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Yurkie

Atari 2600 RGB mod

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No one should comment on how much is spent on a Heavy Sixer unless they know what it came with, the serial number of it, etc.

 

 

BS. Especially in a discussion about concern for value and collectiblility it is a valid point. I was responding to Rhindle's post about wanting to keep the value of the system and that he paid $300 for it. Short of boxed, complete examples there aren't many heavy sixers that should command that price. If it came with a ton of extras then maybe they had something to do with the cost but it wasn't stated in such a way to imply that.

 

FYI, I'm also a Heavy sixer fan and my primary system is one. I've also had two others that were sold so I am familiar.

Edited by Mitkraft

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There's a new one? I never saw it.

Multiple people have been posting in the old thread recently (within the last week), so I assumed it was current.

It's also the one that shows up most prominently in Google search.

What the frick? Close that sucker!

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BS. Especially in a discussion about concern for value and collectiblility it is a valid point. I was responding to Rhindle's post about wanting to keep the value of the system and that he paid $300 for it. Short of boxed, complete examples there aren't many heavy sixers that should command that price. If it came with a ton of extras then maybe they had something to do with the cost but it wasn't stated in such a way to imply that.

 

FYI, I'm also a Heavy sixer fan and my primary system is one. I've also had two others that were sold so I am familiar.

 

I already stated that I thought I may have paid too much. And I did say that the seller refurbished it.

And I call BS on the $300 CIB Heavy Sixer. That's like expecting to find a complete working Apple II (not plus) for $500.

I challenge you to find me a CIB H6er on eBay for less than $500. Oh, and find me a pair of CX-10s for less than $75 while you're at it.

 

I don't mean to be rude, and I'm sorry if I come across that way, but this is a shock to me.

You said you're familiar with pricing? Are trusted sellers on eBay really that bad?

If what you say is true, then I am super pissed at myself for being so stupid.

 

EDIT: Depending on how long ago you made those transactions, the prices may have gone up.

There have been price spikes for a lot of things lately. Mega Man on NES is now $70.

Edited by Rhindle the Dragon

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Sorry buddy, I wasn't trying to rub it in or anything. I wouldn't even have elaborated but did so as a response to being called out for talking about price. Here is a quick completed search so you can see where what you paid and what you got falls in the scale of things:

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=atari+heavy+%282600%2Csixer%29&_sop=16&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_osacat=139971&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xatari+heavy+%28vcs%2C2600%2Csixer%29.TRS0&_nkw=atari+heavy+%28vcs%2C2600%2Csixer%29&_sacat=139971

 

I already stated that I thought I may have paid too much. And I did say that the seller refurbished it.

And I call BS on the $300 CIB Heavy Sixer. That's like expecting to find a complete working Apple II (not plus) for $500.

I challenge you to find me a CIB H6er on eBay for less than $500. Oh, and find me a pair of CX-10s for less than $75 while you're at it.

 

I don't mean to be rude, and I'm sorry if I come across that way, but this is a shock to me.

You said you're familiar with pricing? Are trusted sellers on eBay really that bad?

If what you say is true, then I am super pissed at myself for being so stupid.

 

EDIT: Depending on how long ago you made those transactions, the prices may have gone up.

There have been price spikes for a lot of things lately. Mega Man on NES is now $70.

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Sorry buddy, I wasn't trying to rub it in or anything. I wouldn't even have elaborated but did so as a response to being called out for talking about price. Here is a quick completed search so you can see where what you paid and what you got falls in the scale of things:

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=atari+heavy+%282600%2Csixer%29&_sop=16&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_osacat=139971&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xatari+heavy+%28vcs%2C2600%2Csixer%29.TRS0&_nkw=atari+heavy+%28vcs%2C2600%2Csixer%29&_sacat=139971

 

 

By God. I stand corrected.

More coffee and biscuits, anyone?

 

By the way, how does publishing homebrews at AtariAge work? Is there a page on the site describing this?

I don't feel like searching through hundreds of forums just to find a list of rules.

Humor me only if you have time. It's Thanksgiving and I'm lazy.

 

EDIT: I'm also interested in knowing where the AtariAge FAQ is located.

Edited by Rhindle the Dragon

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why was this guy never a topic in this forums?!

https://www.amazon.de/Atari-Junior-Konsole-Stereo-Surround/dp/B00N1XCFXI

:ponder:

 

 

 

I hope that's not the guy that got banned from AtariAge. He was pushing a stereo surround mod service, that was crap in a ball of hot glue. He moved on to beautifying and modding and wood grain contact sticker paper, CX-40 look Pro-Line controllers, & other cringe-worthy garbage.

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I hope that's not the guy that got banned from AtariAge. He was pushing a stereo surround mod service, that was crap in a ball of hot glue. He moved on to beautifying and modding and wood grain contact sticker paper, CX-40 look Pro-Line controllers, & other cringe-worthy garbage.

It is him.

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Is there a reason for the four additional wires? Or they just couldn't fit on the flex adapter?

 

It's not the they don't fit. I need to connect to these four signals on both the TIA and the motherboard and break the connection between. This way the 2600RGB board can (slightly) modify the data that is sent to the PPU.

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Ah yes, I misread the photos. I intend to bend the pins away instead of cutting them, in case I ever need an intact TIA. I just don't like hacking ancient chips.

 

I'm very curious about the flex adapter, it would be the first time I'd work with such a thing. Last time my iron approached plastic it dug a hole in it, eh.

 

So even soldering the chip directly on your board and discarding sockets would make the mod too thick? Or was it a case of simplifying the installation and avoiding chip desoldering?

Edited by jarreboum

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Ah yes, I misread the photos. I intend to bend the pins away instead of cutting them, in case I ever need an intact TIA. I just don't like hacking ancient chips.

 

I don't recommend it. If you bend the pin away then bend it back the metal will have fatigued and the pin may break off.

 

If you are dead set on doing this make sure you remove the TIA, bend the pins, then solder it back to the motherboard.

 

I'm very curious about the flex adapter, it would be the first time I'd work with such a thing. Last time my iron approached plastic it dug a hole in it, eh.

 

It's made from high temperature polymer. You won't put your soldering iron through it any faster that you'd put it through a fibreglass PCB.

 

So even soldering the chip directly on your board and discarding sockets would make the mod too thick? Or was it a case of simplifying the installation and avoiding chip desoldering?

 

With the current PCB layout I would have had to use an adapter board. The combined height of a socket + pins + adapter board + pins + 2600RGB is too heigh to fit into the space available, even if the TIA was soldered to the 2600RGB board. The only options were to have a different board design for the Jr model or use a flexible adapter. The choice was pretty clear to me... The need to cut some chip pins is unfortunate, but it is safe and easy compared to trying to desolder the TIA.

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Sound advice, thanks!

 

Yeah, making an entirely new board just for this model would make no economical sense. I'm glad you went with the flexible adapter though, you could have told us to just use a bunch of wires instead and leave it at that.

 

Which reminds me, the FM board is a pain to install on the Master System 2, with loads of wires to solder to chip legs. Would you consider making a similar flexible adapter for that console? Mine is already modded so I'm cool with the mess I made, but it could probably help other people.

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I wonder how this works technically. Is there some kind of frame buffer involved? Or is it still racing the beam?

 

Was this question ever authoritatively answered?

 

I feel it is better to keep it in its original condition. The value is in the state count condition.

They really made the RF output clean, with rich colors -- without interference and washed out colors.

 

There's plenty of RF interference on my heavy sixer, more so than any of my other 6 Ataris, one of which is a 7800, which has the least amount of interference and the worst colors; the others are 3 light sixers and 2 4-switch woodgrains. My heavy sixer has the best colors (most saturated/vibrant), and the more saturated the colors are, the more RF interference there is (switching to black and white mode eliminates most of it). More details here.

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Was this question ever authoritatively answered?

From the 2600RGB page:

 

It works in a similar manner to my NESRGB board. That is, it sits between the CPU and TIA (the name of the Atari graphics chip) and stores the data which meant to be written to the TIA palette registers. The TIA is fed with dummy colours instead. The various luma outputs from the TIA, in addition to the colour data stored is then used to create a RGB version of the original video signal. Essentially, the board creates the RGB video signal by bypassing the colour generation logic in the TIA. The video timing is unchanged.

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I already stated that I thought I may have paid too much. And I did say that the seller refurbished it.

And I call BS on the $300 CIB Heavy Sixer. That's like expecting to find a complete working Apple II (not plus) for $500.

I challenge you to find me a CIB H6er on eBay for less than $500. Oh, and find me a pair of CX-10s for less than $75 while you're at it.

 

 

Here is both the CIB sixer and a pair of CX-10's in a barely opened box for $250 with not only a pair of CX-10's but mint hex discs to go with them cause they have never been played with.

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Here is both the CIB sixer and a pair of CX-10's in a barely opened box for $250 with not only a pair of CX-10's but mint hex discs to go with them cause they have never been played with.

Aaaaaaaaand... the listing has ended. Just goes to show how many people are watching for this stuff.

Whoever got that is lucky.

Edited by Rhindle the Dragon

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They were indeed. $250 for a CIB (maybe near NIB) with hex discs toting CX-10's is pretty impressive. I'd be crying if those were sears hex discs and I'd missed it.

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They were indeed. $250 for a CIB (maybe near NIB) with hex discs toting CX-10's is pretty impressive. I'd be crying if those were sears hex discs and I'd missed it.

 

It might have gone for a lot more money had he shown that there's actually a mint heavy sixer in the box. The box is already opened, so why not take a picture of the console itself? He says that only one end of the box was opened when he bought it. Not only is that all that's necessary to qualify as an open box item, but the other end is only "sealed" with a piece of Scotch tape, which I doubt is from the factory.

Edited by MaximRecoil

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Hi, I have installed Tim's NES RGB mod with great success and have been enjoying it for the last few months. I am currently installing Tim's Atari 2600 RGB mod into a heavy sixer and have ran into an issue that I was hoping to receive a bit of assistance with.

 

I think I am having and issue with sync as I am testing on a Sony PVM and I get an offset rolling screen. I can see the game functioning properly but the image never stabalizes. When I turn off external sync on the PVM the image stabalizes for about 3 seconds and the screen then fades to black.

 

I know I am missing something simple I am sure, I just can't figure it out and was hoping for some guidance.

 

Thanks

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Hi, I have installed Tim's NES RGB mod with great success and have been enjoying it for the last few months. I am currently installing Tim's Atari 2600 RGB mod into a heavy sixer and have ran into an issue that I was hoping to receive a bit of assistance with.

 

I think I am having and issue with sync as I am testing on a Sony PVM and I get an offset rolling screen. I can see the game functioning properly but the image never stabalizes. When I turn off external sync on the PVM the image stabalizes for about 3 seconds and the screen then fades to black.

 

I know I am missing something simple I am sure, I just can't figure it out and was hoping for some guidance.

 

Thanks

Have you hooked up any thing else and verified that RGB with Exe, snyc. is working? Are you using the same cables and ports as your NES?

Have you hooked up a genesis or an snes? Both use same RGBs wiring.

What cabling are you using to connect to the PVM?

Tims board Has 6 (the 5volts are needed for scart hookups - including some switchers) connections but 5 required for your set up - R G B CS#(sync sig.) and Ground.

http://etim.net.au/2600rgb/2600rgb_wiring.pdf

As with ALL wiring - intermittent wiring problems especially - CHECK YOU GROUNDS! and then check them again - cars, housing, electronics & ect. Most of the worst head scratchers Ive had have been ground problems.

Edited by H454

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These are in stock and available for immediate shipping. I am also offer install.

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