Alternative Power Switch Fix

[+Trebor]

Obtained a composite modded ColecoVision from Yurkie a few years ago.

Especially with the controller modifications, it played great.

While the last year has been hit or miss, crossing the 4 year mark of having the system, the dreaded 'Power-Switch' issue has crept up nearly every time I try to play a game on the console. I need to toggle on/off anywhere between a half dozen to dozen or so times until I get a 'clean screen'.

Once I have the clean screen (and having an Ultimate SD cart inserted), I run a memory test without issue. And of course, all games then play perfectly.

Regardless, looking to have a more permanent fix/solution; this post and overall thread is excellent. Problem is my soldering skills are not the greatest (Have a fried 7800 "X" serial guinea pig which can attest to it).

Is there any way to clean/fix the power switch issue without desoldering?

[AtariBrian]

I have a modded Colecovision also . I would prefer to have a black rocker power switch . Then no need to worry about this problem .

[+Trebor]

I have a modded Colecovision also . I would prefer to have a black rocker power switch . Then no need to worry about this problem .

 

I did receive a black rocker switch for the Pause mod that was included with my order.

 

Do wish I had the skill to install one for the Power Switch.

[Yurkie]

Have you tried powering on and pressing reset. The manual said to insert cart. Turn on power. Then press reset.

[Hannacek]

As long as you have basic soldering skills, its not hard to desolder the switch and have it good as new in a few minutes.

[+Trebor]

Have you tried powering on and pressing reset. The manual said to insert cart. Turn on power. Then press reset.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, Yurkie. However, I've tried that copious times along with the power toggle (on/off) of the switch.

 

Just to be clear too, the same results happen with standard/retail Coleco carts and the Ultimate SD. I mentioned only the Ultimate SD cart as it contains the test ROM for the console, and when I run that all results are OK/Good.

[+Trebor]

As long as you have basic soldering skills...

 

*Fried 'X' serial 7800 console speaking*...The dummy tried replacing the power switch on me...Wouldn't wish those "skills" on any console.

[Ikrananka]

I cleaned/overhauled the power switch on my main CV years ago and have had zero problems since. It does require desoldering but it is something you should only have to do after many years of use. Only alternative is a replacement switch but then the challenge is finding one that nicely fits and is cost effective. At one time I spent quite a while searching for a drop-in replacement switch but never found one - all of the ones I found would have meant the need to provide a filler around the edges to hide a gap or were too big and would require surgery of the CVs plastic casing - neither of which I wanted to do. Often times the switches were very expensive.

 

Many years ago AA member doubledown tracked down an illuminated rocker switch that perfectly fitted the existing hole. However, (i) he said it was very expensive >$40 if I remember correctly, and (ii) he would never divulge the make, model or supplier. Unfortunately doubledown is no longer active on AA and his website has long since gone.

 

I recommend biting the bullet and desoldering and cleaning the existing switch. It will last for many years afterwards without issue.

Edited March 20, 2016 by Ikrananka

[+grips03]

I cleaned/overhauled the power switch on my main CV years ago and have had zero problems since. It does require desoldering but it is something you should only have to do after many years of use. Only alternative is a replacement switch but then the challenge is finding one that nicely fits and is cost effective. At one time I spent quite a while searching for a drop-in replacement switch but never found one - all of the ones I found would have meant the need to provide a filler around the edges to hide a gap or were too big and would require surgery of the CVs plastic casing - neither of which I wanted to do. Often times the switches were very expensive.

 

Many years ago AA member doubledown tracked down an illuminated rocker switch that perfectly fitted the existing hole. However, (i) he said it was very expensive >$40 if I remember correctly, and (ii) he would never divulge the make, model or supplier. Unfortunately doubledown is no longer active on AA and his website has long since gone.

 

I recommend biting the bullet and desoldering and cleaning the existing switch. It will last for many years afterwards without issue.

I posted the part number DD used a few years back. Price per switch is around ~20. So 40 for the pair.

[Ikrananka]

I posted the part number DD used a few years back. Price per switch is around ~20. So 40 for the pair.

 

I stand corrected

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

The switches DD used are expensive.. Yes, about $20 for the illuminated power switch and less than that for the reset (not illuminated). Then you gotta buy filler pieces. It's worth it though, it looked cool.

Edited March 21, 2016 by SiLic0ne t0aD85

[electrobrain]

Maybe try a little Deoxit on the power switch? Seems to work wonders more often than not, and at least worth trying before you go all the way to replacing the switch.

 

I sprayed a bit on my Colecovision power switch when it was getting finicky and it cleared right up.

 

Here's a link to Deoxit on Amazon:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460070913&sr=8-1&keywords=deoxit

[Lendorien]

I did the rocker switch mod on my first CV (which ended up with vram issues) and I know I didn't spend 20 bucks on it (no way in heck I would ever pay that much). It wasn't an illuminated one but it fit well enough. I did have to mod the case though, mostly by trimming the plastic guides inside the case.

 

I probably got it at radio shack, but I'm sure you could find something on digikey. The size needed is fairly common so I'd be surprised if you had to pay more than 5 dollars for it.

Edited April 10, 2016 by Lendorien

[+Trebor]

Maybe try a little Deoxit on the power switch? Seems to work wonders more often than not, and at least worth trying before you go all the way to replacing the switch.

 

I sprayed a bit on my Colecovision power switch when it was getting finicky and it cleared right up.

 

Here's a link to Deoxit on Amazon:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460070913&sr=8-1&keywords=deoxit

 

Thanks...tried the DeOxit - it is also mentioned in the document linked earlier - even utilized it with the extension-focus applicator.

However, it was not enough, unfortunately. Evidently, it needs to be coupled with a more thorough cleaning (taking apart) of the switch and likely also the mentioned Dielectric grease across the contact surfaces.

Another item I discovered is the video mod installed by Yurkie is soldered in a way where I would also have to desolder the video mod partially in order to get to the underside of the PCB board, if I were daring enough to attempt the task.

Shame the power switch has given out like this after only a few years; I'm sure Yurkie addressed the power switch as part of his mod/refurb service a few years ago.

[tonyankyfan1]

I would just remove the old one, clean it up and reassemble w some permatex dielectric grease. Keep the original power switch. Just my 2 cents

Anthony

 

P.S> Or ship it to YURKIE and have him fix it for you. He is truly the Master JEDI --> ObeeWanKenobe of Colecovision's. =)

Edited April 15, 2016 by tonyankyfan1

[frank_c]

I soldered in a toggle switch but it was just loose in the rectangular hole.

[+Trebor]

Just an update to this, and not that he needs my endorsement, but as satisfied as I was with the console when Yurkie first sold me one with Composite, Pause switch, and ball knob-straightened cable controllers, he once again pulls through and rectifying what my actual problem was...A bad power supply.

 

Looking for the 'master mechanic' for your ColecoVision, Yurkie's the one.

 

Over 500 ColecoVision consoles and 1200 controllers is A LOT of experience, and it definitely shows and is appreciated in the fantastic service and support received.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Back on the subject of switches...I recently replaced the original switch in my CV with a fairly correct fit rocker right in the original opening of the console. I think I paid maybe $1.50 each for them? I did buy two as I always like to have a spare of everything on hand when I can. I say nearly fit because the switch housing is a tiny bit narrower than the opening is, but it comes with the rubberized surround you see in the photo to hide that. Also this is a press fit switch designed for much thinner openings. Again, i didn't want to modify the case on my CV so I clipped the plastic springs of the switch about 1/4 each to allow them to come through and spring back out properly for a very tight fit. I'm happy with the results and so far every flip of the switch has been a perfect screen each time.

 

Edited December 13, 2016 by -^Cro§Bow^-

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Wanted to say that if anyone is interested I picked up about 10 more of the switches like you see in my post about a month ago. I would sell them for $5 each shipped. I was wrong about the cost and they ran me $2.50 each. Or at least they did this time. So I figured $5 each shipped is fair. Let me know if you might be interested and I'd be happy to send 1 or 2 your way.

[shabazz18]

Back on the subject of switches...I recently replaced the original switch in my CV with a fairly correct fit rocker right in the original opening of the console. I think I paid maybe $1.50 each for them? I did buy two as I always like to have a spare of everything on hand when I can. I say nearly fit because the switch housing is a tiny bit narrower than the opening is, but it comes with the rubberized surround you see in the photo to hide that. Also this is a press fit switch designed for much thinner openings. Again, i didn't want to modify the case on my CV so I clipped the plastic springs of the switch about 1/4 each to allow them to come through and spring back out properly for a very tight fit. I'm happy with the results and so far every flip of the switch has been a perfect screen each time.

 

CV_Switch_Replace.jpg

Have a link to those switches?

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[+-^CrossBow^-]

No because I purchase them locally.