spawnerbr Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Yeah. It worked on my ZX Spectrum +2A and my Commodore 64. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrobits Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 I'm away from my Atari until next week, but when I get back I'll check and document the connections in my cable. I bought it from the same company in the UK as you did a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrobits Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) OK, I took my cable apart and checked all the pins between Atari and Scart. The following are the connections. Anything not listed is not connected. Scart Atari 2 --------------> 1 (sound) 6 --------------> 1 (sound) 7 --> 150 Ohm --> 10 (blue) 8 --------------> 8 (composite/rgb switch) 11 --> 150 Ohm --> 6 (green) 15 --> 150 Ohm --> 7 (red) 18 --------------> 13 (ground) 20 --> 510 Ohm --> 12 (V-Sync) 20 --> 510 Ohm --> 9 (H-Sync) and some reference pics: scart wiring even pins 2-20 and here are odd pins 1-21 Edited April 13, 2016 by retrobits 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrobits Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 OK, not sure what's up with pin 8. I read that pin 8 on the Atari is "reserved" and pin 8 on scart signals aspect ratio. It might be a mistake on my cable, likely has no effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galax Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 OK, I took my cable apart and checked all the pins between Atari and Scart. The following are the connections. Anything not listed is not connected. Scart Atari 2 --------------> 1 (sound) The diagram might be clearer with the arrows going in the other direction... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrobits Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 good feedback galax. OK folks, here is the updated diagram Scart Atari 2 <-------------- 1 (audio) 6 <-------------- 1 (audio) 7 <-- 150 Ohm --- 10 (blue) 8 <-------------- 8 (???? mistake in my cable?) 11 <-- 150 Ohm --- 6 (green) 15 <-- 150 Ohm --- 7 (red) 18 <-------------- 13 (ground) 20 <-- 510 Ohm --- 12 (v-sync) 20 <-- 510 Ohm --- 9 (h-sync) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francouai Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 I jumped +5V from the box input to pin 16 on the backside of the SCART connector to force RGB mode. PIN16 is cut and do not go to the SCART connector. Work very fine with my STE and FALCON to my SAMSUNG BX2450 LCD. this box cost nothing on Amazon and it is the BEST solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Hey guys. I am going through a vendor on ebay to make a Scart cable as described on post 10. I'm asking them to do it because I know nothing about wiring. They asked me something weird though. They said that the breakdown had the sound was not connected and asked if they wanted me to connect it anyway. What do you guys think? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrobits Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 I think it was left off of those initial drawings because it doesn't affect the video output and was not important for the design discussion at the time. The cable I use has sound connected and it works great. The wiring connections for my Atari=>Scart cable are fully described in post 31. I recently took it apart and checked all the connections with a multimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 I think it was left off of those initial drawings because it doesn't affect the video output and was not important for the design discussion at the time. The cable I use has sound connected and it works great. The wiring connections for my Atari=>Scart cable are fully described in post 31. I recently took it apart and checked all the connections with a multimeter. Ah ha! Great. I will have the cable made for me that way then. I might have to learn some soldering skills myself on the converter box side, but we'll cross that bridge when I get there. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Wow, I can't believe it. I actually got it to work. Its now displaying on my Asus HD monitor. I will post some further details soon. However I wanted to ask you guys. I have a switch built in to turn the 5V on and off. When you leave it on and you are working on your ST, do you notice the adapter box getting abnormally hot? I flip the switch off and leave it plugged in and it cools off. Has that happened to you guys? Also I am wondering about the resistor ohms in the scart cable. Are those in place to keep any odd volts from jumping through the cable to protect the Atari from being harmed? If not, what purpose does that serve? Anyway, thank you so much for posting this info. It really is the best solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Hey guys. Alright, so as promised I am going to make a long post so that the instructions are clear. That way no one has to go through two pages worth of information and hopefully make it simpler for everyone. But yes the process that rustynutt posted worked, and the input from retrobits perfected it! So heres what I did, I started off by ordering the scart to HDMI box off of amazon here. I then turned to electronika4you on ebay to buy a Atari ST Scart Cable with sound, I messaged the guys there and sent them the scart map out on post 31 here. With this mod a couple of resistors have been added to the wires and the 16th pin has been disconnected, which is important. They only charged me a couple of extra bucks for modding it, and they sent it to me with a print out of the post, just so that they confirmed it was modded as instructed. I then went to a small electronic store and got a switch for 50 cents. So once it all got here, I sat down with my dad who has better soldering skills than I do. We opened it up and connected the switch with some wires. So we attached two wires to the switch and ran them through a hole we found on the board. Then we took a look at the 5V pin and the 16th pin connectors. Applied some solder and to the ends of the wires. Be sure to cut the length of wire that you need, cause there are no wire extenders Once we got that all done we drilled a hole next to the power connector and made it fit perfectly. It was then that I noticed that the amazon picture had the word Civd on it, but the one i received didn't. Hummm, weird. Now since the 5V is connected to the 16th pin on the board, flipping the switch on activates RGB mode! And since the 16th pin is cut in the Atari scart cable, theres no voltage getting back to the Atari! And holy cow man, it works!!! So thanks to all of your guys help to making this work. Now I can take my Atari ST out to my shows and mix them into my VJ visuals Later guys. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DarkLord Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Hi. Congratulations on getting it to work. Quick question - the desktop picture you've posted is in low res. Does it do as well in medium resolution? No "drop out" portions of the text or anything like that? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Yes, it does work with Medium resolution, but not Hi res. I only do gaming on my ST so I really have nothing to test it with. But here is a photo of the desktop with Med res, and it all looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrobits Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Wow, I can't believe it. I actually got it to work. Its now displaying on my Asus HD monitor. I will post some further details soon. However I wanted to ask you guys. I have a switch built in to turn the 5V on and off. When you leave it on and you are working on your ST, do you notice the adapter box getting abnormally hot? I flip the switch off and leave it plugged in and it cools off. Has that happened to you guys? Also I am wondering about the resistor ohms in the scart cable. Are those in place to keep any odd volts from jumping through the cable to protect the Atari from being harmed? If not, what purpose does that serve? Anyway, thank you so much for posting this info. It really is the best solution. congratulations on building this! Regarding pin 16, it should be disconnected from the Atari. I elected to just desolder pin 16 from the circuit board in the adapter box and pull the pin out of the scart connector. from my post #8 I desoldered and removed pin 16 (so I don't have to open my scart cables to snip the wire) and wired a switch to +5V and the pin 16 pad. The only tricky bit was that the circuit board pad for pin 16 has connections both on the bottom and top of the board. So I needed to carefully apply a little solder to the top of the board at pin 16 where the wire to the switch came thru. If done right, the pin 16 pad should have connectivity to the diode ZD1 (left side when looking at the back of the scart connector). The OP described cutting the wire in the scart cable connected to pin 16. Either way should be fine, but the volts should not be allowed to flow back to the Atari. I've not noticed my adapter box getting warm. How long is it on before you notice its warm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Yeah I could have tried to take pin 16 out of the board, but I think its just easier to have your scart cable made where pin 16 is totally disconnected. I don't know how quick it gets hot, but its not long. I am going to open it up this weekend and take a look at it. I'll let you know because I'm interested in what gets hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sowden Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Alright so I sat down with it last night and did some messing around with the resolutions. I was running it at full 1080p and I found that my ASUS monitor wouldn't let me use the 4:3 option. So I played with it and found the 1280x1024@60Hz resolution setting. I played some games for close to an hour and it didn't get to the burning state. It got a little hot but it stayed there and didn't raise in temperature. I guess the 5V does odd things if you have it on with higher resolutions. And my monitor wouldn't give me a 4:3 box with 720p or 1080p resolutions. So my image looks better boxed than stretched and the box stays coolish. This works great for me now Thanks guys, later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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