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Joysticks Wanted


gliptitude

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I'm looking for replacement controllers for my 2600 gaming. I have a pair of TG Enjoysticks, which are fantastic but seem to be on the verge of breaking. I would love to get more of the same but I've never seen them anywhere besides the original auction i got them from.

 

Attached photos are some obscure items that appeal to me, in addition to the Enjoysticks.

 

Some items I have for trade might include loose Vectrex stuff, Dreamcast console, Wii console soft modded for emulation, Game Boy games, Sears console, maybe other stuff. Or money.

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Some of those look really cool. I can't speak for everyone but the stock joysticks suck. Here's what I use:

joystick_envy_by_stardust4ever-d5vq08m.j

 

I've rebuilt it to add a couple "upgrades" over the years; currently it's on its third revision. It now has true ambidextrous 4-way / 8-way operation, with a functional pair of 500k paddles and 7800 support, mode selectable via a DPDT switch... :grin:

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Some of those look really cool. I can't speak for everyone but the stock joysticks suck. Here's what I use:

I totally totally agree the stock controllers suck. There are some top rated ones I haven't used like Competition Pro and Tac 2, but I'm finding those hard to come by and I'm skeptical that they measure up to what I've been using. .. Heh, my little stick is on the opposite end of the sprectrum as yours. It's a lot like the Vectrex analog "thumbstick" and even the components look like analog pots, but fitting in the hand like it does makes it more intuitive and useful than the Vectrex one.

 

I thought about posting picks of some button only controllers, except that most of those have the buttons oriented in a diamond formation so you could use them for directional control. I'd want the buttons oriented like an Asteroids arcade panel, for steer and thrust games only. .. A more straight orientation like that could also double as the second controller for Stargate and Indiana Jones.

 

What sort of buttons did you use for your controller?

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I totally totally agree the stock controllers suck. There are some top rated ones I haven't used like Competition Pro and Tac 2, but I'm finding those hard to come by and I'm skeptical that they measure up to what I've been using. .. Heh, my little stick is on the opposite end of the sprectrum as yours. It's a lot like the Vectrex analog "thumbstick" and even the components look like analog pots, but fitting in the hand like it does makes it more intuitive and useful than the Vectrex one.

 

I thought about posting picks of some button only controllers, except that most of those have the buttons oriented in a diamond formation so you could use them for directional control. I'd want the buttons oriented like an Asteroids arcade panel, for steer and thrust games only. .. A more straight orientation like that could also double as the second controller for Stargate and Indiana Jones.

 

What sort of buttons did you use for your controller?

For buttons, I buy the Happ plungers from groovygamegear. One thing is the Happ pushbuttons normally come with e-Switch micros, which are somewhat noisy and have 75 gram actuation force. Groovy Game Gear is the only site I know of that sells the Happ pushbuttons with Zippy switches. The Zippy switches are much quieter and have only a 20 gram actuation force. As a result, I can get much better rapid fire rate with my fingers using the Zippies.

 

Example:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=184

 

I've also used the "competition" buttons which are exactly like the Happ buttons, only with convex buttons instead of concave. These also come with Zippy switches if you buy them from Groovy Game Gear. These are the same depth. You can even mix and match the plungers between them if you want.

 

Example:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=373

 

My Atari joystick originally used an Ultimarc Mag-Stik Plus, which is currently one of the only 4-way/8-way switchable options for switching mode operation from the panel side. I do not recommend them as they have a very short throw and clunky feel to them. The part used to switch the mechanism degrades with time making the joystick harder to switch modes. I eventually got rid of it:

http://www.ultimarc.com/store/product.php?xProd=14

 

My Atari 2600 "universal" Joystick now uses an Omni2 4/8 way selectable joystick. I also have one in my Raspberry Pi arcade cab. Switchable joysticks are a must for MAME cabs, unless you plan to install a dedicated 4-way...

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=383

8way4way.gif

 

The caveat of this joystick is mode of operation can only be switched from underneath the panel. For the Porta Pi arcade, flipping up the panel is easy. For my sealed joystick enclosure, it required a creative mod. Read on...

 

Modifying it for use in a sealed wooden control panel required extensive work on the assembly by hand-tapping an additional threaded hole into the acrylic actuator, 90 degrees to the first hole This allowed the use of a pulley-and-string system that I am very proud of which I showed off in the video. The knob comes on a self tapping screw that inserts into the plate. You need to remove this screw (save the extra long plastic washer; you'll need this part again), and go to a hardware store (small stores like Ace or Tru Value or mom 'n' pop type places, not a big contractor store like Lowes or Home Depot) and find a thread tap with hand crank to match the screw. I forgot the thread and pitch value offhand but it's standard. They should have holes to match. Get two 1" screws, four washers, and two nuts to fit the screws. You will also need a 1/8" drill bit. Remove the acrylic plate by unscrewing the four nuts. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the plate. Using the thread tap, carefully cut the hole in the acrylic on the original hole so that the threads go all the way through the plate. It is imperative that you use only hand tools when cutting the acrylic as it is very brittle and machine tools can cause it to crack or break. Next, put the 1/8 drill bit in the hand crank and start working on the second hole. Wood or metal bits will work fine. It will take a long time to cut through the acrylic by hand so have patience. You'll feel a slight scraping noise as you work. This is good. If you feel it bind up, don't force it. Rotate counter-clockwise slightly, then keep going clockwise. Once you have a clean hole 90 degrees from the original hole, use the thread tap with the hand crank to thread the hole. Use a Dremel cutting tool or sharp knife to cut 1/4" off the long white washer you saved from the original handle. Stack it onto the 1" screw between two washers and secure it with the nut. Do the same for the other screw. Tighten both the nuts, then add a drop of super glue to the bottom of the nuts to keep them from moving. Now thread both screws into the acrylic plate until they are flush with the bottom. Rotate about a half turn counter clockwise and secure them with a drop of super glue. Make sure the plate is not upside down before gluing, and only use the glue on the side the screws come out. Allow the glue to thoroughly set before replacing the actuator plate back on the bottom of the joystick assembly. You may want to add silicone oil or silicone spray lubricant to the bottom of the joystick assembly so that it rotates with as little friction as possible. Finally, you need some very light gauge rope or cord, that does not fray easily (not yarn or sewing thread). Cut two lengths, about a foot or so. Drill two 1/8" holes in the wood panels of the joystick enclosure facing the joystick assembly, and thread the rope through. Tie off the rope to the rods underneath the joystick, using the plastic spacer between the washers. Tie off the other ends to a keyring or ecorative hoop, or simply make loops for easy pulling. Make sure to use secure knots that will not slip or unravel. Now you can alternately pull the two cords to switch between 4-way and 8-way joystick operation! :D

 

For a cheaper option or if you think you can live with a simple 8-way for all games, the 8-way Happ Competition are good but not great. Most USA arcade fighters used these joysticks which are cheap, rugged, and practically indestructible. Sometimes the Happs tend to suffer from throwback, where slamming the joystick in one direction and immediately releasing can cause it to momentarily actuate the reverse direction on the rebound:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=287

 

I used them in my dedicated 7800 controller and my SNES controller. American style 8-way joysticks typically have round actuators, bat handles, and a longer rod for installation in thick wooden panels. Japanese style 8-way joysticks typically have square actuators, ball handles, and shorter rod for installation in thin metal panels. Square actuator is okay in my opinion, but depending on the throw, it may be too easy to hit diagonals. By the same token, round American style joysticks may be hard to feel where the corners are. Which is best is up to personal preference. A Japanese style joystick like Sanwa paired with an octagonal gate makes good "training wheels" for learning the proper positioning based on feel alone. Advanced players warn against riding the gate however and learn to make twitchy but precise movements.

 

Hope this helps...

 

Finally, I'd like to add one final point: I've tossed the idea of making my own starpath controller using five buttons, but never got around to it. It would make a perfect control panel for Space Rocks or Star Castle.

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I definitely want one of those Enjoysticks. I collect sticks and that is one I don't seem to have. And it has the Apple II tie in being from a company that made a lot of Apple II controllers. Those look like a set of Apple II paddles that TG made. I guess they liked the elongated hex design.

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