Jag console DOA u38 repair service

[onalok]

Hello all,

I am now offering repair service for the dreaded blown u38 doa Jaguars. This is the number one cause of "no power" on Jag's. Thanks to very good (and a bit expensive) rework equipment (hot air station) I am currently having about a 50% success rate of repairing consoles with blown u38 ic's. I am offering the service for $40 here on AA (will be $50 on ebay) and that includes return shipping. The u38 costs me $9.99 from BEST and are "new, old stock" as some of you may know. Capacitor and a few other parts can be added if needed to the repair for an extra $5. You will be notified if such is needed for your system. I will be contacting BEST today to notify them of the specs for this repair because I know they have never had success with this and they are my parts supplier so, they get to know and it should make all of you feel a little better about this. If the repair is un-successful, you will be refunded $30 of the amount and the remaining $10 will be used to return your console. Feel free to contact me here via PM or email me at ncc941@mail.com. I think this is a fair price for the service being as how good SMT equipment costs are not cheap. Thanks, Nicholas Coale -onalok.

 

[omf]

im sorry to say you have been shafted repeatedly if you paid that from best!

see here:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/buck-boost-switching-regulators/0464338/

 

i also think you over spent on your equipment, i have changed several u38's and i have never needed anything more than a descent soldering iron and small clippers to cut the dead chip from its legs

sometimes soldering the new chip in again is a bit of a pain but its definitely doable without the expense of a heat gun

 

or maybe i have had more soldering experience than most?

 

i have to date had 100% success in doing this though so i must be doing something correct:)

[mickcris]

Yeah, Best is charging too much for that part, here are some cheaper options:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MC34163DWG/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtitjHzVIkrqdfdkrf0Qy0Q%2funB7FNylwY%3d

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC34163DWG/MC34163DWGOS-ND/920938

http://console5.com/store/mc34163dw-soic-16w-package-step-up-down-inverting-switching-regulator.html

Edited June 17, 2015 by mickcris

[+madman]

What these guys said. That regulator isn't a proprietary part, buy in bulk from a cheaper supplier. However, nice service for those who don't know how to use a soldering iron. This could save some Jags from the landfill. The less Jags in landfills, the more fume inhalers we can have entertain us on here about unharnessed 3D POWAH.

[onalok]

Price Ajustment: Now $33 for AA members with $23 refunded if unsuccessful, remaining $10 used for return shipping of unit.

 

I paid $500 US for the hot air station and its well worth it. The crappy $100 ones never get hot enough. I can actually change out Tom and Jerry if I want to and do reflows and other boards/devices as well. Some Jags will be dead completely, it depends on how high of amp/wattage the incorrect power supply is that was used HOWEVER, thanks for the advice, I will now get the chips from console 5. Thanks guys, and if anyone needs reflows or something along those lines, just let me know.

Edited June 17, 2015 by onalok

[onalok]

All Atari Jaguar repairs will remain available BUT expect delays over the next few months.

[onalok]

For Atari Jaguar Cd Games: http://www.yaronet.com/board/topic/146080

[sh3-rg]

[+CyranoJ]

I'm sure we can do better

 

[onalok]

Total transparency: Above the part is listed, here is the tool needed to actually use/replace it at WAY less than it cost me years ago. Clone Unit Works great: http://www.ebay.com/itm/898D-2in1-SMD-Rework-Soldering-Station-Hot-Air-Gun-Iron-Welder-LCD-11-Tips-/252083728044?hash=item3ab15c6eac

And the link to the u38 above is active but here it is again: http://console5.com/store/catalogsearch/result/?q=atari+u38

Also, here is the jaguar base cap kit as well: http://console5.com/store/kits/console-cap-kits/atari/atari-jaguar-cap-kit.html

Edited September 30, 2015 by onalok

[onalok]

There you go folks. If you still need me, Repair service WILL remain in effect BUT, As I have Said, Expect Delays. If you need your repair rather quickly, then tell me prior to shipping. Thanks and enjoy, nick. ALSO, If you "F-up" your system, I will still look at it, after we speak and figure out if it has any hope. Always hope it does.

[onalok]

DO NOT HOLD THE HOT AIR TIP DIRECTLY TO THE CONTACTS. USE A "SHIT PCB " TO LEARN YOUR "HAND HOLD" DISTANCE BEFORE TRYING!!!

If NOT, You WILL Burn, Overheat and otherwise fuck-up shit, practice first..... Here, i'll even give you this. use the hot air side with the smallest tip at max temp.(MAX TEMP IS 450-480 C, NOT F, OVER 1,000 DEGREES, BE CAREFULL) 75% airflow controll. Have a small pry tool or knife edge under the chip, leaning towards one side, heat that side first, it only take 10seconds or less of moving over one side OF THE SOLDER CONTACTS. With pressure under the chip, that one side should lift right off the board. A quick pass on the other side should lift the other smt points ( the other side of the chip'S SOLDER JOINTS TO THE BOARD). Use a mag lens to line up the new chip on the solder pads of the pcb, use a long tool of choice to hold chip in place once it is in place on the solder pads. Heat one side, no more than 10 sec, then the other side. Done. gO PUT AN oeM ATARI jAG POWER psu ON YOU BOARD, IF WITH A GAME INSTALLED, THE L.E.D COME ON OR YOU HAVE A DISPLAY ON TV, THEN CONGRATS, you did it>

Edited September 30, 2015 by onalok

[onalok]

And i'LL be here when all else fails. Just PM me. Later and hope that helps.

[sh3-rg]

cool blog, bro.

[+CyranoJ]

Very cool.

Edited September 30, 2015 by CyranoJ

[onalok]

WELL Thanks. I hope it helps us all and NO new solder is needed AT ALL. DO NOT ADD SOLDER TO THE PADS!!! Also, sorry for any misunderstandings. Later guys.

Edited September 30, 2015 by onalok