FPGA Based Videogame System

[atmn]

I havent had the time to go through past post on this topic but when I try to play famicom disc system games on the analogue nt using the jailbreak firmware it tells me "Bad header". Any reason why this is or how to fix it?

Not supported I belive. Use FDS-stick or a real HVC-023.

[coderkind]

Guessing not. After the warranty expires, you might be able to get someone to just solder a resistor on the bottom of the PCB between the pin on the video out connector and the NES/fami cart port, though.

Considering I bought the console in March, I wouldn't consider the warranty to have expired.

 

I opened a "request" on Analogue's website asking about patching in the voltage and got an initial "we do not offer customizations or modifications" response, along with a recommendation to get a SCART cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk.

 

I wouldn't consider the console offering European SCART standard output as being a "customization", especially as they're selling the console with a universal power supply to use anywhere in the world, and when I ordered the console the fact I was able to get a locally-sourced cable (Retro Gaming Cables in the UK) that'd work with my equipment was a selling point. The fact the latest version of the console corrects this voltage issue again suggests that it isn't a "customization".

 

Retro Gaming Cables aren't selling SCART cables for this console after the hassle they experienced with the voltage not being passed through the DB15 port (as is standard for European SCART), and Analogue themselves removed that company from their recommended cable seller list some months ago, so someone there knows very well what the situation is yet decided to fob me off with duff advice.

 

To top it all, I got back from work tonight to check the progress of my query, and they've completely deleted it. It's not even in the "closed" dropdown section. I posted pretty much the same information as in this post and someone just plain deleted the query without replying.

 

To say I'm very unhappy would be an understatement.

[kevtris]

I havent had the time to go through past post on this topic but when I try to play famicom disc system games on the analogue nt using the jailbreak firmware it tells me "Bad header". Any reason why this is or how to fix it?

 

There's no facility to play FDS disks directly yet. I was going to eventually add it but haven't gotten there yet.

 

 

Thats what om goding for. Which pin om the db15 Will be THE RGB blanking?

 

 

Problem with some tvs there must be a RGB blanking signal, otherwise the tv think its composite in on the Scart. Some can "Force" the RGB channel. My B&O needs this signal unfortunly..

There's no blanking signal. I am not even sure how this would work.

[phoenixdownita]

 

.....

 

There's no blanking signal. I am not even sure how this would work.

It seems the AV connector on the Mini has pin12 NC, one could simply wire +5V there and connect that to Scart pin8 (Switching) and then via 100-200Ohm resistor to pin16 (Blanking) like consoles used to do (afaik Scart pin 16 at the TV is terminated via 75Ohm resistor).

Source:

https://support.analogue.co/hc/en-us/article_attachments/115006340767/Nt_mini_SCART_Information_rev.2.pdf

http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm

 

Pin8 is supposed to be >9V for 4:3 but many CRTs were just 4:3 to begin with so the 16:9 selection would be moot anyway, I am convinced anything >2V would work.

[atmn]

 

There's no facility to play FDS disks directly yet. I was going to eventually add it but haven't gotten there yet.

 

There's no blanking signal. I am not even sure how this would work.

 

The 5V with the 180ohm resistor is the blanking signal, thats my belief. There is some "settings" to it according to scart specification. like, 0-0.4V is composite (low), that is in most cases disconnected. 1-3V RGB. And also like mentioned below. There are some TVs that can toggle between 4:3 and 16:9 with that pin would work.

 

With the Nt mini, the only thing thats worth is 4:3 in RGB-mode. That is 5V with a 180ohm resistor..

 

Correct me if Im wrong,, Im not 100% sure.

 

 

It seems the AV connector on the Mini has pin12 NC, one could simply wire +5V there and connect that to Scart pin8 (Switching) and then via 100-200Ohm resistor to pin16 (Blanking) like consoles used to do (afaik Scart pin 16 at the TV is terminated via 75Ohm resistor).

Source:

https://support.analogue.co/hc/en-us/article_attachments/115006340767/Nt_mini_SCART_Information_rev.2.pdf

http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm

 

Pin8 is supposed to be >9V for 4:3 but many CRTs were just 4:3 to begin with so the 16:9 selection would be moot anyway, I am convinced anything >2V would work.

 

I contacted Tim Worthington about this with a NESRGB board and he uses 5V and 180ohm I think, there is some "internal" resistance aswell on that pin thats lower the voltage and makes it to RGB-mode.

[kevtris]

It seems the AV connector on the Mini has pin12 NC, one could simply wire +5V there and connect that to Scart pin8 (Switching) and then via 100-200Ohm resistor to pin16 (Blanking) like consoles used to do (afaik Scart pin 16 at the TV is terminated via 75Ohm resistor).

Source:

https://support.analogue.co/hc/en-us/article_attachments/115006340767/Nt_mini_SCART_Information_rev.2.pdf

http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm

 

Pin8 is supposed to be >9V for 4:3 but many CRTs were just 4:3 to begin with so the 16:9 selection would be moot anyway, I am convinced anything >2V would work.

 

 

 

The 5V with the 180ohm resistor is the blanking signal, thats my belief. There is some "settings" to it according to scart specification. like, 0-0.4V is composite (low), that is in most cases disconnected. 1-3V RGB. And also like mentioned below. There are some TVs that can toggle between 4:3 and 16:9 with that pin would work.

 

With the Nt mini, the only thing thats worth is 4:3 in RGB-mode. That is 5V with a 180ohm resistor..

 

Correct me if Im wrong,, Im not 100% sure.

 

 

 

I contacted Tim Worthington about this with a NESRGB board and he uses 5V and 180ohm I think, there is some "internal" resistance aswell on that pin thats lower the voltage and makes it to RGB-mode.

This kind of confusion and SCART being a unicorn here in the US adds up to me not having much of a clue on what to add to make users of SCART happy. I put the 5V through a 180 ohm resistor on pin 9 of the connector. It's switched with system power, so when you turn the system off the 5V drops down to 0V. Everyone wanted 5V on the connector so I added :-) This blanking thing... this is the first I heard about it.

[atmn]

 

 

This kind of confusion and SCART being a unicorn here in the US adds up to me not having much of a clue on what to add to make users of SCART happy. I put the 5V through a 180 ohm resistor on pin 9 of the connector. It's switched with system power, so when you turn the system off the 5V drops down to 0V. Everyone wanted 5V on the connector so I added :-) This blanking thing... this is the first I heard about it.

 

Yep, thats great. This is what "modders" do today and its working so thats correct. If you need the 5V signal use it, otherwise dont. So thats up to the cable-maker to enable this feature.

 

I will mod my Nt Mini when the warranty voids i think... On the "top" on the PCB so it wont show through the plexi.

 

Here is Tims answer to me when I asked about it.

 

 

Normally there is a resistor inside the cable between the 5V power rail and the blanking signal. This forces the TV into RGB mode all the time. If you try to measure the signal on an unterminated cable (ie. plugged into the console, but not the TV) you will measure 5V on this pin. Once you plug it into the TV, the resistor in the cable and the 75 ohm resistor inside the TV (it's there -- you can measure the resistance between pin 16 and ground on the TV's SCART input with a multimeter) will form a voltage divider and it will drop to something between 1 to 3 V at the pin. Normally the resistor in the cable is something between 75 and 180 ohms (I tend to use 150 ohms).

Edited June 20, 2017 by atmn

[gulps]

 

 

This kind of confusion and SCART being a unicorn here in the US adds up to me not having much of a clue on what to add to make users of SCART happy. I put the 5V through a 180 ohm resistor on pin 9 of the connector. It's switched with system power, so when you turn the system off the 5V drops down to 0V. Everyone wanted 5V on the connector so I added :-) This blanking thing... this is the first I heard about it.

 

 

Yes! All correct. It will be work perfect for our European TV

 

 

The VGA Pin9 (KEY/PWR) normally has +5V output. I suppose to power external converters ¿?

 

EuroSCART Pin16 (Blanking signal / RGB-selection) needs 1V/3V to activate RGB at some monitors that hasn't the manual input method selection.

 

 

As example: SNES AV Pin10 has +5V output. The SNES EuroSCART cable use this (with a 180 ohm resitor) for activate RGB at EuroTV. Same as N64 (with the N64RGB mod, we haven't to wire it because it outputs +5V), NES (with the NesRGB, same as N64RGB) and Game Cube.

 

 

We will test it. I have a B&O TV too

[Andromeda Stardust]

Considering I bought the console in March, I wouldn't consider the warranty to have expired.

 

I opened a "request" on Analogue's website asking about patching in the voltage and got an initial "we do not offer customizations or modifications" response, along with a recommendation to get a SCART cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk.

 

I wouldn't consider the console offering European SCART standard output as being a "customization", especially as they're selling the console with a universal power supply to use anywhere in the world, and when I ordered the console the fact I was able to get a locally-sourced cable (Retro Gaming Cables in the UK) that'd work with my equipment was a selling point. The fact the latest version of the console corrects this voltage issue again suggests that it isn't a "customization".

 

Retro Gaming Cables aren't selling SCART cables for this console after the hassle they experienced with the voltage not being passed through the DB15 port (as is standard for European SCART), and Analogue themselves removed that company from their recommended cable seller list some months ago, so someone there knows very well what the situation is yet decided to fob me off with duff advice.

 

To top it all, I got back from work tonight to check the progress of my query, and they've completely deleted it. It's not even in the "closed" dropdown section. I posted pretty much the same information as in this post and someone just plain deleted the query without replying.

 

To say I'm very unhappy would be an understatement.

You may need to just bite the bullet and "roll your own" cable by splicing a VGA cable and SCART and USB A (for the +5V) together. If you aren't good with soldering or have access to a multimeter, that might be a problem.

 

Nobody seems to be selling the right pre-manufactured cables with USB-A for the 5V, so perhaps a forum member could build some? I would make some, but without an NT-Mini or a Scart compatible TV, I'd have no way of testing them...

 

Really I put the blame on Analogue for this one. If they shipped with a non-standard VGA connector for everything (that doesn't work on 31kHz monitors), then they should stock the required cables in theirs store and test them before shipping. That way anyone who needed an analog video cable could get it directly from them. IMO requiring people to buy a specific third party cable is a logistics nightmare. Not offering support to people who tried an alternative cable for whatever reason (out of stock, shipping to EU is ridiculous, whatever) or decided to roll their own (which is the only way to guarantee fitness for the given application) is just bad PR, and Kevtris cannot offer warranty support.

[phoenixdownita]

This kind of confusion and SCART being a unicorn here in the US adds up to me not having much of a clue on what to add to make users of SCART happy. I put the 5V through a 180 ohm resistor on pin 9 of the connector. It's switched with system power, so when you turn the system off the 5V drops down to 0V. Everyone wanted 5V on the connector so I added :-) This blanking thing... this is the first I heard about it.

I guess a "better" solution would have been straight 5V (no 180Ohm) at the connector and let the cable have the resistor instead (like other consoles do) so both switching and blanking can kind of be wired .... pretty sure as you put it (through the 180Ohm resistor) should work mostly fine for this particular application, it still requires a cable that does not have the resistor, that and the +5V at the connector is not really usable for anything else as the 180Ohm resistor would act as a current-limiting-device/voltage-splitter dropping ~200mV per mA of current ... not that I think many people would add stuff on it (sync splitter maybe but then again there should be no need, an LM1881 is rated at <10mA likely wouldn't work) but I am digressing here.

[atmn]

I guess a "better" solution would have been straight 5V (no 180Ohm) at the connector and let the cable have the resistor instead (like other consoles do) so both switching and blanking can kind of be wired .... pretty sure as you put it (through the 180Ohm resistor) should work mostly fine for this particular application, it still requires a cable that does not have the resistor, that and the +5V at the connector is not really usable for anything else as the 180Ohm resistor would act as a current-limiting-device/voltage-splitter dropping ~200mV per mA of current ... not that I think many people would add stuff on it (sync splitter maybe but then again there should be no need, an LM1881 is rated at <10mA likely wouldn't work) but I am digressing here.

 

That crossed my mind aswell. The "standard" seems to use resistor in the cable.

Dont know if it matters in this case, maybe I'll make my mod as the rest of the Nt minis for no misunderstanding..

[kevtris]

I guess a "better" solution would have been straight 5V (no 180Ohm) at the connector and let the cable have the resistor instead (like other consoles do) so both switching and blanking can kind of be wired .... pretty sure as you put it (through the 180Ohm resistor) should work mostly fine for this particular application, it still requires a cable that does not have the resistor, that and the +5V at the connector is not really usable for anything else as the 180Ohm resistor would act as a current-limiting-device/voltage-splitter dropping ~200mV per mA of current ... not that I think many people would add stuff on it (sync splitter maybe but then again there should be no need, an LM1881 is rated at <10mA likely wouldn't work) but I am digressing here.

I didn't want 5V hanging out there without a resistor in case it gets shorted. the 180 ohms is enough resistance to prevent any kind of problem if it does; it can safely dissipate the 138mw of heat that will be developed across it. I also used it because 180 is the number I kept hearing and seeing. Again without SCART existing here, it's really hard for me to know/tell/test this stuff.

[Reaperman]

This week I'm into Burgertime and Moon Patrol, but I'm having some issues with 2600 Burgertime--anybody get it to work? The game seems to come up on screen with the *.mn file extension, but I can't figure out how to start playing, and the manual seems to think it's just reset.

 

Also, can anybody think of any other nt-mini versions/clones of Burgertime or Moon Patrol besides these:

 

 

 

Burgertime:

• 2600
• 7800 (beef drop)
• NES
• Coleco
• Game Boy ("deluxe" version)

Moon Patrol:

• 2600
• coleco (proto?)
• game boy color (combo with spy hunter)

 

 

Edited June 21, 2017 by Reaperman

[kevtris]

This week I'm into Burgertime and Moon Patrol, but I'm having some issues with 2600 Burgertime--anybody get it to work? The game seems to come up on screen with the *.mn file extension, but I can't figure out how to start playing, and the manual seems to think it's just reset.

 

Also, can anybody think of any other nt-mini versions/clones of Burgertime or Moon Patrol besides these:

 

 

 

Burgertime:

• 2600
• 7800 (beef drop)
• NES
• Coleco
• Game Boy ("deluxe" version)

Moon Patrol:

• 2600
• coleco (proto?)
• game boy color (combo with spy hunter)

 

 

yeah it needs the difficulty switch flipped to make it work from what I recall. It will stay paused otherwise. Koolaid man is similar and even looks "broken" if it's paused from the start.

[NE146]

I can't figure out how to start playing, and the manual seems to think it's just reset.

 

The switch on the LEFT may be used to FREEZE THE ACTION by sliding it in

to position A. Position B returns the game to the action from the point

at which you stopped it.

 

 

Probably harder to see since it's a crappy re-typed TXT format of the manual. I dunno when Al is going to start hosting some actual scans..

Burgertime (U).pdf

[hexcode99]

Never received a reply, so I will ask again.

 

Hello,

 

I am new to this forum but I had a question about something I have been interested in for quite awhile.

 

For a long time now I have been looking for a Super Nintendo (SNES) equivalent of the Analogue Nt mini.

 

Is the Zimba 3000 what I have been waiting for (high quality FPGA SNES, 1080p HDMI/RGB output and wireless controller)?

 

Thanks

[Wolf_]

Never received a reply, so I will ask again.

 

Hello,

 

I am new to this forum but I had a question about something I have been interested in for quite awhile.

 

For a long time now I have been looking for a Super Nintendo (SNES) equivalent of the Analogue Nt mini.

 

Is the Zimba 3000 what I have been waiting for (high quality FPGA SNES, 1080p HDMI/RGB output and wireless controller)?

 

Thanks

It will be when it comes out for sale in the next 5-10 years. Based on the fact Kevtris will be too busy to even look at the cores he already has in development for the nt mini for a full year and then he'll have to do the whole prototype hardware testing, design setbacks, manufacturing issues, core finalization, and development of new cores. So don't hold your breath.

[hexcode99]

It will be when it comes out for sale in the next 5-10 years. Based on the fact Kevtris will be too busy to even look at the cores he already has in development for the nt mini for a full year and then he'll have to do the whole prototype hardware testing, design setbacks, manufacturing issues, core finalization, and development of new cores. So don't hold your breath.

 

Nice! But 5-10 years?! Hopefully not that long...

[Radfoo]

Nice! But 5-10 years?! Hopefully not that long...

Can not see it being that long either, but I guess no one knows. I'd be surprised if Kevins paid work is something we will not be interested in.

[cacophony]

It will be when it comes out for sale in the next 5-10 years. Based on the fact Kevtris will be too busy to even look at the cores he already has in development for the nt mini for a full year and then he'll have to do the whole prototype hardware testing, design setbacks, manufacturing issues, core finalization, and development of new cores. So don't hold your breath.

 

I think the reason he's currently busy is because he's working on the FPGA SNES for Analogue. If I recall he said it would take about 6 months to develop a SNES core, which should line up nicely with an Analogue announcement later this year, and a release date of early/mid next year. That's the hope anyway!

 

Reasoning:

1. It's the next logical product for Analogue given their history and the current interest in the SNES. They have also hinted that it's coming at some point.

2. They would want Kevtris to develop the FPGA core

3. There is only one Kevtris so the obvious time for him to start on this would be after the completion of the Nt Mini. He suddenly became busy right after the Nt Mini custom firmware work wrapped up.

4. Read the last line of this article: https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/d7q93x/kevtris-kevin-horton-cyrogenics-retro-gaming

 

I know Kevtris enjoys these speculation posts, so I hope this makes him smile!

Edited June 25, 2017 by cacophony

[Mattelot]

Oh, how insanely awesome that would be, if Analogue were working on a FPGA SNES. The $500 price tags are well worth it for products this fine.

[Reaperman]

I don't think I can mention it enough that I freaking love this thing. It hasn't been unplugged since the day it arrived.

Today I'm feeling like playing joust--or really all the jousts.

[Dweezicus]

I havent had the time to go through past post on this topic but when I try to play famicom disc system games on the analogue nt using the jailbreak firmware it tells me "Bad header". Any reason why this is or how to fix it?

 

As stated by others, the NT Mini jailbreak doesn't support FDS roms BUT the Everdrive N8 does, so just pick one of those bad boys up and slam it into your NES slot on your mini. Problem solved.

[NE146]

On that note if you do that remember that some of the N8 Everdrive pad shortcuts (e.g. Down + select) conflict with some NT Mini shortcuts. Its worth ironing that out first to your preferences before you get too far playing a game

[Andromeda Stardust]

 

I think the reason he's currently busy is because he's working on the FPGA SNES for Analogue. If I recall he said it would take about 6 months to develop a SNES core, which should line up nicely with an Analogue announcement later this year, and a release date of early/mid next year. That's the hope anyway!

 

Reasoning:

1. It's the next logical product for Analogue given their history and the current interest in the SNES. They have also hinted that it's coming at some point.

2. They would want Kevtris to develop the FPGA core

3. There is only one Kevtris so the obvious time for him to start on this would be after the completion of the Nt Mini. He suddenly became busy right after the Nt Mini custom firmware work wrapped up.

4. Read the last line of this article: https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/d7q93x/kevtris-kevin-horton-cyrogenics-retro-gaming

 

I know Kevtris enjoys these speculation posts, so I hope this makes him smile!

If this is true, well awesome! I would buy an NT Mini in a heartbeat if it had SNES/Genesis/Turbografx support. Bonus if it came with jailbreak firmware that properly emulated the expansion chips, namely FX and SA-1.

 

And yes, before anyone asks, I am well aware the NT Mini is not capable of emulating SNES as it would need a bigger FPGA, but oh boy, make my dreams come true!