Smokeless Joe Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 I searched for this but didn't find much, other than it's been done. I'm going to take the plunge and get a VBXE for my 1200xl. Has anyone created install instructions for this? I can make sense out of most of the connections on Lotharek's installation guide (not sure where to get CASINH), but he also mentions removing parts, and provides examples, only not for the 1200xl. Any recommended resources for this? Many thanks, - Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) I made this picture for another forum member a while back, if it's any use: Any questions, shoot. PS: Perform the EXTSEL mod described in the fourth paragraph of this page before you do anything else: http://www.retrobits.net/atari/pbi.shtml Edited May 10, 2016 by flashjazzcat 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankie Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Here is mine - Is has an Svideo board still in it from before VBXE - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 I made this picture for another forum member a while back, if it's any use: 1200XL_VBXE.jpg Any questions, shoot. PS: Perform the EXTSEL mod described in the fourth paragraph of this page before you do anything else: http://www.retrobits.net/atari/pbi.shtml Just to be clear, CASINH comes from U17 pin 4, not the piggybacked 74HC08 chip (which had pin 4 cut off), correct? Got my VBXE in the mail a couple days ago, so this weekend is the big install! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Just to be clear, CASINH comes from U17 pin 4, not the piggybacked 74HC08 chip (which had pin 4 cut off), correct? Had to check Bob's instructions there, but it says: "Solder a wire from pin 1 of the HC08 to pin 16 of U14". Now, CASINH is on pin 16 of U14, so what I've done in the picture is just tap off CASINH from the point it joins the HC04 (i.e. pin 1). Got my VBXE in the mail a couple days ago, so this weekend is the big install! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 I didn't notice until just now, as I was hip deep in the install, that it looks like everyone else added right angle headers to their VBXEs. Mine sure doesn't have any! I'll probably keep going just to make sure it works, but I'll have to unsolder everything off the VBXE itself once the headers I just ordered arrive. But while I'm here, a couple questions: 1. It looks like Q4 (3.5 MHz) and C5 (GND) are missing from FJC's install. Is it bad that my board still has both? Any changes I need to make since I have Q4 and C5? 2. Neither of the pictures above look like they're connecting J3 pin 3 to anything. Lotharek's instructions say this should go to a ground. Is it not needed? Is J6 pin 4 enough? I'm getting a little loopy. I almost asked what J4 and J5 are connecting to. Duh. Thanks, -Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rybags Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 The headers in the version 2.0 that Candle sold back ~ 6 years ago, the headers were oriented flat or upwards depending on which machine it was for. I requested flat ones for mine for the 800XL, ie the pins come upward then go through the right angle to lie flat/parallel with the board itself. Multiple Gnd connections are common in electronics, if it says it wants another one then it's a good idea to provide it. The other stuff - best left for JFC, Candle, Lotharek or someone who's done this install type to answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankie Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 I actually didn't have enough right angle headers so the single row ones were just bend 90 degrees with needle nose pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 I didn't notice until just now, as I was hip deep in the install, that it looks like everyone else added right angle headers to their VBXEs. Mine sure doesn't have any! I'll probably keep going just to make sure it works, but I'll have to unsolder everything off the VBXE itself once the headers I just ordered arrive. I have no idea why the pin headers are left off the board but the modern VBXEs never have them. I have a stockpile of the things for this exact reason: I fit them to every board which passes through my hands. Soldering wires direct to the pads might seem OK until the board has to be removed for some reason. The one advantage of omitting them at the manufacturing stage is that it leaves it up to the user whether the pins are straight, right-angle, etc - to best suit the host machine. 1. It looks like Q4 (3.5 MHz) and C5 (GND) are missing from FJC's install. Is it bad that my board still has both? Any changes I need to make since I have Q4 and C5? Yes: remove Q4 and C5 (and the master crystal, Y1). VBXE provides the system clock and has capacitors on-board, so you just need to feed the wires to the specified points. 2. Neither of the pictures above look like they're connecting J3 pin 3 to anything. Lotharek's instructions say this should go to a ground. Is it not needed? Is J6 pin 4 enough? There are a few ground pins but it runs fine without J3 pin 3 connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Kline Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 I'm sure glad I haven't picked which 1200XL to install my VBXE, U1MB, and Stereo Pokey into yet. This thread has been tremendously interesting as I finish up repairs on these last 4 1200XLs; still waiting for the final 2 to arrive (and then it's time to take a break from the 1200XL spending spree, lol). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 I got a pantsload of pin headers that claim they'll arrive tomorrow, but tomorrow is a holiday here in les États-Unis, so I dunno if they'll show. I tend to overbuy when I'm stuck without something I need. Anyone need a 1μH axial inductor? I've got a hundred or so. This thread has been tremendously interesting Seriously! Shoutout to everyone who's helping and a special thanks to FJC for the details. Yes: remove Q4 and C5 (and the master crystal, Y1). VBXE provides the system clock and has capacitors on-board, so you just need to feed the wires to the specified points. Wow, glad I asked. I'll eighty-six C5, Q4 and Y1. Anything else need to be removed? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oracle_jedi Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 How did you guys get the Stereo board to fit? I tried to mount one in a 1200XL today that has an Ultimate 1MB in it, and found that the keyboard would not go back on. I removed one of the two risers on the Stereo board, and then found it did not have enough clearance next to the ROM socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Put the U1MB OS ROM adapter in the rear OS ROM socket and the stereo board clears it without any extra sockets underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oracle_jedi Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Put the U1MB OS ROM adapter in the rear OS ROM socket and the stereo board clears it without any extra sockets underneath. Cool thanks! I will have to replace the 24pin seat in the 2nd ROM socket with a 28-pin one. Do I need to move any of the jumpers or are they good to go? Right now I have J11/J12/J13 jumpered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 (edited) Of the bank of five jumpers I only have W11 closed and U1MB works in either the front or back 28 pin socket. Try it as is and you can always remove W12/13 later if it doesn't work. There are a few different jumper configurations which seem to work but not all work with U1MB completely removed. Edited May 30, 2016 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 The first install attempt didn't result in much. An LED on the VBXE would turn on, but I'd get nothing on the screen. I made some adjustments and now the little LED no longer turns on. I'm hoping that's not as bad a sign as I think it is. There's a lot of variables to this install, so troubleshooting is gonna take some time. I think I'll try installing it in an 800XL, since my 1200XL EXTSEL mod is the part I have the least confidence in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankie Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 I used several risers to get my stereo board in my 1200xl / U1MB / VBXE. At first the keyboard seemed like it was hitting it but it turned out to be the ribbon cable from the keyboard. I just needed to refold it a little neater and everything fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 The stereo board in my photo is sitting flat in the socket. Clearance under the keyboard certainly is limited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Some good news to report; I had moderate success installing the VBXE into an 800XL. The text is really pink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Some good news to report; I had moderate success installing the VBXE into an 800XL. Moderate because the text is really pink: Any ideas what's going on there? At least I know the VBXE itself isn't broken. It also seems to behave with the U1MB and the TransKey-II. So now I just need to figure out what went wrong with the 1200XL install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankie Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 There was a setting on my monitor that fixed that. Are you using an upscaler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Yes, I'm using one of these: http://www.ambery.com/rgbcgatovgac.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 I suspect G is missing from RGB here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankie Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) I have the same upconverter. Push the little button on it. That should fix it. Edited June 3, 2016 by Frankie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeless Joe Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Heh, pushing the button (and reading the manual) helped. It was set to YPbPr instead of RGB. The RGB signal looks like crap, though. Text is blurry, colors are faded and vertical lines galore. My monitor (Sony MFM-HT95) might be to blame or maybe my connections are no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.