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New video upgrade coming soon!


Bryan

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Let me ask a more basic (hah!) question: do people still actually use the shields in their Atari 8-bits? I generally remove them when I get a box during cleaning and just leave it off for ease of making further modifications or repairs.

 

 

Most of my XLs no longer have the top shields in place. I tend to tinker a fair bit (or did) and having the shield off makes it much easier to get at stuff. I'm certainly not worries about loosing them from the machines.

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Bryan at the beginning of this thread said that shielding will give you better picture quality.

 

Hmmm... I don't think I did.

 

It's only important if you want to use the RF output which gets snowy without the shield. Also, some of the PCB-based XL keyboards get bouncy/saggy in the middle if they're not sitting on the shield (if your system has hard rubber strips under the keyboard, that's what they're for).

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Does that mean I'll need to change my order to use a Basic board then? is that going to be an issue for you?

If you want to install under the shield, then yes. If you order the custom board (which includes all the parts) then you can decide what to install to make it fit.

 

Over time all the best install options will become clear. :)

 

Changing orders is no problem.

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You are right. I was thinking about this post http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/page-4?do=findComment&comment=3395512

It would be nice if someone did side by side comparison of same system with and without shields.

Shields are PITA.

I don't think the Atari is all that sensitive to RF itself. It's mainly that it produces so much RF energy.

 

Although, back in the CB radio days I saw all kinds of devices react to someone driving through with high-power amps.

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I don't think the Atari is all that sensitive to RF itself. It's mainly that it produces so much RF energy.

 

This was and is my feeling as well. And yes it will affect the RF (channel 3&4) output to a TV, but who does that now a days, when a composite or S-Video output will blow it away. And in all my years, I have never seen the Atari itself affected by outside RF interference, and I speak from experience, having used a 100 watt linear amp on my CB back in the day. As for the Atari interfering with other electronics, that would be a yes. But with people using cable or ethernet connected TV (U-Verse), or even digital TV broadcasts over an antenna, highly doubtful. So I say feel free to remove that RF shield, unless your neighbor complains about it.

 

- Michael

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That would only happen if you lived in a really crappy apartment building with your Atari on the opposite (thin) wall from the TV next door.

 

If those people use an antenna and have no cable company, they would have no one to complain to. If they have a cable company, most Comcast employees just barely know how to screw in a light bulb, let alone track down RFI. :)

 

Edit: no offence to any Comcast employees, All cable companies are the same.

Edited by Kyle22
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Let us know when we can pay. :)

 

Sure thing.

 

I prefer to not have people's money far in advance of shipment so that in case some disaster happens, I (or someone else) am not responsible to repay everyone. Also, I worked with Tom Harker at ICD just as the Catbox fiasco went down and I've seen it over and over where someone announces something they cannot afford to do, then they blow through everyone's money and still can't afford to do it.

 

I will finalize all pre-orders beginning the 1st of February.

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And where do i get the color signal?

That's a very good question.

 

It's easy if you only want Maria output. Just tap the COL pin. If you want both it's going to be a little more complicated because of how they're tied together...

 

The way that will 100% work both ways would be to add another logic IC to logically combine the color signals (maybe solder it on top of the 74LS32). Either a 7408, 7400 or 7486 should work. I wish I had a 7800 board but I'll get it figured out.

 

(It might have to be a 7486 since the Maria doc says the COL pin floats in 2600 mode... hummmm).

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