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I think I've got Atlantis II; how to make sure it's genuine?


marvinnl

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Ok I didn't post my red flags in that marketplace but I will here.

 

I'm sure it is totally legit this came from his uncle in the USA while he lives in the Netherlands and the damage was caused by him and his nephews when they were kids.

 

Just saying. I mean it is possible a 10 year old has 8 year old nephews who are on a trip together visiting an uncle in the USA playing a super rare Atari game. Completely possible.

 

What I think is more possible is he is just fishing for info on how people know it is fake vs real.... I generally keep that information private. It's best not to tell scammers how to get better. I learned this back many years ago when I was buying sealed nes and got fakes and the seller wanted to know how I knew.... yeah like I'm going to tell you!

Well? ;)

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Very good, thanks! I'm about 95% sure that this is real. The only other detail I could possibly want to see is a side view of the chip (through the open side of the RF shield) with a good light shining on it. If the chip looks like black plastic, that's almost a sure sign it's an original ROM; if it looks like a ceramic EPROM, it could be a copy that someone covered up by resoldering the RF shield over top of it, although in this case, it doesn't really look like a resoldered board.

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Very good, thanks! I'm about 95% sure that this is real. The only other detail I could possibly want to see is a side view of the chip (through the open side of the RF shield) with a good light shining on it. If the chip looks like black plastic, that's almost a sure sign it's an original ROM; if it looks like a ceramic EPROM, it could be a copy that someone covered up by resoldering the RF shield over top of it, although in this case, it doesn't really look like a resoldered board.

Grabbing the camera! :)

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Actually, on second thought, that's not much of a concern: if it was an EPROM under that RF shield, it would also need an inverter (usually a 74LS04 chip) to generate the chip enable signal. This board clearly doesn't have one.

Here you go! I've looked up some images of ceramic packages, those are a lot lighter grey and have a rougher texture. This clearly is black smooth plastic, although it is a bit hard to see on the photo because of the harsh flashlight light.

adeRtWj.jpg

Edited by marvinnl
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Hey, after watching the video...

 

I don't understand how the removing and reapplying process works.

 

you can heat/blow-dry and peel *any* cartridge label?

How do you pull it without creasing/stressing it?

How do you reapply it? Is there a particular glue?

 

If anyone can shed some light on this, I would be greatly appreciative. Feel free to PM me, rather than subjecting people to information that they already know.

 

Thanks!

 

david

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Barely. it is soooo annoying not being able to go full screen anymore. Not sure what happened but it sucks.

Full screen works for me:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iktwui_3IPQ

 

Maybe you need the info on this page:

 

support.google.com/youtube/answer/6276924?hl=en

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I meant on AA. I can get full screen on youtube and other sites just not here anymore.

 

That's what I mean. I press play and the little icon is on the bottom right. It goes full screen right here at AtariAge when I click it. If it's not working for you and you use Firefox, the solution in the link might fix it.

 

post-13-0-37133400-1459386871.gif

 

 

post-13-0-37133400-1459386871_thumb.gif

 

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Well... here it is! The moment you've all been waiting for...

I've uploaded the video to my Google Drive, due to limited permissions (it seems) I cannot embed the video in a post, so click here to watch the video.

So... OMG IT'S REAL :D

High-res pictures of the PCB:

zXw8orG.jpg

QvKTUeG.jpg

l746C7R.jpg

 

 

 

And we have a winner! Looks pretty legit! Congrats on your acquisition! :)

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Hey, after watching the video...

 

I don't understand how the removing and reapplying process works.

 

you can heat/blow-dry and peel *any* cartridge label?

How do you pull it without creasing/stressing it?

How do you reapply it? Is there a particular glue?

 

If anyone can shed some light on this, I would be greatly appreciative. Feel free to PM me, rather than subjecting people to information that they already know.

 

Thanks!

 

david

When properly administered, the heat applied to the cart sticker causes the adhesive layer between the cart and the cart sticker to gravitate towards the sticker. It tends to want to stick more to the sticker then to the cart when heated. This allows for a greater chance of success when peeling up the sticker.

 

In addition, there is no need to peel the sticker off completely; rather just enough to access the area where the cart screws are located. Then, time is the enemy. Get in and out of there as quickly as possible. (be prepared ahead of time) If done efficiently, the sticker can be reapplied and when the heat dissipates, as the temperature cools, the glue simply dries; once again acting as an adhesive for the sticker, and is unaffected.

 

If you do take too long, you can either heat it up again and/or simply use an arts & crafts glue stick.

 

Granted, this process does not work with all cart stickers for all carts for all systems. But it has a very high success rate. I have used it over the years mostly just to center cart stickers properly that were not applied perfectly at the factory. It's also the main reason why I have never and never will pay so much as a dime for an inverted Jenny label variation. (because anyone can simply create them)

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Thanks for all the kind words, lads, I really appreciate it. I'm working now on the photos for the eBay ad, chances are I put it on later today. :)

The label went back on just fine BTW, no damage done. It really was as easy as heating up the cart and carefully pressing the label against the shell.

Edited by marvinnl
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