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PROJECT SOURCE:http://www.harmlesslion.com/text/atx_peb.htm

 

I can't seem to edit the original post so here's all the exciting photos so far. Almost ready to put the cards in and fire it up.

 

Getting ready.

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Cool Fan! No pun intended, that is a pretty cool looking fan.

 

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This guys is tough and tight. Rachet set to the rescue.

 

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What a pain..

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Getting there, at least I'll have spare parts for the power supply in my other PEB.

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More still...

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Dayum.

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OK...

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Gonna have to desolder this to insert it from the outside.

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Power connector didn't fit. Had to break off dine plastic and temporarily wedge mount it. Yeah, that's a new home engineering term...wedge mount.

 

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The infamous wedge mount.

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Not lucky, holes don't line up. Time for the hot glue gun.

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Wiring up the external drive power. Decided to use the original internal floppy power cable of the PEB sure to its length.

 

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Decided to leave the original wires in place. Solder point were good. Back plane all wired up.

 

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Upgrade psu, include label.

 

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Go ahead, hate on me. Hot glue, modder's duct tape.

 

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Did a quick power test. Not working. What? Syu a visual inspection of everything and find this...dammit!

 

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I'm going to try and fix this.

 

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Hardest thing I ever attempted soldering.

 

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Assuming that's making the connection, I think I have something to work with now.

 

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Let's do this...

(Video Link) - https://www.facebook.com/SExmortus/videos/10206902808080695/

(video Link)- https://www.facebook.com/SExmortus/videos/10206902883482580/

And now let's test it...

(Video Link) - https://www.facebook.com/SExmortus/videos/10206902914323351/

Let's connect and test the power switch...

(Video Link) - https://www.facebook.com/SExmortus/videos/10206903057046919/

 

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A dab of hot glue to reinforce the solder joint, heading ave cooling and all that jazz.

 

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No Loose Ends!

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Not paying attention - can't close case. Time to open up again.

 

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This should do it..

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Almost done. Just powered it on to double check, everything still good so far.

 

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Stay tuned, next update will be connected to IT with all cards and 2 drives installed.

 

YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME!?!?

 

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I'm not messing around.

 

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Done!

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SUCCESS! I mean TADA!

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Edited by Sinphaltimus

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Just to verify both internal (DSK2) and external (DSK3) drives are working properly. DSK1 will be my GoTek as soon as it arrives.

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​Did I happen to mention how insanely quiet it is. Can't even tell its on until the TI gets turned on and you see the light. I may add a power LED to this just for that reason.

Edited by Sinphaltimus

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Nice work. Something to consider for the future. All I did was replace the fan in my PEB with a nice quiet one and change out the LEDS for blue ones. Figured if the PSU dies then I can consider the ATX route.

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Nice work. Something to consider for the future. All I did was replace the fan in my PEB with a nice quiet one and change out the LEDS for blue ones. Figured if the PSU dies then I can consider the ATX route.

Yes I did this years ago with an AT PS now I have some info to use as I upgrade one of my TI systems to a ATX PS and tower case.

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I'm going to put leds (not sure what color) on all the empty slots as a power light. Next up, I'm going to have to extend one of the floppy power cables, one of them is too short. I also have to find my black floppy and some face plates.

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I may add a power LED to this just for that reason.

 

A temperature gauge looks cooler! ;)

 

s-l500.jpg

 

I have a small blog entry << HERE >> on how I did mine. I've updated the links too.

Feel free to check it out.

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I dunno who any one is everywhere, but Fred, if you're here, I have some questions in regards to this...

 

On Facebook:
Fred Kaal An disadvantage by leaving the 5v regulators intact is that they now have to consume 7volts (12-5) instead of 3volts (8-5). With the same current the expansion cards are drawing this means that the voltage regulators have to dissipate more power (P=U x I) which mean that they will get hotter. Better keep an eye on this when your pe-box is switched on for a long time.

 

Lenny Rivera I'm looking to install a temp monitor. One question I have is the original source article I used for the mod, appears the internal card had no case. Is that normal? Should I pull these out of the cases and maybe install another fan or two?

 

Also, what is the safe operating temperature for these voltage regulators? I may get one temp probe for each card.

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Congrats!

 

Because the heat output is greater, it is imperative that your 5v regulators have proper heat sinks or clamshells to transfer the heat. Myarc cards are especially prone to heat degradation, and usually require regulator replacement at some point.

 

 

I originally modified my system back in the early 90s (or there-abouts). The prevailing method was to tie 12v to 12v and 5v, and -12v to -12v. My systems ran 24x7 for years in this configuration with no major issues so long as the heat didn't build up inside the case. Repairing burned up "jumpered" cards got old quickly, so the earlier "jumper or remove the regulators" option fell by the wayside.

 

The linked article here from ckoba raised some interesting points related to regulators and AT(X) power supplies as he details how he refurbished the PEB power supply. I never got a chance to really dig into it, but those here who are interested in the PEB mods might want to give it a read....

 

https://www.disavowed.jp/index.php?/archives/45-Refurbishing-a-TI-PEB-power-supply.html

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Thanks for sharing that. OK, I ordered myself a few temp gauges. I'll research the part number when I open the peb (when the GoTek arrives).

I'll also research voltage regulators that can maybe replace the once on the card and work better with atx power?

I was chatting with a friend over his past weekend and he recommended looking at the TI LM23 voltage regulator.

If I can't replace the existing regulators with a newer more capable one for the application then I will definitely install heat sinks and micro fans in the regulators. Even if I have to cut the clamshell to do it. I have two of all these things. One set for modding, the other to keep stock. So if I have to mod my cards to protect them I will.

There wasn't anything wrong with the old power supply, I just got spooked at running 2 internal and one external drive off the thing along with 3 cards and LEDS I plan on adding. In my 80 track mod topic here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/256550-just-completed-the-80-track-disk-controller-mod/page-2?hl=+80%20+track%20+mod Scroll down to my post :

Posted Fri Sep 2, 2016 3:58 PM

So many light bulbs today. Here's one! Recalled having an external CD rom case I might be able to use for my half height DSK3!

Now I've got other worries.

 

 

EDIT: I run all my computers on UPS battery backups to help with the protection part so there is that also. But if the PSU goes...

Edited by Sinphaltimus

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Very nice work and documentation :)

 

For me and my soldering "skills", I was a bit anxious, because of ♫ burning down da house ♪ and this things ;)

but I´ll wait a little time now, and if I still see you posting here in some weeks, maybe I´ll givem a try :grin:

 

thx

xXx

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Thanks for sharing that. OK, I ordered myself a few temp gauges. I'll research the part number when I open the peb (when the GoTek arrives).

 

I'll also research voltage regulators that can maybe replace the once on the card and work better with atx power?

 

I was chatting with a friend over his past weekend and he recommended looking at the TI LM23 voltage regulator.

 

If I can't replace the existing regulators with a newer more capable one for the application then I will definitely install heat sinks and micro fans in the regulators. Even if I have to cut the clamshell to do it. I have two of all these things. One set for modding, the other to keep stock. So if I have to mod my cards to protect them I will.

 

I believe the metal and perhaps the metal 'composite' clamshells sufficiently wick enough heat away. As a reminder to everyone they are conductive. If you move a non-TI card into one of the clamshells (or modify for a TI card) watch out for the support tabs inside the shell as they could potentially short the traces and/or power.

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You can replace them, I know there's a guy on FB that likes to discuss the correct ones but updated VRs are going to generate less heat.. I sell nice little heatsyncs that fit on VRs on arcadeshopper.com if you need them for non metal clamshelled cards

 

Greg

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You can replace them, I know there's a guy on FB that likes to discuss the correct ones but updated VRs are going to generate less heat.. I sell nice little heatsyncs that fit on VRs on arcadeshopper.com if you need them for non metal clamshelled cards

 

Greg

Excellent, I'll search around for the replacement vr AND check out AS also. I'm not in a terrible rush as I don't run my real iron much at all and not for long periods of time (yet). But I do want to protect and preserve its functionality for as long as possible. And I'll need it to survive an outdoor stage show in July.

 

Also I have a typo in the vr my friend recommended. I believe it's the lm723.

 

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm723.pdf

Edited by Sinphaltimus

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I didn't replace any of my regulators, and my cards are all working fine. When I first built Thierry's IDE card, that would shut down after a few minutes before I put a heat sink on the regulator, but it didn't take a very large one. Besides the fins and the size of the PCB itself, it got sufficient cooling, even when the PEB was open.

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I didn't replace any of my regulators, and my cards are all working fine. When I first built Thierry's IDE card, that would shut down after a few minutes before I put a heat sink on the regulator, but it didn't take a very large one. Besides the fins and the size of the PCB itself, it got sufficient cooling, even when the PEB was open.

Do you know the optimal operating temp? I ordered some temp probes to stick near or on the voltage regulates but without knowing what safe temps are..... I figured I'd find the VRs when I open the clamshell and then look up whatever was stamped on it. I imagine just asking is far more efficient.

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Do you know the optimal operating temp? I ordered some temp probes to stick near or on the voltage regulates but without knowing what safe temps are..... I figured I'd find the VRs when I open the clamshell and then look up whatever was stamped on it. I imagine just asking is far more efficient.

 

I don't, but if you get the exact part number, that information will be in the datasheet. That said, usually "too hot to touch" is too hot. ;) Datasheet will probably tell you how hot it will get, too, if you can read the tables. ;)

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I don't, but if you get the exact part number, that information will be in the datasheet. That said, usually "too hot to touch" is too hot. ;) Datasheet will probably tell you how hot it will get, too, if you can read the tables. ;)

 

Just a follow up. Your comment "too hot to touch" lead me here.

http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20100020960.pdf

 

Thanks. :)

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So I ran the ti for about an hour under moderate load (playing games) last night and the warmest card was the 32k card.

 

It got as high as 96 degrees F. But would not get any hotter.

 

I was able to get the disk controller up that warm as well doing disk operations on my 5 1/4" drive. The flex interface topped off at about 94 degrees F.

 

I'm going to guess these are optimal operating temperatures?

 

Also, to note, the disk controller and memory cards have 2 voltage regulators each. I put the probes at the regulators furthest from the vent holes (one probe each card).

 

The probes are almost touching the top of the regulators (hot air rises) so I hope it's pretty accurate.

 

If they ever breech 105 degrees F, I'll install fans to pull the hot air out of the vent holes.

 

I have micro fans I think will do the job nicely. And by micro fans I mean they are about 1 inch square for venting hdd caddies. Old school stuff I'm ripping out of old school gear.

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I didn't replace any of my regulators, and my cards are all working fine. When I first built Thierry's IDE card, that would shut down after a few minutes before I put a heat sink on the regulator, but it didn't take a very large one. Besides the fins and the size of the PCB itself, it got sufficient cooling, even when the PEB was open.

 

Well, I completed the installation of an ATX power supply in my PEB, and I started experiencing strange issues. First, DSK2 stopped being accessed, only DSK1 and DSK3. Then the power supply wouldn't even start if the pcode card or the HDX modified RS232 card was in the PEB. The IDE card worked fine.

The Geneve wouldn't even start up.

I have the 5V and +12V lines both connected to the PS 12V, and the -12V line to the PS -12V. Ground to ground as well.

It seems no one else has had these issues. What gives?

I switched back to a backup PEB with the original PS and everything was back to normal...

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