redhawk668 Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 I will share the designs of this little PCB on my github. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 For anyone who is interested: https://github.com/redhawk668/Atari-CO60472-Delay-Line-Replacement The link to my github. 6 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1050 Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 Please keep us appraised of marketing plans for the boards, if when how much. I would like more than a few, less than a dozen, but six would be nice for starters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 (edited) I've made a bit of a rework of the little board and I had some PCB's made. It works perfectly and fits nicely in a 600XL. Should also fit in an 800XL without problems. I've managed to put everything on top of the PCB, so no bending of pins necessary. It does require good soldering skills, because of the SMD stuff, but the IC is easy to solder. When assembled it's basically a plug 'n play solution. I will put this soon on my Tindie store for sale if people are interested. Edited November 23, 2020 by redhawk668 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacka013 Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 Hi Redhawk, what's the internet address for your store? Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 (edited) 15 hours ago, blacka013 said: Hi Redhawk, what's the internet address for your store? Regards This is the address of my store: https://www.tindie.com/stores/redhawk6682020/ Keep an eye on it, will be available soon. The PCB that will go on sale will be ENIG finish and fully SMD. Rev. A design works, but 0.6mm PCB's are a bit pricey, the Rev. B will be fully SMD and will go on sale in my Tindie store soon. Edited November 27, 2020 by redhawk668 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 (edited) Ok, Rev. B of the Delay Line. Now fully SMD. Can be made with standard PCB thickness of 1.6mm, so cheaper to manufacture and could be made with a pick and place machine. The IC is in TSSOP-14 package, just fits between a DIP footprint rotated 90 degrees. Board is routed. Now, I need to order some of them for testing. When succesful I can put them on sale at my Tindie store. Edited November 28, 2020 by redhawk668 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 So cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeocomp Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Did those passive components not fit inside IC footprint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Well, the passive components are 0603 footprint. That is still solderable by hand, I’ve tried to fit it all within the DIP footprint, but that means I have to switch to smaller footprints for the passives, it also needs space for the routing of the tracks. So, this design is the best compromise IMHO. This can still be soldered by hand, so kits could be possible too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 I think there is a way to keep the DIP footprint, put some of the components on the bottom (second layer) of the PCB. So, IC on top with the resistors and the capacitors on the bottom. I'm using machine header pins, so there is clearance between the socket and the PCB. Then, it all should fit within the DIP footprint. That'll be Rev. C. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeocomp Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Ok, this is the Rev. C. I've managed to fit everything within the DIP-14 footprint. IC + resistors on top and capacitors on the bottom. Will order some of these soon and test them. 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeocomp Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Do not want to be PITA, just noticed the C3 and Atari labels on the sikscreen collide with the vias. Otherwise it is perfect. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickJock Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 3 hours ago, archeocomp said: Do not want to be PITA, just noticed the C3 and Atari labels on the sikscreen collide with the vias. Otherwise it is perfect. And the R1 & R2 labels.... But yeah, looks great! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 (edited) Thanks, I've corrected the issues. Will order some of these for testing. Edited December 6, 2020 by redhawk668 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 11 hours ago, archeocomp said: Do not want to be PITA, just noticed the C3 and Atari labels on the sikscreen collide with the vias. Otherwise it is perfect. That's just a cosmetic issue. The vias were riveted in long before the silkscreen was printed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Yeah, cosmetic issues. But, it looks better when corrected. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonQuichote Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 On 6/3/2020 at 6:11 AM, manterola said: It was already linked few posts earlier. Can someone tell me where the outputs pins 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 of the 74LS14 in this circuit must be connected to the empty delay line socket on the XL-Board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manterola Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 On 11/23/2020 at 3:43 PM, redhawk668 said: I've made a bit of a rework of the little board and I had some PCB's made. It works perfectly and fits nicely in a 600XL. Should also fit in an 800XL without problems. I've managed to put everything on top of the PCB, so no bending of pins necessary. It does require good soldering skills, because of the SMD stuff, but the IC is easy to solder. When assembled it's basically a plug 'n play solution. I will put this soon on my Tindie store for sale if people are interested. Could you explain why this design (with the 74ls chip on top) solves the problem of bending pins? I got lost with that... I still see pins from the 74ls that shouldn't connect with the Atari socket, right? Probably I am misunderstanding.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 4 hours ago, DonQuichote said: Can someone tell me where the outputs pins 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 of the 74LS14 in this circuit must be connected to the empty delay line socket on the XL-Board? The same pins. 4 connects to 4, 6 to 6, etc. 7 and 14 also need to connect to 7 and 14. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonQuichote Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 5 hours ago, ChildOfCv said: The same pins. 4 connects to 4, 6 to 6, etc. 7 and 14 also need to connect to 7 and 14. Thank you very much! Tonight i'll heat up the soldering iron ... Hope I can bring my dead XL back to life with this circuit. He has an broken delay line. I checked it with a working delay line from one of my other XL's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhawk668 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 13 hours ago, manterola said: Could you explain why this design (with the 74ls chip on top) solves the problem of bending pins? I got lost with that... I still see pins from the 74ls that shouldn't connect with the Atari socket, right? Probably I am misunderstanding.... All of the SMD components are soldered on top of the little board, with the 74LS on top of the PC, you can stick it in and solder it to the PCB. My first draft was a little PCB that was piggybacked on top of the IC. That means you have to bend the needed pins upwards with all risks of breaking them. The only drawback of Rev. A is, you need a really thin PCB, like 0.6 mm to have the pins sticking out far enough. My new Rev. C is a 2 layer PCB with a TSSOP-14 IC + resistors on top and the capicators on the bottom. As this uses header pins to insert it in the socket, the PCB can be normal thickness. It also fits within the DIP-14 footprint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manterola Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Okay, it makes sense now. However, the fact that pins from the 74ls chip go to positions in the socket that the original delay line doesn't even use (the original lack some pins), confused me. I guess it doesn't matter because because those sockets pins are not connected to anything in the motherboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 didn't find these anywhere on the site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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