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Bryan

New video upgrade coming soon!

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Bryan, I earlier requested a full board for my 130XE, but in that "kept updated" post it says that 130XE requires a basic board to keep the shielding intact. Would your recommendation be to order a basic board for 130XE owners?

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Bryan, I earlier requested a full board for my 130XE, but in that "kept updated" post it says that 130XE requires a basic board to keep the shielding intact. Would your recommendation be to order a basic board for 130XE owners?

If you want the shield, order a custom basic board plus the socket header (configured for XE). You'll need to solder a socket on top of the 4050 and solder the video-out wires to the terminal pads. That way it will be low enough. I'm thinking of including a 16-pin socket with all the boards that have the socket header.

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orpheuswaking is going to test UAV in an 800 with a right angle socket. If it fits I'll make a few available for shipping with your order.

 

I'm going to make another 30 units for 130 total so I'll get the list updated today.

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What is the installation procedure for the full board on 130XE if I don't care about keeping the shield? Is 4050 supposed to be de-soldered and socketed?

 

You don't have to remove the 4050. You can solder a socket on top of it as I did in the 5200 pictures on the previous page.

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We don't have to remove 4050 but we can if we want to make it look "cleaner"? Your video upgrade has it's own, new 4050 on the board?

If the 4050 is left in the circuit, then the on-board video will continue to work. If it's removed, then it doesn't. For my systems, I'm going to run UAV's outputs to the DIN jack, so I don't care if the onboard video works or not. UAV doesn't use a 4050 because the circuit is different.

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I learned something about the 2600's video circuit today.

 

Some rev's of the 2600 have saturation boosting circuits and some don't. The saturation boosting circuit causes problems but it can be modified or disabled. If your 2600 has a trace from pin 6 to a 820 ohm resistor, you have the saturation boost. This circuit reduces the level of the colorburst so the TV sets the color gain higher. It also makes the color waveform too distorted for UAV. Lifting pin 6 (if TIA is socketed) or one end of the resistor will eliminate the problem.

 

Saturation boost:

2600 (6-sw) - Yes

2600A rev 1-15 - No

2600A rev 16+ - Yes

2600jr - No

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Yea, that saturation-boost is actually described and recommended in the Atari VCS Field Service Manual to respond to customer complaints about poor color. I did the mod myself on a Rev 14 2600A ("4-Switch Woody"). It makes a big difference - made my Woody look as brilliant as my Light Sixer. Easy enough to undo it if I use that machine for the UAV.

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Yea, that saturation-boost is actually described and recommended in the Atari VCS Field Service Manual to respond to customer complaints about poor color. I did the mod myself on a Rev 14 2600A ("4-Switch Woody"). It makes a big difference - made my Woody look as brilliant as my Light Sixer. Easy enough to undo it if I use that machine for the UAV.

It can be added back in at another point in the circuit and it won't affect UAV.

 

COLOR is open collector and has a 1K pull-up that makes it toggle between logic levels (roughly). BLANK is also open collector and is tied to COLOR through a 820 ohm resistor. When BLANK pulls down (this includes colorburst time), you effectively have a 1K pull up and an 820 ohm pull down and the amplitude of the color waveform drops in half (with a big, obnoxious DC step too). UAV doesn't handle this well and the color goes wonky.

 

After that, the color signal goes through a 47pF cap and we can tie BLANK to this point instead, but another capacitor is needed in line with the 820 ohm resistor (.1uF is fine). Also, the resistor value can be varied to adjust the amount of saturation. This only affects the RF picture, though.

 

Here's an installation in a less mutilated 2600A.

post-3606-0-31778400-1452561697_thumb.jpg

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Bryan,

out of the 7 Plug-Ins ordered (slx/AtariBuff 7), I would want to use my three for

 

Atari 400 PAL

Atari 800 NTSC

Atari 800XL PAL

 

Thanks!

And the remainder are for

7800 PAL

1200XL PAL modified w. Lenores board

400 NTSC

130XE PAL

 

I'll think about more after comparing results to my stock 800 ;-)

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Gesendet von meinem iPhone mit Tapatalk

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OK, Great!

So set me to the list:

 

I need:

2 x Plugin and

1 x Basic

 

Olix

 

I do not know whether it's important, but i need them all for PAL-Hardware.

 

Olix

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Actually, the low shield on the 65/130XE is worse than I thought. You've only got about .57" (14.48mm) under it. I forgot I had removed my CD4050 and put a socket in there.

 

If you want the shield...

-You can use the plug-in board with a zero-profile socket (it'll be tight, but the green terminal can touch the shield),

-You can remove the CD4050, install a standard socket and use a Basic board plus the socket header,

-You can use a Basic board and mount it somewhere else,

-You can cut a hole in the shield.

 

Without the shield...

You can solder a socket onto the CD4050 and use the Plug-in board.

 

.34" = 8.64mm

.23" = 5.84mm

.22" = 5.59mm

.2" = 5.08mm

post-3606-0-25512200-1452627107_thumb.jpg

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I do not know whether it's important, but i need them all for PAL-Hardware.

 

Nope. They're the same. :)

 

If you have any slots left, I'll take one NTSC full board for a 130 XE. The shield is not a problem for me.

You're on the list.

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I'll get the list updated.

 

Here's a full 800XL install. The ferrite beads carrying Video and Luma are lifted and the UAV signals are injected at that point. Chroma is wired to the DIN jack. I've shown how clipping the pins slightly can get the board lower in the socket.

 

It's a tight fit if you've got the lower version of the shield, but I got it to go together. I've also included a couple of my favorite Rastaconverter pics.

 

 

post-3606-0-41655400-1452928013_thumb.jpg

post-3606-0-35076200-1452928026_thumb.jpg

post-3606-0-49806900-1452928037_thumb.jpg

post-3606-0-46317500-1452928047_thumb.jpg

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If you want to use the shield in either the 800XL or 65/130XE, I think the Basic board is the safest way to go.

 

Not sure about the 600XL yet...

post-3606-0-16229000-1453012224_thumb.jpg

post-3606-0-82486200-1453012230_thumb.jpg

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If you want to use the shield in either the 800XL or 65/130XE, I think the Basic board is the safest way to go.

 

Not sure about the 600XL yet...

 

 

Does that mean I'll need to change my order to use a Basic board then? is that going to be an issue for you?

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