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New video upgrade coming soon!


Bryan

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I did a quick check on my 800XL, and I think I should be fine with the Plug-In board (I only did a quick check, and the shielding has the folded section which goes over the modulator - see attached).

I'll do another check ASAP to confirm the socket (didn't get a chance this evening to remove the shielding to check).

 

Many thanks for putting all the updated details in place. Looking forward to ordering and getting it done :D

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Looks fantastic, Bryan. Very much looking forward to these!

 

One quick question, and if this was discussed earlier in the giant thread I apologize: will there be close-up installation pics and/or an illustrated installation guide posted somewhere for each of the different models/options? For instance, I plan to put one in my daily-driver 800XL which has a socketed 4050, and another in a 4-switch Woody 2600, without the chip. Your "preview" pics linked in the installation post are not very large, for instance, and don't have pins listed for the various solder points.

 

Don't worry, all that stuff will be posted soon. Also, please post pics of your installations here to help everyone else out.

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I want to talk a little bit about installation options.

 

Directing UAV's output to the 5-pin monitor jack

 

1. Install UAV either by soldering all the input wires to a Basic board and securing it somewhere, or pulling out the 4050 and putting the UAV in its place, or by soldering a socket onto the 4050 and plugging the UAV in on top. The presence or absence of the 4050 doesn't matter because we're not going to be using the built-in video.

 

2. When internal signals are routed to a port, there is usually some kind of filter to reduce the likelihood of RF leakage. This component can be lifted to break the path back to the original video circuits.

 

Example: The 800

 

Here's some pictures of the 800. If we lift R189, L104, and L105, we can then inject UAV's signals on the right side of these components. Also, C174-176 will have a softening effect, so lift one leg of each. (at least lift C174 for sharper Luma).

 

The on-board video will continue to feed the RF modulator as long as the 4050 is still in the socket. We can take our signals off the chip itself or from the vias to the upper right. Unfortunately, I don't know which ones to use at the moment so if you figure it out, please post it.

 

Color is picked off at R196. I'll post some more info on isolating the monitor port on other machines.

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No changes to my order that I can determine from the updated installation post.

 

Bryan,

 

In the setting images (post #281) above you don't mention the 800 or 130xe.

 

The 800 must use the Basic board, so there's no jumpers. The 800XL/XE picture is used for the 130XE.

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Example: The 1200XL

 

In the XL series, for some reason we'll probably never know, Atari dropped Chroma support from the monitor jack. This means we only need to lift Video and Luma, and run a wire to the jack for Chroma.

 

Lift the back pin of L1 and L3, and connect Video and Luma to the pads on the board (Luma is L1). Also lift one side of C103 and C104.

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Example: 800XL

 

There are several versions of the 800XL motherboard, but I believe the video circuits are pretty similar.

 

Power to the video circuits tends to be affected by RAM noise. Your choice of Ground location can make a difference in the quality of the picture. The ground location shown has wide copper back to the ground plane, so it should work pretty well. The absolute best location is the ground pin of the monitor jack, or on the ground plane nearby.

 

Again, lift the two ferrite beads (L7, L9) in the back, and put your Video and Luminance there. Run a wire for Chroma.

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Hi Bryan - if I didn't make it clear before I would still like two, one bare board for a 4-Switch 2600 and one complete kit for a socketed XL machine (it will either be my usual 800XL or my "beast" 1200XL if I can get my U1MB to be stable there). Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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From our previous conversations it looks like in order to try to keep the shield on 130XE the best option is to order a basic board kit (that includes all the parts of a full board), so that I can first try and if it doesn't work out I can build the full board from the included parts. With your approval of the plan, I'd like to switch my previous full board order to basic board kit, thank you.

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This is a program I wrote mainly for adjusting the reclocking delay pot on the board. In the 2nd picture (testprg2.jpg), you can see the effect of too much delay- to the point where pixels are not being latched (especially LUM2 in the upper right). The best setting is to back off about ~10° from the point where pixels start dropping out of the picture. Since the Atari doesn't draw all these types of pixels with exactly the same timing and width, you'll notice some dropping out before others.

 

The lines on the left edge of the screen represent:

1. 2 lines of even monochrome pixels.

2. 2 lines of odd monochrome pixels.

 

The 2nd section below it represents the same display formed with the colors and screen data inverted:

3. 2 lines formed by a gap of background color (even pixels)

4. 2 lines formed by a gap of background color (odd pixels)

 

The different artifact shades represent Lumas of $02, $04, $08, $0E to test the timing of each Luma bit.

 

Below that are bars of GTIA 9 and 11.

 

I'll also upload A8 and 5200 cart images of this program.

uav.xex

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Bryan, maybe once we get all the info together a separate post or repository would be beneficial to aggregate install and testing info. A little easier than running through this huge thread.

Yeah, I figured I'd get all the info in here then work on compiling it all into something useful. I've got several major things going on this month and I just get things typed up as I can.

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