FPGA Based Videogame System

[gulps]

Hi @kevtris I have a question about the VGA-to-SCART cable for the NT MINI second revision.

 

 

At the Analogue section: Support > NT MINI GUIDES > Using Analog Video output with the Nt mini

 

• Nt mini SCART Information rev.2.pdf (100 KB)

 

 

​The PDF explains the VGA pin-out as:

ANALOGUE Nt mini Pinout:
1 - R (composite) - Connect to pin15
2 - G (chroma) - Connect to pin11
3 - B (luma) - Connect to pin7
4 - ground
5 - detection
6 - ground
7 - ground
8 - ground
9 - not connected
10 - detection
11 - ground
12 - not connected
13 - H synch - Connect to pin20
14 - V synch
15 - detection

But I didn't see the the output for 1V-to-3V RGB activation. Is this PDF outdated? Or we will still use the USB for this?

 

 

I see that we have to connect the RCA Left and Right to the SCART for TV. Is correct?

 

 

Thanks!

Edited October 26, 2017 by gulps

[RadikusRLZ]

The problem is when the monitor turns off, the system changes clock modes and starts outputting RGB, and the everdrive can't handle a clock switchover. Just use the built in stuff on the jailbreak mode instead of the everdrive?

Ok, good to know that, this is Everdrive issue and not the Analogue NT Mini issue.

Thank you very much your quick reply to me and I don't have to worry anymore...

[thefly]

Hi Kev,

 

I was wondering if the plastic shell on the Super NT is susceptible to the 'yellowing' that affected the original SNES? I really like the look of the SF model, but wouldn't want something that will be at a higher risk of something like that.

[Inky]

Been a long time since I've looked at this thread. I'm interested, but I'm curious, as I can't seem to find this info.. How many USB ports are on this?

[Pixelboy]

I was wondering if the plastic shell on the Super NT is susceptible to the 'yellowing' that affected the original SNES? I really like the look of the SF model, but wouldn't want something that will be at a higher risk of something like that.

What, so don't you want an accurate Super-NES clone, plastic yellowing and all?

[mrnarse]

I would love it if my Super NT gradually got yellower and yellower over the years. Kind of a hidden bonus like Iwata’s Golf watching over everyone’s Switch.

[thefly]

What, so don't you want an accurate Super-NES clone, plastic yellowing and all?

 

That might be a bit too accurate for my liking

 

I'm sure it will be fine, just thought I'd ask. It's between SFC and black for me.

[RadikusRLZ]

 

That might be a bit too accurate for my liking

 

I'm sure it will be fine, just thought I'd ask. It's between SFC and black for me.

Every plastic got yellowing soon or later.

[Wolf_]

Hi Kev,

 

I was wondering if the plastic shell on the Super NT is susceptible to the 'yellowing' that affected the original SNES? I really like the look of the SF model, but wouldn't want something that will be at a higher risk of something like that.

The early models only yellowed because the chemicals in the plastic were mixed poorly. Considering the mix was fixed 30 years ago my guess would be the only way it yellows is if Analogue thought that would be more authentic. You can always get black like I did though.

[thefly]

The early models only yellowed because the chemicals in the plastic were mixed poorly. Considering the mix was fixed 30 years ago my guess would be the only way it yellows is if Analogue thought that would be more authentic. You can always get black like I did though.

 

Maybe that's an idea for a future colour scheme - 'nicotine shadow', anyone?!

 

Still torn between black and SF, one has the retro nod, the other is very sleek.

 

My first SNES, purchased in 1992, never suffered with the yellowing. I eventually sold it in 1997 (stupid). Less than a year later I bought another one, second-hand, and that had some of the yellowing. I still have that one, carefully boxed and stored.

[DadsGlasses]

For the Super NT I decided to go black console with SFC controllers.

[Andromeda Stardust]

Hi Kev,

 

I was wondering if the plastic shell on the Super NT is susceptible to the 'yellowing' that affected the original SNES? I really like the look of the SF model, but wouldn't want something that will be at a higher risk of something like that.

 

What, so don't you want an accurate Super-NES clone, plastic yellowing and all?

 

I would love it if my Super NT gradually got yellower and yellower over the years. Kind of a hidden bonus like Iwata’s Golf watching over everyone’s Switch.

 

The early models only yellowed because the chemicals in the plastic were mixed poorly. Considering the mix was fixed 30 years ago my guess would be the only way it yellows is if Analogue thought that would be more authentic. You can always get black like I did though.

This is true. My SNES never yellowed. I was one of the lucky ones I guess. My understanding was that a bad batch of light gray ABS plastic had the wrong ratio of chemical additives but somehow passed Quality Control Inspection and was sent to production.

 

The plastic molding on the SNES is identical to the carts and controllers as far as I can tell, but the bad batch was used primarily to manufacture North American SNES shells. The parts got all mixed up during assembly so it was random which consoles got the bad plastics and which got good. This is why SNES cosoles are often two toned as the individual shells came from different lots.

 

This yellowing is different from UV exposure (in which only the exposed surface gets tanned) as as disassembly will show that the inner faces are yellowed too due to reaction with oxygen. In fact a new in box SNES with the bad plastics will probably be just as yellow as a well played unit if you tried to unbox it today.

[NE146]

Oh there are ones that don't yellow? Who knew. While mine were never so lucky, I don't think I would have ever called them "yellow".. maybe it's just me but they always just looked more a dingy discolored than anything.

[Keatah]

This yellowing is different from UV exposure (in which only the exposed surface gets tanned) as as disassembly will show that the inner faces are yellowed too due to reaction with oxygen. In fact a new in box SNES with the bad plastics will probably be just as yellow as a well played unit if you tried to unbox it today.

 

If you would have kept it in sealed bag, the outgassings would have reached a concentration level to where they would stop further outgassing. And no yellowing!

[Toth]

My original didn't yellow but it had a black screen of death issue where it turns on but is just a black screen. I bought a replacement super dirty yellow one for really cheap and swapped internals. Interesting enough the cases/shells were slightly different inside and there was a bunch of metal shielding on the main board of the yellow one that wasn't on my original and I had to slightly modify a couple plastic tabs on my case to fit the main board in. I think my original was a newer revision or something.

[Kismet]

Oh there are ones that don't yellow? Who knew. While mine were never so lucky, I don't think I would have ever called them "yellow".. maybe it's just me but they always just looked more a dingy discolored than anything.

 

You can tell which is which by the color of the cartridge slot door and the power/reset buttons.

 

 

The SFC on the left is also yellow, note the SFC controllers are slightly yellow as well, these were the controllers shipped with the SFC. The SNES on the top is the newest of them, which is CPU-GPM-02 (the controller is from my original launch-era SNES.) The two SNES below, the middle one are "bad plastic" types of yellow of different intensity. The GPM-02 on top I bought off eBay. The SFC I bought off eBay and immediately died. The SNES in the middle came from a local used games shop and was bought dead, the one on the right is my sisters which died years ago, and she bought it that color about 12 years ago, and it sat in storage. My original SNES isn't shown because I had to destroy the shell to get into it, as something metal had been lodged in one screw hole.

Edited October 27, 2017 by Kismet

[Tusecsy]

Do you prefer women with cigarette stains on their teeth too? That yellowing is nasty, even if it's just the fire retardent.

 

Also, pretty obvious there's a snes core if there's a rom built-in? Not my wheelhouse someone else should chime in.

[Andromeda Stardust]

You can tell which is which by the color of the cartridge slot door and the power/reset buttons.

 

 

The SFC on the left is also yellow, note the SFC controllers are slightly yellow as well, these were the controllers shipped with the SFC. The SNES on the top is the newest of them, which is CPU-GPM-02 (the controller is from my original launch-era SNES.) The two SNES below, the middle one are "bad plastic" types of yellow of different intensity. The GPM-02 on top I bought off eBay. The SFC I bought off eBay and immediately died. The SNES in the middle came from a local used games shop and was bought dead, the one on the right is my sisters which died years ago, and she bought it that color about 12 years ago, and it sat in storage. My original SNES isn't shown because I had to destroy the shell to get into it, as something metal had been lodged in one screw hole.

Man, you've had rotten luck with SNES consoles. Mine was a Goodwill find, purchased in 2004 with World/All Stars Combo cart, three random other games, and two controllers. You can see it next to the SNES Mini. There's almost no yellowing at all.

 

I don't have the mobo revision info handy but mine is a two chip with the a/v circuit located on the main board. My SNES lacked the cartridge lock but I bought a locking mechanism from NES Repair shop and added it back in. Anyhow the SNES seems just as reliable as any Nintendo made console. Since Nintendo hardware used Japanese caps as opposed to Taiwanese knockoffs, they generally don't suffer from capacitor rot like other early 90s game consoles.

[thefly]

 

 

The Lik-Sang sticker is nice! Loved that site, had all kinds of interesting stuff there.

[Andromeda Stardust]

The Lik-Sang sticker is nice! Loved that site, had all kinds of interesting stuff there.

I ordered a Famicom Mini Series 21: Super Mario Bros 2 from there in 2004/5ish I think. They sent me the sticker and I placed it on my NES. I also have a coffee mug from them I redeemed with bonus points. May they rest in peace. I always preferred them over Play Asia bitd cause they sent cool bonus stuff you could redeem with points. So the sticker itself has been on my console for 12 years and is a kind of retro relic now. I'll never peel it off...

 

The red knob is a grounded 10k volume pot for Powerpak audio, and I have a BLW, CopyNES, and a violet LED installed also.

[Riptide]

Do you prefer women with cigarette stains on their teeth too? That yellowing is nasty, even if it's just the fire retardent.

 

 

Also, pretty obvious there's a snes core if there's a rom built-in? Not my wheelhouse someone else should chime in.

Well yes, there's a SNES core otherwise the Super NT wouldn't be able to play SNES games...

[Wolf_]

Btw this is an awesome guide on how to get rid of the yellowing for anyone that wants to do some maintenance on their console.

Alternatively you could just paint it:

(Currently for sale)

 

Edited October 27, 2017 by Wolf_

[Tusecsy]

Well yes, there's a SNES core otherwise the Super NT wouldn't be able to play SNES games...

 

carts ya no shit, but does the core play roms? it has to if it plays a file off the system right?

[Schizophretard]

Or just pause and leave the game running. I've left consoles on for weeks before to finish a game...

 

By compromise I meant something between that and a save state.

[RevQuixo]

 

carts ya no shit, but does the core play roms? it has to if it plays a file off the system right?

 

That is still uncertain, Yes they are ROMs, but are they on an SD Card? That would mean the system ships with an SD Card. They could just exist in the on-board system somewhere that is accessible in a totally different manner than the SD Card.

 

That being said, I fully expect load from ROMs to occur...just not sure how the Turricans play into it.