+grips03 Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 So grips i was wrong. I found the correct pinout for msx/x68000 and found there are 3 wires that need to be changed around so the master system cart could easily be changed to be used for the msx and the x68000 No worries. I'll look at it once the product starts to ship. I don't think many people will order the SMS / MSX cart. In the mean time I'll be checking out the first run production PCBs (arriving on Friday) to see what needs to be adjusted. This controller will help me save so much space at my house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 I added some pictures of the beta cabling in the first post. The Super Ninja Controller uses db15 cable. To connect to non db15 controller ports (Coleco, Intv, Atari, etc.) it comes with db15 to db9 adapter cable. This beta cable is too long, and has some other things wrong with it that will be fixed in the production run. It does use double layer heavy duty adhesive lined heat shrink, so that part feels really good. If you count the heat shrink on the 9 wires it has 3 layers of heat shrink. The gray db15 to RJ45 connector shows how the MCC cart in the Super Ninja Controller will connect to the various consoles it supports. In the picture it shows a PC Engine connection. Here again the beta cable is too long, is missing the RJ45 boot, etc. This will be cleaned up before shipping. There is also a db9 to RJ45 that is used on the Ninja Controller. Remember that the Ninja Controller has a db9 cable on it natively. Since the db9 is converted to RJ45 it uses the same RJ45 console cables with the MCC cart that the Super Ninja Controller uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+intvsteve Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 This looks awesome, but is a budget buster for me right now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhcocker Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 This is a very cool device. Any idea when the 5200 carts will be ready? Do you know off-hand which 5200 games are analog only? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 This is a very cool device. Any idea when the 5200 carts will be ready? Do you know off-hand which 5200 games are analog only? I know Gorf is analog only. Centipede plays better with analog as your ship moves a little too fast with digital controller. Millipede is the same. I'm sure there is some others too. I would say 2-3 months. edit from 5200 forum post I saw: Analog only Missile Command, Star Wars, Gorf, Kaboom, Superbreakout Where analog is a help, Poleposition, Centipede, Galaxian, Choplifter I'm sure there are others, but I know from testing my current 5200 controller that most games play really well with a digital controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 Uploaded new photos to post 1. You can see how I plan to label the carts with the console name. You can also see another attempt at clean looking db15 to db9 cable. I'm thinking I'll get it right on the 3rd try. Picture is of the second try The production Colecovision and NeoGeo carts check out perfect. I need to look at my 7800 cart to see what is going on. Notice how the Super Ninja Controller plugs directly into NeoGeo AES console with the deep db15 connector. I also tested with NeoGeo Omega and it worked great too. In the picture with the 3 carts, you can see, the db9 cable has been modded to fit Vectrex opening. I really wished they use something other than hard plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 Figured out 7800 cart issue. Going to have 7800 pcb reprinted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) Uploaded new photos to post 1. You can see how I plan to label the carts with the console name. You can also see another attempt at clean looking db15 to db9 cable. I'm thinking I'll get it right on the 3rd try. Picture is of the second try In the picture with the 3 carts, you can see, the db9 cable has been modded to fit Vectrex opening. I really wished they use something other than hard plastic. i never had to cut the bigger part to fit in vectrex only the part that actually goes into the d-sub connector on the vectrex. what do you think about using 1/8th inch wire tubing to cover up the wire? Edited January 10, 2016 by pimpmaul69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 what do you think about using 1/8th inch wire tubing? image.jpeg I tried 1/4 once. 1/8 might work better. I saw some other modders use it too. I was first going to try offset cables. i.e. make the db9 side longer and the db15 shorter. This way I could slide on two longer heatshrink tubes. Two adhesive lined ones feel like the original cable thickness. One nice thing about the 1/8 inch is that it would give it a pattern that might look better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 I tried 1/4 once. 1/8 might work better. I saw some other modders use it too. I was first going to try offset cables. i.e. make the db9 side longer and the db15 shorter. This way I could slide on two longer heatshrink tubes. Two adhesive lined ones feel like the original cable thickness. One nice thing about the 1/8 inch is that it would give it a pattern that might look better. i would offset and use shrink tubing. And then put the tubing over it. Tubing looks good when you have short cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) May i offer another clean solution to the cable. Use the 9 pin cable and a 15 pin d-sub connector and shell. Also a pic of a 9 pin to 9 pin d-sub connector to give you an idea of the look. I also dont recommend cutting up the 9 pin cable for vectrex if people dont plan on using it for a vectrex. Edited January 11, 2016 by pimpmaul69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 May i offer another clean solution to the cable. Use the 9 pin cable and a 15 pin d-sub connector and shell. Also a pic of a 9 pin to 9 pin d-sub connector to give you an idea of the look. I also dont recommend cutting up the 9 pin cable for vectrex if people dont plan on using it for a vectrex. image.jpegimage.jpeg image.jpeg I like this idea. Might be neater. i.e. no heat shrink. Just female db9 cable into db15 male. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+nurmix Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 ultimarc makes joysticks that switch between 4 way and 8 way by pulling up on joystick and twisting the joystick. They are too big for a neo geo stick however. Ah yes, the Mag-Stik Plus. I had one of those on my MAME cab (and have installed them in MAME cabs I've built for others). They work well at first, but the Nylon bushing the actuates the 4/8 way gate wears out quickly, then the stick won't switch well, or all the way. Plus, the throw is very short and stiff. I ended up taking it out of my cab, and installed the Ultimarc Servo-Stik instead. With MAME, and your chosen front end (I use Maximus Arcade), it can be automated with a .INI file to make it switch 4/8 way automatically when you select a given game. It can also be switch manually with a software utility that comes with buttons. It gets power over USB. It can also work with a separate power source. It could be made to work for consoles, but would require a larger case, as was mentioned in previous posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+nurmix Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 By the way... Awesome idea and execution, Grips! Well done, sir! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+nurmix Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I tried 1/4 once. 1/8 might work better. I saw some other modders use it too. ...nice thing about the 1/8 inch is that it would give it a pattern that might look better. That's what I use under the heat shrink on my Intellivision II Flashback controller adapters - to cover the 9 individually heat-shrinked wires - to smooth out the center cable joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) That's what I use under the heat shrink on my Intellivision II Flashback controller adapters - to cover the 9 individually heat-shrinked wires - to smooth out the center cable joint.i was wondering how you had that "accordian kink" in your heatshrink looking at your pics. Clever. Please tell me you shrink wrap all the wires together underneath that. Otherwise the shortest wire takes all of the stress and becomes the weakest link. Edited January 11, 2016 by pimpmaul69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+nurmix Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 (edited) i was wondering how you had that "accordian kink" in your heatshrink looking at your pics. Clever. Please tell me you shrink wrap all the wires together underneath that. Otherwise the shortest wire takes all of the stress and becomes the weakest link.Yep. All 9 wires are individually soldered, trimmed and heat-shrinked, then I put the conduit over them, and a final piece of heat-shrink goes over that. They are really crammed in there tight. Barely any space left. I did initially do an electrical tape wrap over all the wires before the conduit, but by increasing the length of the conduit and the external heat-shrink, I found it wasn't necessary. Sorry.. didn't mean to hijack your thread, Grips! Edited January 12, 2016 by nurmix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Here is the db15 to db9 cable via alternate method proposed by Pimpmaul. Original method I can make nicer, I'm sure of it. This method uses heat shrink tubing, this one has that and some tape on it. Then we see the new method. Big blockly one is Norcomp ($2.58) and the other is AMP ($2.77) Metal db15 part wiggles more in the AMP shell. It won't fall out or anything. AMP shell has a slimmer body. Norcomp holds the db15 metal part very secure. So which of three do you like best? Norcomp, AMP or original provided I can do a better job with heat shrink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 In other news 5 cart pcbs are on there way to my house for Saturday. Once I test all these I'll do what I can to make them a little safer. I'll still recommend you don't plug in the wrong Ninja cart, and turn on the game console and start pressing random buttons. See first post for warning on why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Can you show the empty case on a cable and hooked up to neo geo cable? I need to decide between that one and the picture in the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Can you show the empty case on a cable and hooked up to neo geo cable? I need to decide between that one and the picture in the middle. AMP is the middle pic. Last pic is the Norcomp. We also see the AMP connector in the first pic, but with no wire in it. The shell in first pic, far right I can't use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 AMP is the middle pic. Last pic is the Norcomp. We also see the AMP connector in the first pic, but with no wire in it. The shell in first pic, far right I can't use. since i have several of the empty shell ones coming to me can you tell me why you cant use it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 since i have several of the empty shell ones coming to me can you tell me why you cant use it? That last shell is AGP-15-G-NEW (second pic below) You secure the cable with the metal parts, one on each side of the cable. Then put into shell, but it leaves the back open and allows the cable to move freely (up,down,left,right) in the opening. It won't pull out of the shell, but the others hold the cable secure in a fixed position due to the cable size adjustment spacers. I like the AMP (first pic below) or Norcomp that has the cable size adjustment spacers you put in the top and bottom shell. This holds the cable really well and does not leave an opening in the back where the cable goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) Did they come in black? I got gray ones. I would like to get black ones. I would like black db9 ones as well Edited January 14, 2016 by pimpmaul69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Digikey has black db15 AMP p/n 17E-1725-1 db9 AMP p/n 17E-1724-1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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