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1 hour ago, CZroe said:

Does anyone know where I can find high resolution or vector images of various PCE/TG16 controller designs? ...like, just the art and not the whole controller. I want to print and cut replacement label stickers for the clear RetroGameRestore controller shell.

 

I imagine this is something I'm going to have to figure out how to make myself but figured I'd ask first just in case.

 

 

 

 

If you do get some, please let me know so I can do the same when I get mine!

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Was checking to see if BEEP is going to be open again before I die of old age in 50 years (they will open again on the 1st, fortunately), and I saw this.

 

 

Nice to see that this thing will be available again at its regular insane price.

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If you do get some, please let me know so I can do the same when I get mine!

Will do. I'm getting a lot of tips about the process on Facebook (printing, laminating, etc) and I have the programmable cutting equipment so I'm half way there. Problem is, Inknow nothing of cleaning up scans or vectorizing so it'll be a learning process for sure if I end up scanning what I can myself.

 

 

 

Was checking to see if BEEP is going to be open again before I die of old age in 50 years (they will open again on the 1st, fortunately), and I saw this.

 

 

Nice to see that this thing will be available again at its regular insane price.

 

Yeah, I saw that on Twitter before and thought that they should always be doing backorder preorders so that they could meet more demand with each production batch.

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57 minutes ago, CZroe said:

Will do. I'm getting a lot of tips about the process on Facebook (printing, laminating, etc) and I have the programmable cutting equipment so I'm half way there. Problem is, Inknow nothing of cleaning up scans or vectorizing so it'll be a learning process for sure if I end up scanning what I can myself.

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I saw that on Twitter before and thought that they should always be doing backorder preorders so that they could meet more demand with each production batch.

Well, I have absolutely nothing at all, so I have to figure out a way to make it happen. Maybe I'll just use it in its normal clear state if it looks cool that way. Not sure yet.

 

Good news is that tomorrow is pay day AND an off day... you know what that means! I'm primarily going to look for a Skeleton Saturn, but I've been meaning to get more PC Engine games. You know what's sad? Half of my PC Engine games are SuperGrafx games. I'm considering getting Daimakaimura this time, but I think I'd honestly rather get a Skeleton Saturn + some cheap Saturn games + NeoSD Pro for my Neo Geo. Still, I might get some PC Engine games if I can find anything decent at a good price.

 

I did find Appare! Gateball for exactly 700 yen CIB (+ tax, of course) at Trader and it's probably still there. I tried it on the PC Engine mini and it's a fun little game. For 700 yen, it's absolutely worth it. Hopefully I do not forget to buy it AGAIN... I've been wanting to buy it ever since the mini was released, but I always forget about it and buy a ton of expensive stuff instead. I really should stop buying so much expensive crap. Last month alone I bought 2 expensive consoles and a computer (SuperGrafx, Neo Geo, and MSX2+) SuperGrafx games, Neo Geo games, and a random MD game. Still, I got my application for stimulus money in the mail 2 days ago, so maybe I'll use that cash to buy a PC Engine LT like a fool.

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Well, my TurboGrafx-16 Mini finally arrived yesterday! The diagonals are too sensitive. I'm going to raise the D-pad with a sticker to see if that helps like it has with some other controllers. The adhesive dot may even be able to cover some of the pad and make them less sensitive to diagonals but these don't have redundant areas where you could cover the innermost part like some 8BitDo controllers. :(

I took a peek inside... just like Steven here said, the hole for the controller cord isn't big enough for a board swap. The board itself fits perfectly with all the same alignment pegs and such, but even if you widened the hole or stripped the cable insulation to fit it, it wouldn't work right.

The Run and Select buttons have double carbon dots that don't align right with the single contacts on an original board and even if you brought your old rubber pads with you, well, the turbo switches are redesigned with a different and more narrow position for the leaf contacts. You can't swap the turbo switches.

It does have a hole in the faceplate that could make removing the label sticker easier where my original controller did not. That would he good for my replica label sticker project. Being new it's going to be a better starting point than one of my used originals anyway but I'm still hesitant to try because any mangling and I'd have to buy a whole new TG16 Mini since they don't sell these controller designs separately.

I think I'll wait until I can get my hands on one of the controllers they do sell since I can buy another if I screw it up and then apply what I learn to sagely do the others. The thing is, I'm pretty sure my original white PCE turbo controller has a hole under the label sticker too, even though my North American TurboPad controller does not. I vividly remember seeing it in my white pad it after I had it apart for days when de-yellowing. Maybe some do and some don't depending on their manufacturing date or mold position so I need to check more of my original TurboPads.

I might see if I can get the unbranded one off the Old Skool pad, since I have extras and really don't care about sacrificing one of those. :) The SGX controller is the one I'm most apprehensive about. I definitely don't want to screw that one up just to remove it and scan it flat. We'll have to see how the other go.

I plan to use heat and solvents (Goo-Gone, WD-40, etc) to see if I can get them to lift off. That means I'll need to re-adhere them with fresh adhesive which will probably be the spray-on stuff from 3M.

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13 hours ago, CZroe said:

Well, my TurboGrafx-16 Mini finally arrived yesterday! The diagonals are too sensitive. I'm going to raise the D-pad with a sticker to see if that helps like it has with some other controllers. The adhesive dot may even be able to cover some of the pad and make them less sensitive to diagonals but these don't have redundant areas where you could cover the innermost part like some 8BitDo controllers. :(

I took a peek inside... just like Steven here said, the hole for the controller cord isn't big enough for a board swap. The board itself fits perfectly with all the same alignment pegs and such, but even if you widened the hole or stripped the cable insulation to fit it, it wouldn't work right.

The Run and Select buttons have double carbon dots that don't align right with the single contacts on an original board and even if you brought your old rubber pads with you, well, the turbo switches are redesigned with a different and more narrow position for the leaf contacts. You can't swap the turbo switches.

It does have a hole in the faceplate that could make removing the label sticker easier where my original controller did not. That would he good for my replica label sticker project. Being new it's going to be a better starting point than one of my used originals anyway but I'm still hesitant to try because any mangling and I'd have to buy a whole new TG16 Mini since they don't sell these controller designs separately.

I think I'll wait until I can get my hands on one of the controllers they do sell since I can buy another if I screw it up and then apply what I learn to sagely do the others. The thing is, I'm pretty sure my original white PCE turbo controller has a hole under the label sticker too, even though my North American TurboPad controller does not. I vividly remember seeing it in my white pad it after I had it apart for days when de-yellowing. Maybe some do and some don't depending on their manufacturing date or mold position so I need to check more of my original TurboPads.

I might see if I can get the unbranded one off the Old Skool pad, since I have extras and really don't care about sacrificing one of those. :) The SGX controller is the one I'm most apprehensive about. I definitely don't want to screw that one up just to remove it and scan it flat. We'll have to see how the other go.

I plan to use heat and solvents (Goo-Gone, WD-40, etc) to see if I can get them to lift off. That means I'll need to re-adhere them with fresh adhesive which will probably be the spray-on stuff from 3M.

Yay, mini get!! (For you, anyway, since I've had mine for some time.)

 

I've been thinking about getting the CoreGrafx mini for some reason. I have absolutely no need for it, but maybe I'll get one.

 

It seems your controller has the opposite problem that my turbo controller has. What's worse, overly sensitive diagonals or not having diagonals at all? I'd say they are equally terrible. My Run and Select buttons did actually work when I took the mini controller's PCB and put it in my CoreGrafx controller's shell, by the way, but like you noticed, the turbo doesn't work so there really isn't much of a point.

 

For the SuperGrafx controller, it's the same as the CoreGrafx controller and those are extremely easy to find. I see tons of them, so maybe if you need one I can go grab one for you. I'm going to Akiba in about an hour to look for Saturns, anyway, so I'll compare prices on CoreGrafx controllers. I do recall seeing a hole inside one of the controllers that I disassembled, by the way, but I don't remember which one it was. I think it was probably the mini's controller, so if it really came to it, you could sacrifice a mini controller to get the faceplate for the clear controller.

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3 hours ago, Steven Pendleton said:

I've been thinking about getting the CoreGrafx mini for some reason. I have absolutely no need for it, but maybe I'll get one.

If you do, you'd better not get it before I get mine, or I'll be very upset. 😭

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1 hour ago, roots.genoa said:

If you do, you'd better not get it before I get mine, or I'll be very upset. 😭

Lol don't worry, I'm not getting it any time soon since I just spent $400 on Saturn and Neo Geo crap today.

 

And guess what? I forgot Appare! Gateball again even though I had it in my hand.

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Yay, mini get!! (For you, anyway, since I've had mine for some time.)
 
I've been thinking about getting the CoreGrafx mini for some reason. I have absolutely no need for it, but maybe I'll get one.
 
It seems your controller has the opposite problem that my turbo controller has. What's worse, overly sensitive diagonals or not having diagonals at all? I'd say they are equally terrible. My Run and Select buttons did actually work when I took the mini controller's PCB and put it in my CoreGrafx controller's shell, by the way, but like you noticed, the turbo doesn't work so there really isn't much of a point.
 
For the SuperGrafx controller, it's the same as the CoreGrafx controller and those are extremely easy to find. I see tons of them, so maybe if you need one I can go grab one for you. I'm going to Akiba in about an hour to look for Saturns, anyway, so I'll compare prices on CoreGrafx controllers. I do recall seeing a hole inside one of the controllers that I disassembled, by the way, but I don't remember which one it was. I think it was probably the mini's controller, so if it really came to it, you could sacrifice a mini controller to get the faceplate for the clear controller.


Yeah. I was thinking about how yours barely showed any diagonals while mine was so sensitive that Richter would start walking left, up the stairs, when I pressed right (or vice versa) or would frequently use and item when I was just walking along whipping something. The thing is, I have some original controllers where diagonals behave much like your Mini's controller...

When I first tested an Old Skool controller over a year ago I tried to do some moves in Street Fighter II' Champion Edition. Hadouken, Hurricane Kicks, and Shoryukens were easy to pull off but as soon as I switched to an original pad I could only get one or two per match before the time ran out. It was comical just how bad it was! I even gave the controller to a friend and let him try just to prove it wasnt just me and he only got one hadouken before the time ran out. As soon as I switched back to the Old Skool controller I could do them just fine even though it has one of those crappy D-Pads that pushes down in the middle.

I only had one original TurboPad at the time but now I have three plus some Japanese pads. I recall at least one other American TurboPad gave me similar trouble in SFII'CE and the other was only a little better, so it possibly has something to do with wear/break-in even though all felt perfectly fine in games like Dracula X.

Yeah, the CoreGrafx/SuperGrafx had the same controller but I only have one and it is boxed with the SGX. It's in such good condition I can bring myself to risk cosmetic damage by peeling the overlay sticker. I really wish they sold the Mini controller designs separately! I'd buy them all.

Also, the Duo Pad in Japan has the same design without the PI-PD6 marking so scanning that one would kill two birds with one stone. :) Does the CoreGrafx Mini still say "PI-PD6" on the controller?

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Posted (edited)
44 minutes ago, CZroe said:


 

 


Yeah. I was thinking about how yours barely showed any diagonals while mine was so sensitive that Richter would start walking left, up the stairs, when I pressed right (or vice versa) or would frequently use and item when I was just walking along whipping something. The thing is, I have some original controllers where diagonals behave much like your Mini's controller...

When I first tested an Old Skool controller over a year ago I tried to do some moves in Street Fighter II' Champion Edition. Hadouken, Hurricane Kicks, and Shoryukens were easy to pull off but as soon as I switched to an original pad I could only get one or two per match before the time ran out. It was comical just how bad it was! I even gave the controller to a friend and let him try just to prove it wasnt just me and he only got one hadouken before the time ran out. As soon as I switched back to the Old Skool controller I could do them just fine even though it has one of those crappy D-Pads that pushes down in the middle.

I only had one original TurboPad at the time but now I have three plus some Japanese pads. I recall at least one other American TurboPad gave me similar trouble in SFII'CE and the other was only a little better, so it possibly has something to do with wear/break-in even though all felt perfectly fine in games like Dracula X.

Yeah, the CoreGrafx/SuperGrafx had the same controller but I only have one and it is boxed with the SGX. It's in such good condition I can bring myself to risk cosmetic damage by peeling the overlay sticker. I really wish they sold the Mini controller designs separately! I'd buy them all.

Also, the Duo Pad in Japan has the same design without the PI-PD6 marking so scanning that one would kill two birds with one stone. :) Does the CoreGrafx Mini still say "PI-PD6" on the controller?

I've also got a problem with diagonals on one of my original controllers, and I'm pretty sure it's the CoreGrafx controller since I never use it. It's the up-right diagonal that mostly doesn't work properly, just like on the mini's turbo controller. That's part of the reason that I use the Avenue Pad 3 almost exclusively; not only does it have the most useful functionality, it has the best d-pad of my 3 controllers. I don't really like the typical squishy PC Engine d-pads at all and the Avenue Pad 3 thankfully does not have a d-pad like that. I think that PC Engine d-pads are just either super terrible or borderline adequately functional, and which type you get is up to luck.

 

My regular non-turbo PC Engine mini controller's d-pad was mostly fine, so maybe I should do some controller surgery to see what happens.

 

I checked real CoreGrafx/SuperGrafx controllers today. They are about 3000 yen each everywhere and there are a ton of them. That's typical PC Engine controller pricing, though.

 

It seems all of the mini controllers lack the proper model number marking on the front. Maybe this has something to do with the removal of all of the NEC aspects of the system. The PC Engine mini lacks the NEC logos on it, and I'm guessing that those model number markings had something to do with NEC.

Edited by Steven Pendleton

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I've also got a problem with diagonals on one of my original controllers, and I'm pretty sure it's the CoreGrafx controller since I never use it. It's the up-right diagonal that mostly doesn't work properly, just like on the mini's turbo controller. That's part of the reason that I use the Avenue Pad 3 almost exclusively; not only does it have the most useful functionality, it has the best d-pad of my 3 controllers. I don't really like the typical squishy PC Engine d-pads at all and the Avenue Pad 3 thankfully does not have a d-pad like that. I think that PC Engine d-pads are just either super terrible or borderline adequately functional, and which type you get is up to luck.
 
My regular non-turbo PC Engine mini controller's d-pad was mostly fine, so maybe I should do some controller surgery to see what happens.
 
I checked real CoreGrafx/SuperGrafx controllers today. They are about 3000 yen each everywhere and there are a ton of them. That's typical PC Engine controller pricing, though.
 
It seems all of the mini controllers lack the proper model number marking on the front. Maybe this has something to do with the removal of all of the NEC aspects of the system. The PC Engine mini lacks the NEC logos on it, and I'm guessing that those model number markings had something to do with NEC.


Probably. The NEC logo is also the whole reason RetroGameRestore is selling the controller shells without a sticker overlay so not having one is probably even better for this purpose. :)

If the CoreGrafx Mini weren't identical to the TG16 Mini I'd consider grabbing it to complement my TG16 Mini but a white PC Engine Mini makes more sense from my situation. Maybe someone in a facebook group will be bold enough to remove and scan that one for me. :) I already got some great advice there for making controller overlays!

Thanks for looking into it for me. Yeah, that's about the cheapest I could find on eBay too except for a Canadian seller with junk controllers where shipping kills the deal.

I'll get these overlay stickers made somehow. :)

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2 minutes ago, CZroe said:

 


Probably. The NEC logo is also the whole reason RetroGameRestore is selling the controller shells without a sticker overlay so not having one is probably even better for this purpose. :)

If the CoreGrafx Mini weren't identical to the TG16 Mini I'd consider grabbing it to complement my TG16 Mini but a white PC Engine Mini makes more sense from my situation. Maybe someone in a facebook group will be bold enough to remove and scan that one for me. :) I already got some great advice there for making controller overlays!

Thanks for looking into it for me. Yeah, that's about the cheapest I could find on eBay too except for a Canadian seller with junk controllers where shipping kills the deal.

I'll get these overlay stickers made somehow. :)

Yeah, I'll be interested to see what you come up with for controller faceplates. Maybe clear will look cool, though, so maybe I'll keep it that way.

 

I've got my non-turbo mini controller plugged into my computer right now and the d-pad is fine doing the same test that the turbo controller failed so miserably at. I'm super tired and I just realized it's past midnight, so maybe later today (which means in like 22 hours if I remember to do so since that's still going to be today) I'll extract the d-pad and membrane from this controller and put it in the turbo one to see what happens.

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Yeah, I'll be interested to see what you come up with for controller faceplates. Maybe clear will look cool, though, so maybe I'll keep it that way.
 
I've got my non-turbo mini controller plugged into my computer right now and the d-pad is fine doing the same test that the turbo controller failed so miserably at. I'm super tired and I just realized it's past midnight, so maybe later today (which means in like 22 hours if I remember to do so since that's still going to be today) I'll extract the d-pad and membrane from this controller and put it in the turbo one to see what happens.
I was thinking about printing a clear screen design onto laser-printable overhead transparency film to see how that works out. I'd make the button labels solid but the background would be ~50% transparent. Best of both worlds, if it works out. I would need some double-sided optically clear adhesive sheets, which might be the hard part.

The final result would be a multi-layer sandwich of backing paper, OCA sheet, laser-printed transparency sheet, and adhesive polycarbonate laminating sheet.

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11 hours ago, CZroe said:

I was thinking about printing a clear screen design onto laser-printable overhead transparency film to see how that works out. I'd make the button labels solid but the background would be ~50% transparent. Best of both worlds, if it works out. I would need some double-sided optically clear adhesive sheets, which might be the hard part.

The final result would be a multi-layer sandwich of backing paper, OCA sheet, laser-printed transparency sheet, and adhesive polycarbonate laminating sheet.

Well, post pictures of whatever do do! Hopefully we can find something nice for it. Still need to get a logo for the system itself, too.

 

I did my controller surgery. I think I might have accidentally mixed up the d-pad membranes, but it doesn't seem to matter since both controllers seem to work perfectly now that they have the other's d-pad and maybe membrane. The Select and Run buttons are still ass, but those are not as important as the d-pad.

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Got my Mini today, and had a question.  I posted int he "mini" thread, but Steven Pendleton suggested it might be best here, since it's more active --

 

 

On the PC Engine menu -- anyone know the meaning of the different colors behind "HuCard" near the bottom left?  For example --

 

Fantasy Zone -- HuCARD with a Purple background

 

Gradius -- HuCARD with a Red background

 

Bomberman 94 -- HuCARD with a Light Blue background

 

Dungeon Explorer -- HuCARD with a Dark Blue background

 

Ninja Ryukenden -- HuCARD with a longer Light Blue background

 

 

Thanks!

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Everyone getting their TG Mini made me wonder WHERE THE HECK IS MINE?? So I checked Amazon and it says it was delivered yesterday! (memorial day). So here it is 11pm on Tuesday, I open the front door and lo and behold there it was.. sitting at my door for almost 2 days. :lol:  Glad I finally got it.

 

 

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I'm fishing here, but Bomberman 94 the light blue is also on the spine art of my game I'm looking at right now on the shelf.  The top notch where it says HUCARD is as such, then transitions to white with black text for the title.

 

I've been wondering and trying a couple times recently to figure out things, but I don't see 100% pattern if there is one.  I do notice that a light lavender blue goes for Naxat Soft, a hard purple for AV released titles, Hudson went with a mid-level blue.  Hucards had quite a few colors, then there was Namco that stuck I think uniformly with red and writing their name not hucard at the top of the spine.

 

Optical though, the colors to correspond with the style of media it has (CD, SCD, SCD2.)  CDROM2 = Green, SCD2 = Pinkish/Purple.

 

Do you see any of those relatable colors on the HuCard releases?

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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, NE146 said:

Everyone getting their TG Mini made me wonder WHERE THE HECK IS MINE?? So I checked Amazon and it says it was delivered yesterday! (memorial day). So here it is 11pm on Tuesday, I open the front door and lo and behold there it was.. sitting at my door for almost 2 days. :lol:  Glad I finally got it.

 

 

Lol this made me laugh. You're lucky that nobody stole it! Hope you have fun with it.

7 minutes ago, Tanooki said:

I'm fishing here, but Bomberman 94 the light blue is also on the spine art of my game I'm looking at right now on the shelf.  The top notch where it says HUCARD is as such, then transitions to white with black text for the title.

 

I've been wondering and trying a couple times recently to figure out things, but I don't see 100% pattern if there is one.  I do notice that a light lavender blue goes for Naxat Soft, a hard purple for AV released titles, Hudson went with a mid-level blue.  Hucards had quite a few colors, then there was Namco that stuck I think uniformly with red and writing their name not hucard at the top of the spine.

 

Optical though, the colors to correspond with the style of media it has (CD, SCD, SCD2.)  CDROM2 = Green, SCD2 = Pinkish/Purple.

 

Do you see any of those relatable colors on the HuCard releases?

Yeah, I mentioned this exact thing over in the TG-16 mini thread, but the only HuCARD games with consistency are the Namco(t) games. All 3 of my SuperGrafx games have the thing in blue. Battle Ace is a lighter blue than Aldynes or Madou King Granzort, though. Maybe it's faded, but I'm not sure. The only other HuCARDs I have are the Ten no Koe Bank, which has it in red, and Dragon Spirit, which of course has NAMCOT on it in red. The only other HuCARD I have is Bomberman, but I only have the card for that one and not the case or anything else.

 

...and I just realized that I have more SuperGrafx games than regular PC Engine HuCARD games. Not sure how I feel about that...

Edited by Steven Pendleton
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"CHEAP" 1941 COUNTER ATTACK SPOTTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I found a copy in Trader today for "only" 61800 yen (not including 10% sales tax). I inspected it and it's beautiful. Missing the original sleeve for the HuCARD and I forgot to check for the hagaki, but everything is super beautiful from the almost untouched HuCARD to the outer case. They only got it in yesterday and only put it out today! If I hadn't spent $400 on Saturn and Neo Geo crap the other day I would have bought it without question. Then again, if I hadn't bought Saturn games, I wouldn't have gone back there today anyway.

 

So... anybody want to let me borrow $700 so I can go buy it?

 

Speaking of cases, the guy at the store and I talked about the colors on the spines, and he was just as confused by it as we all are. We think it's got something to do with the developer or the publisher, but only for regular PC Engine HuCARDs. NEC Avenue titles are purple, for example, and Namco(t) games are red, and so on. Of course, CD games and SuperGrafx games don't follow this rule since CD, Super CD, and SuperGrafx games have their own colors.

 

Also, this:

Pic_0527_329.thumb.jpg.5dbe55b3b4c588be4ad26b8555856cf6.jpg

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Look what RetroRGB/Voultar just posted!

 

https://www.retrorgb.com/hyperkin-tg-16-composite-video-adapter-analysed-spoiler-its-bad.html

 

I don't think is a surprise to anyone, of course, but it's interesting to see, especially since Hyperkin says they are looking into it now. Like Voultar said, the quality of the composite video on the PC Engine and TurboGrafx-16 is amazing for composite. RGB is better, of course, but the composite on the system is totally viable and actually rather nice looking on my 29 inch Trinitron, unlike my Mega Drive, which has crap composite. It's also better than my Super Famicom's composite, as well.

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5 hours ago, Steven Pendleton said:

Look what RetroRGB/Voultar just posted!

 

https://www.retrorgb.com/hyperkin-tg-16-composite-video-adapter-analysed-spoiler-its-bad.html

 

I don't think is a surprise to anyone, of course, but it's interesting to see, especially since Hyperkin says they are looking into it now. Like Voultar said, the quality of the composite video on the PC Engine and TurboGrafx-16 is amazing for composite. RGB is better, of course, but the composite on the system is totally viable and actually rather nice looking on my 29 inch Trinitron, unlike my Mega Drive, which has crap composite. It's also better than my Super Famicom's composite, as well.

My Model 1 Genesis looks really good on my 24" Trinitron... the PC Engine does look even better though... both composite. 

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4 hours ago, DragonGrafx-16 said:

My Model 1 Genesis looks really good on my 24" Trinitron... the PC Engine does look even better though... both composite. 

You must be lucky. The composite on my Mega Drive turns the health bar in Vampire Killer into a giant rainbow-colored mess.

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8 hours ago, Steven Pendleton said:

You must be lucky. The composite on my Mega Drive turns the health bar in Vampire Killer into a giant rainbow-colored mess.

Oh mine does that a bit... but it's not as noticeable on a smaller screen... it's much worse on a CRT with huge color bars... it was real bad on one of my relative's 32" RCA TV...

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I don't know if this has been mentioned around here yet...Perhaps earlier in the thread somewhere, but Hyperkin makes a Turbografx and PC Engine controller!    And It's Hyperkin! YAY!  (They have definitely Not let me down like Retro Bit or even ATGames in the past)...

 

I got it but haven't had a chance to try it out yet...I'm just using the pic I used for the What did you buy today? thread, so there's some other stuff there, too.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.969381ef3e2484b5c476bbb5f975cc96.jpeg

 

$25.47 at Amazon!   Not bad at all!

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hyperkin-Specialist-Premium-Controller-Turbografx-16-Engine/dp/B0829SC9XH/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Hyperkin+The+Specialist&qid=1590989260&s=videogames&sr=1-1

 

 

71QBGP2DhgL._SL1500_.jpg

 

 

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I went to BEEP today to look at X68000s (they only have a single X68030 for 178000 yen) and found Darius Alpha there 298000 yen next to their PC Engine LT, which is 589000 yen. They also had a Magical Chase, but I forget how much it was. They also had a modified PC Engine GT with a bigger screen, but I forgot the price on that one, too.

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