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Omega-TI

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I purchased a few assembled cartridge boards the other day (red boards, black boards, UberGROM's) so that I can play around and try to make cartridges with some of the programs I'm writing.

 

It sounds like both the red and black boards can use: 2764, 27128, 27256, 27512, 27C010, 27C020, 27C040 chips. Can someone point me to some reasonable deals of those chips at places like Amazon or Ebay? I'm searching and finding things that look similar, but I'm not exactly sure if I'm looking at the right ones. I'm fine buying multiples (10+, etc.) if it's a really good deal. In terms of size, I don't think I'm too picky about that right now. Just want to play around with them. It sounds like the black board can only address 128K without external switches (if I read that right), so a 128K size chip might be good starting point, unless it's more economical to buy bigger chips anyway? The "K" being mentioned, is that kilobits or kilobytes? It seems the context is kilobits, but just want to be sure.

 

It sounds like for the UberGROM boards, I would only need to obtain Atmel 1284P's if I wanted to use the GROM (or GRAM?) simulation? It might be interesting to play with the GRAM's (is it 12 Kbytes or 12 Kbits) writeable memory as a way to temporarily expand "RAM" capabilities on a non-expanded console past what's available in VDP RAM. The 1284P's seem a bit expensive though?

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True enough, on the GROM needs for the 1284's. I have eight UberGROM boards and currently only have 1284P's in two of them, and a couple on standby in case the need arises. For most things one only needs the 49F040's (512K RAM chips). I really like the PLCC's because I don't have to worry about FUBAR'ing pins like I would with DIMM's with repeated extractions and re-burns... and the price is better (contact Jim). In the long run, I save more on chip costs than the couple of extra dollars a blue board costs upfront.

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Black boards are INVERTED images

Red boards are non-INVERTED images

Blue (uber) boards can do the same images as red on the flash rom (included)

1084p's average $10ea I sell them for that price they are required for GROM emulation yes and can be flashed with many grom banks

 

I have had good luck buying from ebay and try and buy lots for as cheap per unit as I can get.. The nice thing about smaller images is you can just duplicate them on a larger rom. So I'd buy some 256's to play with first if I were you. They can hold 8,16,32 or 64k images.. So if you were to put an 8k on it you'd just build it with 8 8k images stacked to make it 64.. yes kilobits so you devide the chipsize by 8 to get kilobytes..

 

Greg

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Here are some offerings from a seller I use pretty regularly. Most of the chips I get from him are good, once the windows are cleaned and pins straightened. One note: a 128K board will take anything up to a 128Kx8 bit EPROM. As the sizes of EPROMs are often noted in bits in auction listings, you have to do the divide by eight to make sure you have the size you want. . .if they have the x8 already listed, use that value to figure out what you've got.

Edited by Ksarul
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... So I'd buy some 256's to play with first if I were you. They can hold 8,16,32 or 64k images.. So if you were to put an 8k on it you'd just build it with 8 8k images stacked to make it 64.. yes kilobits so you devide the chipsize by 8 to get kilobytes..

 

Greg

 

That would be 32KiB for the 256 chips—so, four 8KiB images. ;-)

 

...lee

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Except you aren't supposed to be repeatedly extracting and re-burning it, that was the whole point of the firmware. :)

 

Yes, when you are talking the blue board and the 1284P. I was referring to the RAM portion of the board that cannot be (re)programmed via the TI cartridge port. That's another reason why I like the blue board so much. Because of it's design, using a PLCC socket, I can remove the 49F040 many, many times, but that can be problematical on the other cartridges where one always risks bending and weakening the pins, which can lead to eventual breakage.

 

gallery_35324_1027_12135.jpg

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Because of it's design, using a PLCC socket, I can remove the 49F040 many, many times, but that can be problematical on the other cartridges where one always risks bending and weakening the pins, which can lead to eventual breakage.

I respectfully disagree. With the proper chip extraction tool, both DIP and PLCC can be extracted without fear of pin breakage.

 

If you're using a flathead screwdriver on a DIP EPROM, you have only yourself to blame for the results -- same with a smaller-flathead and a PLCC.

 

Personally, I would like to see a red or yellow cart using PLCC (or in the case of the yellow, four PLCCs). That's not because DIP is more fragile; it's because higher-density memory chips aren't DIP any more. And someday, when the rain stops, I may well design that board. Until that day, DIP EPROMs rule the earth.

 

(using an UberGROM board without a 1284 just because one is scared of breaking a DIP pin is a terrible waste of a wonderful PCB, IMO. And the 1284 is DIP icon_smile.gif

Edited by ckoba
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Hey Chris,

Well, yeah, only myself to blame, that's for sure. I'm like the proverbial Gorilla in the China shop, I don't have the finesse to F with DIMM's, so since I have an alternative, I took it and ran with it and am personally very happy with the decision I made.

 

Now admittedly, I'm a cheap ba$tard by nature, and the AT49F040's I came across were very reasonable in price, but they are also EEPROMS which means I don't have to mess with a time consuming UV eraser either. I may have overlooked a deal someplace, but I was unable to find any EEPROMs for the other cartridge formats at price as reasonable as I found the 49F040's.

 

I don't see it as a waste Chris, because I can re-task these boards at anytime for anything I want, the same cannot be said for the other boards. To me this is more bang for the buck. The 49F040's were so reasonable I was able to justify buying more blue boards with the savings and get even more enjoyment.

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Well, yeah, only myself to blame, that's for sure. I'm like the proverbial Gorilla in the China shop, I don't have the finesse to F with DIMM's, so since I have an alternative, I took it and ran with it and am personally very happy with the decision I made.

 

Now admittedly, I'm a cheap ba$tard by nature, and the AT49F040's I came across were very reasonable in price, but they are also EEPROMS which means I don't have to mess with a time consuming UV eraser either. I may have overlooked a deal someplace, but I was unable to find any EEPROMs for the other cartridge formats at price as reasonable as I found the 49F040's.

 

I don't see it as a waste, because I can re-task these boards at anytime for anything I want, the same cannot be said for the other boards. To me this is more bang for the buck. The 49F040's were so reasonable I was able to justify buying more blue boards with the savings and get even more enjoyment.

Right. My point being that a particular individual's inability to extract a DIP (not DIMM) chip from a board should not be seen as a design flaw of the board, but rather a case of the operator using the wrong tool.

 

I used to break PLCC sockets all the time (at home) until I purchased the right tool (which matched what I had at work). A similar extractor exists for DIP. I have one, and I'll bet most people who regularly extract .400" DIP chips have one too.

 

The point that I'm trying to make is that it's not fair/correct to slag off on a DIP-based board because one particular individual has an easier time (or a tool, I hope, to) extract(ing) PLCC than DIP. That's simply not a problem that can be extended to the audience at large.

 

If Centralia College still has an electronics program, I highly suggest taking at least a first-semester intro to electronics course. It's cheap, will familiarize you with the right (and wrong) way to treat electronics, and perhaps you'll pick up a bit about digital electronics and how our gear was lovingly misdesigned in the process.

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Don't get me wrong, I'm not putting down any of the other boards. They are great for what they do. For me, personally, this seemed the best choice. As you can see, I'm well stocked for any new goodies that will come out that can be put on this amazing board. :-D

 

gallery_35324_1027_33248.jpg

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Fair enough, conversation over, with one caveat: I will vigorously defend DIP (and, for that matter, UV-eraseable EPROM) cartridge board designs when I see a post denigrating them. Failing to do so will give newcomers to the community an incorrect view of what is available and what is recommended.

 

Again, with all due respect.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I use that one all the time to burn most of the ROM types I use along with Atmel 1284s for the UberGROM. It isn't capable of burning 16-bit ROMs though (used by the Yellow Boards). I use a Topwin 3000 for the chips it won't do (or my Advin Pilot UP84 Plus). On the Topwin models--I'm pretty sure that the last models that work well for this purpose are the 3000 and possibly the 3100. . .

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are these usb rom burners any good?

 

If you get one, I think you'll like it, I know I do. The late great Gazoo turned me on to this burner, and I believe it was Ksarul that turned me on to the nice little hinged adapter for burning the 49F040's for the UberGROM board.

 

There is a link to one of my blog entries << HERE >> that has a few files that may be of interest to you once you get it, along with Gazoo's EASY TO FOLLOW directions for programming the 1284P.

 

Good Luck!

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