My component modded 7800 won't play 2600 games anymore

[thursday83]

Anyone have this problem? They fire up fine, and within 10-60 seconds they falter and scramble. EVERY 2600 game, doesn't matter if it's classic or new homebrew. All 7800 games functioning fine, classic or new homebrew.

 

My apologies if this thread has been brought up previously, I did a search and could not find anything on the subject. But maybe I did not search thoroughly enough.

 

Thanks and Moon Cresta rules,

 

Thursday83

[AtariBrian]

Thanks and Moon Cresta rules,

 

Thursday83

 

 

No , Failsafe and Circus Atariage rule even more

 

 

[Shawn]

 

 

No , Failsafe and Circus Atariage rule even more

 

 

 

No, sucking Bob's ...er...ya...those games are great!

[+Trebor]

Anyone have this problem? They fire up fine, and within 10-60 seconds they falter and scramble. EVERY 2600 game, doesn't matter if it's classic or new homebrew. All 7800 games functioning fine, classic or new homebrew.

 

Don't have and never had the problem, but thinking a possible failing TIA chip.

 

The 7800 portion only requires TIA for sound. The TIA video portion could be the only piece affected right now, which would do nothing to 7800 games, but would cause issues with all 2600 titles.

[thursday83]

Hmmmm...thank you Trebor. Which essentially means an entire replacement for me....I would assume....XM's arrival won't change anything there....dammit.

[Greg2600]

When Yurkie composite modded my 7800, he installed a switch for 2600 games. It's required, because there's obviously some setting on the AV mod board that isn't compatible with 2600 mode.

[+phoenixdownita]

The switch on the input from the TIA is just to suppress the noise it generates when on 7800 mode.

It's really nasty on a SVideo, I had done the same myself but it has nothing to do with compat.

 

Now the OP talks about component mod not composite or SVideo , so I am not sure we're talking about the same thing here (I didn't even know there was a component mod)

Edited May 20, 2015 by phoenixdownita

[CPUWIZ]

I think that he meant to type composite.

[+GoldenWheels]

I think that he meant to type composite.

 

I was gonna say...i didn't think you could get component out of a 7800. But then I remembered what I don't understand technically, could fill an ark.

 

Composite and S video is best you can do...right?

[thursday83]

Composite, yes. My bad. So I gotta buy a "new" one, correct?

[JagCD]

 

I was gonna say...i didn't think you could get component out of a 7800. But then I remembered what I don't understand technically, could fill an ark.

 

Composite and S video is best you can do...right?

 

No way, dudes.... My 7800 is doing 4k through my HDMI 2.0a mod.

 

(Please don't take me seriously..... Reality: it's a Best composite modded 7800)

[+GoldenWheels]

I have to get an av modded one. Been thinking about it for two years but it's just as fun on RF, I've always considered the 7800 RF pretty good (compared to say, my Colecos or my old TG16) and I can always find something else to spend that money on. Someday.

 

I have what I feel is a stupid question though....I love Joust on the 7800 with my CRT for it's awesome, perfect, physics...but also for the nice crt "trails" it leaves on the black background (don't ask, I just like it). If I go from RF to Composite...will I lose the trails? Or is that a function of the CRT more than the signal?

Edited May 29, 2015 by GoldenWheels

[78001987]

Pretty sure that's the drugs.

[Andromeda Stardust]

I have to get an av modded one. Been thinking about it for two years but it's just as fun on RF, I've always considered the 7800 RF pretty good (compared to say, my Colecos or my old TG16) and I can always find something else to spend that money on. Someday.

 

I have what I feel is a stupid question though....I love Joust on the 7800 with my CRT for it's awesome, perfect, physics...but also for the nice crt "trails" it leaves on the black background (don't ask, I just like it). If I go from RF to Composite...will I lose the trails? Or is that a function of the CRT more than the signal?

Funny you mention TG-16 having bad RF as my Turbo has the cleanest RF output of any of my consoles. For best results, skip the manual/auto AV switches and use an RCA to Coax adapter to directly connect the console to TV. If you use an RCA cable to connect the console, make sure to use a premium "digital" shielded RCA (typically orange tip) as these have balanced impedance. Better if you plug the adapter on the console side and use the good old cheap RG6 or RG59 coax, as these will have proper 75 ohm impedance. "Digital" RCA cables are typically 50 ohm when used for RF applications. The 5V DC bias present in post-crash non-Atari consoles (used to operate the Nintendo/Sega style autoswitch) will be safely filtered out of the signal by components inside the TV set.

 

 

You won't lose trails as they are inherent to CRT design and not affected by inputs. Skip the presets. For best arcade-like results, turn the contrast and brightness up to 100% then adjust the black level down just so the black backgrounds are pure black, but no lower. Leave hue and saturation centered. Some sets have brightness and contrast but no separate black level setting, so in case your set is like this, set contrast to 100% and turn the brightness down one notch at a time until the black background becomes black. Phospher trails should really pop now. Best if you only use said TV for games as normal video ie TV/movies may be a bit bright and garish on the eyes in a darkened room. Retro games are not live action footage thus are best viewed under different settings. Unless you're watching analog source such as VHS or Laser Disc, you might as well use an LCD for regular viewing as you'll get better picture and spare the CRT from excess wear.

Edited May 30, 2015 by stardust4ever

[+GoldenWheels]

Funny you mention TG-16 having bad RF as my Turbo has the cleanest RF output of any of my consoles. For best results, skip the manual/auto AV switches and use an RCA to Coax adapter to directly connect the console to TV. If you use an RCA cable to connect the console, make sure to use a premium "digital" shielded RCA (typically orange tip) as these have balanced impedance. Better if you plug the adapter on the console side and use the good old cheap RG6 or RG59 coax, as these will have proper 75 ohm impedance. "Digital" RCA cables are typically 50 ohm when used for RF applications. The 5V DC bias present in post-crash non-Atari consoles (used to operate the Nintendo/Sega style autoswitch) will be safely filtered out of the signal by components inside the TV set.

 

 

You won't lose trails as they are inherent to CRT design and not affected by inputs. Skip the presets. For best arcade-like results, turn the contrast and brightness up to 100% then adjust the black level down just so the black backgrounds are pure black, but no lower. Leave hue and saturation centered. Some sets have brightness and contrast but no separate black level setting, so in case your set is like this, set contrast to 100% and turn the brightness down one notch at a time until the black background becomes black. Phospher trails should really pop now. Best if you only use said TV for games as normal video ie TV/movies may be a bit bright and garish on the eyes in a darkened room. Retro games are not live action footage thus are best viewed under different settings. Unless you're watching analog source such as VHS or Laser Disc, you might as well use an LCD for regular viewing as you'll get better picture and spare the CRT from excess wear.

 

Well I didn't say it was bad really...I indicated my TG isn't as good as my 7800, which it isn't. My 7800s RF is damn good IMO. My TG was what I considered average I guess...static and some ghosting. I have/had 3 Colecos....I'd call the RF damn bad on those, though I may just be unlucky as these things seem to age differently and all of them were kinda beat.

 

I have been off of manual switch boxes for years and have tried both kinds of adapters--since I didn't like daisy chaining the RFs systems via RG6 (seem to cause issues as at the time I had multiple RF systems) I went to the other adapter on the TV end and RCAs for a while but now am just trying to get the systems modded (7800, someday) or getting an aftermarket AV cable (my TG-16, done) or just eliminating an RF system (sorry Intellivision, no room for you!)

 

It's nice to know the trails won't be lost, thanks, I was hoping it was a CRT thing only--but I'm not messing with the TV settings....Joust looks great now and so do the other 5 systems hooked up to the Wega. I ain't rocking the boat.

Edited May 31, 2015 by GoldenWheels

[Andromeda Stardust]

My TV is no WEGA, but with a few tweaks, you canturn a good display into a great display. Worse case senario, if you mess up the picture, just hit the reset button on the remote or center all the controls.