

autofire circuits will not work when plugged into the port. But the

ambitious tinkerer may build an autofire circuit tapping the light pen port.

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