MicroByte Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 I thought I'd take a long shot and see if anyone experienced a problem with their Lynx where it powers on, the screen lights up, but it doesn't start. Here's a video of what's going on: https://youtu.be/GrNdlwPiMbg I also noticed that the volume control seems to work, I can hear a difference in volume through the speaker and headphones, but the brightness control doesn't seem to adjust the screen. Any ideas Or is this a lost cause? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 (edited) Video is private. Mine had a similar problem. I got a replacement for my childhood Lynx in 2006. Played some Ninja Gaidan and Pacland. Worked great. Placed it in the carry bag and forgot about it. Turned it on again in 2012. No dice. White screen of death... Edited April 22, 2015 by stardust4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirlynxalot Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Maybe there are some bad caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busterm Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Have you tried cleaning the pin's. Bad contact can cause that behavior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Bad pins will give you black screen. Get an AC/DC adapter that lets you select voltage. Set it at 6V and see if that works. I bet you your zenor diode popped sending 9V on the 5V rail causing cpu / gpu shutdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroByte Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Thank you so much everyone for your replies! I'll pick up an A/C adapter and see of that makes a difference. One question, when you say pins, you mean the battery contacts, right? I thought about pulling those and letting them soak in vinegar to get whatever corrosion is on there off. Anyways, thanks again everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) Maybe there are some bad caps? Were bad caps a known problem with Lynx? Why is it all the 80s consoles still run flawless but most early 90s hardware fizzles out? @Microbyte: those are the exact same symptoms my Lynx has. Small pop when you turn it on or off. White screen of death. No audio, no video. It worked great circa 2006, then a few years later I turned it on and nothing... Edited April 23, 2015 by stardust4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Bad pins will give you black screen. Get an AC/DC adapter that lets you select voltage. Set it at 6V and see if that works. I bet you your zenor diode popped sending 9V on the 5V rail causing cpu / gpu shutdown. Did Lynx really use a Zener Diode instead of a proper 7805 as a voltage regulator? That's not only a dangerous way to build a circuit, but the diode will get hot and drain a metric ton of current. Right before the batteries died in my old childhood Lynx, the console would get ridiculously hot. I used to throw the hot batteries in a ziplock baggie and stick it in the ice chest to cool them off during family vacations, just to get another 5-10 minutes play out of it before my dad pulled into a convenience store to buy more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) Were bad caps a known problem with Lynx? Why is it all the 80s consoles still run flawless but 90s hardware goes out? @Microbyte: those are the exact same symptoms my Lynx has. Small pop when you turn it on or off. White screen. No audio, no video. It worked great, then a couple years later I turned it on and nothing... 80's console had maybe 10 at most. 2600 has only 1 major cap that can cause problem when it goes. Also 80's console ran at a few MHz so not as much oscillation for the caps to absorb and keep out of the power rails. 90's cap: faster manufacturing, less quality control, lots more needed, and faster hardware = more oscillations. I recapped a TurboCD base system and it had around 50 caps. 50 frickin' caps to make battery backed save and CD interface run clean. I haven't recapped the CD itself but it's also around 50 caps. Game Gear, Turbo DUO (all black systems), Turbo handhelds, and a few others also suffers from unusually high failure rate. Then there's the infamous cap plague of 2000 caused by stolen and incomplete formula for electrolytic cap and it's still ongoing even today. Did Lynx really use a Zener Diode instead of a proper 7805 as a voltage regulator? That's not only a dangerous way to build a circuit, but the diode will get hot and drain a metric ton of current. Right before the batteries died in my old childhood Lynx, the console would get ridiculously hot. I used to throw the hot batteries in a ziplock baggie and stick it in the ice chest to cool them off during family vacations, just to get another 5-10 minutes play out of it before my dad pulled into a convenience store to buy more... YES!! Lynx had a bit of an odd design to get soft power mode. Power is continuously fed into Lynx all the way to the FET that turns on ground (and separate IC 4069 plus a few component are always ON in order to toggle on/off mode). The 5v regulator is just a single transistor and a 4.3v zener diode in emitter-follower design. (4.3v diode is used because it becomes 5v when you account for 0.7v drop from base to emitter) If that one fails, there's nothing to prevent excess voltage from going through the system. Also it's dumping anything over 5v to ground so it's a bit inefficient. emitter-follower is cheap for small device but not good for efficiency. That's why there are the 5v mod (see my thread asking about it) and replaced a few parts. I used a switching 7805 substitute for lower heat and better efficiency. Another 5v regulator used for lipo works on stock Lynx but not one modded with new LCD. Move a diode, remove a transistor, inductors, and 2 other diodes, reroute battery + contact so it connects before and not after regulator, and install decent 5v regulator. Another nitpick about Lynx power design, because it's always drawing a few mA to maintain a few component for power on/off mode, batteries can't be left in a Lynx too long as it'd be drained dry on its own. EDIT: I checked, I am drawing about 0.5mA from the batteries while Lynx is off so it'll be slow death but still compared to TurboExpress and Game Gear which uses mechanical switch and no slow power drain... Edited April 23, 2015 by 7800fan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) 80's console had maybe 10 at most. 2600 has only 1 major cap that can cause problem when it goes. Also 80's console ran at a few MHz so not as much oscillation for the caps to absorb and keep out of the power rails. 90's cap: faster manufacturing, less quality control, lots more needed, and faster hardware = more oscillations. I recapped a TurboCD base system and it had around 50 caps. 50 frickin' caps to make battery backed save and CD interface run clean. I haven't recapped the CD itself but it's also around 50 caps. Game Gear, Turbo DUO (all black systems), Turbo handhelds, and a few others also suffers from unusually high failure rate. Then there's the infamous cap plague of 2000 caused by stolen and incomplete formula for electrolytic cap and it's still ongoing even today. YES!! Lynx had a bit of an odd design to get soft power mode. Power is continuously fed into Lynx all the way to the FET that turns on ground (and separate IC 4069 plus a few component are always ON in order to toggle on/off mode). The 5v regulator is just a single transistor and a 4.3v zener diode in emitter-follower design. (4.3v diode is used because it becomes 5v when you account for 0.7v drop from base to emitter) If that one fails, there's nothing to prevent excess voltage from going through the system. Also it's dumping anything over 5v to ground so it's a bit inefficient. emitter-follower is cheap for small device but not good for efficiency. That's why there are the 5v mod (see my thread asking about it) and replaced a few parts. I used a switching 7805 substitute for lower heat and better efficiency. Another 5v regulator used for lipo works on stock Lynx but not one modded with new LCD. Move a diode, remove a transistor, inductors, and 2 other diodes, reroute battery + contact so it connects before and not after regulator, and install decent 5v regulator. Another nitpick about Lynx power design, because it's always drawing a few mA to maintain a few component for power on/off mode, batteries can't be left in a Lynx too long as it'd be drained dry on its own. So the million dollar question I've got to ask here... I assume when the Zener diode fails, you get full unregulated adapter ~9V input supplied to VCC. Would this not fry both the CPU and GPU? So can the "white screen of death" be repaired, or is it toast??? EDIT: Interesting read on the Capacitor Plague. I had a PSU fail on me in 2002. The cap exploded and there was a bang and flash of light (I kept the cover off for ventallation so I heard the bang and saw the flash). I replaced the PSU and the motherboard miraculously lived on... Edited April 23, 2015 by stardust4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+karri Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 That's why there are the 5v mod (see my thread asking about it) and replaced a few parts. I used a switching 7805 substitute for lower heat and better efficiency. Another 5v regulator used for lipo works on stock Lynx but not one modded with new LCD. Move a diode, remove a transistor, inductors, and 2 other diodes, reroute battery + contact so it connects before and not after regulator, and install decent 5v regulator. Have you measured how much power the modded Lynx needs? I already got a dual switching regulator. On part switching up and one down. The idea was to exhaust all juice from batteries even when the voltage in them drops below 5V. But they take too much space. So I will order a switching regulator from RS. Traco makes very good quality DC-DC converters and I thought of buying a TSR 1-2450. It costs 6.70 €. It is a bit higher than the 0.64 € for a 7805. I just wonder if 5V/1A is enough? If not, then Recom has a 1.5A model for 10 €. But I have not used Recom in the past. 7800fan, do you have a suggestion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+karri Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 So the million dollar question I've got to ask here... I assume when the Zener diode fails, you get full unregulated adapter ~9V input supplied to VCC. Would this not fry both the CPU and GPU? So can the "white screen of death" be repaired, or is it toast??? Overvoltage is likely to break TTL chips first. The MOS chips are likely to survive. The "good" thing is that a broken TTL chip often acts as a short after breaking down. So it will let the current flow to ground thus protecting the rest of the chips. Finding the fried chip is also quite easy. Usually it cracks and lets the magic of the chip out in form of blue smoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Have you measured how much power the modded Lynx needs? I already got a dual switching regulator. On part switching up and one down. The idea was to exhaust all juice from batteries even when the voltage in them drops below 5V. But they take too much space. So I will order a switching regulator from RS. Traco makes very good quality DC-DC converters and I thought of buying a TSR 1-2450. It costs 6.70 €. It is a bit higher than the 0.64 € for a 7805. I just wonder if 5V/1A is enough? If not, then Recom has a 1.5A model for 10 €. But I have not used Recom in the past. 7800fan, do you have a suggestion? Stock Lynx II uses around 300mA. My Lynx with LCD and a switching 7805 substitute drew at most 310mA so any regular 1A regulator is more than enough. Overvoltage is likely to break TTL chips first. The MOS chips are likely to survive. The "good" thing is that a broken TTL chip often acts as a short after breaking down. So it will let the current flow to ground thus protecting the rest of the chips. Finding the fried chip is also quite easy. Usually it cracks and lets the magic of the chip out in form of blue smoke. Try with 6v adapter or use 'AA' batteries with 2 dead batteries (so the total is around 6v) and see if your Lynx works. If it still works, you're in luck. If it still doesn't work, wither one of the chip is fried or the problem is not in voltage regulator but elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) Stock Lynx II uses around 300mA. My Lynx with LCD and a switching 7805 substitute drew at most 310mA so any regular 1A regulator is more than enough. Try with 6v adapter or use 'AA' batteries with 2 dead batteries (so the total is around 6v) and see if your Lynx works. If it still works, you're in luck. If it still doesn't work, wither one of the chip is fried or the problem is not in voltage regulator but elsewhere. The 5V PSU that came with my SupaBoy has a similar tip to the Linx. I'm hoping it fits. Barrel is too short so I had to remove the Lynx case to fit the adapter. Zero evidence of burnt chips. Nothing on 5V regulated, or with 4, 5, or 6 AA batteries installed (I used a slug out of aluminum foil to replace the batteries). Powers on and off just like in the OP, no video, no sound. Edited April 23, 2015 by stardust4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Another nitpick about Lynx power design, because it's always drawing a few mA to maintain a few component for power on/off mode, batteries can't be left in a Lynx too long as it'd be drained dry on its own. EDIT: I checked, I am drawing about 0.5mA from the batteries while Lynx is off so it'll be slow death but still compared to TurboExpress and Game Gear which uses mechanical switch and no slow power drain... One thing I also forgot. The power draw is continuous only when there's a cart. If you're too lazy to take the batteries out, take the cart out. The power to the 4069 chip are fed through 2 pins in the cart slot. It's also why Lynx will not power up without a cart! With the cart inserted, it connects the VCC source through the cart to the one chip to power it on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) I'm bumping this. Can someone point me to a location to test the +5 VCC on the MoBoard? I may try to bypass the regulator with a 5V regulated source to see if I get a signal. Nothing I can do or any input voltage between 5-9V at the adapter plug / battery bay will make this contraption work. Powers on/off but with no picture/sound. No evidence of burnt chips either. It ran flawless when I last played it in 2007. Dead with blank screen in 2012. I looked on eBay and both Lynx models have gotten expensive over the past few years. Edited May 4, 2015 by stardust4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 (edited) I just "won" a new well new to me Lynx I with Ms Pacman for $51 on eBay. Got lucky given what these are selling for nowadays. Hopefully third time's a charm. If anyone wants my "dead" Lynx to try and revive it, I can ship it to them for the price of postage. I'm tired of fooling with it. I'll post in marketplace after I confirm the new one working. Be advised the Lynx does have some cosmetic damage to the paint job and the screen has some pits around the edges. Edited June 10, 2015 by stardust4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johannesmutlu Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 What i got sometimes is, when i hit power on,it will not power on untill i toggle the cartride other times it will power on but nothing happens or i got the massage "insert game",but again when am toggle cartride and it works,so what i dit was clean those games with alcohol using q tips and now they work contstantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 It's not dirty connectors, I can assure you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Is it a Lynx 1 or 2? How much to ship to UK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizmo132 Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 If you still have the "dead" lynx, I'd be willing to take it off your hands and tinker with it. I'd be more than cover postage and a bit extra also. I'm just getting back into collecting, and Have been looking for some fixer uppers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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