TK-II-STEREO Board (Incorporates Dual Pokey, U-Switch, PS/2 Dual Keyboard)

[Stephen J. Carden]

 

Steve doesn't know it, but I think I beat him to the punch, and was likely the first person to install an Atari 8-bit in a PC case (although mine wasn't a tower style). I believe this happened in late 1989 when I got the first Transkey-I boards back from the PCB house, trading some these for a BB and hard drive from Bob Puff. I'm curious if anyone else out there did something similar but at an even earlier date ? Maybe we should start a new topic on re-cased Atari's

 

- Michael

 

Hi Mike!

I have built three Atari Towers for myself and one for a friend know as CrazyOne. The first Atari Tower I built was in a Midi Case and I used an Atari 130xe with in late 1989 or Early 1990:

Quad OS, (Atari OS, MUX OS, CSS US Plus, CSS Fix XL OS)

Black Box with Floppy Board

Battery Backed 576k Ramdisk

1.44 Floppy Disk

1.2 Floppy Disk

DataQue Transkey Ver 1.0. I replaced the 6116 with a Battery Backed Dallas chip the same size

 

You really can not build an Atari Tower without one of the PS2 Keyboard interfaces.

The Second Atari Tower was just like the first except it has a Battery Backed Dallas 32kby8 Chip for the OS that I can load any Atari OS I wish from a Binary File.

 

The Third Atari Tower I built is up on my web site will all kinds of pictures if you want to build one.

 

I have one or Two of every Keyboard interface that has been built for the Atari.

3 Original Transkey's Ver 1.0 two working and one that is still a pcb! I never assembled it.

2 AKI's They work ok but have some bugs on the US Keyboard matrix.

12 KRH Rev 1.0 These are really AKI's remade and the firmware fixed.

7 KRH Rev 2 These are a compact KRHs designed to be soldered to the underside of the Motherboard so that it can be used with Stereo Pokey Boards.

2 Transkey-II XEGS

2 TK-II the revised transkey setup for the 130xe and 800xl

1 Super Pokey Upgrade. (Stereo Pokey, TK-II, U-Switch)

 

For building upgrades to test and review the Atari Tower is by far the best way to go.

 

Take Care!

Steve

[+mytek]

You really can not build an Atari Tower without one of the PS2 Keyboard interfaces.

 

Yep you got that right And since the Transkey-I was the first, I guess I had an unfair advantage, since being the creator gave me first dibs on getting an actual board

 

 

I have built three Atari Towers for myself and one for a friend know as CrazyOne. The first Atari Tower I built was in a Midi Case and I used an Atari 130xe with in late 1989 or Early 1990:

Quad OS, (Atari OS, MUX OS, CSS US Plus, CSS Fix XL OS)

Black Box with Floppy Board

Battery Backed 576k Ramdisk

1.44 Floppy Disk

1.2 Floppy Disk

DataQue Transkey Ver 1.0. I replaced the 6116 with a Battery Backed Dallas chip the same size

Sounds like a great system, especially for the time period it was built (much better than my version).

 

 

The first Atari Tower I built was in a Midi Case and I used an Atari 130xe with in late 1989 or Early 1990

Had to be 1990 or perhaps even later, since no boards were released to the general public before then. Not unless you snuck into my house and grabbed one when I wasn't looking . But still sounds like both you and I had the same idea at around the same time, and then put it into action.

 

 

DataQue Transkey Ver 1.0.

And if that system was built in 1990, then it would have most likely been a pre-DataQue board, since I don't think I had sold the rights to Chuck Steinman until the very end of 1990, perhaps even as late as '91. My company name at the time was Micro Solutions, and I was based in Petaluma CA. Even the DataQue produced boards still had that company name silk-screened on them.

 

Not trying to be nit-picky, just trying to set the facts straight I know I for one as I get older tend to more easily mix up the when and where things happened. But at least with this particular topic I have documentation that shows when some of these things actually did happen. Speaking of which I think I still have the entire email thread between Chuck and I that covers his original offer to buy me out, and all the nitty gritty details. And I believe I also have my original dated hand drawn designs. Anyone interested in seeing this? If so I can scan it and post it as a PDF.

 

I like stuff like this. It gets my rusty old brain working

 

- Michael

Edited September 17, 2016 by mytekcontrols

[+mytek]

XEGS Detailed Installation Connection Points

 

 

 

 

- Michael

Edited September 21, 2016 by mytekcontrols

[+mytek]

What exactly does the u-switch function built into the TK-II-STEREO board do?

 

It enables logic controlled switching (via a single wire) to select either Mono or Stereo mode. For example: on Lotharek's Stereo board (without the U-Switch option) it requires a DPDT mechanical switch with one pole being used to enable/disable addressing of the right channel Pokey chip, and the other pole to perform re-routing of the right audio output in order to have the left channel go to both audio outputs when placed in Mono mode.

 

DPDT Mini-Toggle Switch

 

 

 

Adding the U-Switch (which he also sells), changes this into a logic level binary ON/OFF selection of Mono or Stereo, thus allowing something like the U1MB board to control it.

 

 

U-Switch connected in place of DPDT switch on Lotharek Atari 8 bit stereo upgrade FINAL

 

 

 

When I designed the TK-II-STEREO board, I built-in this logic level Mono/Stereo switching functionality. So no need for any external add-ons to make it U1MB compatible. It just works right out of the box (assuming you connect to the U1MB's MO line ).

 

- Michael

Edited September 21, 2016 by mytekcontrols

[+mytek]

I'm starting to add more installation photos and I find I am in need of a high resolution birds-eye overhead view of a 130XE motherboard (not perspective, but looking straight down). And this should be a clean un-modified unit (no upgrades), and evenly lit (no flash). Anyone have a link as to where I can get this photo?

 

Thank you,

 

- Michael

[Brentarian]

I can take some pics later tonight if you can't find any. Do you need any other models? I have stock models of all the ones released in the US.

[+mytek]

I can take some pics later tonight if you can't find any. Do you need any other models? I have stock models of all the ones released in the US.

 

I think I've got some great hi-rez photos already of the 65XE and 600XL, but I'm missing a clean shot without mods of a 1200XL. So if you got that one it would also be appreciatted. I'll be reducing whatever I get down to 1500 pixels across, which works very well in the image viewer on these forums, not requiring much if any scrolling on most widescreen monitors. So the better the quality and the lighting the better will be the end result. That last installation photo for an XEGS is a good representation of what I am after.

 

Thanks

 

- Michael

[+mytek]

Opps it looks like I'll need a good quality image of the 600XL motherboard as well. The one I had doesn't have very good lighting.

 

- Michael

[+mytek]

1200XL Detailed Installation Connection Points

 

 

 

 

- Michael

Edited September 23, 2016 by mytekcontrols

[+mytek]

600XL Detailed Installation Connection Points

 

 

 

 

- Michael

 

 

Two more to go...

 

Anyone know where I can pick up the A4 and BELL signals for a 65XE and 130XE other than directly on the chips?

Edited September 23, 2016 by mytekcontrols

[+mytek]

65XE Detailed Installation Connection Points

 

 

 

 

 

- Michael

[+mytek]

130XE Detailed Installation Connection Points

 

 

 

 

 

- Michael

Edited October 4, 2016 by mytekcontrols

[+mytek]

On that 65XE installation photo. Please ignore the yellow circle just above the 6520 IC (the one without an identifying label). It is an aberration left behind when I was cutting and pasting (totally missed it ).

 

- Michael

[+mytek]

TK-II-STEREO Project Release

 

OK time has come for this project to be released for DIY assembly and PCB purchase through OSH Park (these are un-assembled boards).

 

I've created a new page on my website with the parts list and PCB order buttons. If you want an assembled version please ask Dropcheck nicely and see if she'll do another board run.


Official TK-II-STEREO Info Page: ataribits.weebly.com/tk-ii-stereo.html


Latest Rev 1.6 Main Board Schematic (please don't use the previous ones posted earlier in this topic --- the board design has evolved)



Current PDF's of all Schematics

TK-II-STEREO_MAIN.pdf
TK-II-STEREO_ INTFC-S.pdf
TK-II-STEREO_INTFC-Dual.pdf

 

Additional info...

Using a JOY2PIC to Program the PIC on the TK-II-STEREO board

OK in preparation for those that have JOY2PIC boards, here is a simple guide on how to use it to program the TK-II-STEREO board's PIC chip.

1) Connect the TK-II-STEREO board to the JOY2PIC programmer, and then plug it into your A8. Observe proper cable orientation as shown below.




2) Now boot the connected computer with the latest Flashing ATR, and when the programming prompt appears, press START (although this example is shown in an emulator, you of course will be using a 'real' A8 computer). The Flashing ATR is auto booting and will automatically disable the built-in Basic.

 

Example of Flash Programming Software Atari Boot-Up Screen (current firmware version's readme file might look different than this).



3) As the board is being programmed, you will see pulsating white flashes on screen and a pulsating red led on the JOY2PIC. And a short while later, the chip will have been programmed. When it's completed, you'll be informed as to the success or failure to program the chip, and also be given the opportunity to program another chip.

Oh last but not least, when programming the PIC on the stereo board, do so with it out of circuit (not installed) and with the Pokey chips removed. I seriously doubt that it could be programmed with the the original Pokey still plugged into socket U1, and although the 2nd Pokey in socket U2 shouldn't be a problem if you left it in place, it's better safe than sorry to remove both of them to eliminate any confusion as to which one needs to be absent.

Enjoy

 

- Michael

Edited October 16, 2016 by mytekcontrols

[olix]

What kind of LED should i use at J2-8/J2-5 ?

Do i need a low current LED (> 2mA) or can i use a standard LED (Forward current 10 -20 mA) ?

[+mytek]

No need for a low current LED, since the output is quite capable of driving into the higher current standard devices.

 

- Michael

[Brentarian]

Michael,

There is a discussion in another thread about SIO sound (tape audio) not being included on stereo mods. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/261227-1010-tape-silence-on-800xlvbxestereou1mbsio2sd/?p=3680995

 

What would it take to add SIO audio to the mix on your TK-II Stereo board? I thought about adding it to the GTIA audio input pin so it would get mixed into both channels (along with GTIA sound), but not being an EE I'm sure I'd mess something up. I don't use my 410 often, but every once in a while when I'm in a nostalgic mood I like to fire it up.

[+mytek]

Michael,

There is a discussion in another thread about SIO sound (tape audio) not being included on stereo mods. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/261227-1010-tape-silence-on-800xlvbxestereou1mbsio2sd/?p=3680995

 

What would it take to add SIO audio to the mix on your TK-II Stereo board? I thought about adding it to the GTIA audio input pin so it would get mixed into both channels (along with GTIA sound), but not being an EE I'm sure I'd mess something up. I don't use my 410 often, but every once in a while when I'm in a nostalgic mood I like to fire it up.

 

Look at the schematic for the 1088XEL board and you'll see that it has provided additional mixed left & right inputs for SIO Audio. Since this audio source consists of a single channel (mono), it gets mixed into both the left and right channels coming from the dual Pokeys so that it can still be heard over both speakers (same thing was done for the GTIA Bell signal).

 

Although some of the control logic is a bit different when comparing the TK-II-Stereo board with the 1088XEL dual Pokey circuit, the mixing stage is very much the same. So if you added in two resistors and two caps at the input side of the PN2222 transistor amps, you should be able to achieve the same thing.

 

- Michael

Edited January 27, 2017 by mytekcontrols

[OlaHughson]

This may be a confusing question, but im a newb to electronics, so...

Can't the PIC also be programmed otherwise? IE: not with the Atari?

[mimo]

Yes, you need a pic programmer

[+mytek]

One of these will do the trick.

eBay PICkit3

[pilot@pilotpirx.pl]

Hellow, Hellow, i just build one  Can somebody tell me how to properly connect Tk-II-Stereo to Ultimate 1MB? I dont want to blow up eveything.

"Otherwise if hooking this up to a U1MB board you would connect J3-3 (MO) to P4-MO on the U1MB"??? Only one cable?

Thanks.

Peter 

Edited December 21, 2020 by pilot@pilotpirx.pl
Update

[+mytek]

37 minutes ago, pilot@pilotpirx.pl said:

Otherwise if hooking this up to a U1MB board you would connect J3-3 (MO) to P4-MO on the U1MB"??? Only one cable?

Yes a MO to MO (one wire) connection will allow the U1MB to switch between Stereo and Mono via its setup menu.

[pilot@pilotpirx.pl]

Thanks a lot :))) 

[pilot@pilotpirx.pl]

Hey, TK-2 is connected, L and R audio connections are coming from pin 2 and 9. I got a bit of a lag between sound from TV output and TK-2 Output, is it normal?

And another question if i may. With a  PIC16F1847-I/P installed my keyboard respond to reset key only, is it something wrong on my build or its normal? Can i remowe PIC16.... and keep my atari keyboard fully funcional? Thanks again for all advices.