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FPGA Based Videogame System


kevtris

Interest in an FPGA Videogame System  

682 members have voted

  1. 1. I would pay....

  2. 2. I Would Like Support for...

  3. 3. Games Should Run From...

    • SD Card / USB Memory Sticks
    • Original Cartridges
    • Hopes and Dreams
  4. 4. The Video Inteface Should be...


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I don't think you're interpreting the conclusion correctly here. It's not 840 hours of being lit. It's 840 hours of being lit (mostly continuously; just 4 hours off per day), with the exact same image the entire time. Which nobody is going to do in practice.

Yeah, seriously. This is the same FUD that was tossed around for Plasma. Somehow my plasma survived 5-6 hr sessions of Dark Souls all the time.

 

OLED is more burn proof than plasma. I do hours of Overwatch almost nightly. I use my NT mini on it.

 

The only people that need to avoid OLED are the people that leave their TV on CNN or whatever for background noise 18 hrs a day. Also of some concern would be as a PC monitor (but there is an OLED laptop, I think they are very aggressive with the screen orbiter and screen saver).

Edited by GreenMonkey
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I'm pretty sure the point they are trying to make is that you can pick up better displays used in the $50-$100 range on basically any site that sells second hand goods, and far superior large 4k low input lag displays in the $300 range.

Even if your finances are tight upgrading to a nice low input lag 1080p display of a decent size for under $100 is going to be a big improvement to your setup. Saying you enjoy what is probably a high input lag, low pixel density display with most likely poor viewing angles and color accuracy and don't want to upgrade to something better even though it costs next to nothing is like saying you enjoy wearing shoes that make your feet bleed and someone suggests you buy some more comfortable shoes for $50 only to have you defend your shoes which sometimes spontaneously burst into flames.

Edited by Wolf_
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So, I'm having a slightly weird sound issue. I had it with my Nt Mini, and my Super Nt also does it. The sound cuts out every few seconds when I have my TV pass it on to my soundbar. When I have it play back through the TV's internal speakers, I have no problems. Anything else I hook up to the TV has no problems playing back through the soundbar. Just the Nt Mini and Super Nt. And it's not even in every game I play, just certain games seem to have this occur. Anyone else experience something like this?

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Okay, in your eyes my display is crap. So what? I might think the car someone drives is a piece of junk, but if it gets them where they need to go, why would I repeatedly call them out on it? I agree with Dadsglasses. You're only making yourself look like a tool by repeatedly telling everyone that your gear is better than mine. Get over it. I really don't give a crap what gear you use, and you shouldn't care about what I use either.

My only point is, you don't have to own "crap", not with how great some of these inexpensive LCDs have been performing. $330 gets you a night and day difference with your Super NT. You can have nice things and be frugal at the same time.

 

No, I can't force you to upgrade and if you are happy running a $200+ quality FPGA SNES into a 26" Sanyo from 2006 then thats your call. I just thought perhaps you weren't aware how great some of these inexpensive modern LCDs are.

 

My offer is still on the table if you ever decide to upgrade. I would like to help you out and make sure you get your moneys worth. I'm sorry if my comments offended you, I'm just very passionate about this stuff.

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I'm pretty sure the point they are trying to make is that you can pick up better displays used in the $50-$100 range on basically any site that sells second hand goods, and far superior large 4k low input lag displays in the $300 range.

 

Even if your finances are tight upgrading to a nice low input lag 1080p display of a decent size for under $100 is going to be a big improvement to your setup. Saying you enjoy what is probably a high input lag, low pixel density display with most likely poor viewing angles and color accuracy and don't want to upgrade to something better even though it costs any better is like saying you enjoy wearing shoes that make your feet bleed and someone suggests you buy some more comfortable shoes for $50 only to have you defend your shoes which sometimes spontaneously burst into flames.

 

Exactly, that is all I was trying to say.

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I'm pretty sure the point they are trying to make is that you can pick up better displays used in the $50-$100 range on basically any site that sells second hand goods, and far superior large 4k low input lag displays in the $300 range.

 

Even if your finances are tight upgrading to a nice low input lag 1080p display of a decent size for under $100 is going to be a big improvement to your setup. Saying you enjoy what is probably a high input lag, low pixel density display with most likely poor viewing angles and color accuracy and don't want to upgrade to something better even though it costs any better is like saying you enjoy wearing shoes that make your feet bleed and someone suggests you buy some more comfortable shoes for $50 only to have you defend your shoes which sometimes spontaneously burst into flames.

 

 

My only point is, you don't have to own "crap", not with how great some of these inexpensive LCDs have been performing. $330 gets you a night and day difference with your Super NT. You can have nice things and be frugal at the same time.

 

No, I can't force you to upgrade and if you are happy running a $200+ quality FPGA SNES into a 26" Sanyo from 2006 then thats your call. I just thought perhaps you weren't aware how great some of these inexpensive modern LCDs are.

 

My offer is still on the table if you ever decide to upgrade. I would like to help you out and make sure you get your moneys worth. I'm sorry if my comments offended you, I'm just very passionate about this stuff.

 

Please, would anyone care to explain to me, in layman's terms, what is so terrible about my AV setup? Because I'm dying to know...

post-33189-0-27711600-1518400632_thumb.jpg

 

And yes, those speakers are in fact larger than the TV itself. They sound phenominal. I guess I could upgrade to a 40 inch, but then I'd need to find a new place for the antique clock and CD player... :P

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Please, would anyone care to explain to me, in layman's terms, what is so terrible about my AV setup? Because I'm dying to know...

attachicon.gifHome Theater Setup.JPG

 

And yes, the speakers are in fact larger than the TV. They sound phenominal. I guess I could upgrade to a 40 inch, but then I'd need to find a new place for the antique clock and CD player... :P

With some minor rearranging you can easily fit a 49" screen on that stand.

 

Also, is that a 5 disc DVD player or CD player?

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I'm simply advising people to at least get their setup in order first to truly be able to take advantage of such high quality devices like the Super NT. I mean seriously, whats the point buying a Super NT if you are just going to run it through a Display that was craptastic 10 yrs ago, let alone 2018? Kevtris's work deserves to be fully appreciated in all its glory.

 

 

My only point is, you don't have to own "crap", not with how great some of these inexpensive LCDs have been performing. $330 gets you a night and day difference with your Super NT. You can have nice things and be frugal at the same time.

 

No, I can't force you to upgrade and if you are happy running a $200+ quality FPGA SNES into a 26" Sanyo from 2006 then thats your call. I just thought perhaps you weren't aware how great some of these inexpensive modern LCDs are.

 

My offer is still on the table if you ever decide to upgrade. I would like to help you out and make sure you get your moneys worth. I'm sorry if my comments offended you, I'm just very passionate about this stuff.

I play my NT Mini exclusively on a CRT via component, instead of a HDMI to a 1080p display.

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Yeah, seriously. This is the same FUD that was tossed around for Plasma. Somehow my plasma survived 5-6 hr sessions of Dark Souls all the time.

 

OLED is more burn proof than plasma. I do hours of Overwatch almost nightly. I use my NT mini on it.

 

The only people that need to avoid OLED are the people that leave their TV on CNN or whatever for background noise 18 hrs a day. Also of some concern would be as a PC monitor (but there is an OLED laptop, I think they are very aggressive with the screen orbiter and screen saver).

 

^^This^^

 

I've been through plasmas and have had my oled for a year now. I've never had any image retention at all, whereas the plasma would get some on extended viewing of news channels. It would go away after switching the channel though of course. Then as in now, it's all completely overblown and none of those tests take into account real world scenarios.

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Please, would anyone care to explain to me, in layman's terms, what is so terrible about my AV setup? Because I'm dying to know...

attachicon.gifHome Theater Setup.JPG

 

And yes, those speakers are in fact larger than the TV itself. They sound phenominal. I guess I could upgrade to a 40 inch, but then I'd need to find a new place for the antique clock and CD player... :P

 

Well if you must know, I'd say those flames on your speakers is a problem :P

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Lastly I'd like to add that I still believe 1080p is overrated for retro upscaling. 720p allows integer scaling without cropping or windowboxing and looks just as good.

720p looks softer on a 1080p screen and gives a 1080p tv the opportunity to add input lag by upscaling. You really should get a nice bigger 1080p for cheap. It'd be the most cost-efficient way to increase your enjoyment. I had a similar old 720p tv, I moved it to the bedroom when I upgraded. You don't have to junk a working tv to upgrade.

Edited by RabidWookie
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gives a 1080p tv the opportunity to add input lag by upscaling.

 

Just a FYI, that doesn't really happen. At least on a detectable level. 720 to 1080 digital scaling like that isn't the cause of everyone's problems. It's the analog to digital conversion. Or if the TV is just slow to begin with.

 

1080P TVs are also pretty much done for, at least in the medium to bigger sizes. They've been relegated to smaller low budget sets. It's cheaper for the manufacturers just to be cutting the mother glass for 4K. There's no reason for them to do 1080P runs anymore. Decent 4K sets from the 43" - 55" can be had for 300 - 400 bucks.

Edited by keepdreamin
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4da.jpg

Oh yea, because covering it up and misleading people would be great for sales. Absolutely wouldn't have any negative repercussions at any point. And so many, SO MANY people would continue to believe and buy the console just for the never confirmed jailbreak that isn't coming as long as Analogue simply doesn't say it never will.

 

I agree it would have repercussions. The three people (you included) who assume it's guaranteed to happen unless told otherwise are going to be upset because they'll feel lied to. The other 20,000 people who reasonably assumed that it could go either way, and understand that it's ok that sometimes companies aren't totally transparent with their plans, will be fine with it.

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Please, would anyone care to explain to me, in layman's terms, what is so terrible about my AV setup? Because I'm dying to know...

attachicon.gifHome Theater Setup.JPG

 

And yes, those speakers are in fact larger than the TV itself. They sound phenominal. I guess I could upgrade to a 40 inch, but then I'd need to find a new place for the antique clock and CD player... :P

Nothing really, it's all a matter of style and taste and all that.

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Since the super nt is RGB, there's no palette. In the near future I will be exposing the gamma boost function so you can set it to any value you like, though. (vs. it being preset to 2 values like it is now. off and on).

 

 

 

 

I wish I understood more how the Super Nt's colors are assigned. I figured a digitally integrated system would have digital control over each of the primary RGB signals. Mine won't arrive until tomorrow, but in the interim , I've done lossless capture work comparing Higan to various real hardware SNES revisions, and the SNES Classic. Higan's palette appearance I've determined is exactly how the real hardware looks.

Below is a comparison of Higan >>> SNES Classic >>> Junior console modded with Voultar board >>> 1CHIP03 with 750 Ohm resistors >>> APU SNES with subcarrier interference removed:

 

lqN8my6.png

 

You can see that only the 1CHIP and Junior have a different RGB look compared to Higan, while the SNES Classic and the APU SNES have the same output (albeit with bad PQ).

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I wish I understood more how the Super Nt's colors are assigned. I figured a digitally integrated system would have digital control over each of the primary RGB signals. Mine won't arrive until tomorrow, but in the interim , I've done lossless capture work comparing Higan to various real hardware SNES revisions, and the SNES Classic. Higan's palette appearance I've determined is exactly how the real hardware looks.

Below is a comparison of Higan >>> SNES Classic >>> Junior console modded with Voultar board >>> 1CHIP03 with 750 Ohm resistors >>> APU SNES with subcarrier interference removed:

 

lqN8my6.png

 

You can see that only the 1CHIP and Junior have a different RGB look compared to Higan, while the SNES Classic and the APU SNES have the same output (albeit with bad PQ).

Those all look pretty much the same to me. Maybe closer examination one might notice miniscule difference, but not something that people will notice while playing, considering individual TVs likely have vastly different colors.

 

SNES have digital rgb values baked into each pixel, so arbitrary assignment of color pallet is not necessary. NES had 56 possible colors which rendered differently on various display hardware depending on whether the signal was converted in the analog domain (crt) or digital domain (flat panels, capture devices). Thus what constitutes an NES pallete islargely ambiguous and based largely upon personal taste, while snes rgb palletes are literally assigned 5-bit integers from 0 to 31. This is pretty straightforward to convert 5-bit rgb into 8-bit rgb, not so much for consoles such as NES or Atari that assigned palettes based on hue and luminosity. And I imagine PAL NES games might have looked slightly different rendered on PAL TVs as well, but I never seen PAL games in person.

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I wish I understood more how the Super Nt's colors are assigned. I figured a digitally integrated system would have digital control over each of the primary RGB signals. Mine won't arrive until tomorrow, but in the interim , I've done lossless capture work comparing Higan to various real hardware SNES revisions, and the SNES Classic. Higan's palette appearance I've determined is exactly how the real hardware looks.

Below is a comparison of Higan >>> SNES Classic >>> Junior console modded with Voultar board >>> 1CHIP03 with 750 Ohm resistors >>> APU SNES with subcarrier interference removed:

 

lqN8my6.png

 

You can see that only the 1CHIP and Junior have a different RGB look compared to Higan, while the SNES Classic and the APU SNES have the same output (albeit with bad PQ).

 

There is no palette for the SNES on a whole, it's just 5-5-5 BGR. It creates a 256 color palette using 15-bit values. There is also color math involved which is why there will be more than 256 colors on screen (things like cloud, fog, smoke, water.)

 

So when people start arguing about one emulator or hardware version looking better than another version, it's not the output from the PPU that is different, it's the signal calibration against the black level. NTSC-J Japanese and PAL games have a different black level than NTSC-M America. Likewise NTSC has different color values than PAL. The black level is just different enough between NTSC-J and NTSC-M that people kinda get upset when the Nintendo Wii/WiiU virtual console is significantly darker than they expect it to be, but somehow on the Wii U tablet screen shows this as an expected color output.

 

So I really do expect some people to fail to notice this, and are instead told to change the gamma on the SuperNT depending if they're playing a US or a non-US game if the game is too dark.

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There is no palette for the SNES on a whole, it's just 5-5-5 BGR. It creates a 256 color palette using 15-bit values. There is also color math involved which is why there will be more than 256 colors on screen (things like cloud, fog, smoke, water.)

 

So when people start arguing about one emulator or hardware version looking better than another version, it's not the output from the PPU that is different, it's the signal calibration against the black level. NTSC-J Japanese and PAL games have a different black level than NTSC-M America. Likewise NTSC has different color values than PAL. The black level is just different enough between NTSC-J and NTSC-M that people kinda get upset when the Nintendo Wii/WiiU virtual console is significantly darker than they expect it to be, but somehow on the Wii U tablet screen shows this as an expected color output.

 

So I really do expect some people to fail to notice this, and are instead told to change the gamma on the SuperNT depending if they're playing a US or a non-US game if the game is too dark.

 

Okay so if this is the case, then theoretically is should be possible to get the Super Nt to look EXACTLY like the color output of Higan. I'm just curious about this because the biggest complaint I'm hearing about right now is the colors on the Super NT look noticeably different than Higan. To the point where hues look off.

 

And by the way, the SNES has a palette of 32,768. The 256 part comes into play when considering simultaneous colors on the screen.

Edited by Karbuncle
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