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[AVS] HDMI Nes


romeoteknik

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I have a couple of questions for those that got one: if you use a Famicom-to-NES adapter, would a Famicom cart fit and allow the lid to close entirely? Alternatively, can the lid be removed?

If the AVS was an alligator, the Famicom cart is the stick in it's mouth...

 

It's a hard pill to swallow! :rolling:

crocbait02.jpg

 

 

Still don't believe it's that bad? Read on...

 

Nom, nom, nom... :rolling:

avs-closed-lagrange.jpg

 

 

 

Honestly I don't care if the lid can't shut over Famicom carts though. I still love the design of this thing! :grin:

 

Edit: Whoo-Hoo, 100th reply! :grin:

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I received my AVS yesterday and finally had the chance to try it today. So far, I'm very impressed: I originally had a problem with the background showing up in light blue instead of black, but it turned out to be a TV issue. The AVS works well with the games I've tried, and I've already noticed that the sound is more accurate than other NES clones. I'm also delighted to find that the AVS is fully compatible with the Everdrive N8 cartridge. It doesn't come with its own controllers, so if you need new controllers for it, get a set of these; they're an almost perfect match for the originals.

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Unfortunately, yeah. I've got a thing for unlicensed carts. I have yet to have anyone confirm if Action 52 or other oddball carts work.

$185 isn't the end of the world, but if I'm spending that much money, I want to know it'll play ALL MY GAMES. And yes, I do pull out action 52 on occasion. Goes well with alcohol.

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I just tried the scoreboard functionality. Its not well documented in the manual but rather at a thread on NintendoAge. That said, if you follow the thread its rather intuitive and a very cool feature! The only thing that would make it better is if connectivity were built-in.

 

As for the connector issue, retroUSB is going to send out the new connectors for free so I'm not bothered at all by it. I only have a handful of Famicom games and they all work. Once I get my N8, the only carts I intend to collect are the black Tengen games and those I had as a kid.

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I received my AVS yesterday and finally had the chance to try it today. So far, I'm very impressed: I originally had a problem with the background showing up in light blue instead of black, but it turned out to be a TV issue. The AVS works well with the games I've tried, and I've already noticed that the sound is more accurate than other NES clones. I'm also delighted to find that the AVS is fully compatible with the Everdrive N8 cartridge. It doesn't come with its own controllers, so if you need new controllers for it, get a set of these; they're an almost perfect match for the originals.

I actually have a China made clone controller that is much better than the Gamerz Tech controllers. Looked identical to an original NES controller on the outside and had almost the same feel. The PCB inside was perfect strangers though and due to the lack of branding, I cannot remember where I got it.

 

I noticed the Gamerz tech removed the gray stripes from their controllers which now appear to have solid black overlays. I guess Nintendo told them to remove it? :P

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I actually have a China made clone controller that is much better than the Gamerz Tech controllers. Looked identical to an original NES controller on the outside and had almost the same feel. The PCB inside was perfect strangers though and due to the lack of branding, I cannot remember where I got it.

 

I noticed the Gamerz tech removed the gray stripes from their controllers which now appear to have solid black overlays. I guess Nintendo told them to remove it? :P

My Gamerz Tek controllers all have the gray stripes, so perhaps they've changed them since I ordered mine (about two months ago).

 

Speaking of changes ... it's difficult to discuss how the Gamerz Tek controllers compare to other third-party controllers, because they've apparently made several changes to them, and the controllers that you saw might have been a totally different iteration. Their earlier ones were a lot like the cheap third-party controllers that I've seen from Tomee and others: plastic Select and Start buttons that sat too high on the controller, stiff and clicky A and B buttons, mushy gamepad, etc. Their current controllers are much closer to the NES originals and feel almost exactly the same. StopDrop&Retro compared the two generations of controllers in his reviews of Gamerz Tek's NES clone; here is the version with the original controllers, and here are the revised controllers.

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My Gamerz Tek controllers all have the gray stripes, so perhaps they've changed them since I ordered mine (about two months ago).

 

Speaking of changes ... it's difficult to discuss how the Gamerz Tek controllers compare to other third-party controllers, because they've apparently made several changes to them, and the controllers that you saw might have been a totally different iteration. Their earlier ones were a lot like the cheap third-party controllers that I've seen from Tomee and others: plastic Select and Start buttons that sat too high on the controller, stiff and clicky A and B buttons, mushy gamepad, etc. Their current controllers are much closer to the NES originals and feel almost exactly the same. StopDrop&Retro compared the two generations of controllers in his reviews of Gamerz Tek's NES clone; here is the version with the original controllers, and here are the revised controllers.

The ones that came with my system also had the gray stripe. Maybe the new ones are solid black because Nintendo forced them to change it, IDK. But you can't go wrong at 2 for $10.

 

There's also a no name NES clone controller I own that feels almost identical to the original for $10 +s/h online. I think I may have bought it from Tototek:

http://www.tototek.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_35&products_id=189

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  • 2 weeks later...

Okay, I've started putting pennies aside for this. Is there a way to mod it for analog audio? Maybe some solder points that just happen to have been left on the board for it?

I have a device to strip audio from HDMI, but I'd rather not use it, and since I'm a projector user, the speaker in my "TV" is pretty useless.

Edited by Reaperman
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Okay, I've started putting pennies aside for this. Is there a way to mod it for analog audio? Maybe some solder points that just happen to have been left on the board for it?

I have a device to strip audio from HDMI, but I'd rather not use it, and since I'm a projector user, the speaker in my "TV" is pretty useless.

Stripping audio from the HDMI port is the only way.

 

Necessary if you have a DVI-only projector/monitor or your display supports HDMI but no pass-through. I use a Monoprice switch which features 4-in, 1-out HDMI + optical and analog pass through option. No lag since it doesn't process anything besides the audio output, and it works great with my ASUS monitor and HiFi stereo system.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5557

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Okay, I've started putting pennies aside for this. Is there a way to mod it for analog audio? Maybe some solder points that just happen to have been left on the board for it?

I have a device to strip audio from HDMI, but I'd rather not use it, and since I'm a projector user, the speaker in my "TV" is pretty useless.

 

If you want analog audio, buy a box that splits it out from the HDMI signal.

 

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=49eba1a1bf336f44511f6c58e090dcb0

 

(you can probably get them cheaper elsewhere)

 

I had to recently invest in one for my recording setup. Works as expected.

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If you want analog audio, buy a box that splits it out from the HDMI signal.

 

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=49eba1a1bf336f44511f6c58e090dcb0

 

 

 

That's close to the one I use. I bought it for Ouya (sigh). I have unfounded paranoid thoughts that it introduces lag as it processes the signal, which turned out not to really be a big concern on the system I bought it for, but it certainly would be on an actually good system, like the AVS.

 

That's why I'd rather not use them, but I will if I must.

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That's close to the one I use. I bought it for Ouya (sigh). I have unfounded paranoid thoughts that it introduces lag as it processes the signal, which turned out not to really be a big concern on the system I bought it for, but it certainly would be on an actually good system, like the AVS.

 

That's why I'd rather not use them, but I will if I must.

The pass through function does not introduce lag.

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Not sure if it was mentioned but I've bought a couple of the NES 8bitdo Bluetooth dongles (the "retro receivers" I think they call them) and the NES version of their Bluetooth gamepad. They work great with any system I try, so I'd recommend giving it a try for the AVS.

Edited by Newsdee
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Not sure if it was mentioned but I've bought a couple of the NES 8bitdo Bluetooth dongles (the "retro receivers" I think they call them) and the NES version of their Bluetooth gamepad. They work great with any system I try, so I'd recommend giving it a try for the AVS.

I actually prefer the feel of the FC30 8bitdo controller but the NES30 is also nice.

 

I downgraded the firmware on my second 8bitdo receiver to 1.1 b4 because that was the last firmware to use A and B as A and B instead of B and Y. Many classic gamers will disagree with me, but I have large thumbs and using B/Y by rocking my thumb up/down after years of side/side action playing GBA games on DS and Wii Virtual Console titles just feels ass-backwards and wrong to me.

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Y & B on Nintendo's 4 button layout is so much more natural feeling. So i don't blame them with sticking with that format.

 

Comfort and playability is far more important than having button markings match.

Unless you are far more comfortable with using the bottom and right side of the diamond. BY feels incredibly awkward to me. Maybe there's a reason why all the NES dogbone, NES Advantage, all Game Boy models have the buttons pitched such that the right button is higher than the left. GBA games played on a DS and Virtual Console on Wii/Wii-U also continued this trend. This also makes sense in arcade layouts too to have the right button pitched slightly higher since the middle finger is longer and all.

220px-NES-101-Console-Set.jpg

250px-Nintendo-NES-Advantage-Controller.

 

175px-Game-Boy-FL.png

250px-Nintendo-Game-Boy-Advance-Purple-F

 

What is common about all of those controllers/consoles? They all put the right button higher than the left. 30 years of console game development can't be wrong. I have big thumbs so rocking back and forth seems much more natural than pivoting up and down like a damn lever on a fulcrum.

 

And before anybody buts in, yes I'm aware that SNES did it in Super Mario World and DK64 used B/Y and N64/GameCube had the A/B buttons pitched the other way, but still. I always used the alternate control scheme in Super MArio All Starts...

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Nintendo's layout on something like the dogbone controller or the GBA is much more closer to a horizontal orientation than 45 degrees. And arcade sticks are a completely different animal and aren't relevant.

 

It's when tasked with using A & B simultaneously on something like the SuperNes controller or the DS where the issue begins for many, since the degree they're angled at makes it difficult to comfortably keep B depressed while using A as an action button. Take running & jumping in a Mario platformer; It's no coincidence why Mario platformers created for 4 button Nintendo systems utilize Y & B instead.

 

There's a reason why Nintendo on the Super Game Boy included an alternate controller layout for those that desired comfort over matched button letting, or why Y & B was near standard for your two primary buttons on the SuperNes and subsequent systems that copied that layout (Square & X on the Playstation equivalent and X & A on the Xbox).

 

A & B being your primary or only buttons on Nintendo's four button layout, with some occasional exceptions, has largely been the domain on Nintendo systems of 2 button Nintendo classics being played via backwards compatibility or emulation on a four button Nintendo machine that they weren't originally created for. Nintendo clearly values button clarity over playability with something like a Virtual Console download, which is why finally adding remapping features on the Wii U VC was great to see since it finally appeased everyone.

 

I think that this illustration from the launch days of the 3DS when many were in an uproar that Nintendo published Virtual Console games didn't have mappable controls, says it better than I ever could.

 

2014-05-09-564.png

Edited by Atariboy
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I can't imagine anyone holding the control the way shown in the third image. I know it's a joke though.

 

My thumb can comfortably cover two buttons by rocking sideways, so agree to disagree here. A couple other people on 8bitdo forums complained after they changed the button mapping because they couldn't get the updated firmware with their preferred layout.

 

Also fun to note that an SNES plugged into an NES using a patch cable has the B/Y layout, so backwards compatibility is built in. Also since the firmware for the 8bitdo NES and SNES receivers is identical, I suppose the firmware is counting clock inputs to determine if it's running NES or SNES mode. NES mode (8 clocks) allows A+Y to function as turbo buttons (Y+X if using the old beta firmware).

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I can't imagine anyone holding the control the way shown in the third image. I know it's a joke though.

 

My thumb can comfortably cover two buttons by rocking sideways, so agree to disagree here. A couple other people on 8bitdo forums complained after they changed the button mapping because they couldn't get the updated firmware with their preferred layout.

 

Also fun to note that an SNES plugged into an NES using a patch cable has the B/Y layout, so backwards compatibility is built in. Also since the firmware for the 8bitdo NES and SNES receivers is identical, I suppose the firmware is counting clock inputs to determine if it's running NES or SNES mode. NES mode (8 clocks) allows A+Y to function as turbo buttons (Y+X if using the old beta firmware).

 

I place my right hand slightly lower on the system than my left hand. Then I'm able to keep my thumb straight and straddle the area between A and B.

 

And I'll be honest with you, I'm shocked that isn't what everyone does. That third panel goes against all common sense to me.

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