Panther Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Because UAV picks off the signals at the source (the lines coming from GTIA), you should have to undo other video mods unless they're really invasive. "Shouldn't have to undo" is what I'm sure he meant to write. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 "Shouldn't have to undo" is what I'm sure he meant to write. Step 1. Get up Step 2. Have coffee Step 3. Post to AtariAge Fixed! I got my steps mixed up. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Concerning an audio mod for a 400: I found this from http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/image/4451-img-2806jpg/. Many thanks to oracle_jedi for the idea! You can simply tap an audio line from the left side of R160 (the side furthest from the cartridge slot). It worked for me! I wrapped a wire around the left lead of R160, ran it to an RCA plug, plugged it into the audio of my monitor and BOOM! UAV with audio on an Atari 400. Soon, I hope to make this permanent and attach everything to a 5-pin DIN plug and mount that on case. It'll be a lot nicer to use a regular S-video cable than the spaghetti arrangement I have now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 I cut the long cable I used on the 800, desoldered everything, used headers for the 4050 socket and seated everything. Now the picture is great and stable. While I seated everything, I noticed the effect coming back again. When I moved the cables, it was going away. I would suspect, that some of the noise of the surrounding ICs makes the converter go out of sync. Now, everything is fine. So: Two down, one to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACML Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Concerning an audio mod for a 400: I found this from http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/image/4451-img-2806jpg/. Many thanks to oracle_jedi for the idea! You can simply tap an audio line from the left side of R160 (the side furthest from the cartridge slot). It worked for me! I wrapped a wire around the left lead of R160, ran it to an RCA plug, plugged it into the audio of my monitor and BOOM! UAV with audio on an Atari 400. audiotap.png Soon, I hope to make this permanent and attach everything to a 5-pin DIN plug and mount that on case. It'll be a lot nicer to use a regular S-video cable than the spaghetti arrangement I have now. R160 gives you POKEY audio, but if you want cassette audio, you'll need to tap off R170 as well. (See attached) Location 7 is R160 and location 8 is R170. You also might want to put a 0.1 uf tantalum capacitor inline from each pickoff and them merge them to one line going to the monitor jack. The caps act as an audio filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 R160 gives you POKEY audio, but if you want cassette audio, you'll need to tap off R170 as well. (See attached) Location 7 is R160 and location 8 is R170. You also might want to put a 0.1 uf tantalum capacitor inline from each pickoff and them merge them to one line going to the monitor jack. The caps act as an audio filter. Oop! I wasn't going to discover that for a long time and then I'd wonder what happened. Thanks for the tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) Oop! I wasn't going to discover that for a long time and then I'd wonder what happened. Thanks for the tip! It's a really simple mod, I put it together on a piece of proto board. Just as an FYI I am working on a professional PCB that I will either be sending out as a Kit or Complete (Note it will be guaranteed to work but my soldering isn't spectacular). Bryan and I worked on a number of different iterations that are variants of the above mod as we had a real imbalance on volume between the POKEY and Cassette audio and wanted to make them somewhat close. When the boards are ready I'll let everyone know and see who is interested . Edited May 6, 2016 by orpheuswaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 So I am getting into this post on the tail end. I am seeing a lot of photos and a lot of great comments. But what I am not seeing is how it connects from the Atari to the TV. I see lots of pictures of the board inside the Atari and a lot of shots of TV screens. But how does the video get from this new chip to a HDMI cable? Anyone have any photos or a video demistrating this? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) I now tried install the UAV in my 130XE. Now I'm getting the picture in the attached image. Triple checked all connection. They seem OK. How should I troubleshoot? PS: To give all possible error source, the 130XE has a Compy Shop 320K extension. Edited May 6, 2016 by JoSch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 So I am getting into this post on the tail end. I am seeing a lot of photos and a lot of great comments. But what I am not seeing is how it connects from the Atari to the TV. I see lots of pictures of the board inside the Atari and a lot of shots of TV screens. But how does the video get from this new chip to a HDMI cable? Anyone have any photos or a video demistrating this? Thanks. Output is either composite or sVideo. This is not a HDMI upgrade (Obviously you can run a sVideo to a HDMI converter). My installation in the 400 runs out to a 5 pin DIN wired exactly like an 800 and then I use my regular cable to go to a 1084s monitor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 6, 2016 Author Share Posted May 6, 2016 I now tried install the UAV in my 130XE. Now I'm getting the picture in the attached image. Triple checked all connection. They seem OK. How should I troubleshoot? Can you post a picture of the install? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 6, 2016 Author Share Posted May 6, 2016 So I am getting into this post on the tail end. I am seeing a lot of photos and a lot of great comments. But what I am not seeing is how it connects from the Atari to the TV. I see lots of pictures of the board inside the Atari and a lot of shots of TV screens. But how does the video get from this new chip to a HDMI cable? Anyone have any photos or a video demistrating this? Thanks. To get HDMI you'll need a separate HDMI converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Output is either composite or sVideo. This is not a HDMI upgrade (Obviously you can run a sVideo to a HDMI converter). My installation in the 400 runs out to a 5 pin DIN wired exactly like an 800 and then I use my regular cable to go to a 1084s monitor Oh really? So how did you wire the 5 pin DIN? Did you desolder the one you had, soldered wires to them and placed it back in? I've heard HDMI thrown around but I wasn't sure how the video was coming out of the machine itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Can you post a picture of the install?Here you go: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Oh really? So how did you wire the 5 pin DIN? Did you desolder the one you had, soldered wires to them and placed it back in? I've heard HDMI thrown around but I wasn't sure how the video was coming out of the machine itself. The 400 doesn't come with a DIN plug, it only has RF out. I purchased some on ebay and wired it based on the normal pinout of the a8 machines, then I drilled a hole on the 400 case and secured it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 6, 2016 Author Share Posted May 6, 2016 Here you go: First of all, move your ground wire to one of these spots: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I measured that point I used for Ground to be connected to the Ground pin of the monitor port. But I will move the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 6, 2016 Author Share Posted May 6, 2016 I measured that point I used for Ground to be connected to the Ground pin of the monitor port. But I will move the ground. I'm pretty sure that's the trace that carries Composite to the modulator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Crazy. Only if I have the ground wire open, as in not connected, only then I get a picture, not good but a least there is one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 (edited) It's a really simple mod, I put it together on a piece of proto board. Just as an FYI I am working on a professional PCB that I will either be sending out as a Kit or Complete (Note it will be guaranteed to work but my soldering isn't spectacular). Bryan and I worked on a number of different iterations that are variants of the above mod as we had a real imbalance on volume between the POKEY and Cassette audio and wanted to make them somewhat close. When the boards are ready I'll let everyone know and see who is interested . I just tried a straight R160 + R170 connection to audio and I see what you mean; POKEY audio was LOUD, Cassette audio was quiet. Is Bryan's diagram (http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/?p=3488358) the latest or have there been any updates since it was posted? I'm definitely interested in a professional PCB or two. Thanks for the all the great information! Edited May 7, 2016 by Smokeless Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+slx Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 The 400 doesn't come with a DIN plug, it only has RF out. I purchased some on ebay and wired it based on the normal pinout of the a8 machines, then I drilled a hole on the 400 case and secured it there. I plan to replace the RF cable coming out of the 400 with a composite video/audio cable to preserve looks and avoid drilling the case. (That is, once the audio board becomes available ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 I plan to replace the RF cable coming out of the 400 with a composite video/audio cable to preserve looks and avoid drilling the case. (That is, once the audio board becomes available ) That sounds like a good way to do it, I'll have to consider that for one of mine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 I plan to replace the RF cable coming out of the 400 with a composite video/audio cable to preserve looks and avoid drilling the case. (That is, once the audio board becomes available ) I did it like this. Works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 I plan to replace the RF cable coming out of the 400 with a composite video/audio cable to preserve looks and avoid drilling the case. (That is, once the audio board becomes available ) That's exactly what I'm planning to do with the second UAV board I bought from Bryan when I get around to installing it in one my 4-switch 2600's. My drill is currently kaput - don't know if the charger or both my batteries have died at once - so I can't drill the case for jacks right now anyway. I'll just run the cable out the back and call it good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 7800 I got the boards from Albert and I'm able to verify the 7800 connections. If you've got a NTSC Rev A, just follow the picture. Works great in both 2600 and 7800 modes and you don't have to cut or remove anything. RF output will still work too. The Atari 400 sound boards should be here this week and after a little testing, they'll be made available. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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