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Bryan

New video upgrade coming soon!

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@olix: thanks for taking the trouble!

Similar hints by other hardware wizards tackling the other installations would be highly welcome!

 

I feel a lot like chinnyhill10, I am confident I can solder enough but don't always understand why I am doing what I am doing.

 

 

Yes that step by step guide for the 7800 looks ideal. Can anyone do it for the other machines, e.g. the 65 XE?

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Same here, I'm pretty much waiting for the 130XE step by step instructions before I even take the board parts out of the wrappers.

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Here's the quick install instructions for the 65/130XE.

 

Solder the socket on top of the 4050. Notice that pin 1 is on the left. The important pins are 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 11, 14.

 

Lift the front-most lead (bottom leg in the picture) of the 3 circled ferrite beads. You can do this by clipping the lead at the board, or by applying heat to the pad and gently pulling the lead out. Once the lead is out of the board, solder a wire to it. These 3 wires will go to the indicated terminals in the green block (Terminal 1 is closest to the adjustment pot).

 

Solder a wire to pin 21 of GTIA. This will go to terminal 6.

 

Solder a Ground wire to the top lead of R52 (left-most resistor behind the video DIN).

 

Make sure the jumpers are configured for the 130XE (this is the default when shipped. Ignore the spare 6th jumper at the bottom) :

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/?p=3431922

 

Plug in the board with the logo toward the front. Gently push the electrolytic cap (C50) to the side if need be. Connect the terminal wires for GND, Composite, Luma, Chroma, Color-In.

 

Leave the pot in the default (middle) position.

 

Power it up and you should have video.

post-3606-0-19816000-1457926607_thumb.jpg

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Here's the quick install instructions for the 65/130XE.

 

Solder the socket on top of the 4050. Notice that pin 1 is on the left. The important pins are 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 11, 14.

 

 

... if i don't want to use the internal original Viedo-Part anymore, is it possible to desolder the 4050 and solder the socket directly on the board?

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... if i don't want to use the internal original Viedo-Part anymore, is it possible to desolder the 4050 and solder the socket directly on the board?

Yes.

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I'll get a better XE guide up soon!

Would love a 600 XL PAL guide. I'm unsure exactly where to cut the traces, and how to go about that. Would love visuals too. So far I've been waiting with the install, until other users post their experience with 600 XL.

 

Cheers.

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Would love a 600 XL PAL guide. I'm unsure exactly where to cut the traces, and how to go about that. Would love visuals too. So far I've been waiting with the install, until other users post their experience with 600 XL.

 

Cheers.

Okay, start with this post:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/?p=3461801

 

Make sure you cut the fat trace between pins 2-5 under the DIN port.

 

Cut the top trace shown in the picture I've attached. If you have good access to the back of the DIN port, you can attach the wires there. If not, the dots show places you can drill a small hole to pass the wires through.

 

There's also a closer place to pick off GTIA pin 21 at the top of the resistor shown.

 

Put the board in the socket (logo facing front) and attach Composite, Luma, Chroma, and Color IN to the terminals.

 

BTW, if you remove the 4050, you lose the modulator function.

post-3606-0-56617500-1457965855_thumb.jpg

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Good News:

 

I have installed the basic kit in my 7800 PAL (Rev. C - with the little daughterboard).

7800 SVideo: Perfect image without interference (on CRC an LCD TV)

7800 Composite: Very good image without interference (on CRC an LCD TV)

2600 SVideo: Perfect image without interference (on CRC an LCD TV)

2600 Composite: Very good image without interference (on CRC an LCD TV)

 

Of course 7800 AND 2600 Games are in color!

Thanks!

 

RevEng pointed out something I missed about the 7800 schematic so I'm going to look at it again too. I want to leave as much of the 7800 intact as possible. I'll eventually get a 7800 to test on, but for now I'm stuck simulating things.

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Hey guys - what size screwdriver do I need for the screws on the terminal block? Went to install today and the smallest flat blade I have (3/32") is too big by far.

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Thanks!

 

RevEng pointed out something I missed about the 7800 schematic so I'm going to look at it again too....

 

i don't understand? I am very enthusiastic about the UAV. The SVideo Image on the 7800 is absolutly perfect and the composite signal is almost perfect. You did really a great job. There is nothing you missed about the 7800 schematic. Tomorrow i will install the uav in my 800XL an in my 130XE. Thank you for making this great hardware. Olix

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i don't understand? I am very enthusiastic about the UAV. The SVideo Image on the 7800 is absolutly perfect and the composite signal is almost perfect. You did really a great job. There is nothing you missed about the 7800 schematic. Tomorrow i will install the uav in my 800XL an in my 130XE. Thank you for making this great hardware. Olix

 

Thanks! I'm glad you got it working well. I just wanted to see if the on-board (modulated) video can be left alone with UAV.

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Hey guys - what size screwdriver do I need for the screws on the terminal block? Went to install today and the smallest flat blade I have (3/32") is too big by far.

 

 

Never mind, found a set of jeweler's screwdrivers I thought I had but couldn't find earlier. That did it. But clearly, something is ... not quite right. :)

 

post-30400-0-80859500-1457988413_thumb.jpg

 

This is composite in an 800XL so ... which connections should I check first? Remember, I assembled this board from parts, so I'm thinking I may have a bad solder joint at one or more of the jumper block pins.

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Here's the quick install instructions for the 65/130XE.

 

 

Thanks. That makes it clearer. I was all ready to desolder the original chip, not to piggy back the new board on top!

 

Thanks.

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Never mind, found a set of jeweler's screwdrivers I thought I had but couldn't find earlier. That did it. But clearly, something is ... not quite right. :)

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5763.jpg

 

This is composite in an 800XL so ... which connections should I check first? Remember, I assembled this board from parts, so I'm thinking I may have a bad solder joint at one or more of the jumper block pins.

 

Looks like LUM3 isn't hooked up. The standard blue screen is a lum of 0x0A against background of 0x04. If you're missing the top bit, you get a lum of 0x02 for the text.

 

On the 800XL, LUM3 is pin 3 of the CD4050. The jumper that makes the LUM3 to Pin 3 connection is the 2nd one that goes across (looking at the jumper pictures, the 2nd jumper down).

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Looks like LUM3 isn't hooked up. The standard blue screen is a lum of 0x0A against background of 0x04. If you're missing the top bit, you get a lum of 0x02 for the text.

 

On the 800XL, LUM3 is pin 3 of the CD4050. The jumper that makes the LUM3 to Pin 3 connection is the 2nd one that goes across (looking at the jumper pictures, the 2nd jumper down).

 

 

Thank you, sir! I'll give the board a good look in the next day or two and hopefully get things up and running properly.

 

If it's any consolation, the pixels are delightfully sharp ... :D

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Thank you, sir! I'll give the board a good look in the next day or two and hopefully get things up and running properly.

 

If it's any consolation, the pixels are delightfully sharp ... :D

 

You're welcome. This might help you with continuity testing:

UAV r.C Configuration Header:

P14	SY

L3	P3

P5	L0

SY	P7

P11	L2

L1	P7

P9	L3

P9	L2

L0	P5

InvC    InvC

4050 pinout for 800XL/ALL XE
L0 = P7
L1 = P11
L2 = P5
L3 = P3
SY = P14

P=pin, L=Lum, SY=sync.

Make sure the P pins in the header connect to the socket pins.

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Thanks. That makes it clearer. I was all ready to desolder the original chip, not to piggy back the new board on top!

 

Thanks.

It may fit better being in a lower socket, but it should work either way. Leaving the 4050 in preserves the modulator function, but removing the shielding makes the modulator pretty worthless.

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Hi, did i understand this right:

 

If i use the plugin-version of the uav, but don't like to use the 5V and GND from the 4050, so i have to cut the little bridge in the middle of the pads:

 

post-40758-0-73182300-1458037593_thumb.jpg

 

But where should i solder the 5V and GND wire : To the half of the pad outside or the half inside?

 

Olix

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Hi, did i understand this right:

 

If i use the plugin-version of the uav, but don't like to use the 5V and GND from the 4050, so i have to cut the little bridge in the middle of the pads:

 

attachicon.gifUVA-800XL.jpg

 

But where should i solder the 5V and GND wire : To the half of the pad outside or the half inside?

 

Olix

The right -> side.

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Okay, start with this post:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/?p=3461801

 

Make sure you cut the fat trace between pins 2-5 under the DIN port.

 

Cut the top trace shown in the picture I've attached. If you have good access to the back of the DIN port, you can attach the wires there. If not, the dots show places you can drill a small hole to pass the wires through.

 

There's also a closer place to pick off GTIA pin 21 at the top of the resistor shown.

 

Put the board in the socket (logo facing front) and attach Composite, Luma, Chroma, and Color IN to the terminals.

 

BTW, if you remove the 4050, you lose the modulator function.

So these are the two cuts (marked as red lines) that I need to make?

http://imgur.com/a/Cc6HZ

I've never cut lines before, but I suppose a dremel can do the job. How deep do I cut?

 

BTW. I removed the RF-modulator.

Additional detail pictures (taken today) of the Atari 600 XL PAL board:

http://imgur.com/a/EavrE

 

Regards,

dakidski

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So these are the two cuts (marked as red lines) that I need to make?

Yes. A Dremel works well, just be careful it doesn't 'walk' while you're using it. Also, a blade works but can take longer.

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Thank you!

 

Lines cut. (Checked with multimeter.)

 

UAV plugged in. - No problem with height. No need to bend resistors. I used the supplied chip socket to elevate the UAV.

 

Jumpers set to Atari 600 XL.

 

Now I just need the wires!

 

Pics that may or may not help someone:

http://imgur.com/a/wBfYC

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Just finished my install today on my ntsc 7800. What a great board! Very simple and straight forward install. I removed my rf and used double sided tape to stick the pcb in its place. Picture quality is beautiful. Running it in svideo on a crt monitor. Heres a couple pics:

 

11kutd5.jpg

 

mwr3ar.jpg

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Just finished my install today on my ntsc 7800. What a great board! Very simple and straight forward install. I removed my rf and used double sided tape to stick the pcb in its place. Picture quality is beautiful. Running it in svideo on a crt monitor. Heres a couple pics:...

 

That's a different way to get the audio than I did.

Both TIA and POKEY sound are at the bottom of the 2 resistors (side facing the console's front), left of the tall red coil.

I bridged a .1uf electrolytic cap and wired to the center of the audio, and ran ground to the large area where the RF was.

Here's a halfway installed pic. All signals can be found above that small left-most IC xx74LS32x. Some at the thru holes in front of the resistors, and the rest at the resistors.

post-29575-0-67083400-1458126229_thumb.jpg post-29575-0-88202600-1458125426_thumb.jpg

I still think a resistor needs pulled because composite is fuzzier than it should be.

The PAL install above had a resistor removed. like I already said, no hurry as SVideo is spectacular. Just in the future composite is convenient to have when travelling.

 

S-Video: post-29575-0-33395700-1458125766_thumb.jpg

I

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