Gunstar Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) Just had a look and on the loaded 1200XL, only W11 is jumpered. Whether this works without U1MB I don't know, but since U1MB is present, the second ROM slot is completely superfluous anyway. With the correct jumpers (and no U1MB), you can certainly put any 8K ROM you like (or BASIC) in the other slot. You'd use the jumper positions described in the AtariMax 32-in-1 instructions for the 1200XL in that case (the board comes with BASIC on an EPROM for the second socket). Yes, I have the 32-in-1. Right now it's in the lower OS socket with the EPROM BASIC in the upper (by cart-slot) socket. I just installed BASIC at the time because it was there, but I use Turbo or an OSS basic with my MyIDE II cart. So I was going to put Star Raiders or something in the BASIC slot. But, I had to do my own piggy-back stereo upgrade with POKEY's because my MetalGuy66 stereo board won't fit with the 32-in-1 board in the first OS slot, but it would fit if I moved the OS board to were BASIC now is at. And, I could still fit another normal rom in the first socket by with the stereo board. And it sounds to me, if I am understanding you, that since I already have the jumpers moved and everything else done with the 32-in-1 upgrade, that I can just basically swap the board and the BASIC rom, and it would work with the jumpers already in the 32-in-1 upgrade positions? I guess I've always assumed with the two OS sockets on the 1200XL, even with changing to the 24(28?) pin sockets and moving the OS to one socket, that there would still be a low-high rom situation like older versions of TOS. So then the OS would always have to occupy the "low" socket regardless if the "high" socket was used. An assumption due to the way the instructions tell you to do the 32-in-1 upgrade, and don't mention alternatives (except leaving the second socket empty if you don't want BASIC). Actually I've assumed that all XL/XE's worked this way, but just "low"" as OS and "high" as BASIC, or other rom. Bottom line, I was assuming that with the jumpers, you were setting the second socket as the "low" socket. I've also had experience with the low/high or 1/2 positions of rom chips from Jaguar cartridges too, and aren't some 8-bit cartridges done the same way? Edited October 4, 2017 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeocomp Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 On 5/20/2016 at 8:24 AM, Marius said: Sorry for my totally off topic yell: The 600xl absolutely kicks ass!!! I love it. Mine has the Hias 576k sram upgrade, a built in rtc, and dual os (stock and mybios). I fixed video output by removing one single disc capacitor. This is one of my most favorite atari 8bit machines. @Marius which disk capacitor was it? Another question, does wiring S-Video require more than two new resistors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeocomp Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 I have an unmodded PAL, with 16kB RAM. On CRT composite is quite good, but TV signal is noisy. On LCD not even composite is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Risky for me to tell this without checking. But IIRC it is the disk capacitor on the left of the PCB (light brown) next to the left of an IC. It is that pretty large thing right from the 2 grey oscillators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 But PLEASE let somebody confirm this. I can be extremely wrong here. There is another one near that one (a smaller one) that also can be the one to be removed. I have put my 600XL in storage, can not reach it... so I can not check it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juansolo Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Did a memory upgrade, put a UAV, U1MB and stereo POKEY into @marauder666 600XL. Compared to my 800XL it's a whole lot of faff! Taking loads of inspiration from @flashjazzcat video we plugged the U1MB into the basic socket. Though in addition, because we didn't have nice short leads so had to put them somewhere, also the keyboard ribbon and board was being problematic, I de-socketted the pokey and the basic to get things even lower. It's still bloody tight in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeocomp Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 I did UV mod 2.1 (partially). It greatly improved picture. Now even CRT TV input is VERY good. All the noise is gone and sharpness is greatly increased. I replaced L14 with 3.3Ohm resistor, C115 with 220uF, and connected pin 1 through resistor 75 (two 38 in series) and connected pin 5 through resistor 100 ohm. See in picture where I connected them. Do not forget to to apply also point 3 from UV mod - cut the foil on bottom side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamm Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 I can't believe no one has commented something along the lines of, "That's like asking how many angels fit on the head of pin!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MrFish Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, jamm said: I can't believe no one has commented something along the lines of, "That's like asking how many angels fit on the head of pin!" You didn't go over the thread well enough then... Edited March 29, 2020 by MrFish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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