Jump to content
Bryan

New video upgrade coming soon!

Recommended Posts

I think I'm done tweaking and I'm really happy with the result. This one has a better delay circuit for more artifact adjustment range than Rev C and somewhat cleaner output on the scope (although you'd probably need to see them on side-by-side monitors to tell the difference).

post-3606-0-82632900-1482370724_thumb.jpg

post-3606-0-41065600-1482370736_thumb.jpg

post-3606-0-63194900-1482370743_thumb.jpg

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'm done tweaking and I'm really happy with the result. This one has a better delay circuit for more artifact adjustment range than Rev C and somewhat cleaner output on the scope (although you'd probably need to see them on side-by-side monitors to tell the difference).

 

Lookin good!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...somewhat cleaner output on the scope (although you'd probably need to see them on side-by-side monitors to tell the difference).

 

Compared to the stock video on any of the 8-Bit series (even the 800) the original UAV is a night and day difference on a scope. It's so clean that it doesn't look like it can be real video and not a simulation. Can't wait to see what the latest rev looks like.

 

- Michael

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got mine today! Trying to dig up all the docs on how to install these - does anyone have a picture or two of a fully installed board in an 800XL? I just want to confirm wire locations and it helps to see an operating install. The pics Bryan posted for the 800XL don't show the wires run from the connector to the jack, for instance.

 

Thanks!

Edited by tuf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got mine today! Trying to dig up all the docs on how to install these - does anyone have a picture or two of a fully installed board in an 800XL? I just want to confirm wire locations and it helps to see an operating install. The pics Bryan posted for the 800XL don't show the wires run from the connector to the jack, for instance.

 

Thanks!

 

I currently have a Rev C (last year's version) hooked up in my daily driver 800XL. I ran wires to the jack by running them from the connector block on the board through a small through-hole at the back of the motherboard and then soldering them to the pads for the jack on the bottom of the board. No pics but there's nothing particularly tricky about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I currently have a Rev C (last year's version) hooked up in my daily driver 800XL. I ran wires to the jack by running them from the connector block on the board through a small through-hole at the back of the motherboard and then soldering them to the pads for the jack on the bottom of the board. No pics but there's nothing particularly tricky about it.

 

I managed to get it installed using the assorted pics in the various threads. Fired it up and it appears to work but the screen is very dark. I will mention I'm not using an svideo capable monitor, just composite. I'm attempting to use my bog-standard composite monitor cable FWIW. I have a socketed UAV.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I managed to get it installed using the assorted pics in the various threads. Fired it up and it appears to work but the screen is very dark. I will mention I'm not using an svideo capable monitor, just composite. I'm attempting to use my bog-standard composite monitor cable FWIW. I have a socketed UAV.

 

Check the C50 (I think it is) capacitor, located below the 4050 chip socket just to the left. It's a vertically-mounted electrolytic. I had one of those go bad on one of my 800XL's resulting in very dark video. It's pretty small - you may need to look at it with a magnifier. If you see bulging or leaks, you'll need to replace it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like I missed the boat. If there's ever another run of these, I'm interested.

Have you looked at this thread? Didn't count the "boards remaining" but there might be some left.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ugh...

Edited by -^Cro§Bow^-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Based on your left-to-right assumption, I think you want this:

 

DIN..........UAV

1..............3 (Luma)

2..............2 (Composite Video)

3..............1 and 5 (Ground)

4..............4 (Chroma)

5..............Nothing (Audio)

 

You'll also need to run a wire from pin 21 of the POKEY chip to UAV 6 (color in), otherwise you'll only get black and white. I learned that one the hard way.

 

This is a bit of a puzzle since your left-to-right numbering scheme doesn't match the standard pinout of the 5-pin DIN. But that's what makes this kinda thing fun!

 

Finally got around to finishing this upgrade!!

Work perfectly first time. Output is near perfect!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello

 

I have issues with the board. I have the Plug-In version for 800XL models. I have a PAL B verson of the micro computer.

 

I don't know whether I did it right, so before I describe my problems I want to show you what I did. Can somebody tell me whether this is right?

- I connect the front side of the resistor at color to the color in on the UAV

colorin.jpg

- Then I interrupted the diodes at L9 and L7. I soldered a wire at the point the diodes were and screwed them into Composite and Luma of the UAV

bird.jpg

 

- As can be seen I connected ground to the chassis of the RF generator. I saw others removing it. Is that mandatory?

- I connected Chroma output of the UAV to what I think is pin 5

jack.jpg

 

- I saw others mentioning the + 5VDC line at the capacitor right next to the cartridge slot (C18). I did nothing with it, as it wasn't stated what to do with it.

 

 

Did I make something incomplete or wrong? Can anybody please comment on what I did?

 

 

@ Bryan: If you read this: For quick testing, may I solder a s-video socket directly to wires going to the screw terminals on the UAV board? (Luma, Chroma, Gnd) Or does the 800XL PCB some signal adjustment and leveling necessary to be done before connection to a TV?

Edited by Boojakascha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello

 

I have issues with the board. I have the Plug-In version for 800XL models. I have a PAL B verson of the micro computer.

 

I don't know whether I did it right, so before I describe my problems I want to show you what I did. Can somebody tell me whether this is right?

 

That looks right. What is happening?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The problems are not very reproducible. When inserting Bug Hunter I had the white font on black ground correctly but everything color was not sharp and rain bow like. The same in asteroids.

 

asterioids.jpg

 

The non game inserted green ready screen was washed, with a wide horizontal white bar crawling down slowly. the image got brighter over time. Then I inserted Bug Hunter again and there was no picture. I thought I fried my s-video input with too much signal level, as I also tried the mentioned direct connection with the hosiden jack.

 

Other machines ran s-video fine though (dvd player and sms). I re-tried, Bug Hunter had still no picture, and the ready screen turned red. Asteroids is red now too.

start%20screen.jpg

 

@ Bryan: May I connect the s-video jack directly to the UAV board? Do I have to do something with C18?

Edited by Boojakascha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A few quick things:

1. The ground wire to the modulator is fine. It isn't usually necessary, though.

2. Don't worry about any additional wires or C18.

3. Yes, output jacks can be connected directly to the green terminal.

 

Now, pull on the wires that you've put in the terminal (especially the color-in wire on the far right). Are they all completely captured by the terminal clamps?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just checked and tried, and then removed and re-did all screw connections. They are all nice and firm.

 

However I found something new: the color that will taint the whole screen is random: sometime it's red, sometime it's green, I just power on and off the system and the color swaps eventually.

 

EDIT:

 

I a week from now I will have a ESR meter. Do you suggest checking any particular capacitor?

Edited by Boojakascha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...