+arcadeshopper Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 we need to design a pcb with a pigtail for the back connector with the right DIN connector for this ps.. then a pcb for the front with the same kind of mounts/switch for the front.. that will work on both styles of console Greg 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 also here's the same at digikey they take paypal https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/GP25A13A-R1B/1866-1825-ND/7703336 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 1 hour ago, arcadeshopper said: we need to design a pcb with a pigtail for the back connector with the right DIN connector for this ps.. then a pcb for the front with the same kind of mounts/switch for the front.. that will work on both styles of console Greg That is an EXCELLENT idea! That way anyone who wants to do it themselves can simply buy it from you and install it without any fuss. No cutting up the TI required! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 1 hour ago, arcadeshopper said: also here's the same at digikey they take paypal https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/GP25A13A-R1B/1866-1825-ND/7703336 THANKS! I'll buy one of these as soon as it looks like the F18A MK II will become available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 Speaking of cutting... when Jediamatt42's USB keyboard gadget is installed, a small 3D printed piece of black plastic could be fitted to the back of the case to fill in the small rectangular area where the vents are. As kit (with instructions) that would make it a 'cleaner looking' (more professional) installation too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, --- Ω --- said: Speaking of cutting... when Jediamatt42's USB keyboard gadget is installed, a small 3D printed piece of black plastic could be fitted to the back of the case to fill in the small rectangular area where the vents are. As kit (with instructions) that would make it a 'cleaner looking' (more professional) installation too. tinkercad.com is very easy to learn/use for making 3d objects..maybe you could design one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 5 minutes ago, arcadeshopper said: tinkercad.com is very easy to learn/use for making 3d objects..maybe you could design one That would be kind of hard as I do not have one of jedimatt42's gadgets so have no clue of the size/measurement specifications. I also do not have a 3D printer to test print anything. So, never having done anything like that, it would be preferable to just buy it and pay for it to be installed with the MK II and power supply modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+helocast Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 3 hours ago, arcadeshopper said: also here's the same at digikey they take paypal https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/GP25A13A-R1B/1866-1825-ND/7703336 I've bought multiples of these in 2017 and since - they work well: Console BOM: https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=2254151 28.5 Watt 5V/12V/-5V Triple Output Industrial Table Top Power Supply CH 1: 5 VDC @ 2.5 Amps CH 2: 12 VDC @ 1.2 Amps CH 3: -5 VDC @ 0.3 Amps https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=15844 Standard DIN Socket Female 5 Pin Panel Mount or https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?-1&storeId=10001&productId=29399 Standard DIN Socket Female 5-Pin Right Angle PC Mount Unshielded https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=38050 6-Foot 3-Conductor SVT Power Cord 18AWG Black NEMA5-15P to C13 Plug PEB BOM: (just depends on availability since I use LM78XX series as needed on a small board attached to each power supply) https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=323847 AC to DC Power Supply Single Output 15 Volt 10 Amp 150 Watt https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=323783 AC to DC Power Supply Triple Output 5 Volt 15 Volt 15 Volt 15 Amp 6 Amp 1 Amp 132.5 Watt ... and a mix of 12V and 110V fans depending on what's available and/or what I have in my parts stock Haven't had any feedback, but there's several black consoles and V2 PEBs back out there somewhere in the wild after I modded them still doing fine. Just never formalized write ups for these or offered up front to do these as a side. There's never a market for more than one or two-off it seems. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 3 minutes ago, helocast said: I've bought multiples of these in 2017 and since - they work well: Console BOM: https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=2254151 28.5 Watt 5V/12V/-5V Triple Output Industrial Table Top Power Supply CH 1: 5 VDC @ 2.5 Amps CH 2: 12 VDC @ 1.2 Amps CH 3: -5 VDC @ 0.3 Amps https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=15844 Standard DIN Socket Female 5 Pin Panel Mount or https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?-1&storeId=10001&productId=29399 Standard DIN Socket Female 5-Pin Right Angle PC Mount Unshielded https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=38050 6-Foot 3-Conductor SVT Power Cord 18AWG Black NEMA5-15P to C13 Plug PEB BOM: (just depends on availability since I use LM78XX series as needed on a small board attached to each power supply) https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=323847 AC to DC Power Supply Single Output 15 Volt 10 Amp 150 Watt https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=323783 AC to DC Power Supply Triple Output 5 Volt 15 Volt 15 Volt 15 Amp 6 Amp 1 Amp 132.5 Watt ... and a mix of 12V and 110V fans depending on what's available and/or what I have in my parts stock Haven't had any feedback, but there's several black consoles and V2 PEBs back out there somewhere in the wild after I modded them still doing fine. Just never formalized write ups for these or offered up front to do these as a side. There's never a market for more than one or two-off it seems. Doug Thanks Doug, what did you do about the power switch? just bypass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+helocast Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 1 minute ago, arcadeshopper said: Thanks Doug, what did you do about the power switch? just bypass? I did a few that way until I found some spring loaded 4PDT OFF ON (ON) slide switches. I'm sure I posted about those somewhere, maybe earlier in this thread? Sorry I haven't done any in about six months because Ebay console reclamation has been too pricey. I'll try and look them up again and see if the source still has them. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 18, 2019 Share Posted July 18, 2019 10 hours ago, arcadeshopper said: we need to design a pcb with a pigtail for the back connector with the right DIN connector for this ps.. then a pcb for the front with the same kind of mounts/switch for the front.. that will work on both styles of console Greg, I definitely commit to one of those here and now, and that is just as a power connector and switch arrangement... but you know me, I have to ask, could something else 'really cool' be added to that board as well to give our computer a little extra something? I mean, why waste space? ☺️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 18, 2019 Share Posted July 18, 2019 ☝️ Oh, I know at least one something Greg... it has to have an LED! ? Also a power tap for a USB connector. You never know when something like that might be needed on a future project... or at the very least to power/charge ones cellphone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted July 18, 2019 Share Posted July 18, 2019 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 18, 2019 Share Posted July 18, 2019 <<Here>> is a POSSIBLE cable that could be used as a USB power port installed on the back left-hand side of the TI console, connected to the PCB in the TI for use with the Mean Well external power supply... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 17 hours ago, --- Ω --- said: <<Here>> is a POSSIBLE cable that could be used as a USB power port installed on the back left-hand side of the TI console, connected to the PCB in the TI for use with the Mean Well external power supply... https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002O1W7FY 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 40 minutes ago, arcadeshopper said: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002O1W7FY Much better price, especially if you don't have to pay for shipping. If a future switch/adapter includes support for USB power, I'll have to come up with a template for cutting with my Dremel to make a PERFECT hole, unless someone designs a 3D printed holder that replaces some of the vent slats on the back of the console. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 I'm getting excited about the prospect of this thing coming to fruition. It'll be EASY for anyone to update/upgrade their TI's power supply. 1) Remove a few screws from case and open it up. 2) Remove screws from old power supply, unplug and remove old power supply. 3) Plug in new PCB tighten the screws. 4) Screw case shut and insert slider switch. Total elapsed time will probably be under five minutes. We'll all have cooler running TI's and most likely never have to worry about capacitors going bad again. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 Good news from behind the scenes! Apparently things are in the works for designing and creating the appropriate PCB board to replace the aging internal power supply. The external power supply CHOSEN (as of now) is the Mean Well GP25A13A-R18. Attached below is the datasheet for the new power supply which is available for purchase << HERE >> The only drawback I see is no more keeping the coffee cup warm. ? Mean_Well-GP25A13A-R1B-datasheet.pdf 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 Sadly, I've not heard of any forward movement on this project recently. It's a shame too because I NEED one now and don't want to pay good money for another old one that might fail or be in need of cap replacement. Tick tock, my clocks running out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 (edited) On 7/17/2019 at 10:56 AM, --- Ω --- said: Speaking of cutting... when Jediamatt42's USB keyboard gadget is installed, a small 3D printed piece of black plastic could be fitted to the back of the case to fill in the small rectangular area where the vents are. As kit (with instructions) that would make it a 'cleaner looking' (more professional) installation too. Really quick on this subject ... the general consensus is that replacement of the MB with a RPi Zero or RPi 3b+ is cheating? Merely getting a feel for the community as a whole. Not trying to ruffle feathers ? Edited September 18, 2019 by Mehridian Sanders clarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tursi Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 53 minutes ago, Mehridian Sanders said: Really quick on this subject ... the general consensus is that replacement of the MB with a RPi Zero or RPi 3b+ is cheating? Merely getting a feel for the community as a whole. Not trying to ruffle feathers ? If the PI can run all the ports (joystick, cartridge, cassette and I/O... I'd forgive the video being upgraded) and the keyboard, then it seems like a motherboard replacement to me. Otherwise it's cheating. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 (edited) On 7/17/2019 at 9:43 AM, --- Ω --- said: I bet others are interested in this project as well. So far the only achilles heel I see is the switch mounting in the Black & Silver console. However once a 3D printed retainer is developed for a switch to use with the stock slider, everyone will be in business. I'm sure our resident go-to-guy arcadeshopper will carry them when available. ? Modernizing/Updating our TI's will give us decades (if we live that long) of fun. I own a silver model unit... The PSU and switch are fine, but I do eventually plan on getting an F18A, and will have to disassemble then. Do you want me to reverse-engineer the switch slider? I have an FDM printer to test the printed parts... I understand that the switch assembly is "Fragile" though, so some hand-holding on safe disassembly would be appreciated-- but I have digital calipers and have experience reverse engineering parts. (Also, I don't mean to be obtuse, but wouldn't a pico-ATX supply (with v1 atx header), with the switch wired to ATX header pins 14 (PRW-ON) and 15 (GND) be sufficient? ATX power v1.0 (20 pin version, not v2.0, which has missing -5v!!) has all the necessary voltages... (+5v (pin 4), -5V (pin18), +12v (pin10), and GND (pins 3,5,7,13,15,&17)) Like this guy? https://www.amazon.com/RGEEK-Output-Switch-Supply-Computer/dp/B07H5FP5KY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=20pin+picoatx&qid=1568835723&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell OR-- If you need more juice... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TWE3O8/ref=psdc_1161760_t4_B07H5FP5KY (both are 20 pin, v1.0 ATX supplies, which should provide -5v on pin 18) You could run your TI on a 12v DC wall wart then. Those are everywhere. Just make sure it is regulated, and has sufficient amperage. Edited September 18, 2019 by wierd_w 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 The 'power supply' is supposed to be a replacement PCB that gets the 'power' from a << Mean Well GP25 A >> external power supply. The PCB that replaces the old power supply would have a switch in the appropriate position so you would be able to use the existing slider assembly. In theory you would be able to have a connector on the PCB for a USB power port that could supply power to a sidecar RPi for a TIPI unit or some other future gadget. This will lower the temperature inside the console and as a "NEW" and easily sourceable item replace the aging units as they fail. It will be a nearly plug-n-play replacement that anyone could do on their own. I suppose it could also have a power tap for the Jedimatt42 keyboard enhancement as well. If this power upgrade/replacement is ready when the new F18A MK2 is available, people could update/upgrade their units all at the same time and be good for another 20 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 To turn on an ATX supply, you just have to short the specified pins. (A slide switch would do fine, you would just have to have it mounted to a suitable PCB that attaches to the same 4 screw mounts as the original internal "cup warmer". Really, from what I see here, you just need is a small protoboard with an ATX motherboard header, with a 4 wire breakout, and a slide switch in the appropriate location. Then you just need a 12v DC barrel connector in the back in place of the 4 lead AC input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 54 minutes ago, wierd_w said: I own a silver model unit... The PSU and switch are fine, but I do eventually plan on getting an F18A, and will have to disassemble then. Do you want me to reverse-engineer the switch slider? I have an FDM printer to test the printed parts... I understand that the switch assembly is "Fragile" though, so some hand-holding on safe disassembly would be appreciated-- but I have digital calipers and have experience reverse engineering parts. (Also, I don't mean to be obtuse, but wouldn't a pico-ATX supply (with v1 atx header), with the switch wired to ATX header pins 14 (PRW-ON) and 15 (GND) be sufficient? ATX power v1.0 (20 pin version, not v2.0, which has missing -5v!!) has all the necessary voltages... (+5v (pin 4), -5V (pin18), +12v (pin10), and GND (pins 3,5,7,13,15,&17)) Like this guy? https://www.amazon.com/RGEEK-Output-Switch-Supply-Computer/dp/B07H5FP5KY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=20pin+picoatx&qid=1568835723&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell OR-- If you need more juice... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TWE3O8/ref=psdc_1161760_t4_B07H5FP5KY (both are 20 pin, v1.0 ATX supplies, which should provide -5v on pin 18) You could run your TI on a 12v DC wall wart then. Those are everywhere. Just make sure it is regulated, and has sufficient amperage. Just as a side note, if you do go this route, you will either have to make sure that the onboard switch can handle the power inputs, or replace the switch. I know that when using 2 PSU side by side (eg: External Video Card, Thunderbolt External Enclosure, etc.) you have to shunt Pin 15 and 16 (on the main power connector) to the switch to allow it to power on and off the supply. I could be completely wrong here. Please let me know if I am misguided. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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