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retrobits

Floppy Emulator in SF354 Drive (Gotek + HxC2001 firmware)

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I just wanted to share some pics of my latest project. Its a Gotek Floppy Drive emulator device, flashed with the newest version of the HxC2001 firmware, and mounted in a 354 drive. The 354 was an old Chinon-mech unit (non-standard floppy interface) so I just used some 1-pin male-to-female Dupont jumper wires to make the connection. (poobah posted the Chinon pin mapping here http://atariage.com/forums/topic/211924-old-atari-sf354-hxc-floppy-emulator/?do=findComment&comment=2747223). If you try this, take care to measure the voltage on the power connector as I had it wired in backwards at first and fried a USB stick (the Gotek was unharmed LOL).

 

I de-soldered the USB header from the Gotek and relocated it using parts from an old PC card interface. Also de-soldered and relocated the toggle switches. The instructions for flashing the Gotek and wiring the LCD and additional toggle switch are all on the HxC2001 site http://torlus.com/floppy/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1683.

 

I used a cheap Dremel knock-off (WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft - $20 on Amazon) to do the cutting and I think it came out fairly well for my first attempt. Next steps are to make a small gray bezel to cover the cuts and screws, thus making the front look a little cleaner. Also I need to wire the disk activity LED to the 354 case LED. Anyhow, fun project and not too expensive.

 

Gotek device (ebay) - $17
HxC2001 Firmware License - $10
FT232RL FTDI USB to TTL Adapter (for flashing) (ebay) - $4
IC2 16x2 LCD Display (ebay) - $4
gotek1.jpg

 

gotek2.jpg

 

gotek3.jpg

 

gotek4.jpg

 

gotek5.jpg

 

gotek6.jpg

Edited by retrobits
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Looks pretty good! Maybe a bit of sand paper on those front edges, and face the screws in the same directions and it will really look sharp.

As for get the wiring done right. Very well done. Way over my limited skills. I'm impressed!!

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Like Retrobit above, I am proud owner 😆 of one of those early models of the single-sided SF 354 with the heavy belt-driven Chinon drive mechanism. This features this unique 14 pin connector. Here's what I did:

  • For the power, I soldered a new connector from an old PC power supply in place. The 12 V (yellow line) is strictly not needed for the Gotek. I left the 12 V in place, regardless, but if in doubt leave it out. If you reverse polarity on the connector, you'll probably damage the Gotek. Or the USB stick...
  • For the data lines I pried the crimp terminals out of the 14 pin plug (use small screwdriver to push on the retaining metal clips of each crimp terminal and pull out). The lines were then individually fitted with heat shink tubing. This gives very good mechnical/electrical fit on the Gotek header, as well as adequate insulation between the lines. With two cable ties it will look even reasonably tidy and not like a bowl of spaghetti.

Attached is a wiring diagram, and a photo of the connection.

 440400928_PinoutSF354ChinonShugart.thumb.jpg.a8f58e0cff8a2192c4d2e110288eef1e.jpg

1921750120_2020-02-1310_32_32v2.thumb.jpg.ea54423ff73a2440b1f3661b2f3090b2.jpg

 

Interestingly, poobah 's wiring (2013-05-04,  http://atariage.com/forums/topic/211924-old-atari-sf354-hxc-floppy-emulator/?do=findComment&comment=2747223) did not work for me. Note the difference in the Drive Select A and the Motor On signal. Maybe, there are two subversions of the adapter PCB? I don't know, but you may want to consider both options. Also note that the line drive chip, 7407, on the adapter board is most likely not needed for a Gotek.  It is there to shape the Step and Write Data signals from the Atari. As a consequence you cannot probe continuity on those signals with an ohmmeter. If it gives problems, you might consider shortening pins 13/12 as well as 11/10 (or taking this IC out and bridging inputs to each respective output).

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